The Story of the Zulu Campaign

by Waller Ashe; Edmund Verney Wyatt-Edgell

Proceeding north-eastward at starting they soon came to the little river Umbellan, which, flowing past the dense bush of the district, ultimately joins the Umvolosi. At this time of the year it is about twenty feet deep, and murmurs along a channel of from twenty to thirty feet wide, now and then forming deep basins, which were found to be full of fish. Soon after midnight the junction of the Black Umvolosi was reached, and the first night's camp was made near a fine tamarind-tree, which was noted as a landmark in case of a return that way. At this season there was a rather heavy dew towards daybreak, but the nights were calm, and, in comparison with the day, considerably colder than would be expected.

Just as the party was ready and preparing to start, after an early meal in the morning, some natives came from a neighbouring kraal with the information that on the previous night one of their best oxen, having strayed outside the cattle enclosure, had been seized and carried off by a lion. It had already been stated by John Dunn that the district through which they had to pass had been for some years infested with lions, and lately the casualties had been so frequent that the inhabitants were commencing to migrate. The Umvolosi at its junction with the Umbellan is about the same size as the latter river, and at this point makes a most remarkable bend from south-east to north-east, but its general direction for some distance in this district is due north, the stream flowing between banks twenty or thirty feet in height, with an average width of full forty feet and a depth of only three feet. The velocity of the current, however, was 120 feet a minute. Leaving Amansekranze, they marched about nine miles towards the north-west, having on their left the Black Umvolosi, and on their right the huge terraces and wood-crowned ravines of the Lebombo mountains. The woods came down to the river as it flowed between its rocky banks; and farther north-west some wide meadow-like flats were crossed, containing water basins almost as large as lakes. Several kinds of antelope of the larger sort, waterbucks, and hartebeests appeared, and as the troopers managed to wound and ride down several, their nightly bivouac in the forest was solaced by a feast of excellent venison. Between the Umvolosi and the Lebombo range the previous uniformity of the rocks began to be broken by projections of gneiss and by scattered hills. About twelve miles from the junction of the rivers at Amansekranze a remarkable illustration of this formation was passed, where huge blocks of stone rose in mounds from which colossal obelisks could be cut. These elevated places alternated with extensive flats as level as a table-top. In keeping with this weird and fantastic scenery and eccentric native architecture is the peculiarity of the conies or rock rabbits that have their dwelling among the crevices of the gneiss. Soon after the sun went down, and just before sunrise, they were to be seen all round squatting like natives at the entrance of their holes, into which at the slightest noise or sound of danger they darted with the most extraordinary snorts and grunts. There is, however, a great variety of species—difficult for one who is not a skilled naturalist to distinguish the one from the other—scattered through the whole of Zululand, each district seeming to present its own representative. They appear to feed chiefly on the bark of trees, although they will occasionally devour young shoots and grass. Distinct from anything in the more civilized parts of South Africa was the aspect of the landscape presented to view on the second morning of the march. From the heights to which Barrow and his men had ascended, and as far as the eye could reach, there extended a wide, grassy plain, broken artistically by huge stones of the most fantastic outline and by thickets and single trees. Graceful and luxuriant palms of the fan species waved above the groves, while the russet autumnal tints gave a rich colouring to the scenery; every rock, with its wealth of covering parasites, being a picture in itself. In the far north could be seen the Mussipulo and the distant portions of the Lebombo, whose purple peaks stood out in bold relief in the pale azure of the horizon. In the far distance, and in the direction of the Amatongas, the country had the deep and luscious blue of a Neapolitan sky, mellowed, however, as it came nearer and nearer into the most bewitching tints of grey and a golden brown that Titian would have loved to paint. In the foreground were the sturdy troopers of Marter's squadron grouped in picturesque disorder as the process of saddling went on. These with their bright uniforms, and the glint of steel scabbard, spur, and chain, were thrown out by the splendid hues of a foliage rich and alternating with the varied tints of red, yellow, and olive green, lightened up with the glad freshness of the sprouting shrubs, the deep red of the numerous ant-hills and the silver grey of the jutting rocks.

