When replacing a pair of synchronizing magnets proceed as follows: Remove the old pair and then loosen all four screws in the yoke, pushing it up against the tops of the oblong holes, then tighten down lightly. Fasten the new pair of magnets to the yoke with the inner ends of the coils showing at the outside of the movement. Press the armature upward until the synchronizing lever locks tightly on the cannon socket and the heart-shaped cams, then loosen the magnet yoke screws and press the magnets down on the spring on top of the armature. Then tighten the yoke screws on the front plate and see that the back of the magnets clears the armature by one-hundredth of an inch (the thickness of a watch paper), when the screws in the back of the yoke can be set down firmly. The adjustment screw may then be turned up until it presses lightly against the magnet head. When current is passed through the magnets and held there the armature must clear the magnets without touching. The magnet coils must then be connected to their respective binding posts by slipping the metal clips soldered to them under the rubber bushing, making a metallic connection with the binding plates. Fasten these screws down tight to insure good connections.

Fig. 142.

The Master Clock.—Is a finely finished movement with mercurial pendulum that beats seconds and a Gerry gravity escapement. At the left and near the center of the movement is a device for closing the synchronizing circuit once each hour. The device consists of a stud on which is an insulator having two insulated spring fingers, C and D, one above the other, as shown in [Fig. 142], except at the points where they are cut away to lie side by side on an insulated support. On these fingers, and near the insulator, are two platinum pieces, E and F, so adjusted as to be held apart, except at the time of synchronizing.

A projection, B, from the insulator rests on the edge of a disc on the center arbor. At ten seconds before the hour, a notch in this disc allows the spring to draw the support downward, leaving the points of the fingers, C and D, resting on the raised part of the rubber cam on the escape arbor. The end of the finger, C, is made shorter than that of D, and at the fifty-ninth second, C drops and closes the circuit by E striking F. At the next beat of the pendulum the long finger D drops and opens the circuit again.

The winding is the same as in the regular self-winding clocks, the motor wire and seconds contact being connected to the binding plates at the left, from which brown wires lead up to the battery. Two wires from the synchronizing device are connected to the binding plates at the left, from which blue wires run out to the line.

Before connecting the clock to the line it must be run until it is well regulated, and also to learn if the contacts are working correctly. Regulate at first by the nut at the bottom of the rod until it runs about one second slow in 24 hours (a full turn of the nut will change the rate about one-half minute per day). The manufacturers send with each clock a set of auxiliary pendulum weights, the largest weighing one gram, the next in size five decigrams and the smallest two decigrams; these weights are to make the fine regulations by placing one or more of them on the little table that is fastened about the middle of the pendulum rod. The five decigram weight will make the clock gain about one second per day, and the other weights in proportion. Care must be taken not to disturb the swing of the pendulum, as a change of the arc changes the rate.

To start the clock after it is regulated, stop it, with the second hand on the fiftieth second; move the hands forward to the hour at which the signal comes from the observatory; then press the minute hand back gently until it is stopped by the extension on the hour contact, [Fig. 142], and beat the clock up to the hour. This ensures the hour contact being in position to send the synchronizing signal.

A good way to start it with observatory time is with all the hands pointing to the “signal” hour; hold the pendulum to one side and when the signal comes let it go. With a little practice it can be started very nearly correct.