Some butterflies remain in the chrysalis stage for only a few days or weeks; others pass the winter in this state, and this is true of many of the species which are found in the colder parts of North America. In temperate regions some butterflies have as many as three broods: the spring brood, which comes forth from chrysalids which have over-wintered, an early summer brood, and a fall brood. In tropical countries many species retain the form of the chrysalis during the dry season, and emerge upon the wing at the beginning of the rainy season, when vegetation is refreshed and new and tender growths take place in the forests.

THE IMAGO, OR WINGED INSECT

We have already spoken at length of the form and structure of butterflies in the preceding paragraphs, which were devoted to the anatomy of butterflies. It remains for us at this point to call attention to the manner in which the butterfly undergoes transformation from the chrysalis. This change is quite as interesting as that which takes place when the caterpillar is transformed into the pupa; and should any of my readers possess chrysalids I would advise them to watch carefully and observe the curious events which follow one another rapidly when the imago comes forth from the cerements of the chrysalis. The coverings which ensheathe the head, the legs, and the antennæ split, the head protrudes, the fore legs are disentangled and are thrown forth, followed almost at once by the other legs, and the insect proceeds to crawl out from the pupal skin, emerging with the wings as miniature objects, the body trailing after as a long worm-like mass. Having liberated itself from the sheathings of the chrysalis, the insect immediately assumes a stationary position, head upward, body hanging downward. Then by the action of the heart the fluids which fill the body begin to be rapidly sent into circulation, more particularly into the wings, which expand second after second, minute after minute, the fluids in the body being transferred through the circulatory system of the wings until the latter, hanging downward, have assumed their full form. The insect then begins gently to move its wings, to fan them, still remaining in the position which it first took. After a while the wings become perfectly dry, and the long worm-like body has shrunk up and has assumed the form which it will retain through the subsequent life of the insect. Madame Butterfly then begins to change her position. She carefully crawls a few steps to try her powers of locomotion. She suddenly expands her wings, and, presto! if you alarm her, she is off, fluttering about the cage in which you may have her, or darting forth into the room and through the open window, hieing herself forth in quest of food, which awaits her in the honeyed cups of the wild flowers.

EXPLANATION OF PLATE D

Fig. 1. Illustration showing the way to disable a butterfly in the net by gently pinching the body where the wings come together.
Fig. 2. A butterfly net.
Fig. 3. a, hoop made of wire, the shanks tied together; b, ferrule, plugged at c with a piece of cork; the shanks having been put into the top of the ferrule, melted solder is poured into the top, and a good net-ring is made.
Fig. 4. Piece of paper used to cover cyanide at bottom of jar.
Fig. 5. Collecting jar, with lumps of cyanide and sawdust at bottom, covered by paper, as shown in Fig. 4.
Fig. 6. Expanding block, used to expand and mount insects, the wings of which have a tendency to droop or sink down.
Fig. 7. Expanding block, used to mount insects, the wings of which have a tendency to rise up or close.

Plate D

COLLECTING BUTTERFLIES

In collecting butterflies the first thing is to get a net of some kind with which to catch the insects without tearing their delicate wings, and thus robbing them of their beauty (see [Plate D], Figs. 1 and 2). When I was a boy I made my own nets. I took a stick of tough wood about four feet long, which was to serve as the handle. About seven or eight inches from the upper end I wrapped it with copper wire; fishing line will do as well. Then I split the stick down to the band I had made around it. I then with my knife trimmed the two split portions on their inner sides, so that they might be more flexible. I then fashioned out of a piece of good green hickory (the white outer wood must be used) a bow or hoop about twelve inches wide at its widest part, and fitting this between the split ends of the stick put in a wedge at the bottom of the cleft to keep the split ends well apart and tied it neatly and securely in place. Upon the frame made in this way I put a covering of green mosquito netting in the form of a long bag. Many a fine insect I captured with this simple device, which called only for a good jack-knife, a little ingenuity, ordinary skill in whittling, and a supply of stout string. The cheapest and simplest way to make the frame for a net is to take a long piece of brass, aluminium, or galvanized iron wire about an eighth of an inch in diameter and bend it into a circle, leaving two short shanks at the end. Then fit the shanks into the top of the ferrule of a fishing-rod plugged in the middle with a thin piece of cork or with clay, and pour in melted solder. [Plate D], Fig. 3 shows how the “trick” is done.

There are many devices for making frames for folding nets, and there are a number of dealers in the United States who supply such nets at moderate prices. The material for the bag of the net ought to be of light stuff, and I prefer to use tarletan, preferably green in color, or bobbinet. The latter is more durable though somewhat heavier than tarletan. The bag of the net ought to be about three times as long as the diameter of the ring upon which it is placed. It is well, after the net has been sewed upon the ring, to cover it with a band of stout dark-colored muslin, as otherwise the edge of the bag surrounding the ring is apt to become speedily worn and torn.