After leaving the river, the way at first led over what for horses alone, without wheels, was fair trekking ground. They then descended for about five miles, coming gradually down the slopes to a sort of rough trampled pathway, evidently made by a herd of driven cattle. Here could be distinctly traced the spoor, and here the king's cattle had evidently been driven. Now dipping into a deep hollow, where the grass grew in rank luxuriance, now topping a gentle rise and stopping to listen if they could hear the distant horns of the Zulu sounded when they announce the proximity of an enemy,—the horsemen neared the forest-land at the foot of the steep mountain range. Troops of eland crossed their path now and then, and occasionally a herd of koodoo. They now came to the end of the plain, and had to pass over a much more difficult country, where they could scarcely manage to get along two abreast, and sometimes in Indian file. The onward path at one portion of the kloof seemed completely barred by a closely set forest of underwood bush of dwarf acacia and creepers of the most tangled nature. Indeed it seemed at one time impossible to pass, but Lord Gifford, after a search of some moments, found the dry bed of a stream, up which, he said, they might have a chance of progressing. They had now to dismount and lead their horses, and slowly and with the greatest difficulty made their way on, sometimes crawling on hands and knees, and having to drag their rifles after them, winning way patiently, yard by yard, and almost inch by inch. Sometimes they were fairly stopped by huge masses of rock, and even compelled to cut a road through the spiky branches of the mimosa, which were bound up tightly together with the wild vines and creeping cane-like plants. For more than a mile did the column toil on through this ravine, their clothes torn, and face and hands bleeding from the thorns.

The morning after the first day's march brought them to the kraals where the king had been a fortnight previous to his flight, as stated to Sir Garnet by the Dutch trader, and it was no surprise to find these kraals burnt to the ground, and completely deserted. Therefore, after a brief halt, they pushed on, and did not draw rein until it became only too evident that the tired horses could go no further. They had been more than three and twenty hours in the saddle, and the weight of the dragoons had told severely upon Marter's horses, which, after the last ten miles under a most burning sun, and over rough and broken ground, were nearly all done up. On coming to the next kraal they found they were still upon the right track, as they gleaned sufficient intelligence to know that the king had slept there on the day preceding. He had, however, been warned by scouts and signal-fires,—the latter had been noticed as they came along,—and had decamped in time to get a good start. At this point Major Barrow decided to leave the King's Dragoon Guards behind, and push on with the lighter portion of his mounted men, and this arrangement was carried out with the understanding that the "King's" should follow as soon as their horses were fit. Once more, therefore, Barrow set out, and, as he subsequently found, was upon the king's trail for two clear days, having by dint of bribery and threats extorted information as to the king's intentions. On Thursday the column had a fearfully fatiguing and at the same time disappointing day. They reached another kraal at sundown, having travelled over a most difficult and hilly country all day. Major Barrow decided to bivouac at this kraal, and to start during the night should the moon give sufficient light. The moon, however, rose so late that it was really sunrise when they were on the move on Friday morning. Lord Gifford was now sent on ahead with a few men, and it was subsequently found afterwards that he and Captain Hardy chased and nearly caught one of the king's principal attendants. This man would have been caught had he not dexterously abandoned his horse, and, taking to the jungle, managed to elude further pursuit. Meanwhile the main body followed on, and on Saturday came to another kraal. One of the king's personal attendants was here captured, who having been frightened by a little threatening, showed where the king had stayed and slept on Thursday. This fellow's statements were somewhat contradictory and improbable. He wished Major Barrow to believe that the king meditated changing the direction of his flight and endeavouring to gain the Inkhangla bush, which is as nearly as possible opposite the Tugela middle drift. But to make this point the king would have had to get through the line of posts stationed in this district, and this made the story seem improbable. Major Barrow, however, taking the remote chance of the man being truthful, and having no better information, allowed the Zulu to take him in a retrograde and southerly direction, until he met another Zulu messenger, who said he had heard nothing of the king along the road he came. Major Barrow therefore retraced his steps to the camp of the main body on the Black Umvolosi, and sent Lord Gifford and Captain Maurice on with eight men to get some cattle from a kraal and obtain what information he could.

