The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

by Wilfred Mark Webb

NO.			PAGE
[1].		“The Origin of Species,” by Charles Darwin. (First edition published 1859)	[2]
[2].		“Development in Dress,” by George H. Darwin. Macmillan’s Magazine, September, 1872, page 410	[3]
[3].		“Pithecanthropus erectus, eine Menschenaehnliche Uebergangsform aus Java,” by Eug. Dubois, Batavia, 1894	[7]
[4].		“Journal during the voyage of H.M.S. Beagle,” by Charles Darwin. Minerva Library, 1889, page 154	[11]
[5].		“The Industrial Arts of Denmark,” by J. J. A. Worsaae. 1882, page 48	[18]
[6].		See Number [2], page 412	[30]
[7].		Notice of Lecture given by Mr. Allan Poe Newcombe, in the Sandwich Islands. Quoted from the Honolulu Commercial Advertiser in The English Mechanic, No. 1934	[49]
[8].		See Number [6]	[58]
[9].		“The Human Beast of Burden,” by Otis T. Mason. Smithsonian Report of the United States National Museum, 1887, page 246	[110]
[10].		“Anthropology,” by Edward B. Tylor. 1892, page 236	[111]
[11].		“The British Lake Dwellings near Glastonbury.” 1896, page 13	[117]
[12]. [13].	}	“The Gem Cutter’s Craft,” by Leopold Claremont. 1906, pages 75 and 87	[123] [124]
[14]. [15].	}	“Some Suggestions as to the Origin of the Penannular Brooch,” by Edward Lovett. The Reliquary, Vol. X, 1904, page 15	[125]
[16].		“Races of Man,” by Oscar Peschel. English Translation, 1889, page 174	[136]
[17].		“The Cyclopædia of the British Costumes, from the Metropolitan Repository of Fashions.” 1826, page 196	[145]
[18].		A letter in The Morning Post of November 12th, 1897, from Messrs. André & Co.	[153]
[19].		“English Costume,” painted and described by Dion Clayton Calthrop. 1906, page 130	[156]
[20].		Article on “Cockades” in The Sketch for March 9th, 1898	[158]
[21].		See Number [19]	[159]
[22].		“Costume from Monumental Brasses,” by Herbert Druitt. 1906	[165]
[23].		“Rational Dress v. Industrialism,” The Rational Dress Gazette, No. 88, by Dr. Alice Vickery, page 356	[165]
[24].		“Shoe-throwing at Weddings,” by James E. Crombie, Folk Lore, Vol. VI (1895), page 258	[176]
[25].		“Ecclesiastical Vestments, their Development and History,” by R. A. S. Macalister. 1896, page 140	[185]
[26].		“Vestiarium Christianium: the Origin and Gradual Development of the Dress of the Holy Ministry in the Church,” by the Rev. Wharton D. Marriott. 1861, page 48	[188]
[27].		See Number [25], page 21	[189]
[28].		A letter in The Guardian, by G. C. Coulton, August, 1907	[194]
[29].		Paedag. Lib. iii., page 300	[205]
[30].		See Number [22], page 122	[210]
[31].		“College Caps and Doctors’ Hats,” by Professor E. C. Clark. Archæological Journal, Vol. LXI. 1894, page 36	[213]
[32].		See Number [22], page 224	[216]
[33].		“The Sacring of the English Kings,” by J. Wickham Legg. Archæological Journal, Vol. XLI. 1894, page 35	[221]
[34].		“History of the King’s Body Guard of the Yeomen of the Guard,” by Colonel Sir Reginald Hennell. 1904, plate facing page 32	[225]
[35]. [36].	{	“Uniforms of our Fighting Forces, Regimental Survivals and Peculiarities,” by R. Caton Woodville. Cassell’s Magazine, 1906, page 524; and “Peculiarities of British Army Dress,” by Walter Wood. Pall Mall Magazine, Vol. XI. 1897, page 527	[238]
[37].		“Yester Year,” by A. Robida, English translation, page 83	[253]
[38].		A Lecture given by Mr. George Heppel before the Hammersmith Literary and Scientific Society	[253]
[39].		“Naples in 1888,” by Eustace Neville Rolffe	[254]
[40].		“Notes by a Naturalist on H.M.S. Challenger,” by Professor Moseley	[272]
[41].		See Number [40], page 423	[273]
[42].		“Costume in England,” by F. W. Fairholt. Revised Edition, 1885, Vol. II, page 303	[278]
[43].		“The Whole Stock of a Coquette,” by Helen C. Gordon. English Illustrated Magazine, February, 1901, page 451	[279]
[44].		“Costume: Fanciful, Historical, and Theatrical,” by Mrs. Aria. 1906, page 199	[281]
[45].		“Curiosities of Literature,” by Disraeli. Vol. I, page 186	[283]
