The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

by Wilfred Mark Webb

• Eagles on coronation robe, [222]
• Ear drops, [112]
• Ears, perforated for rings, [112]
• Earle, Miss Alice Morse, on the costume of the wife of a Dutch settler, [359]
• Eckenstein, Miss Lina, on horse brasses, [293]
• Edward II, beard of, [130]
• — III, badge of, [91]
• — — beard of, [129]
• — IV, beard of, closely shaven, [130]
• — VII, robes worn at the coronation of, [222]
• Egypt, finger rings in, [114]
• Egyptian graves, models of servants put into, [268]
• — pins, [105]
• — rings of blue pottery, [116]
• Egyptians, ancient, bury amulets with their dead, [122]
• — blackening eyelids, [270]
• — early, tattooing practised by, [277]
• — modern, tattooing practised by, [277]
• — prehistoric, beads of, [112]
• Elizabeth, statute cap of, [168]
• — Queen, stocking of, [68]
• Elizabeth’s coronation glove, stitching carried on to the back of, [97], [98]
• — reign, ruffs of, [48]
• Elsyng, brass in church at, [86], [86]
• Elves’ arrows as pendants, [123]
• Elworthy, Mr., on horns of honour, [117]
• Embroidery carried on to the backs of gloves, [98], [99]
• Emeralds always fashionable, [123]
• Epaulettes, [238]
• — worn by the Gentlemen-at-Arms, [238]
• — — — officers of the Yeomen of the Guard, [238]
• — — — the Lords-Lieutenant of Counties, [238]
• — — in the Navy, [238]
• Ermine, [222]
• — bands of, indicate rank, [223]
• Eskimos descendants of the cave men, [10]
• — shoes, piece of old, worn by, to ensure fruitfulness, [178]
• Essex, fish-hooks made of thorns in, [125]
• Eton, gowns worn by scholars at, [169]
• — jacket, [169]
• — white tie at, [169]
• Etruscan brooch, safety-pin like an, [102], [103]
• Eutropius, St., ceremony of garters, [71]
• Evolution, the principles applied to clothes, [1]
• Ewart, Sergeant, captures a French eagle, [245]
• Eyelashes, removal of, [128]
• — lid, blackening of, by Egyptians, [270]
• — sacred on rings, [117]
• — stone or opal, [124]
• — third in slow worm, [3]
• Executions, clothes worn at, become unfashionable, [353]

• Face plate of horse, amulets on, [294]
• — sooty, of harlequin, [283]
• Facings, regimental, abolished in 1881, [238]
• — why a different colour from that of the coat, [34]
• Fairholt on bandaged stockings, [67], [67]
• — — the origin of the mortar-board, [214]
• Fans called sunshades, [280]
• — for blowing up a fire, [280]
• — origin of, [280]
• Farces, Atella, celebrated for Italian, [254]
• Farthingale, [337]
• Fashion determines the amount of the body which is to be covered, [14]
• Fashions due to royal peculiarities, [131]
• — gay, follow periods of depression, [345]
• — in hair arrangement, [126]
• — kept up by superstitions, [349]
• — origin of, difficult to trace, [354]
• — the killing of, [352]
• Favours, [192]
• Fawkes, Guy, [225]
• Feathers, objections to the wearing of, [121]
• — of birds of paradise, [121]
• — — ostriches, [122]
• — peacocks’, unlucky because of eyes, [124]
• — wearing of, [121]
• Ficorroni, [258]
• Field-Marshal’s baton, [223]
• Fillet, [175]
• — forerunner of the hatband, [52], [52]
• — head, [149]
• — vestiges of, [52], [52]
• Finn, Huckleberry, [341]
• — Mrs., on bells derived from flowers, [314]
• Fireman, helmet of, [60], [60]
• — private, badge of, [91]
• Fisher folk, barefooted, [334]
• Fish, gold, with several tails, [303]
• — hook made of a thorn in Essex, [125]
• Fitzroy, General, [244]