The first destination of this party was a kraal with cattle and mealies, and this was said to be about seven miles from where they were then halted. On reaching the said kraal on Saturday afternoon they surprised some Zulu boys, and partly by threats and partly by persuasion induced them to come on to another kraal, seven miles off. These boys, after some pressing, confessed that on the previous day (Friday), the king had endeavoured to double back towards the south, and had slept within a mile of where they had bivouacked, and had actually passed the kraal where they then were. This intelligence confirmed the story that had previously been told by the king's attendant, and the information was at once sent back to Major Barrow. On Saturday night they slept in the kraal they had reached in the afternoon, having during the day visited a number of smaller kraals and villages, in which they captured many assegais and other weapons. They thus had made a circuit and were now heading almost due south, and though they had now been four clear days in the saddle, had managed their three days' supply of rations so well that they had still a reserve to fall back upon. This feat of commissariat skill was accomplished by obtaining wherever they could such simple supplies as the kraals afforded—sour milk, Indian corn cakes made of mealies, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, and now and then a little Kaffir beer, which after a time, and when the taste is acquired, is not such very bad stuff. Sunday, the 17th, was a most eventful day. Lord Gifford paraded his men, and they started, as usual, just before sunrise, their destination being an important military kraal, which they had every reason to believe the king must have visited. The gallant leader had on the previous evening induced two Zulu boys to accompany his men as guides, for the shortest way was through the forest and across country, where it was impossible to find the smallest trace of a trek. When they set out, the whole of the wood was veiled in mist, and the ground was yet reeking with the early dew. But as the light came on they were rewarded by seeing an immense variety of forest shrubs. Especially beautiful was the Encephalartos, which grew in abundance; most noticeable too was a cabbage-shaped Euphorbia, as well as a large variety of conspicuous shrubs, many of them covered with such fine blossoms as to give the wilderness the aspect of an artificial park.

About three miles to the right, and to the south of the ford last crossed, rose several thickly-wooded hills, and in the kloofs could be seen the smoke of kraals. The guides had by this time become quite friendly and confidential, and by their advice more than one of these kraals were surrounded, in hope that if they did not see the king they might hear of his more recent movements. At three of these kraals they captured arms and ammunition, and filled their haversacks with mealies, but could gain no tidings of Cetywayo, although they knew he could not be far off. In one instance they thought they had discovered their prize, as coming out of the forest they saw a portion of open country before them and several natives on horseback and on foot about two miles away to their right. The scenery they were now approaching towards the south-west assumed a character very different to the parklike landscape through which they had been passing. For many miles the eye rested upon treeless steppes and flats, broken by bamboo and mimosa jungles that seemed almost impenetrable, and standing in detached groups, their dark olive green contrasted admirably with the bright hue of the grass, giving a complete novelty of character to the general aspect. The moment the group of natives saw them emerge from the forest they quickened their pace, and endeavoured to gain the jungle to their left, while Lord Gifford detached three of his men round a small hill to cut them off. A most exciting race now commenced, two Basutos joining in the pursuit, and taking advantage of every rock and bush to dodge and intercept the fugitives. Suddenly the Zulus became aware of the party sent round the hill to intercept them, and giving a shout of alarm ran back in the direction of the kraal the English troopers had left. This was exactly what was required, and galloping right across the plain the troopers caught them halfway. These men were found to be Zulus of the neighbourhood, and when they were satisfied that their pursuers had no hostile intentions they became quite friendly, offering milk and Kaffir corn, as well as food for the horses. They professed to be starting on a journey to a kraal about ten miles off, belonging to a chief named Isnabomlika, who, they said, was anxious for the capture of the king, as he had grievously oppressed him. Leaving these men, they continued their march, and soon came to a tract of country much better cultivated than any they had hitherto seen. Maize-fields (mealies) showed that the ground was fertile, and although no cattle was seen, the presence of several kraals on the neighbouring hills showed that the district was populous.