[46].		See Number [19], page 20	[287]
[47].		See Number [42], page 240	[289]
[48].		“Suggested Moorish Origin of certain Amulets in use in Great Britain,” by Dr. Plowright. The Reliquary, Vol. XII, 1906, page 106	[293]
[49].		“Horse Brasses,” by Lina Eckenstein. The Reliquary, Vol. XII, 1906, page 251	[293]
[50].		“Animal Artisans,” by C. J. Cornish. 1906, page 251	[300]
[51].		Article by Mr. Yoxall in The Journal of Gipsy Lore,new series, Vol. I, part I, 1907	[306]
[52].		Article by Mr. J. Chevasse. Evening News, April 5th, 1907	[316]
[53].		Article in The Daily Mail, September 4th, 1907 317
[54].		“Essays on Museums and other subjects connected with Natural History,” by Sir William Flower. 1898, page 350	[324]
[55].		See Number [37], page 91	[325]
[56].		“The History of the Corset,” by Geraldine Vane and F. Glen Walker. Lady’s Realm Summer Number, 1901	[326]
[57].		“Spinal Curvatures,” by Heather Bigg. 1905	[326]
[58].		See Number [54], page 347	[335]
[59].		Article in The Morning Leader of April 17th, 1906	[339]
[60].		“Physical Efficiency,” by James Cantlie. 1906	[355]
[61].		Leaderette in The Field, August 29th, 1902, page 452 359
[62].		“Costume of Colonial Times,” by Alice Morse Earle, page 28	[359]
[63].		“Why Won’t They Alter It?” by Bernard O’Connor, Rational Dress Gazette, No. 87, page 352	[361]

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[INDEX]

Note.—The numbers in heavy type refer to the pages on which figures will be found.

[A]	[B]	[C]	[D]	[E]	[F]
[G]	[H]	[I]	[J]	[K]	[L]
[M]	[N]	[O]	[P]	[Q]	[R]
[S]	[T]	[U]	[V]	[W]	[Y]

• Abbesses, costume of, [198]
• Abergavenny, the Marquis of, wears badges, [91]
• Academical dress, [208]
• — hoods, [210]
• Achievements, styles of, [87]
• Acrobat, dress of, [286]
• — tights of, [286]
• — trunk hose of, [286]
• Admiral, uniform of, worn by coxswains at Eton on the Fourth of June, [171]
• Africa, the West Coast of, little clothing worn on, [8]
• Aggries, [113]
• Agilbert, Bishop of Paris, ring of, [114]
• Aiglets, [100]
• Aiguillettes, [101], [101]
• — Mr. Caton Woodville on, [240]
• — of aides-de-camp, [240]
• — — footmen, [141], [141], [240]
• — — Household Cavalry, [240]
• — — a Knight of the Bath, [231]
• — — — Knight of St. Michael and St. George, [231]
• Ailette, [84]
• Albe, [198], [199]
• — of James II, [221]
• — originally a secular garment, [189]
• — replaced by surplice, [185]
• Alhambra, [293]
• Almshouses, costumes of, [170]
• Almuce, [198], [199]
• — forerunner of the tippet, [212]
• Ambassadors, cockade of Danish, [160]
• — — — English, [160]
• — — — Foreign, [160]
• — — — French, [160]
• American, dress of the, [318]
• Amethyst, supposed powers of the, [124]
• Amice, [200], [221]
• Amulet, arrow-head, [296]
• Amulets buried with the head of ancient Egyptians, [122]
• — crescent-shaped, [293]
• — heart-shaped, [295], [296]
• — worn by Egyptian children, [123]
• Andaman Islanders, painting the body among, [276]
• André, Messrs., & Co., on cockades, [153]
• Anglo-Saxon, bandaged stocking of, [67], [67]
• Animal actors, clothes of, [301]
• Animals, colour of, in connection with ceremonials, [303]
• — curious variations of, produced under domestication, [302]
• — spotted when young, [94]
• — mutilation of, [302]
• Anklets, [9]
• Anne, apron of Queen, [150]
• — Consort of James I, glove of, [98], [99]
• Antiquities, Museum of, Copenhagen, [178]
• Apparel of chasuble called an orphrey, [196]
• — on albe, possibly remains of clavi, [193]
• Appendix, vermiform, [3]
• Apron, [149]
• — of barge-woman, milk-woman, and hospital nurse, [150]
• — — bishop, a vestige of the cassock, [200]
• — — housemaid, [149]
• — — Judy, [263], [263]
• — — masons, [232]
• — — nuns, [202]
• — — Queen Anne, [150]
• Aprons, tiger skin, of Leicestershire Regiment, [249]
• Arab women, [122]
• — — ideas of modesty, [207]
• Arabs use folds of robes as pockets, [110]
• Archers, Scottish, coats of, [226]