• Flaccus, Dr. Louis W., on the effect of clothes on the minds of school-girls, [339], [340]
• — — — — — — preference of girls for different articles of clothing, [340], [341]
• Flags, heraldic colours of, still worn as favours, [308]
• Flap, red, on busby, [59], [59]
• Flash on Court dress, [228], [229]
• — of Welsh Fusiliers, [133], [134], [241]
• Fleshings, pink, of Merveilleuses, [346]
• Fleur-de-lys, [222], [293]
• — on braid of drummers of the Guards, [246]
• — removed from royal arms, [246]
• Flower, Sir William, on deforming of the foot, [334]
• — — — — injuries caused by tight lacing, [324]
• — — — — the most highly evolved foot, [333]
• Flowers, chaplet of, used after baptism, [164]
• — wearing of, [121]
• — worn at Eton on Fourth of June, [171]
• — — by a bride, [175]
• Folds of robes used as pockets by Arabs, [110]
• Foot, deforming of the, [334]
• — gear, early, [62]
• — Guards, drum-major’s livery cap, [146]
• — Sir William Flower on deforming of the, [334]
• — — — — — the most highly evolved, [333]
• — stunted, of Chinese woman, [335]
• — the ideal in art, [333], [334]
• Footman, [140], [141], [149]
• — origin of dress, [139]
• Footmen, aiguillettes worn by, [240]
• — flaps of, [32], [33]
• — wig of, [132]
• — with powdered hair, [131]
• Fourchettes of gloves, [97], [98]
• Fourragère, [241]
• Fowls, top-knotted, [303]
• Fox-hunters, red coat of, [235]
• Frenchman, dress of, [318]
• Frills, [227]
• Fringe of a shawl, origin of, [16]
• Fringes, Mr. Macalister on symbolism of, on dalmatics, [191]
• Frock coat, [148]
• Frontal of nun, [203], [204]
• Fruitfulness, superstitious practices to ensure, [179], [180]
• Funerals, horse trappings still used at, [292]
• — painted pasteboard figures burnt in China at, [274]
• Fur, [11]
• — use of, in the army, [247]
• Fusiliers, Welsh, flash of, [133], [134]
• Fylfot, [122]; see Plate [VII], Fig. F, facing page 129

• Gagging, art of, not modern, [254]
• Gaiters, [70]
• Garlands, wearing of, signifies virginity, [180]
• Garment, new, put on over old, [148]
• Garments, dislike of divided, [359]
• — flowing, give an elegant effect, [137], [357]
• — — — dignity, [187], [357]
• — long, of Noah’s Ark figures, [268]
• Garter, [158]
• Garters as insignia, [71]
• — golden, of Merveilleuses, [346]
• — of girls, annual ceremony in Haute-Vienne, [71]
• — ornamental, [71]
• Gatty, Sir Alfred Scott, on cockades, [153]
• Gauntlets worn by masons, [232]
• Gentleman of George III’s time, [141], [143]
• George II’s reign, coachman, coat of, [142], [142]
• — — on naval uniform, [251]
• — III, black coats at Eton, mourning for, [169]
• — — gentleman’s dress, [141], [143]
• — III’s reign, the pouter coat of, [141]
• German, dress of the, [318]
• Germs of disease disseminated by trailing skirts, [358]
• Giangurgolo, Calabrian, 1731, [257], [257]
• Gimmal rings, [115]
• Girdle, [73]
• — of judge, [217]
• Girl catching an object in her lap, [341]
• Girls, colour preferences of, [307]
• — in factories, barefooted, [334]
• — wearing their hair down, [166]
• Gladstone, Mr., abolished the serjeants-at-law, [217]
• Gloucestershire regiment, badges of, [245]
• Glove of Anne, Consort of James I, [98], [99]
• — stitching carried on to the back of Elizabeth’s coronation, [97], [98]
• — — — down the back of, [97], [98]
• Gloves, [94], [195]
• — early, without fingers, [94]
• — embroidery carried on to the backs of, [98], [99]
• — fourchettes of, [97], [98]
