The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

by Wilfred Mark Webb

• O’Connor, Dr. Bernard, on bloomers, [361]
• — — — — woman’s dress for active exercises, [361]
• Officers, commanding, choice of uniform, [242], [243]
• — non-commissioned, stripes on sleeves of, [114]
• Opal, supposed powers of the, [124]
• Opals, always fashionable, [123]
• — and bad luck, [124]
• Openwork mittens, [99]
• — of Roman shoe, [62], [63]
• — stocking, [69], [69]
• Ophal, [124]
• Orange blossom, [180]
• Orang-utan, hair of, [6]
• Oraria, distribution of, by Aurelian, [192]
• Orarium, [191], [195]
• Order of the Coif, [216]
• Origin of fashions difficult to trace, [354]
• — — mayoral chains, [113]
• — — the clock, [68]
• Ornament, love of, among simple races, [8]
• Ornamentation of modern boots, [62], [63]
• — — — shoes, [62]
• Ornaments as currencies, [112]
• — of Stone Age, [112]
• — serve for identification, [10]
• — shells as, [112]
• — why they survive, [111]
• — worn even if there are little clothes, [9]; see Plate [II], facing page 9
• Orphrey, the apparel of the chasuble, [196]
• Ostrich feathers, [122]
• Oxford University, Chancellor of, hanging sleeve of, [210], [211]
• — — undergraduate’s gown, [210]
• Overcoat, [149]

• Pads in hair dressing, [131]
• Padding, [338]
• Page-boy, buttons of, [144], [145]
• — — livery of, [145], [145]
• Pageants, success of, a sign of the craving for colour, [306]
• Paint on face of clowns, [269]
• — use of, by women in Japan, [275]
• — — — — — — China, [275]
• — — — at a corroboree, [272]
• — — — in war to terrify, [273]
• Painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in China, [274]
• Painting, [13]
• — by native races, [272]
• — follows the bones of the body, [272]
• — of clowns likened to that once in vogue in China and Japan, [276]
• — — the body by cave men, [270]
• — practised by civilized men, [280]
• — the body among Andaman Islanders, [276]
• — — — Professor Moseley on, [272]
• — — eyes, practised by the prehistoric Egyptian, 6000 B.C., [271]
• — — face to hide the ravages of time, [278]
• — — — — heighten its beauty, [278]
• — — — deaths due to, [279]
• — — — of Japanese children, [273]
• — — — — — actors, [273]
• — — feet scarlet by Hindu women, [273]
• Palettes, slate, in the form of two birds in prehistoric Egypt, [295]
• — — of the New Race, [271]
• Pall, [197]
• — manufacture of, [196]
• Pallium, [195]
• — development of the, [196]
• Palmerston’s, Lord, broad-toed shoes, [335]
• Panache derived from the horn, [117]
• Pantaloon, [254], [261], [283], [285]
• — Elizabethan costume of, [269], [285], [285]
• Pantomimes, [269], [282]
• Pantomimi, [282]
• Papoose, swathing of American Indian, [164]
• Paré, Ambrose, on the suffering caused by the corps piqué, [325]
• Paris, waistbands, trade in, discarded, [348]
• Parliamentary officials, wigs of, [132]
• Parti-coloured dress of Athletic clubs, [313]
• — — — jockeys, [313]
• Patches indicating political views, [279]
• — of Charles I’s reign banned by the Puritans, [278]
• — reappear in Charles II’s reign, [279]
• Pattern, pine, origin of, [311]
• Patterns, breeches of chequered, worn by Gauls and early inhabitants of England, [311]
• Peasant dress, slight survivals in England, [150]; Plate [VII], facing page 150
• Pelisse obtained from Persia, [344]
• Pendants, [122]
• Pensioners, costumes of, [170]
• People, uncivilized, without pockets, [9]
• Persian women wear trousers, [81]
• Pet animals, collars worn by, [298]
• Perthshire, the bare feet of children in, [333]
• Petrie, Professor, on Romano-Egyptian portrait models, [132]
• — — — buttons in Egypt, [120]