• Aria, Mrs., on the ancestress of the straight-fronted specialité corset, [337]
• — — on the unwritten laws that rule the wearing of a mask, [281]
• Armlets conferred on soldiers, [114]
• — need for cooling, in some climates, [114]
• Armorial bearings on ladies’ dresses, [84], [85]
• Armour, [83]
• — a development of dress, [12]
• — of chargers, [292]
• Arms, coat of, [83]
• — of England, [86]
• — — schools and colleges, [90]
• — — Thomas à Becket, [198]
• Arran murder case, [178]
• Arrow-head amulets, [296]
• Arrow-heads, flint, as pendants, [123]
• Arts, gown of master of, [210]
• — hood of bachelor of, [212]
• Atella, celebrated for Italian farces, [254]
• Athletic clubs, parti-coloured dress of, [313]
• Aurelian, distribution of oraria by, [192]
• Austria, Emperor of, [244]
• Austrian, dress of the, [318]
• Axe for killing wounded horses, [242]
• Ayahs, nose-rings of, [111]

• Babylon, finger-rings in, [114]
• Baby’s glove without fingers, [94], [95]
• Bachelor of Arts, hood of, [212]
• Badge and crest, difference between, [90]
• — broad arrow, [91]
• — of Black Prince, [88]
• — — Edward III, [91]
• — — the porters of the Inner Temple, [91]
• Badges, hereditary, [90]
• — signs derived from royal, [91]
• — regimental, [243], [245]
• — of Gloucestershire regiment, [245]
• — — private firemen, [91]
• Badges of the Yeomen of the Guard, [224], [224]
• — — Watermen, [91]
• — worn by the Marquis of Abergavenny, [91]
• Bag-wig, vestige of the, [133], [134], [143], [143], [228], [229]
• Baildon, Mr. Paley, on new garments put over old, [148]
• — — — — the coif, [216]
• Baldric, [106]
• — modern use of, [106]
• — ornamented with bells, [108], [108]
• Ballrooms, bare necks in, [14]
• Band, black on arm as mourning, [182]
• — chin, [202], [203]
• — hat, [52]
• Bandaged stockings of Anglo-Saxons, [67]
• Bandages, leg, [66], [66], [67]
• Bandbox, [46], [47]
• Bandoleer, on baldric, [108]
• Bands, [44], [45]
• — of barristers, [44]
• — — blue-coat boys, [44], [45]
• — — choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, [45], [45]
• — — Jan Steen, [46], [46]
• — — John Pym, [46], [46]
• — — Milton, [46]
• — — small boys, [47], [47]
• — — the legal profession, [219]
• — — Winchester scholars, [169]
• — on a lady’s nightgown, [288], [289]
• — worn with a black Geneva gown, [44], [185]
• Bantams, booted, [303]
• — frizzled, [303]
• Baptism, vestments used at, [164]
• Barbarians wore trousers, [77], [78]
• Barge women, apron of, [150]; Plate [VIII] facing page 150
• — — costume of, [110]
• — — sun-bonnet of, [61]; Plate [VIII] facing page 150
• Barme-cloth (apron), [150]
• Barons of the Exchequer, robes of, [218]
• Barristers’ bands, [44]
• — gown, [218], [219]
• — wigs, [132]
• Basquine, [325]
• Baton of drum-major, [241]
• — — Field-Marshal, [223]
• Beadle, dress of, [147], [264]
• — in Punch and Judy, [147], [262], [264]
• Beads as currencies, [113]
• — blue popo, worth their weight in gold, [113]
• — early used in England, [112]
• — from Egypt, [113]
• — of the prehistoric Egyptians, [112]
• — still fashionable, [112]
• Beagle, H.M.S., voyage of, [11]
• Beard of Edward II, [130]
• — — — III, [129]
• Beards, closely shaved by Normans, [129]
• — — — in Edward IV’s time, [130]
• — cut by Romans, [129]
• — parted or trimmed by Saxons, [129]
• Bedford, Duchess of, riding habit of, [251]
• Bedgown, woman executed in a, [290]
• Beefeaters, cap of, [168]
• Bells as ornaments, derived from flowers, [314]
• Belt of groom, [140]
• — — — origin of, [139]
• Belts, Dr. Cantlie on the use of, [356]
• — worn by navvies, [329]
• Bernard, on blowing the nose on the chasuble, [195]
• Bhurtpore, battle of, [244]
• Bib, [150]
• — of infant, [167]
• Bibliography, [363]-[7]
• Bigg, Mr. Heather, on the erect position of man, [330], [331]
• — — — — — rapid loss of beauty in native girls, [328]
• — — — — — use of stays, [326], [327]
• Billet, sign of the Crooked, [146]