• — not worn by nuns, [204]
• — points on, [96], [98]
• — with two thumbs in Iceland, [95]
• God, solar, of Egypt, [123]
• Gold dust put on the head, [131]
• Golfers, red coat of, [235]
• Gordon, Miss Helen, on painting used in the time of Queen Anne, [279]
• Gorget the badge of an officer on duty, [235]
• Gorilla, hair of, [6]
• Gown, [18]
• — black, [185]
• — Geneva, bands worn with, [44]
• — of judge, [217]
• — — King’s Counsel, [218]
• — — Master of Arts, [210]
• — — Oxford Undergraduates, [210]
• Gowns, black, legal mourning for Queen Mary II, [218]
• — worn by scholars at Eton, [169]
• Greek betrothal rings, [115]
• Gremial, [202]
• Grenadier, caps of Scots Greys, [244]
• Greys, Scots, [245]
• Grenadier Guards, [248]
• Groom, [140]
• — origin of belt, [139]
• — — — dress, [139]
• Guards, drummers of, fleur-de-lys on braid of, [246]
• — formation of, by Charles II, [246]
• — Grenadier, [248]
• — — buttons on coats of, [29]
• — Irish, [248]
• — Life and Horse, survival of cord for priming powder horn, [108]
• — Scots, [248]
• — white jackets of, [243]
• Guignol, [255]
• — French punch, [257]
• — the name derived from Giangurgolo, [257]
• Guild liveries, [232]
• Guinea, New, women wear no clothes, [9]

• Habit, black of clergy, [308]
• Habits, monastic, [198]
• Hackle feathers of Northumberland Fusiliers, [244]
• Hair, clubbed, [134]
• — curly, imitated, [130]
• — dedication of, [128]
• — dishevelling of, as mourning, [181]
• — down, girls wearing their, [166]
• — early man covered with, [6]
• — great value attached to a profuse head of, [128]
• — long, not necessarily effeminate, [127]
• — not correlated with cold climate, [6]
• — of women dressed differently from that of men, [128]
• — powder, [131]
• — — coloured, [131]
• — putting up of, by girls, [166]
• — queued, [134]
• — Roman modes of doing the, [132]; Plate [VII], facing page 129
• — use of others, [130]
• Halberds of Yeomen of the Guard, [225]
• Handkerchief in general use in Henry VIII’s time, [195]
• — used for wrapping up dinners, [195]
• — — — — — presents, [195]
• Hanover, cockade of House of, [153]
• Harem, [13]
• Harlequin, [261], [267]
• — coat of, worn by the Lord of Montbron, [283]
• — modern dress of, [283], [284]
• — origin of the character, [282]
• — patched coat of, [283]
• — shaven head of, [283]
• — sooty face of, [283]
• — wand of, [283]
• Harlequinade, [269], [282]
• Harlequinne, [285]
• Harrow, coats at, [169]
• — swallow tails at, [170]
• Hat band, [52]
• — — origin of, [52]
• — cocked, development of, [60], [60]
• — Cranmer’s, [214], [214]
• — for hunting with lacing, [56], [56]
• — how made from a disc of material [57], [57]
• — of a bishop of the Stuart period, [214], [214]
• — sailor, streamers of, [53], [53]
• — tall, used in the Army, [248]
• Hats with the underside painted green, [271]
• — women in church without, [206]
• Haweis, Mrs., dressing to suit her surroundings, [310]
• Hawaiian Islands, hut of, [49]
• Haybands forerunners of leg bandages, [67]
• Head, distortion of, [336]
• Head-dress of French lawyer, [158]
• — — — Henry II’s reign surviving in that of nuns, [201], [203]
• — — shawl as a, [61]
• — — Siamese, compared with a Votive Spire, [50], [51]
• — shaven, of harlequin, [283]
• — shaving, [127]
• — strap, [203]
• Heads, deforming of children’s, by Chinook Indians, [335]
• Hearse cloths, [232]
• Heart-shaped amulets, [295], [296], [296]
• Hector the horse extinct in Punch and Judy show, [267]
