No lining is needed, as a general rule, to this bodice. The pleats are run down, like the breast of a shirt, or may be stitched with a machine. The quantity of material required for either of these bodices would be about three yards and a half of thirty-six inches in width. No seams are allowed in the pattern. The other blouse is made with a yoke, and has nine pieces, viz., front, back, two sleeve pieces, collar, cuff, belt, and two yoke pieces, back and front. In cutting out, the back must be cut double, and in making up the yoke should be stitched flatly on the pleated portions with the machine before joining the bodice together. Both the belts should be lined with buckram, and machine-stitched at each edge, to render them firm and useful. These blouses are worn both out of doors and in, and are made and worn at present in blue, crimson, and all shades of red, in black and white, and may be worn with differently-coloured skirts. They are very suitable for young girls, and may well form the first experiment in their own home dressmaking for the inexperienced. The materials used are elastic cloth, serge, diagonal, blue linen, cashmere, and, of course, any dress material which may be in fashion.
All paper patterns supplied by “The Lady Dressmaker” are of medium size, viz., thirty-six inches round the chest, and only one size is prepared for sale. No turnings are allowed in any of them. Each pattern may be had of “The Lady Dressmaker,” care of Mr. H. G. Davis, 73, Ludgate-hill, E.C.; price 1s. each. It is requested that the addresses be clearly given, and that postal notes may be crossed “& Co.” to go through a bank, as so many losses have recently occurred. The patterns already issued are always kept in stock, as “The Lady Dressmaker” only issues patterns likely to be of constant use in home-dressmaking and altering; and she is particularly careful to give all the new patterns of hygienic underclothing, both for children and old and young ladies, so that no reader of the G.O.P. may be ignorant of the best methods of dressing.
The following is a list of the patterns already issued, price 1s. each:—
April, braided loose fronted jacket; May, velvet bodice; June, Swiss belt and full bodice, with plain sleeves; July, mantle; August, Norfolk, or pleated jacket; September, housemaid’s or plain skirt; October, combination garment (underlinen) with long sleeves; November, double-breasted jacket; December, Zouave jacket and bodice; January, princess underdress (underlinen, underbodice, and underskirt combined); February, polonaise, with waterfall back; March, new spring bodice; April, divided skirt, and Bernhardt mantle with sling sleeves; May, Early English bodice and yoke bodice for summer dress; June, dressing jacket, and princess frock, with Normandy bonnet for a child of four years old; July, Princess of Wales’ jacket, bodice and waistcoat, for tailor-made gown; August, bodice with guimpe; September, mantle with stole ends; October, pyjama, or nightdress combination, with full back; November, new winter bodice; December, patterns of Norfolk blouses, one with a yoke and one with pleats only.
NOTICES OF NEW MUSIC.
Edwin Ashdown.
Vanished Years. Song. By Seymour Smith.—A sympathetic, easy setting of the sad words by Helen M. Waitman. It is published in F and A flat.
The Violet and the Snowdrop. Song. By Ethel Harraden, with words by Gertrude Harraden.—A simple story, simply illustrated. The violin accompaniment, charming as it is, would have been much more so, had it been broken up a little more. There is no rest for it, and this destroys much of its effect. The same part has been transposed an octave for a violoncello. The song is within the compass of most singers—C to D, and not higher.
Two Melodies for violin and piano, by the same composer, Miss Harraden, meet all the requirements of the youthful amateur violinist. They are simple, effective, and melodious. As they are so evidently intended for young people, we are surprised that the violin part is neither fingered nor bowed.