• — — — the origin of a supposed shield-shaped ornament, [296]
• Petticoat at first not shaped, [73]
• — hooped, [337]
• Petticoats, lengthening of, [166]
• — of sailors, [252]
• — — small boys, [165]
• Pfiferari, cross gartering of, [68]
• — leg bandages of, [68]
• Phallic worship, [122]
• Pig-tail, grease of, [252]
• Pileus quadratus, [212]
• Pillion, [140]
• Pin, safety, [101], [118]
• — — in hat, [104], [104]
• — — — waistband, [103], [104]
• — — like an Etruscan brooch, [102], [103]
• — scarf, [118]
• Pinafore, [150]
• Pinafores now children’s dress, [167]
• Pin-money, [105]
• Pinner, [150]
• Pins, bronze, [105]
• — Egyptian, [105]
• — found in Swiss Lake dwellings, [105]
• — gold, [197]
• — made of thorns, [125]
• — of bone, [105]
• — ornamental, [106]
• — scarf, [106]
• Pithecanthropus erectus, [7]
• Plaid, [20], [187]
• — belted, [72]
• — shepherd’s, [312]
• Plaids, [311]
• Plastron of Hussars, [148]
• Plowright, Dr., on the Moorish origin of some horse brasses, [293]
• Plugs for lips, [111]
• Plumes, black, of farriers of Life Guards, [242]
• — why on left side, [58]
• Plush, [149]
• — breeches, [104], [141]
• Pocket flaps, vestiges of, [32], [33]
• Pockets, [109]
• — in the sleeves of a Corean, [110]
• — side, [30]
• — uncivilized people without, [9]
• Points, [98]
• — on gloves, [96], [98]
• Policeman’s coat, buttons on the back of, [26], [26]
• — uniform not worn by children, [163]
• Polly, Miss, in the Punch and Judy show, now extinct, [265]
• Polypus (= the octopus) changing colour, [206]
• Porters, livery of, [148]
• — railway, waistcoats of, [148]
• Portugal, Queen of, demonstrates the evils of tight-lacing by means of radiographs, [325]
• Postilions, buttons on jackets of, [38]
• — coats of His Majesty’s, [145]
• — of Lord Mayor, crest worn upon cap of, [92], [92]
• Postulant, veil of, [202]
• Poupée derived from pupa, [163]
• Pouter coat, [141], [141]
• Powder, [149]
• — for hair, [131]
• Prayer-book, first, of Edward V, ornaments, rubric of, upheld by Act of Uniformity, [199]
• — — second, of Edward VI, [199]
• — — vestments prescribed by the, first, of Edward VI, [198]
• Prickers on the shoulder-belt of a Hussar, [239], [239]
• Priest, [194]
• Profession indicated by costumes, [316]
• Puggaree of Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry, [243]
• Pulicinella, [254]
• — means a hen chicken, [264]
• — Oscan, of 1731, [256]
• Punch, [263]
• — a Roman mime, [183]
• — and Judy, dress of, [137]
• — — — show, beadle of, [147], [262], [264]
• — — — — doctor of, [263]
• — — — — Hector, the horse, extinct in, [267]
• — — — — Miss Polly, now extinct in, [265]
• — back hump of, [262], [263]
• — bronze statuette with face and features of, [258], [258]
• — figures worked by wires, [255]
• — front hump of, [253], [261]
• — gay clothes of, in France and England, [261]
• — in religious plays, [266]
• — introduced into Le Malade Imaginaire, by Molière, [261]
• — origin of clothes of, [257]
• — — —, hump of, [253], [261]
• — ruff of, [262], [263]
• — stick of, [260]
• — the behaviour of, changes, [264]
• — voice of, [264]
• Pupa, Greek name for a baby in swaddling clothes, [163]
• Puppet derived from pupa, [163]
• — show of fourteenth century, [259], [259]
• — shows in China, [259]
• Puritans and Quakers, fashions set by, [348]
• Purple as mourning, [182]
• Puttees, [66], [66], [328]
• — of Indian Army, [66]
• Pyjamas, [128]
• — worn by ladies, [288]
• Pym, John, bands of, [46], [46]

• Quakers refused to wear buttons, [119]
• Queued hair, [134]
• Quiver carried on a baldric, [106]

• Ra, [122]
• Rats, white, [302]