• Binder of infant, [163]
• Biretta, evolution of, [213]
• Bishop, hat of, [214], [214]
• — method of buttoning trousers, [252]
• — rochet, chimere, and lawn sleeves of, [199]
• Black as mourning, [181]
• Bloomer, Mrs., [81], [356]
• — — dress of, [361]
• Bloomers, Dr. Bernard O’Connor on, [361]
• Blouse, blue, of the butcher, [307], [320]
• Blue blouse of butcher, [307], [320]
• — coat boys, [167]
• — — — bands of, [44], [45]
• — favours, [307]
• Boadicea, dress of, [312]
• Boar, wild, spotted when young, [94]
• Bohemians, the King of the, wore no ostrich feathers, [91]
• Body, clothes used to alter the shape of, [337]
• Boiler cleaners, combination garments of, [320]
• Bone inserted into prehistoric skulls, [336]
• — pin, [105]
• Boots, jack, [235]
• — of bridegrooms removed by brides in Russia, [177]
• — ornamentation of modern, [62], [63]
• — top, [65], [65]
• — — upper parts now immovable, [66], [66]
• Borough Councillors, robes of, [138]
• Bouquets carried by coxswains on the Fourth of June at Eton, [171]
• Bows inside ladies’ hats, [57], [58]
• — of silk ribbon inside hat, [54], [55]
• Boy catching an object in his lap, [341]
• Boys, blue-coat, [167]
• — colour preferences of, [307]
• — dressed as soldiers, [163]
• — petticoats of, [165]
• Brace in which the straps are not united, [356]
• Bracelets, [9]
• — need to be cooled in some climates, [114]
• Brandenburg, Albrect von, with two palls, [197]
• Brandon, John, brass to, [38]
• Brasses, [38], Plate [IV], [86], [86], [234], [234]
• — chrysome, [164]
• Brats, [300]
• Breast cloth of nun, [202], [203]
• — plate of horse, amulets on, [294]
• Breasts, bare, in Ancient Egypt, [74], [75]
• — — in Korea, [75], [75]
• — — in the time of James I, [76]
• Breeches, knee, [79]
• — of Lord Darnley, [286]
• — origin of the word, [311]
• — petticoat, of sailors, [252]
• — plush, [140], [141]
• — stuffed, [337]
• — Venetian, of pantaloon, [284]
• Bridesmaids, origin of presents made to, by bridegroom, [175]
• Bristol, Red Maid School of, [168]
• Broad arrow badge, [91]
• Bronze Age chieftains, dress of, [18], [19]
• — — people wore deerskin cloaks retaining horns, [117]
• — pins, [105]
• Brooch, [122]
• — safety-pin like an Etruscan, [102], [103]
• — the buckle, a, without hasp, [125]
• Brooches, pin ring, [125]
• — to fasten tunic, [17], [17]
• Buckle, [125]
• Bulgaria, shoe money in, [177]
• Burden, primitive method of carrying a, [106], [107]
• Busbies, caricatures of, [247], [248]
• Busby, [238]
• — development of, [59]
• — of Rifle Brigade, [242]
• — origin of the, Sir George Darwin on, [58], [59]
• — red flap on, [59], [59]
• Buskins, [195]
• Bust, padding used to improve the, [338]
• Butcher’s blue blouse, [320]
• Butterman, white clothes of, [320]
• Button, [118]
• — covered with crape, [243]
• — Mr. P. W. Reynolds on the survival of a, [248]
• Buttonholes, exaggerated on uniforms, [40]
• — knotched, [146]
• — laced, [146]
• — on the backs of coats, [27], [27], [28], [28]
• Buttons, [24], [248]
• — antiquity of, [120]
• — as chronicles, [25]
• — done up differently by men and women, [21], [23]
• — horizontal row of, on sleeve, [36], [36]
• — meaningless, on ladies’ dresses, [120]
• — numerous, on sleeve of undervest, [38]; Plate [IV], facing page 38
• — of brass on Dutch skeleton dress, [145], [145]
• — — Legion of Honour, [158]
• — — man’s coat on right side, [20], [20]
• — — page boys, [144], [145]
• — — woman’s coat on left side, [20], [21]
• — on coats of Grenadier Guards, [29]
• — — cuffs, [35], [35]
• — — overcoats of Commissionaires, [30]
• — — postilion’s jackets, [38]
• — — sleeves of clergy, [36]
• — — the back of coats, [26], [26], [27], [28], [29], [31], [32], [33], [34]
• — — the back of tramway driver’s coats, [30], [31]
• — problematical, [15]
• Buttons replaced by knobs in the East, [20]
• — vertical row on sleeve, [37]

• Calthrop, Mr., on survivals of the chaperon, [158]