About midday they reached the large military kraal where it was thought probable the king might have stopped. His guides had served him with fidelity, and so Lord Gifford promised to reward them at headquarters with a present of cattle to each. These lads had made themselves great favourites with the men, who seemed quite to fraternize with them. Their delight was unbounded when the officers came across and killed with their rifles any description of game, and they seemed wonderfully impressed with the accuracy of the shooting. They said it had been currently reported in their neighbourhood that the king was lame and could not travel fast, and that his followers were leaving him every day. Just before reaching the kraal one of the lads, an intelligent, sharp little fellow, as he was running a few yards in front of the horses, pointed out to Lord Gifford the track of cattle leading away to the bush on the right. They halted and had a consultation; but it was decided not to follow these tracks, but to continue on southwards, their object being, if possible, to hem in the king, and drive him on towards the pickets of Barrow's party or the scouts of General Clarke, who had four companies of infantry, the headquarters of the King's Dragoon Guards, and a number of irregulars (cavalry and infantry) encamped at the drift of the Black Umvolosi. As they knew that Clarke's patrols were scouring the country to the north and east, they had no fear of the king's escape in that direction. But little information was gained at the big kraal, where they off-saddled for two hours, and fed their rather overworked mounts. At three o'clock they again started and now made a bend towards Entonjaneni, as by this course it was considered they would have the best chance of intercepting the king in his attempt to cut through the cordon now drawn around him. The range of hills which they now had on their right were the Umyati. They are a continuation of the Ngome mountains, which shoot out from the Lebombo towards the west, and they form a portion of the ridge bordering the southern or right bank of the Black Umvolosi.

On the summit, as far as the eye could reach, there was an extensive plateau broken by detached groves and handsome trees, and sloping down towards the north to the stream. A few miles on they came to some fine tamarinds, under the pleasant shade of which another short halt and off-saddle was made. Before reaching the river they had to cross four little brooks that flowed in an easterly direction to join it. The first of these to the north of the hills was the upper course of the Enhlongana, and was full of water in a deep bed enclosed in an avenue of trees. A ridge of hills ran parallel to the path on the left, and after they had crossed the second brook a mass of red rock, rising to about 300 feet was observed on the right. The long grass was now very troublesome, coming up in some places to the saddle-flaps, and tickling the horses in a most unpleasant manner. Towards five o'clock they entered the splendid forest of Enhlongana, through which, but ten miles to the west, they had passed some ten days before. After the forest came an open steppe, with a distant view of the hills in front, which they crossed, though more to the west than before. The passage of the Enhlongana having been accomplished without mishap, the road began to ascend and led through a wood, where the foliage was so dense that it was quite impossible to see many steps in front.

It will be observed that there were no less than twelve brooks crossed in the interval between the march in the morning and the final bivouac on Sunday night. These are all supplied more or less copiously with water, even in the dry season; at least so said the guides. Although all these streams have their origin quite close to the left bank of the Enhlongana, yet they take a very devious course before they actually join it; the last five, indeed, do not actually meet the river, but join another stream a little to the west called the Ivuma, which unites itself with the Black Umvolosi under the Ngome mountain. On this watershed bamboo and mimosa jungles extend over an area of many square miles. The species of bamboo which is thus found in such masses is not so large as that one is accustomed to see in India, Ceylon, or the Mauritius; and in the manner of its growth it is not unlike an asparagus bed in the summer-time, hundreds of sprouts starting up from a single root, and drooping in the most graceful curves over towards the ground. In other respects the habit of the plant is similar to the Indian bamboo. The night was now coming on; they had ridden at the very least thirty-five miles, besides exploring kraals, examining prisoners, and galloping after wounded game. All knew and felt instinctively that the king was in the toils, that he could not have broken through the network spread for him, and that it was a mere question of days as to when he would be forced to surrender. The horses were indeed fatigued, but none as yet were lame, while the three days' rations of biscuit and preserved meats, with which they had started, were almost intact, so well had they been husbanded by the men living on what they could shoot or obtain from the kraals.