• Helmet of Black Prince, [87], [88]
• — fireman’s, [60], [60]
• — plate, [158]
• Helmets, metal, [60]
• Henna used for staining fingers and toes by Egyptians, [271]
• Henry VIII’s reign, handkerchief came into general use in, [195]
• Heppel, Mr. George, on Punch and Judy, [253]
• — — — — figures worked by wires, [255]
• Heraldry, Handbook of, by Cussan, [159]
• Heralds, tabards of, [83]
• Hereditary badges, [90]
• Hide, raw, shoe made of, [64], [64]
• Highland corps, white jackets of, [243]
• — dress, [162]
• Hindu ayahs, nose rings of, [111]
• — women, painting of the feet scarlet by, [273]
• — — teeth blackened by, [273]
• Hodgson, Miss, uses a doll to show costume, [174]
• Hogarth’s engravings of children, [162]
• Holland, dress of clergy in, [200]
• Holy Land, swaddling clothes persist in, [163], [333]
• Hood, [198]
• — academical, [210]
• — — wearing of, by clergymen, [199], [212]
• — combined with cape, [156], [156], [157]
• — enlargement of the peak, [156], [157]
• — of a Knight of the Garter, [229], [230]
• — — Bachelor of Arts, [212]
• — — nuns, [202], [203]
• — — the Order of the Thistle, [230]
• — — — — — St. Patrick, [230]
• — — undergraduates, liripipe of, [211]
• — peak of prolonged, to form liripipe, [157]
• — tiny, on barrister’s gown, [218], [219]
• Horn for priming powder, survival of cords for suspending, [108]
• Horns of honour, [117]
• Horse amulets, [293], [294], [294], [295], [296]
• — clothing, [292]
• — brass, crescent shaped, derived from boar’s tusks, [294], [294]
• — brasses, English, the counterpart of those shown on Trajan’s column, [295]
• — — Dr. Plowright on the origin of some, [293]
• — — Miss Lina Eckenstein on, [293]
• — — heraldic, [295]
• — identified as a corn spirit, [297]
• — trappings, [292]
• — — still used at funerals, [292]
• — white, of Hanover, [243]
• Horses, black, used at funerals, [303]
• — circus, [303]
• — grey, carry the kettledrums, [303]
• — hats of, [300]
• — killing of, at harvest time, [297]
• — sun-bonnets, [300]
• — white carry the kettledrums, [303]
• Hose, Florentine, [70], [286]
• — tights, a survival of Florentine, [286]
• — trunk, [269]
• — — of acrobat, [286]
• — — — clown, [269]
• — — — knights, [231]
• Household cavalry, bandsmen’s livery caps, [146]
• Housemaid, apron of, [149]
• — cap of, [149]
• Hounds, Dalmatian, as carriage dogs, [303]
• Howard of Effingham, hat of Lord, [248]
• Hump of Punch, back, [262], [263]
• — — — front, origin of, [253]
• Hungarian, dress of the, [318]
• — peasant’s cap, [59], [59]
• Huntsman, livery cap of, [146]
• Hussars, [59]
• — cowry shells on trappings of horses of, [297], [298]
• — dolman of, [81], [239]
• — Eighth, wear sword-belts over their shoulders, [243]
• — Eleventh, wear ivory-hilted swords, [244]
• — Fifteenth, wear Austrian imperial lace, [244]
• — lacing of, [146]
• — prickers on shoulder belt of, [239], [239]
• — sling jacket of, [81], [239]
• — Third, extra drummer of, [244]
• — uniform of, [272]
• Hut of Hawaiian Islands, [49]

• Iceland, glove with two thumbs, [95]
• India, lotus flowers on king’s mantle, symbolical of, [222]
• Indian Army, puttees of, [66]
• Infant, bib of, [167]
• — binder of, [163]
• Infants, deformities caused by bandaging, [164]
• — powdered, [162]
• — patched, [162]
• Inner Temple, badge of the porters of, [91]
• Ireland, pin-ring brooches in, [125]
• Irish Guards, [248]