• — — — the costume of Harlequin, [283]
• — — — — evolution of the cockade, [156]
• — — — — origin of the cockade, [159]
• Camels, cowry shells on the trappings of, [297], [299]
• Cameron Erracht tartan, [242]
• — tartan, [242]
• Canaries, yellow, [303]
• Cane of drill sergeant, [241]
• Canes, be-ribboned, [124]
• — tasselled, [125]
• Cannibalism, probable origin of, [337]
• Canterbury Cathedral, shield, helmet, and surcoat of Black Prince in, [87], [88], [89]
• Cantlie, Dr., on short jackets, [356]
• — — — the effect of insufficient clothing, [355], [357]
• — — — — use of belts, [356]
• Cap, college, [47], [169], [212], [214]
• — Hungarian, [238]
• — judge’s sentence, [217]
• — line of Lancers, [241]
• — livery, [146]
• — of Beefeaters, [168]
• — — dignity, ecclesiastical, [213]
• — — housemaid, [149]
• — — Hungarian peasant, [59], [59]
• — — nuns, [201], [203], [204]
• — — the Lancers, a Polish head-dress, [239]
• — Scotch, streamers of, [53], [54]
• — statute, [168], [348]
• — Tudor flat, [214]
• Cape, combined with hood, [156], [157]
• Caps not to be worn by married women, [350]
• Cards, playing, show Tudor dresses, [231]
• Carolines, haircombs of West, [118]
• Cases of brass for waiters’ buttons, [144]
• Cassock, [200]
• — of Benedictines, [198]
• — once generally worn, [186]
• Casula, forerunner of the chasuble, [192]
• Cater cap, [212]
• Cattle, hornless, [303]
• Cavalryman, modern, compared with Cromwell’s Ironsides, [237], [237]
• Cave men, drawings of, [8], [9], [10]
• — — painting of the body by, [270]
• — — wore ornaments but no clothing, [8]
• Ceremony, primitive dress worn on occasions of, [5], [135]
• Chaco of Highland Light Infantry, [241]
• — — Scottish Rifles, [241]
• Chain mail, [233], [234], [234]
• Chains for the neck in Richard II’s time, [113]
• — of Mayors, origin of, [113]
• Chancellor of a University, robes of a, [210]
• Chapel keeper at Wellington Barracks, top hat of, [248]
• Chaperon, [152]
• — development of, [156], [157], [157]
• — of Richard II’s time, [157]
• — survival of, [228]
• — vestige on gowns of City Livery Companies, [231]
• — — — mantles of knights, [158], [230]
• Chaplet of flowers used after baptism, [164]
• Charles I regulates clerical costume, [185]
• — II, formation of Guards by, [246]
• Chasuble, [193], [194]
• — casula, the forerunner of, [192]
• Chauffeurs’ cockades, [160]
• Checks, [311]
• Chemise, [288]
• — gauze, of Merveilleuses, [346]
• Chevasse, Mr., on individuality shown by clothes, [316]
• Children carried on the left arm, [22]
• — dressed like their parents, [162]
• — sucking the left breast, [24]
• Chimere, [199]
• Chimpanzee, hair of, [6]
• China, painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in, [274]
• — puppet-show in, [259]
• — the use of paint by women in, [275]
• Chin band, [201], [202], [203]
• Chinese women, stunted foot of, [335]
• Chinook Indians, deforming the heads of children, [335]
• Chiton, [187]
• Choker, [200]
• Choristers at Jesus College, Cambridge, bands of, [45], [45]
• Chrism cloth, [164]
• Christians, dress of ancient, [187]
• — early, wore the same costume at worship as at home, [189]
• Christ’s Hospital, [167]
• Chrysalis, [163]
• Chrysolite as a detector of poison, [124]
• Chrysome, [164]
• — brasses, [164]
• Chulos in bull fight, red rag of, [306]
• Churches, Gothic, compared with hennin-like head-dress, [50], [51]
• Clans, tartans of Scotch, [312]
• — with several tartans, [312]
• Claremont, Mr., on opals and bad luck, [124]
• Clark, Professor E. C., on college caps, [213]
• Clavi, [191]
• Clement, St., on special dress for worship, [205]
• Clergy, adoption of vestments by English High Church, [192]
• — black habit of, [308]
• — buttons on sleeves of, [36]
• — condemnation of dress by, [344]
• — criticized for gorgeous apparel, [345]
• — in Holland, dresses of, [200]
• — wear academical hood over surplice, [199], [212]
• Cloaks, deer skin, of Bronze Age people, retaining horns, [117]