• Rank once indicated by dress, [319]
• — indicated by dress in certain professions, [320]
• — not usually shown by dress, [319]
• Ramillies, battle of, [244]
• Red cap of liberty, [306]
• — not universal in the British Army, [308]
• — rag of chulos in the bull fight, [306]
• — ribbon of engaged girl, [306]
• — rose of Lancaster, [306]
• — shirt of the followers of Garibaldi, [306]
• — tie of platelayer, [306]
• Regimental badges, [245]
• Revers buttoned back, [38], [39]
• Reynolds, Mr. P. W., on the survival of a button, [248]
• — — — — — — — — forage cords, [241]
• Rhead, Mr., on the festal dress of Otaheite, [338]
• Richard II’s time, chaperon of, [157]
• Rifle Brigade, busby of, [242]
• — — cross belt of, [242]
• Ring, [195]
• — for nose of Hindu ayahs, [111]
• — in Ireland, bearing clasped hands, [116]
• — of Bishop Agilbert of Paris, [114]
• Rings, betrothal of Greeks, [115]
• — — — Romans, [115]
• — engagement, [114]
• — Egyptian, of blue pottery of faïence, [116]
• — Episcopal, [114]
• — finger, in Babylon, [114]
• — — — Egypt, [114]
• — for ears, [112]
• — gimmal, [115]
• — in which the stones stand for letters, [116]
• — sacred eye on, [117]
• — signet, [83], [85]
• — — in Egypt, [114]
• — — suspended from the neck, [116]
• — used as an insignia of rank by Romans, [115]
• — wedding, [114]
• — — worn by nuns, [204]
• — why worn on third finger, [115]
• Robe, parliamentary, of the King, [222]
• — coronation, eagles on, [222]
• Robes of companies, [138]
• — — a chancellor of a university, [210]
• — — borough councillors, [138]
• — — the Barons of the Exchequer, [218]
• — worn on State occasions, [137]
• Robinson, Commander, on naval uniforms, [252]
• Robley, General, collection of Maori heads, [277]
• Rochet, [199], [221]
• Roman betrothal rings, [115]
• — d’Alexandre, MS. of, [259]
• Romans cut their beards, [129]
• — did not wear trousers, [77]
• — shoes of open work of, [62], [63]
• — tunic of, [191]
• — use rings as insignia of rank, [115]
• Roses on Queen Victoria’s mantle, [222]
• — worn by Northumberland Fusiliers, [245]
• — — — soldiers on St. George’s day, [245]
• Roy and Adami, Professors, on the beneficial use of waist belts and stays, [332]
• Royalty, fashions arising from deformities of, [344]
• Rubies always fashionable, [123]
• Ruff, Elizabethan, of Toby, [253]
• — of Toby, [263]
• — worn by Punch, [262], [263]
• Ruffles, [227]
• Ruffs of Elizabeth’s reign, [48], [351]
• Russia, boots of bridegrooms removed by brides in, [177]

• Sackcloth as mourning, [181]
• Safety-pin, [101], [102], [103], [104], [118]
• Sailor suit, [162]
• Sailors, European, tattooing practised by, [277]
• — kilt of, [252]
• — petticoat breeches of, [252]
• — petticoat of, [252]
• — trousers, method of buttoning, [252]
• St. Clement on women covering their heads in church, [205], [207]
• — George, cross of, [158]
• — Gregory the Great, costume of, [188], [188]
• — John of Jerusalem, dress of Knights of, [321]
• — Lucia, [244]
• — Nicholas, dress of, [137]
• — — figure of, shows old dress, [267]
• — Patrick, hood of the Order of, [230]
• Sapphires always fashionable, [123]
• Saragossa, battle of, [243]
• Sashes meant to be used as slings, [241]
• — of officers, [249]
• — worn over the left shoulder by sergeants of the Twenty-Ninth Foot, [249]
• Satchel carried on a baldric, [106]
• Savage, the female—a Merveilleuse dress, [346]
• Savages, colour preferences of, [307]
• Saxons parted or trimmed their beards, [129]
• — wore trousers, [79], [79]
• Scapular of nuns, [202]
• Scaramouch, [254], [261]
• — a pantomimist, [286]
• Scarf, [191], [199]
• — on ladies’ hats, [149]
