The Modern Clock / A Study of Time Keeping Mechanism; Its Construction, Regulation and Repair

by Ward L. Goodrich

If the clock gains time turn the large regulating nut under the pendulum bob slightly to the left.

If the clock loses time turn the nut slightly to the right.

Loosen the small check nut under the regulating nut before turning the regulating nut, and be sure to tighten the check nut after moving the regulating nut.

Fig. 141.

The friction of the seconds hand is very carefully adjusted at the factory, being weighed by hanging a small standard weight on the point of the hand. If it becomes too light and the hand drives or slips backward, losing time, it can be made stronger by laying it on a piece of wood and rubbing the inner sides of the points with a smooth screw driver, and if too heavy and the clock will not set when the synchronizing magnets are actuated, the points of the spring in the friction may be straightened a little.

If the seconds hand sleeve does not hold on the seconds socket, pinch it a little with pliers. If the seconds hand is loose on the sleeve put on a new one or solder it on the under side.

In style F the synchronizing lever, heart-shaped seconds socket and cams on the cannon sockets are the same as in the old style movements, shown in [Fig. 141]. The difference is in the synchronizing magnets and the way they operate the synchronizing lever. The magnet has a flat ended core instead of being eccentric like the former ones. The armature is also made of flat iron and is pivoted to a stud fastened to the synchronizing frame. The armature is connected to the synchronizing lever by a connecting rod and pitman screws. A sector has an oblong slot, allowing the armature to be lowered or raised one-sixteenth of an inch. The synchronizing lever is placed on a steel stud fastened to the front plate and held in position by a brass nut. The synchronizing magnets are 12 ohms with 80 ohms resistance and are fastened to a yoke which is screwed to the synchronizing frame by four iron screws. The holes in the synchronizing frame are made oblong, allowing the yoke and magnets to be raised or lowered one-sixteenth of an inch. The spring on top of the armature is used to throw it back quickly and also acts as a diamagnetic, preventing the armature from freezing to the magnets. A screw in the stud is used to screw up against the magnet head, preventing any spring that might take place on the armature stud. Binding posts are screwed to the synchronizing frame and the ends of the magnet coils are fastened thereto with metal clips.

The blue wires in the clock case are coiled and have a metal clip soldered to them. They connect direct by these clips to the binding posts, thus making a firm connection, and are not liable to oxidize. With the various points of adjustment a pair of magnets burned out or otherwise defective may readily be replaced in from five to ten minutes.