• Clock, meaning a gusset, [68], [68]
• — origin of, [68]
• Clocks of clowns, [269]
• Cloth, breast, [202], [203]
• — chrism, [164]
• — pied, [313]
• — parti-coloured, [313]
• Clothes, adopted for æsthetic reasons, [14]
• — — — reasons of coquetry, [14]
• — adoption of, for ornamentation, [8]
• — — — — reasons of modesty, [8]
• — — — — warmth, [8]
• — dispensed with on ceremonial occasions, [136]
• — distortions caused by, [322]
• — effect upon action, [341]
• — — of, upon the outsider, [315]
• — everyday, worn at night, [287]
• — first worn by women, [12]
• — in their development subject to the same laws that act upon the bodies of animals, [362]
• — made from the bark of trees, [11]
• — mental effect of, [339]
• — minimum of, worn at sports, [6]
• — not necessarily worn in cold climates, [11]
• — — worn at night, [287]
• — of animal actors, [301]
• — — dolls, [137]
• — — monkeys, [301]
• — — Punch, origin of, [257]
• — represented among animals, [291]
• — Sunday, [205]
• — swaddling, [163]
• — the principles of evolution applied to, [1]
• — used to alter the shape of the body, [337]
• — useful characters always retained, [15]
• — why worn, [8]
• — worn at executions, become unfashionable, [353]
• (See also under the headings of Costume and Dress)
• Clothing, not worn by cave men, [8]
• — preferences of girls for different articles of, [340], [341]
• Clown, [283]
• — clocks of, [269]
• Clowns, painting of, likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, [276]
• — paint of face of, [269]
• Clubbed hair, [134]
• Coachman, coat of, [142], [142]
• — Lord Mayor’s, wig-bag of, [143], [143]
• — origin of dress, [139]
• — red coat of royal, [235]
• — wig of, [132], [142], [142]
• Coastguard, revers of, buttoned back, [39]
• Coat, blue in sixteenth century, [168]
• — buff, [235]
• — development of the modern, [15]
• — evolved from the shawl, [16]
• — lapels, nicks in, [41], [41], [42]
• — patched, of harlequin, [283]
• — pouter, [141], [141]
• — red, a best, [235]
• — — origin of, [249]
• — — survived for a long time in Cornwall, [235]
• — skirts buttoned back for riding, [33]
• — swallow-tail, evolution of, [33], [34]
• Coats at Harrow, [169]
• — — Westminster, [169]
• — of arms, [83]
• — — Scottish Archers, [226]
• Coats, waterproof of, lambs, [300]
• Cobbett, criticisms on Quakers, [119]
• Cock of a hat, [61]
• Cockade, [61], [152], [152]
• — black, [153]
• — bow of ribbon on, [156]
• — evolution of, [153], [156], [157]
• — for mourning, [154], [154], [159]
• — jagged edges of, [158]
• — material of, [154]
• — of Chelsea pensioners, [155], [156]
• — — Danish ambassadors, [160]
• — — French ambassadors, [160]
• — — of various colours, [158]
• — regent, [155], [156], [159]
• — royal, [154], [155], [155], [159]
• — treble, [152], [156]
• Cockades, not under the jurisdiction of Heralds’ College or Lord Chamberlain, [153]
• — of foreign ambassadors, [160]
• — — chauffeurs, [160]
• — those entitled to use, [153], [159]
• — worn by gentlemen, [152]
• Cocking, [200]
• Coffins, Bronze Age, [18]
• Coif of Serjeant-at-law, [216]
• — Order of the, [215]
• — vestige of, [215], [217]
• Coin, custom of breaking, upon engagement, [115]
• Coldstream Regiment, motto of, [246]
• Collar, broad lace, at Eton, [169]
• — silver worn by additional drummer, [244]
• Collars, high, keep the head at a wrong angle, [356]
• — metal of Padaung women, [114]; Plate [VI], facing page 114
• — of Court ushers and vergers, [218]
• — — ladies’ mantles standing up, [48]
• — — nuns, [202]
• — worn by pet animals, [298]
• Colobium sindonis, [221]
• Colonial, dress of the, [319]
• Colour, craving for, shown by the gorgeous dress of Masons, [308]
• — — — — — green scarfs of the Foresters, [308]
• — — — — — pageants, [306]
• — of academical dress, [309]
• Colours, [192]
• — gay uniforms come under the category of courtship, [250]
• — heraldic, derived from flags, still worn, [308]