• — pin, [106], [118]
• Scarves, [192]
• Sceptre, [221], [304]
• School, Blue-coat, [167]
• — Bristol Red-Maids, [168]
• — Wells Grey-Maids, [168]
• Schools, Green-coat, [168]
• — Grey-coat, [168]
• Scotland, dress of heads of churches in, [200]
• Scottish Rifles, chaco of, [241]
• Scots Greys, [245]
• — — take their name from their horses, [303]
• — — Grenadier, caps of, [244]
• — Guards, [248]
• Seal of Solomon, [293]
• Serapis, crown of, [117]
• Serjeant-at-law, Lord Lindley, last, [217]
• — coif of, [216]
• — robes of, [218]
• — wig of, [215]
• Sergeants of Twenty-Ninth Foot wear sashes over their left shoulders, [249]
• Servant, clothing of master becomes that of, [5], [139]
• Servants’ dress, [139]
• Sex idea, [165]
• “Shabbies,” [268]
• Shamrock, [222]
• Shapka, [239]
• Shaving carried out with flint knives or pieces of shell, [127]
• — of heads by Egyptians, [128]
• — — — — East End Jewesses, [127]
• — — the whole head, [127]
• Shawl, [16]
• — as a head-dress, [61]
• — the ancestral, [15]
• — used as kilt by Danish chieftain, [72], [73]
• Shells as ornaments, [112]
• — cowry, on trappings of camels, [297], [299]
• — — — — — donkeys, [297]
• — — — — — Hussars, [297], [298]
• — — — — — mules, [297], [299]
• Shepherd, plaid of, [312]
• Shield, [83]
• — heart-shaped, derived from a double bird, [296]
• — of Black Prince, [87], [89]
• — — David, [293]
• Shirt front, origin of the, [44]
• — survival of the, as an outer garment, [288]
• Shoe made from a flat piece of hide, [65]
• — money in Bulgaria, [177]
• — of raw hide, [64], [64]
• Shoes, broad toed, of Henry VIII’s reign, [335]
• — gift of, by bridegroom to bride, [177]
• — high heels of, [335]
• — old, thrown at weddings, [176]
• — ornamentation of modern, [62]
• — part of wages, [177]
• — pieces of old, worn by Eskimos to ensure fruitfulness, [178]
• — removed from dead bodies to lay ghosts, [178]
• — with preposterously long toes, [350]
• — thrown over the heads of the O’Neils by the O’Cahans, [177]
• — — to ensure fruitfulness, [177]
• Shoulder knot, use of, [238]
• Siamese women wear trousers, [81]; see Plate [V], facing p. 81
• Sicily, triskele in the coat-of-arms of, [119]
• Sign of the “Crooked Billet,” [146]
• Signs derived from Royal badges, [91]
• Silk, forbidden, [351]
• — stockings, [140], [141]
• Simkin, Mr. R., explanation of the flash, [133]
• Sisters, lay, [204]
• — Kilburn, [201], [202]
• — of Mercy, [201]
• Skeleton dress, Dutch, [145], [145]
• “Sketch, The,” on cockades, [158]
• Skirt, long, dangerous nowadays, [358]
• — — disseminates germs, [358]
• Skirts, short, a recognized feature of children’s costume, [163]
• — simple, of a Danish chieftainess, [73]
• — of lady gardeners damaged the plants, [358]
• Skull on head-dress of Hussars, [146]
• Skulls, bone inserted into prehistoric, [336]
• Sleeves, costume dated by, [210]
• — detachable, of nuns, [202]
• — hanging, [209], [209]
• — hanging, of a chancellor of Oxford University, [211]
• — slashed, prohibited, [350]
• — velvet, of a Proctor, [321]
• Sling jacket of the Hussars, [81], [239]
• Smock-frock, [18], [19]
• Socks, [66]
• Soldiers, armlets conferred on, [114]
• — boys dressed as, [163]
• — dress previous to the Restoration, [236]
• Solicitor of Guards, uniform of, [247]
• — — — cocked hat of, [247]
• Solomon, seal of, [293]
• Somersetshire Light Infantry, cavalry mess jacket of, [242]
• Soul remaining in shoes, [178]
• Spaniard, dress of the, [318]
• Spatterdashes, [70]
• Spencer, Herbert, on fashions, [343]
• Spire, Siamese head-dress compared with a votive, [50], [51]
• Sporran, [76], [77]
• Spur leathers, [235]