On Sunday night (August 17th) the bivouac was made at the wild mountain kraal of Unhlovani; some women, girls, and children were found here, who at first were terribly frightened at the approach of the troopers, but soon became reassured and friendly. Indeed Lord Gifford had a wonderful faculty of ingratiating himself with the native races, and, after a little persuasion, made one of the chief's daughters confess that, although the king did not pass by this particular kraal, his attendants did but two days since. She also added information of great value, namely, that there were but two passes over the mountain they had now reached, and that three of the king's wives had passed over the eastern road the day before, carrying bundles and food. They further learnt that this girl had no possible reason for sympathy for or loyalty to Cetywayo, inasmuch as an old Zulu, who stated that she was his niece, told them that the king, about two years ago, suspecting her father of some pretended conspiracy, had had him smelt out and killed, and that the children were at Cetywayo's disposal for sale or gift. On the following morning (Monday) the horses were tolerably refreshed. They had a good amount of forage given them, and a careful examination of each animal showed that no back sinews were strained, and that no sore backs had come on. A small supply of sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and a quantity of mealies were given to them by the chief's daughters, whose hearts their leader had won by explaining to them that the king's reign of terror was at an end, and that henceforth they could marry any young warrior they pleased. Bidding these Zulu friends adieu, the party were in the saddle and on the road by five o'clock; and, ascending by a path pointed out by some boys of the kraal, they came to a lofty ridge dominating the valley below, and along which they pushed at a fast walk for about an hour. From this ridge, which they were following as quickly as the rugged nature of the narrow ledge would allow, the view was magnificently grand. In the foreground, where they were compelled to march in single file, and where a halt was made every now and then to allow a straggler to come up, was a most inviting grove, with some of the most charming types of tropical vegetation—the large-leaved, blue-green anona, the purple Grewia mollis, and a number of pretty little trees of the pine genus, that gave a Swiss character to the scene. Having risen in their march to an elevation of 2000 feet, they gazed down upon a fine view of the valley and its meandering rivers below. The banks of each stream were marked by rows of tall reeds, and the morning sun gleamed upon the mirror of the numerous backwaters, while the distance revealed a series of woody undulations in the direction of the Norwegian mission station of Enhlongana. Turning sharply round a curve in the rocky path, they came suddenly upon a kraal nestled in a most secluded and difficult spot, and here they found two good-looking and very communicative Zulu girls, who fetched for them some capital milk, and, after a little coaxing, told them that the king's attendants had passed on that way the previous evening. These women, as far as could be gleaned from the interpreter, had also suffered some wrong and oppression, and whatever might be the political feeling or loyal tendencies of Cetywayo's male subjects, it seemed tolerably evident that the Zulu women would have no objection to a change of government. These women at the kraal having shown them a short cut down one side of the ridge, they hastened on in the hope of overtaking some of the king's following, and their activity was soon rewarded by discovering a couple of figures making their way hurriedly along the lower ledge about a mile from them. One of the officers volunteered to proceed on foot to cut these people off by a sort of goat-path that seemed practicable down the side of the cliff; and, accompanied by one trooper, half-sliding, half-falling, and with a desperate scramble, the gallant fellow reached the next ledge at a point where it was evident the travellers must pass. In ten minutes they came up—a tall and stalwart Zulu with a bundle of assegais, accompanied by a lad carrying a sort of canvas bag, something in shape like those in which cricketers carry a bat and flannel suit. At the word "Halt!" accompanied by a presented revolver, the couple of natives came to a stand, and on being questioned declared they were messengers from the chief Usibibo to a neighbouring kraal. As this story seemed rather doubtful, it was determined to search the cricket-bag, and they were not long in finding a trophy that almost repaid them for their many weary miles of travel. Inside was a very handsome Henry rifle belonging to the king, a small leather handbag, a number of cartridges, and a hand-mirror! As such articles do not form the travelling appendages of the ordinary Zulu, it was at once seen that they were getting hotter and hotter on the trail. While these two were thus carefully examining the captured spoil, the main party came winding down the kloof, having during their absence come suddenly upon and surprised some more of Cetywayo's attendants. A halt was immediately ordered, and the whole of the prisoners examined one by one.