• — house, [171]
• — of ancient drawings due to caprice of artists, [131]
• — — Naval uniform, [251]
• — — regiments, [309]
• Columbine, ballet dress of, [285]
• Comb as an ornament, [117], [118]
• Combs, hair, [118], [118]
• — loom, the origin of the ornamental comb, [117], [118]
• Combination garments of boiler cleaners, [320]
• — — — Normans, [320]
• Coombe Hill School, Westerham, dress worn by girls at, [172], [172]
• Commissionaires, buttons on overcoats of, [30]
• Companies, Livery, robes of, [138]
• Complexions, false, of Roman ladies, [278]
• Convicts’ dress, [91]
• Cope, [197], [199]
• — of fifteenth century, [212]
• Cornish, Mr. C. J., on animals’ clothes, [300]
• Corps piqué, Montaigne and Ambrose Paré on the suffering caused by the, [325]
• Corroboree, paint used at a, [272]
• Corset, misspelling of the word, [323]
• — of Greece, [328]
• — — Rome, [328]
• Corsets, crusade against, [325]
• Cosmetics used by Roman ladies, [278]
• Costermongers, dress of, [319]
• — trousers of, show progress of wearer’s courtship, [347]
• Costume, clerical, regulated by Charles I, [185]
• — connected with religion, [184]
• — ecclesiastical, similar to civil in early times, [188]
• — of barge-women, [110]
• — — the clown, Elizabethan, [269], [270]
• — — dolls, [267]
• — — milk-women, [110]
• — — nuns and abbesses resembled that of widows, [198]
• — — servants’, derived from that of masters, [139]
• — indicating the profession of the wearer, [316]
• Costumes adopted in girls’ schools, [171]
• — of hospitals for pensioners, [170]
• — ugliness of bloomers, [81], [360]
• (See also under the headings of Clothes and Dress)
• Coulton, Mr. G. C., on the evolution of the maniple from a pocket-handkerchief, [194]
• Courier bags carried on a baldric, [106], [107]
• Court dress, mistakes made in, [227]
• — ushers, collars of, [218]
• Coventry, Lady, death due to painting the face, [279]
• Cowboy’s long hair, [127]
• Cows, clothing of, [300]
• — rainproof jackets of, [300]
• Cradle of American Indian papoose, [164]
• Cranmer, hat of, [214]
• Crescent as an amulet among the Romans, [293]
• — made by joining two boars’ tusks, [294]
• — worn on a special strap by German horses, [295]
• Crest and badge, difference between, [90]
• — — surcoat of Henry Duke of Lancaster, [86], [86]
• — on helmet, [83]
• — — signet ring, [85]
• — worn upon cap of Lord Mayor’s postilion, [92], [92]
• Creel carried on a baldric, [106]
• Crinoline, [337]
• — devised to hide the shape of a princess, [344]
• — of the young women of Otaheite, [338]
• Croft School, Betley, dress worn by girls at, [173], [173]
• Crombie, Mr. James, on superstitions connected with weddings, [176]
• Crook, shepherd’s, [195]
• Crosier, [221]
• Cross of nuns, [202]
• — older than Christianity, [122]
• Cross-belt of Rifle Brigade, [242]
• Crown, [158], [221]
• — bridal, [180]
• — Tudor, superseded that of St. Edward, [224], [224]
• Crusaders, [344]
• Cuff, turned back, [35], [36], [37], [38]
• Cuffs, [35]
• — of widow, [183]
• — white lawn, used as mourning by King’s Counsel, [220]
• — worn by the legal profession as part of mourning, [183]
• Cuirass of Household troops, [233]
• Culloden, battle of, [249]
• Currencies carried on the person, [113]
• — ornaments as, [112]
• Cussan’s “Handbook of Heraldry,” [159]
• Custom of breaking a coin upon engagement, [115]

• Dalmatic, [190], [195], [221]
• — compared with a shirt, [288]
• — of Bishop, fringes on, [190]
• — — deacon, fringes on left side only, [191]
• — symbolism of fringes, [191]
• Damascus, damask takes its name from, [313]
• Damask takes its name from Damascus, [313]
• Dane, dress of the, [319]
• Darnley, Lord, breeches of, [286]
• Darwin, Charles, on the loss of hair by man, [7]
• — — theory of evolution, [2]
• — Sir George, on buttons, [30]
• — — — — evolution in dress, [3]
• — — — — the origin of busbies, [58], [59]
• — — — — top boots, [65], [65]