• Staff, cross, [195]
• — pastoral, [195]
• Star, [158]
• Statuette, bronze, of Punch, [258], [258]
• Statute cap of Elizabeth, [168]
• Stays, original intention of, [323]
• — Professors Roy and Adami on the beneficial use of, [332]
• — theory that they are derived from swaddling clothes, [332]
• Steen, Jan, bands of, [46], [46]
• Stick of camel driver survival of a sceptre, [304]
• Sticks, walking, [124]
• Stitching carried down the back of gloves, [97], [98]
• Stoat, [222]
• Stockings, [66], [195]
• — embroidered, [69], [69]
• — leather, worn by William Penn, [70]
• — of cloth, [68]
• — open work, [69], [69]
• — silk, [140], [141]
• — yellow, of blue-coat boys, [167]
• Stocks of leather, [200]
• Stole, [193], [221]
• Stoles of deacons, [192]
• Stone Age, ornaments of, [112]
• Stones, precious, fashions in, [123]
• — — supposed attributes of, [123]
• Straps, shoulder, [74], [75]
• Straw wisps on horses, [297]
• Streamers of sailor hat, [53], [53]
• — — Scotch cap, [53], [54]
• — on barristers’ gowns, [219]
• — — hats, [52], [52]
• — — head-dress of twelfth century, [53], [53]
• Strings, cap, [149]
• — on mitres, [54], [54]
• Stripe on trousers, vestige of a row of buttons, [81], [82]
• Stripes on sleeves of non-commissioned officers, [114]
• Stud, [118], [119]
• Suit, sailor, [162]
• Sumptuary laws, [349], [350], [351]
• — — a hindrance to trade, [351]
• — — usually a failure, [349]
• Sun-bonnet of barge women, [61]; see Plate [VIII], facing p. 150
• Sun-bonnets of horses, [300]
• — — — market-garden women, [61]
• Surcoat, [83]
• — of Black Prince, [87], [89]
• — — Henry Duke of Lancaster, [86], [86]
• Surgeons of the Life Guards wear cocked hats, [247]
• Superstitions keep up fashions, [349]
• Surplice, [185], [195], [199]
• — academical hood worn by clergy on a, [212]
• — Mr. Macalister on the, [185]
• — slit in front in order to go over big wigs, [185]
• Survivals of trade costumes (butchers), [308]
• — supposed in naval dress, [252]
• Suspenders, [71]
• Surtout, [148]
• Swaddling clothes still used in the Holy Land, [333]
• — — theory that stays are derived from, [332]
• — — swallow-tail coat, evolution of, [33], [34]
• — tails at Harrow, [170]
• Swastika, [119], [122]; see Plate [VII], fig. F, facing p. 129, [311]
• — the forerunner of the cross, [311]
• Sword belt, not worn outside the coat, [26]
• — handle, opening for, in coat, [30]
• — in Court dress, [227]
• — ivory hilted, worn by Eleventh Hussars, [244]

• Tab on soldier’s coat, [29], [30]
• — — side of coat, [31], [32]
• Tabards of heralds, [83]
• Tags, metal, [100], [101]
• — ornamental, [101], [101]
• — useless on top boots, [66], [66]
• Tailor and Cutter, Editor of, on clothes and nationality, [317]
• Talismans, wearing of, by ancient Egyptians, [122]
• Talith, [205]
• Tannin preserves woven material, [18]
• Tapir, spotted when young, [94]; see [Frontispiece]
• Tartan, Cameron, [242]
• — wearing of, forbidden, [351]
• Tartans, Royal Stuart, [312]
• — of Scotch clans, [312]
• — dyes for, obtained from native plants, [313]
• — clans with several, [312]
• Tattooing, [13]
• — and mittens, [99]
• — destroys the effect of nakedness even in Europeans, [277]
• — effect of, produced by open-work stockings and blouses, [70]
• — of the Maoris, [277]
• — practised by early Egyptians, [277]
• — — — European sailors, [277]
• — — — modern sailors, [277]
• — — — Jews, [277]
• — — — practised by old inhabitants of this country, [277]
• — scar, as a means of recognition, [276]
• Tax on elegant dress, [350]
• Teeth blackened by Hindu women, [273]
• — — — Japanese women on marriage, [273]
• Thistle, hood of the Order of the, [230]