• Ironside of Cromwell compared with a modern cavalryman, [237], [237]
• Italian women age rapidly, [329]

• Jacket, Cardigan, [18]
• — Eton, [169]
• — smoking, suggests relaxation, [340]
• Jackets, rainproof, for cows, [300]
• — white, of Guards, [243]
• — — — Highland corps, [243]
• Japan, use of paint by women in, [275]
• Japanese actors paint the face, [273]
• — children, painting the face of, [273]
• — women, teeth blackened by, on marriage, [273]
• Java, earliest man in, [7]. See [Frontispiece]
• Jerome, St., on special dress for worship, [205]
• Jesson, Mr. W. H., a performer of Punch and Judy, [262]
• Jesus College, Cambridge, choristers’ bands, [45], [45]
• Jewesses shave their heads, [127]
• Jews, [205]
• — rending their garments, [42]
• — tattooing practised by, [277]
• Joan the old name of Judy, [266]
• Jockey, livery cap of, [147]
• — parti-coloured dress of, [147], [313]
• Johanna, [301]
• Judge, girdle of, [217]
• — gown of, [217]
• — sentence cap of, [217]
• — wig of, [132], [216], [216]
• Judith, [267]
• Judy, dress of, [263]
• — apron of, [263]
• — mob cap of, [262], [263]
• — once known as Joan, [266]
• — origin of the name, [266]

• Kamarband worn by officers, [249]
• Kayans of Borneo, clothes of bark worn by, as mourning, [181]
• Kefiyeh fastened with a fillet of camel’s hair, [53]
• Kersey, [351]
• Kettledrums, silver, [244]
• Kilburn Sisters, [201], [202]
• Kilt of sailors, [252]
• — short, [76], [76]
• Kimono brought from Japan, [344]
• King’s Counsel, dress of, [218]
• — — gown of, [218]
• — — white lawn cuffs used as mourning by, [220]
• — footmen, red coats of, [235]
• Kirkudbrightshire, pin-ring brooches of blacksmiths in, [125]
• Knee-breeches worn when speeches are made at Eton, [170]
• Knickerbocker suits, jersey, [165]
• Knickerbockers, [80]
• — of blue-coat boys, [167]
• — a recognized feature of children’s costume, [163]
• Knights of the Garter, [229]
• — — — — chaperon on robes of, [158]
• — — St. Patrick, [229]
• — — the Thistle, [229]
• Knobs in the East take the place of buttons, [20]
• Kohl, [271]

• Label to difference arms, [86], [86], [88]
• Labourers’ method of buttoning trousers, [252]
• Lace, Austrian imperial, worn by Fifteenth Hussars, [244]
• Lacedæmonian girls, tunics of, slit down the sides, [346]
• Lacerna, [198]
• Laces, [100], [101]
• Lacing inside a hat, [55]
• — of Hussars, [146]
• — tight, banned by Charles IV and Henry III, [326]
• — — in England, [326]
• — — made compulsory by Catherine de Medici, [326]
• Ladies, armorial bearings on dresses of, [84], [85]
• — married with flowing tresses, [166]
• — wear pyjamas, [288]
• Lady gardeners at Kew wear trousers, [358]
• Lake dwellings, pins found in Swiss, [105]
• Lamb, Persian, used for making spots on miniver, [222]
• Lambs that supply the wool for the pallium, [196]
• — waterproof coats of, [300]
• Lancaster, Henry Duke of, crest and surcoat of, [86], [86]
• Lancers, [39]
• Lap, boys and girls catching objects in their, [341]
• Lawn sleeves of a bishop, [199]
• Laws for the good of trade, [348]
• Lawyer, head-dress of French, [158]
• Leech, caricatures the busbies of the Guards, [247]
• Leg bandages, [66], [66], [67]
• — — derived from haybands, [67]
• — — of pfiferari, [68]
• Leggings, survival of the wearing of skins, [70]
• Legion of Honour, buttons of, [158]
• Leicestershire Regiment, tiger-skin aprons of, [249]
• Leopards on Arms of England, [86]
• Life Guards, black plumes of farriers of, [242]