• — — — — why plumes are on the left side, [58], [58]
• D’Aubernoun, Sir John, brass of, showing chain-mail, [234]
• David, shield of, [293]
• Dawkins, Professor Boyd, on the origin of the hair comb, [117]
• Deacons, stoles of, [192]
• Deaths due to painting the face, [279]
• Decoys, dogs dressed as duck, [301]
• Deformities caused by bandaging infants, [164]
• Demeter, [297]
• Denmark, dress of Bronze Age chieftains, [18], [19]
• Depression in a judge’s wig, [215], [216]
• Diamond, supposed powers of the, [124]
• Diamonds, always fashionable, [123]
• Diaper appeared in reign of Henry II, [313]
• — derived from D’Ypres, [313]
• Dinners, handkerchief used for wrapping, [195]
• Diodorus on the plaid of, [312]
• Distortion of the head, [336]
• Divorce, Bedouin form of, [178]
• Djibah, [172], [173]
• Doctor in the Punch and Judy show, [263], [264]
• — of Divinity, scarf of, [192]
• — round cap of, [213]
• Dogs, dress of, as duck decoys, [301]
• — hairless, [303]
• Dolls, clothes of, [137]
• — costume, [267]
• — in swaddling clothes, Mr. Edward Lovett on, [268]
• Dolman of the Hussars, [81], [239]
• Donkeys, cowry shells on trappings of, [297]
• Drawings of cave men, [8], [9], [10]
• Dress, academical, [208]
• — — Druitt on, [210]
• — bridal, [175]
• — characteristic of trades, [320]
• — children’s, Dr. Alice Vickery on, [165]
• — colour in academical, [309]
• — condemnation of, by the clergy, [344]
• — Court, [226]
• — — mistakes made in, [227]
• — does not usually show rank, [319]
• — Dutch skeleton, [145], [145]
• — evening, black and white, [308]
• — — suggests correct behaviour, [340]
• — Highland, [162]
• — League, Rational, [354]
• — monastic, [198]
• — more primitive, worn on occasions of ceremony, [135]
• — naval, supposed survivals in, [252]
• — of acrobats, [286]
• — — ancient Christians, [187]
• — — animals, [291]
• — — beadles, [147], [262], [264]
• — — coachmen, origin of, [139]
• — — convicts, [91]
• — — costermongers, [319]
• — — footmen, origin of, [139]
• — — girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham, [171], [172]
• — — — — the Croft School, Betley, [173], [173]
• — — grooms, origin of, [139]
• — — harlequins, [283]
• — — heads of churches in Scotland, [200]
• — — jockeys, coloured, [147]
• — — King’s Counsel, [218]
• — — Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, [321]
• — — monks, [201]
• — — Mrs. Bloomer, [81], [361]
• Dress of Norwegian bride, [180]
• — — nuns, [201], [203]
• — — particular trades, [149]
• — — peasants, gay, [309]
• — — Punch and Judy, [137], [253]
• — — Romans, [187]
• — — servants, [139]
• — — the American, [318]
• — — — Austrian, [318]
• — — — Colonial, [319]
• — — — Dane, [319]
• — — — Frenchman, [318]
• — — — German, [318]
• — — — Hungarian, [318]
• — — — Norwegian, [319]
• — — — Spaniard, [318]
• — — St. Nicholas, [137]
• — — soldiers previous to the Restoration, [236]
• — — Yeomen of the Guard, [223], [225]
• — once indicated rank, [319]
• — origin of, [6]
• — parti-coloured, came into fashion in Edward II’s time, [313]
• — profession often not indicated by, [315]
• — rank indicated in certain professions by, [320]
• — rational, [81], [361]
• — reform, [354]
• — simplification of Court, [226]
• — special, for worship, [205]
• — tax on elegant, [350]
• — to be according to station, [350]
• — ugliness of evening, [208]
• — Union, Healthy and Artistic, [354]
• — used in special occupations, [320]
• Dresses, bridal, often survivals, [180]
• — special school, [168]
• — with trains to be kept for ceremonial occasions, [358]
• Dressing-gowns, [138], [358]
• Drops for ears, [112]
• Druitt, Mr., on academical dress, [210]
• — — — boys dressed in petticoats, [165]
• — — — the coif, [216]
• Drummer, extra of Third Hussars, [244]
• Dutch settler’s wife, Miss Alice Morse Earle on the dress of, [359]
• — skeleton dress, [145], [145], [272]
• Dyes for tartans obtained from native plants, [313]