There are also quite a number of Chinese forts in the neighborhood of the "Bogue;" but they did not appear to be manned, although quite a number of old rusty guns were sticking through their embrasures.
Some of these forts are very extensive; that is, their walls enclose a considerable area; but they are badly constructed as places of defence, having a greater part of their interior exposed, which cannot be helped, as their walls mostly run up the sides of steep hills, in which no excavations have been made. They present, however, quite a picturesque appearance, and add greatly to the effect of this otherwise uninteresting part of the river.
Many amusing tales are told of the conduct of their defenders when the British vessels attacked them; and how, when a shell was thrown into them, the Chinamen scattered in every direction, through their ports, and every other available means of exit, exclaiming, "Ei-yah, how can make shoot two time?"
Went up again to Canton, to the Consulate, and learned there that the rebels had not advanced much farther, having stopped to plunder, whilst Seu, the Governor-General, was preparing a large force to oppose them. Found great preparations making for a festival, which my duties did not allow me to see, but which those who witnessed it described as truly magnificent. They called it the Feast of Lanterns. From what I saw have no doubt but that it must have been so at night, when the immense number of chandeliers, candelabra, lanterns, and other arrangements for making an illumination, were lighted.
There were also images as large as life stuck over the gates of different streets, and upon platforms crossing them, with paintings of movable figures strung across them, Sing-Song houses, &c. &c. If you add to this an immense multitude of fantastically-dressed Chinamen, each carrying a lighted lantern richly ornamented, the coup d'œil will be better imagined than I can describe.
The celebration was kept up three nights, and the crowd assembled was immense; so great, indeed, that those who were enabled to gratify their curiosity did so with much wear and tear of clothing, and considerable loss of buttons.
In the meanwhile the valiant Seu had started to chastise the insolent disturbers of the peace of the "Central Flowery Land;" and being determined to expedite his work, took with him a high and learned judge, to condemn the vagabonds, and doubtless executioners to dispose of them.
We remained in Whampoa Reach, awaiting the issue, amidst the delightful odors of decaying paddy fields, and lulled to rest by the harmonious music of myriads of mosquitoes.
During this grand convulsion of the Chinese empire, it was delightful to notice the regularity with which our Chinese compradore, Ayooke, supplied the ship with provisions, and how little he appeared to know or care about the matter. I thought him then a great philosopher, but changed my opinion when I learned that these affairs are of common occurrence in the Chinese empire, especially at the commencement of a new reign, and that the authorities know as well how to manage them, as police officers to put down a row in Ann Street, Boston; and even better, for they have a golden remedy, which long experience has taught them how to apply.
After remaining one month at Whampoa, and a large proportion of the crew getting on the sick-list, we were at length allowed to leave for our old anchorage in the Typa, where we learned that the puissant Sen, his generals, and his judges, had quenched the revolt, and the misguided wretches, whom he had in pity spared, were sorrowfully retracing their steps. But one thing I noticed in his extended and flowery report, that quite a number of his officers were degraded, and heavy fines imposed upon them for alleged misconduct; thus proving in China, as throughout the world, that the larger fish consume the smaller fry, and increase greatly in consequence.