• — — — tunics of farriers of, [242]
• Light Infantry, Duke of Cornwall’s puggaree of, [243]
• Lindley, Lord, last surviving serjeant-at-law, [217]
• Linen, strip of, round head as mourning in Egypt, [182]
• — the showing of, [44]
• Lion spotted when young, [94]
• Lions on Arms of England, [86]
• Liripipe, [156], [157], [157], [210], [230]
• — of undergraduates’ hoods, [211]
• — peak of hood prolonged to form, [156], [156]
• Lip plugs, [111]
• Liveries of the City Companies, [231]
• Livery cap, [146]
• — — of bandsmen of the Household Cavalry, [146]
• — — — drum-major of the Foot Guards, [146]
• — — — jockeys, [147]
• — — — huntsmen, [146]
• — Companies, chaperon, vestige on gowns of, [231]
• — of page-boy, [145], [145]
• — — porters, [148]
• Locket, [122]
• Loom combs, [117], [118]
• Lord Mayor’s coachman, wig-bag of, [134], [143], [143]
• — — postilion, crest worn upon cap of, [92], [92]
• Lotus flowers symbolical of India, on Edward VII’s mantle, [222]
• Louis XVI, hair of, gave rise to wigs, [131]
• Louterell, Sir Geoffrey, figure showing armorial bearings, [84], [85]
• Lovett, Mr. Edward, on dolls in swaddling clothes, [268]
• — — — — origin of pin-ring brooches, [125]
• — — — — patterns derived from tattooing, [278]
• Lyman, Dr., explanation of buttons being differently arranged on the clothes of the two sexes, [22]

• Macalister, Mr., on fashions, [189]
• — — — symbolism of the fringes on dalmatics, [191]
• — — — the pallium, [196]
• — — — — surplice, [185]
• — — — there being no distinctive garments for the ministers, among early Christians, [190]
• Macphersons, tartan of the, [312]
• Magnin, M., on the origin of Punch’s hump, [261]
• Mail, chain, vestige of, on shoulder of Imperial Yeoman, [233], [233]
• — plate, [235]
• Malachite used for painting by prehistoric Egyptians, [271]
• Man cook, white clothes of, [320]
• — Isle of, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, [119]
• — once hairy, [7]. [Frontispiece]
• — skin of, originally reddish, [13]
• — primitive, [5]
• Manche, [146]
• Maniple, [221]
• — once a napkin, [194]
• Manning, Mrs., hung in a black satin dress, [353]
• Manservant, modern, [143]
• Mantle, imperial, [221]
• — of Edward VII, lotus flowers on, [222]
• — — Queen Victoria, roses on, [222]
• Mantles of ladies, collars standing up, [48]
• Maoris, tattooing of, [277]
• Mare, the last uncut ears of corn, [297]
• Marken, women of, floral designs on the bodice, [278]
• Market woman, sun-bonnet of, [61]
• Marines, Royal, mourning of, [243]
• Marionettes, [255]
• Marriage by capture, [175]
• Marriott, Mr., on the colour of early vestments, [190]
• Martingale of horse, amulets on, [294]
• Mask, unwritten laws that rule the wearing of, [281]
• Masks of the 5th of November a reminder of primitive face-painting, [280]
• — worn by savages, [280]
• Mason, Mr. Otis T., on pockets, [110]
• Masons, aprons of, [232]
• — insignia of, [231]
• Master, clothing of, becomes that of servant, [5], [152]
• Maud, [20]
• Maundy Thursday, [226]
• Mayhew, Mr. Henry, on Punch and Judy, [265]
• Medical officers, volunteer, wear cocked hats, [247]
• Men, colour preferences of, [307]
• Merveilleuses, [345], [345]
• Mess jacket of Somersetshire Light Infantry, [242]
• Meyer, Dr., on the padding of sleeves above the shoulder to prevent weapons from slipping off, [338]
• Mice, piebald, [302]
• Milk-women, apron of, [150]
• — — costume of, [110]