• Thistles, [222]
• Tie, white at, Eton, [169]
• Tierra del Fuegians, [11]
• Tights, [70]
• — of acrobats, [286]
• — a survival of Florentine hose, [286]
• — — knightly orders, [231]
• Tippet, [192], [212]
• Tippets of Doctors of Divinity, scarlet, [212]
• — for ministers who are not graduates, [199]
• Tobit, dog in the Book of, suggested by Toby, [267]
• Toby, Elizabethan ruff of, [253]
• — represented in China by a dragon, [267]
• — — — France by a cat, [267]
• — ruff of, [263]
• — suggests the dog in the book of Tobit, [267]
• Toga, [187]
• — replacement of, [192]
• — when worn, [187]
• Toledo, Fourth Council of, [192]
• Tonsure, [217]
• — of priests, [127]
• Topaz as a detector of poison, [124]
• “Toothpick” collar of dress coat, [43], [43]
• Top-coat, [149]
• Trades, characteristic dresses of, [320]
• Trajan, trousers shown on the column of, [78]
• Tramway drivers, buttons on back of the coats of, [30], [31]
• Treble, cockade, large, [152]
• Trencher, [47], [213], [214]
• Triangles, mystic interlaced, [293]
• Trimmings of judge’s gown, altered in colour by Lord Coleridge, [218]
• Triskele in the coat-of-arms of the Isle of Man, [119]
• — — — — — — — Sicily, [119]
• Trousers, bell-bottom, [347]
• — evolution of, [77]
• — method of buttoning bishops’, [252]
• — not worn by Romans, [77]
• — of labourers, method of buttoning, [252]
• — — sailors, method of buttoning, [252]
• — shown on Trajan’s column, [78]
• — worn by barbarians, [78], [78]
• — — — lady gardeners at Kew, [358]
• — — — Normans, [79]
• — — — Saxons, [79], [79]
• — — — women in Siam, [81]; see Plate [V], facing p. 81
• — — — — — Persia, [81]
• — — in riding dress by ladies, [358]
• Trumpeters, State, uniform of, [242]
• Trumpington, Sir Richard de, brass of, showing chain mail, [234], [234]
• Trunk hose of clown, [269]
• — — of Knightly Orders, [231]
• Tudor dresses, shown by playing cards, [231]
• — flat cap, [214]
• Tunic, [16], [17], [17], [187]
• — developed from the shawl, [17], [18]
• Tunic, Egyptian, [16]
• — Greek, [16], [17]
• — of monks, [201]
• — sleeved, [17]
• — survival of the Anglo-Saxon, [288]
• Tunica alba, [189]
• Tunicle, [195], [221]
• Tunics, black, of farriers of Life Guards, [242]
• — of Anglo-Saxons compared with a shirt, [288]
• — — Lacedæmonian girls slit down the side, [346]
• Turban like the dome of a mosque, [50], [50]
• Turquoises always fashionable, [123]
• Twenty-Ninth Foot, sergeants of, wear sashes over their left shoulders, [249]
• Twain, Mark, [341]
• Tylor, Dr., on finger-rings, [114]
• — — — painting in war time by civilized races, [273]
• — — — the tendency to give up savage ornaments, [111]

• Underclothes, lack of, [360]
• Ulster, [149]
• Uniforms, naval, [251]
• — of Hussars, [272]
• — — Navy, date from 1767, [251]
• — — sergeant worn by extra drummer, [244]
• — military, regular adoption of, [235]
• — — solicitor of Guards, [247]
• — service, protectively coloured, [236]
• — gay, only used in times of peace, [236]
• Union Jack on King’s colours of Coldstream Guards, [246]
• Ushabti, models of servants put into Egyptian graves, [268]

• Veil of a bride, [175]
• — — novice, [202]
• — — nun, [202], [203]
• — — postulants, [202]
• Vergers, costume of, [218]
• Vermiform appendix, [3]
• Vestments, adoption of, by English High Church clergy, [192]
• — baptismal, [164]
• — ecclesiastical, [184]
• — of High Church clergy, coloured, adopted by, [305]
• — ornaments of, gradually acquired, [187]
• — prescribed by the first Prayer Book of Edward VI, [198]
• — prohibited by second Prayer Book of Edward VI, [199]
• — of Presbyterian clergy, professional, [185]
