PAGE
Rough Sketch Map of India[xvi]
London to Port Said, a Hieroglyphic of our Voyage[3]
Coaling at Port Said—and after![6]
Spoiling the Egyptians? or being Despoiled by Them![7]
Sensation in Solar Topis[7]
The Suez Canal[9]
The Passage of the Red Sea (Therm: 88° or so!)[12]
In the same Boat—a Contrast at Aden[14]
Some Types among our Fellow Passengers[17]
Landing at Bombay[22]
Awaiting the Customs—Bombay[23]
Street Performers—Bombay[24]
Interview with Candidates for the Post of Bearer—mostly unbearable![31]
A Bed at the Dak Bungalow! Munmad (keep it Da(r)k)[35]
We are introduced to the Caves of Ellora[39]
And its Wasps[42]
The Feet of Pilgrims (at Mohammedan Mosques)[50]
Poor Relations[52]
A Family Party—Cranes on a Mango Tree (Sarbarmati River)[54]
Street Scene, Ahmedabad. English Travellers sketching and making Purchases[57]
The Camel’s Crinoline (Sugar Cane) Ajmir[71]
First Elephant Ride. (Chitorgarh)[78]
Rajputs and their Rarities. (Udaipur)[85]
Hotel Accommodation (Jaipur), “for your Ease and Comfort” (or rather for the Easing of your Rupees?)[98]
To Amber on an Elephant[106]
Shopping in Jaipur[109]
Aggravating Agra[115]
The Mainstay of India. Aquarius—the Water-bearer[119]
To Gwalior Fort by Palanquin[129]
Callers at the Guest House, Gwalior[137]
A Dash for the Dining-car at Agra Road[146]
Delhi Driving. Wanted—a Rule of the Road[159]
She won’t be Happy till She gets Everything packed up[162]
Demon Hotel Touts at Amritzar fighting for their Prey[163]
Through Amritzar—sit tight and hold a Smelling Bottle![165]
An Indian Autolycus[168]
Enjoying a Log Fire at Lahore[172]
“The Woman in White” at Lahore (Suggestion for a Disguise Party)[175]
The Merchants of Kashmir[182]
In Hospital, Lucknow. The Operating Table (Patient had a Bit of Grit in her Eye after a Train Journey)—Sixteen Rupees were extracted![186]
Jugglers at Lucknow—the Mango Tree Trick[187]
Better Luck at Lucknow—through the Chowk on an Elephant[195]
The Maharajah places his Carriage at our Disposal[202]
Benares: viewing the Ghats from the Maharajah’s Peacock Boat[207]
We see Snakes at Benares[209]
The Maharajah’s Reception, decorating the Visitors[214]
The Soothsayer at Calcutta—(or Palmistry under the Palms)[220]
The Darjeeling Toy-Railway trying to catch its own Tail![225]
Characters in a Tibetan Masque, Darjeeling[228]
The shy Peak of Kinchin Junga[233]
A Ride at Darjeeling: “up Hill spare Me”[234]
A Hailstone Chorus—Departure from Darjeeling[236]
Calcutta to Madras—Section of Sleeper—or Something like It[240]
Ladies or Gentlemen? (Fashions in Southern India)[243]
Madras—a Jin-rickshaw made for Two[250]
Tanjore—Native Theatre—House full. Performance from 9 p.m. till 2 a.m.—but We didn’t stop to see It through[265]
Trichinopoly—Ox Tonga—Vita Brevis![271]
The Sacred Elephants of Seringham—securing Two-Anna Pieces[274]
The Rivals. Our Moonsawmy and the Madura Guide[277]
Tuticorin. Departure for Colombo. The Last of the Kites and Crows[287]
Landing at Colombo[291]
Common Objects of Colombo. (Jin-rickshawus Bipedes)[293]
A Cingalese Waiter[294]
In Ceylon—Extremes meet—the Motor and the Ox-cart[296]
Tea Plantation, Ceylon[303]
Tea and Rubber in Ceylon—a rising Industry[309]
A few Trifles the Wife wished to bring Home from India[316]

LIST OF PLATES

The Manikarniká Ghat, Benares[Frontispiece]
TO FACE PAGE
The Kylas, Caves of Ellora[38]
Arrival of Mr Dadabhai Naoroji at Bombay, December 14, 1906[46]
Tomb of Gunj Baksh, Sarkhei[58]
Shrine of the Kwaja, Ajmir[66]
The Maharajah’s Palace at Udaipur, from the Jagmandir Pavilion[88]
The Maharajah’s State Elephant, Jaipur[102]
The Taj Mahal, from the Gateway[116]
In the Bazaar, Gwalior[134]
Approach to the Palace of Man Mandir, Gwalior[138]
The Jama Musjid Mosque, Delhi[152]
Lahore—The Mosque of Waza Khan[182]
Irrigation Well, Lucknow[196]
Kinchin Junga from Darjeeling[232]
Tanjore—The Great Gate of the Temple[254]
Sacred Tank of the Great Temple, Madura[282]
Under the Palms at the Galle Face, Ceylon[292]

ROUGH-SKETCH SKELETON-MAP OF INDIA TO SHOW OUR RAILWAY ROUTE & POSITION OF THE PLACES VISITED