• — — with yokes, [110]
• Milton, bands of, [46]
• Mimes, Roman, [183], [282], [283]
• Mimi, [282]
• Miniver, [222]
• — rows of black spots on, indicate rank, [223]
• Mitten, open work, [99]
• Mittens and tattooing, [99]
• Mitre, [221]
• — strings of, [54], [54]
• Mizpah rings, [116]
• Mob cap worn by Judy, [262], [263]
• Modesty a habit, [12]
• — different ideas of, in various regions, [12]
• — ideas of, Arab women, [207]
• Molière introduces Punch into Le Malade Imaginaire, [261]
• Monk, General, [246]
• Monkeys, clothes of, [301]
• Monk, dress of, [201]
• — scapular of, [201]
• — tunic of, [201]
• Montbron, Lord of, harlequin’s coat worn by, [283]
• Montaigne on the sufferings caused by the corps piqué, [325]
• Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, and painting, [279]
• Montem at Eton, [171]
• Moore, Sir John, black worm as mourning for, [242]
• Mortar-board, [47], [169], [212], [214]
• Moseley, Professor, on face-painting in China, [273], [274], [275]; see Plate [X], fig. [C] facing p. 270
• — — — painting the body, [272]
• — — — the use of paint by women in Japan, [275]
• Mosque-like turban, [50], [50]
• Mourning bands of barristers, [219]
• — black as, [181]
• — black band on arm for, [182]
• — — worm for Sir John Moore as, [242]
• — clothes of bark worn by Kayans of Borneo as, [181]
• — cuffs worn by the legal profession as part of, [183]
• — dishevelling of hair as, [181]
• — for death of Nelson, [252]
• — — General Wolfe, black worm as, [242]
• — of Royal Marines, [243]
• — purple as, [182]
• — sackcloth as, [181]
• — strip of linen round head in Egypt as, [182]
• — white as, [182]
• — white lawn cuffs used by King’s Counsel as, [220]
• — yellow as, [182]
• Moustache, [129]
• Mules, cowry shells on trappings of, [297], [299]
• Mutes at children’s funerals, [182]

• Nail, horseshoe, as part of a pin-ring brooch, [125]
• Nakedness, effect of, destroyed by tattooing even in Europeans, [277]
• Napkin, [194], [195]
• Naval uniforms, [251]
• Navvies wear belts, [329]
• Neapolitan, the, as an actor, [254]
• Neck chains, [113]
• — — of Richard II’s time, [113]
• Nelson, mourning for death of, [252]
• Neuville, M. Lemercier de, on Punch’s stick, [260]
• Newcombe, Allan Poe, on hats and habitations, [49]
• Nicks in coat lapels, [41], [41], [42]
• Nightcap of man, [290], [290]
• — — woman, [289], [290]
• Nightcaps, elaboration of, restricted in the reign of Mary, [290]
• — of Tudors, [289]
• — still worn, [289]
• Night-dresses worn by ladies in the street in Anne’s reign, [290]
• Nightgown, the bands on a lady’s, [288], [289]
• Night rails, [290]
• Nightshirt cut like a day shirt, [288]
• Noah’s Ark figures, long garments of, [268]
• Norman chin-band, [201], [203]
• Normans closely shaved their beards, [129]
• — combination garments of, [320]
• — wore trousers, [79]
• Northumberland Fusiliers, hackle feathers of, [244]
• — — wear roses, [245]
• Norwegian, dress of the, [319]
• Nose rings of Hindu ayahs, [111]
• Novice, veil of, [202]
• Nuns, [201], [203]
• — aprons of, [202]
• — breast cloth of, [202], [203]
• — cap of, [202], [203], [204]
• — collar of, [202]
• — costume of, [198]
• — cross of, [202]
• — frontal of, [203], [204]
• — hood of, [202], [203]
• — not allowed to wear gloves, [204]
• — scapular of, [202]
• — veil of, [202], [203]
• — wear wedding-rings, [204]
• Nurse, hospital, uniform of, [150]
• Nurses, domestic, imitating hospital nurses’ dress, [150]