• — worn at the celebration of the Eucharist, [194]
• Vestige of a row of buttons, stripe on trousers, [81], [82]
• — — the coif from wig of a sergeant-at-law, [216], [217]
• Vestiges, buttons on postilions, [38]
• — of the fillet, [52], [52]
• — in the animal kingdom, [3]
• Vickery, Dr. Alice, on children’s dress, [165]
• Villiers-en-Couche, battle of, [244]
• Voice of Punch, [264]
• Vowesses, [183]

• Waist, wasp-like, [323]
• Wales’, Prince of, feathers a hereditary badge, [90]
• Waistbands, trade in discarded, in Paris, [348]
• Waistbelts, Professors Roy and Adami, on the beneficial use of, [332]
• Waistcoat, [148]
• Waiter, [144]
• Waiters, evening dress of, [144], [151]
• Wand of harlequin, [283]
• Warp, [16]
• — of hand loom, [117]
• Waterloo, battle of, 245
• Watermen, badges of, [91]
• Wearing of talismans by ancient Egyptians, [122]
• Weddings, superstitions at, [176]
• Weights, leaden, used by women to flatten their chests, [338]
• Weeds, old meaning of the word, [182]
• — widows, [182]
• Weft of hand loom, [117]
• Wells, Blue schools at, [168]
• Welsh Fusiliers, flash of, [241]
• Westminster, coats at, [169]
• Whips, fashions in, [303]
• Whiskers, effect of bushy, [130]
• White as mourning, [182]
• — clothes of butterman, [320]
• — — — man cook, [320]
• Widows, costume of, [198]
• Wig of coachman, [142], [142]
• — of judge, [215], [216]
• — — — depression in, [215]
• — — doctor in the Punch and Judy show, [264]
• Wig-bag of Court dress, [227], [229]
• — remnant of, [133]
• — on liveries of servants, [134], [143]
• — of Lord Mayor’s coachman, [134], [143], [143]
• Wigs, barristers’, [132]
• — coachmen’s, [132]
• — imitating curly hair, [130]
• — footmen’s, [132]
• — judges, [132]
• — legal, [215]
• — of East End Jewesses, [127]
• — — Egyptians, [128]
• — — Parliamentary officials, [132]
• — — Serjeants-at-law, [215]
• — value of, [228]
• Wilhelmstahl, battle of, [244]
• William Rufus, hanging sleeves of the time of, [209]
• Wimple, [175], [203]
• — of Norman ladies, [202]
• — of the time of the Plantagenets, [202]
• Winchester scholars, bands of, [169]
• Wolfe, General, black worm worn as mourning for, [242]
• Women, Arab, [122]
• — — ideas of modesty, [207]
• — barge, apron of, [150]; see Plate [VIII], facing p. 150
• — colour preferences of, [307]
• — covering their faces, [13], [206]
• — dress of, varies little, [16]
• — in church without hats, [13], [206]
• — — many places wear trousers, [357]
• — married, not to wear caps, [350]
• — milk, [150]
• — — yokes of, [110]
• — Padaung, metal collars of, [114]; see Plate [VI], facing p. 114
• — rational dress for, [361]
• — riding astride, [359]
• — the first to wear clothes, [12]
• — Welsh and Italian, age rapidly, [329]
• Wood, Mr. Walter, on white jackets for soldiers, [243]
• Woodville, Mr. Caton, on aiguillettes, [240]
• Worm, black, of East Yorkshire regiment, [242]
• — — mourning for Sir John Moore, [242]
• — — of North Lancashire regiment, [242]
• — — of Somersetshire Light Infantry, [242]
• — — worn as mourning for General Wolfe, [242]
• — slow, third eye in, [3]
• Wristbands, [24]

• Yellow as mourning, [182]
• — a favourite colour of gipsies, [306]
• — mourning colour in Oriental countries, [307]
• — worn by mediæval Jews, [307]
• Yeomen of the Guard, badges of, [224], [224], [225]
• — — — — dress of, [223]
• — — — — duties of, [225]
• — — — — officers, dress of, [225]
• — — — — — of, wear the uniform used in the Peninsular War, [225]
• — — — — original uniform of, [225]
• Yoke, [109], [110]
• — of milk woman, [110]
• Yoxall, Mr., on wearing of yellow by Jews, [306]