GHARDAIA.
The Ghardaia region can be characterized as a vast plain, broken to the north by low, irregularly disposed mountains, and stretching for a great distance to the south and southeast with a fairly monotonous surface, diversified only by oueds, chotts, or occasional dunes, which may be the size of small mountains. Thus on the one hand one finds the fairly diversified and stony Chebka and on the other the hamada, which has been aptly described by Brunhes[18] as “le désert par excellence, la vrai désert . . . les grandes plaques pierreuses indéfinies des hamadas!”
The leading oued of this region is the M’Zab, which extends for about 270 kilometers in a direction south of east across the southern part of the Chebka. It takes its origin about 80 kilometers west of Ghardaia and extends to the vicinity of Ouargla, where it debouches on the Ouargla plain. At Ghardaia the oued lies in a valley, with abrupt sides, which is sunk about 60 meters below the surrounding plain and which at this place is about 3 kilometers in width. (See fig. [16.]) There are four main tributaries of this oued, all of which join it from the north or the Chebka side. The valley of the M’Zab becomes more and more shallow as one proceeds eastward and at last lies but little below the general level of the country. Like the other deeper valleys of the Chebka, the M’Zab Valley represents the work of erosion by water at an earlier geological epoch, when the great terraces were formed. The filling of the eroded valleys has perhaps taken place during the long arid period since that time and has probably proceeded very slowly.
It appears to be uncertain how long the M’Zab has been inhabited by man, or, more accurately, by the race now dwelling there;[19] but it has probably been not less than nine centuries.[20]
At Ghardaia are several well-defined plant habitats, which may or may not be distinct topographical areas, and which differ from one another in exposure, soil conditions, and water relations. These are the plain of the Chebka (hamada), the low and flat-topped mountains resting on the plain of the Chebka, the walls of the M’Zab Valley, and the valley floor with its gardens, cemeteries, and waste lands.
The soil conditions of the areas mentioned are very diverse. On the valley walls and the mountains there are bold rock outcrops with soil in the interstices only, and here the most intensely arid conditions prevail. The soil on the hamada also is exceedingly meager. Rocks of various sizes strew the surface. It is only between them, as well as in the washes of gentle gradient, that the best soil conditions of the plain are to be found. Here a cursory examination shows a large admixture of small stones to the fine clay, the prevailing soil type, and that at a depth less than 50 cm. A white hardpan, similar in appearance to the caliche of the southwestern United States, may usually be encountered. In the drainage depressions the soil is relatively more coarse than on the more level portions of the hamada. There is also great variation in the character of the soils of the valley. Above the upper palm gardens, which are about 2 kilometers above the town of Ghardaia, will be found much sand and fairly large stationary dunes, while smaller dunes, shifted by the winds, are to be found at various places in the valley. About 10 kilometers down the valley, toward the east, the sand is blown against the valley sides, and in certain places where the walls are low it has been sifted in a thin layer over the plain itself. At the sister city of El Ateuf the drifting sand is a continuous menace to the gardens.
Between Ghardaia and the upper palm gardens, and also between this city and Beni Isguen and Melika, are bare areas, free from sand or clay, where the soil is so hard as to be used for threshing floors and where the small amount of grain grown in the valley is threshed and winnowed. The hardpan is similar in appearance to the caliche of the southwestern United States and may be essentially the same. It is of wide extent in the valley and probably underlies the largest portion of it. Near the threshing floors the upper portion of the hardpan stratum is from 2 to 3 meters above the bed of the oued M’Zab; the stratum is about 30 centimeters in thickness and is of fairly uniform structure throughout. Beneath this is another stratum, less well defined perhaps, of approximately the same thickness, and with nearly the same character, but carrying a noticeably large percentage of sand. The lower stratum is less hard than the upper one. Underneath the second stratum is soil, largely sand, containing rocks of various sizes. Where erosion of the oued banks has occurred the soft lower hardpan stratum and the yet more soft underlying soil are both removed, leaving the upper stratum projecting as a shelf, sometimes as large as 2 by 4 meters in extent. When the shelving banks break they remain practically intact, partly buried by the sandy floor of the oued. (See fig. [17.])
Along the sides of the valley, and at a distance more remote from the oued, there are occasional washed-out areas, really box cañons, where the banks show a slightly different condition of the hardpan from that just described. Here there may be three strata of hardpan. The uppermost is of the same stratum as the top stratum by the oued, and the second stratum also resembles the lower one just described. There is also a third hardpan stratum of a much different character, in that it has a very large admixture of sand and gravel, and large as well as small stones, making it more easily eroded than either of the upper strata. The soil in which the roots studied were found varied from a fine sand, with waterworn pebbles, near the oued, to a clay mixed with sand nearer the sides of the valley. In places the sand is cemented so as to resemble one of the hardpan strata above described, but it is less hard and apparently is penetrated by water without great difficulty.
The Oued M’Zab, whose channel is 15 meters more or less in width, is dry most of the year, containing water for only a few hours following the rare storms. Wells are very numerous in the valley and furnish a good supply of water. At the time of my visit to Ghardaia the water lay from 10 to 25 meters from the surface, depending on the position of the wells. The depth to water in a single well is said to vary from 1 or 2 meters to 15 meters; in other words, the water-table of the valley varies 13 to 15 meters between the dry and the moist seasons. No analysis of the water is available, but it is reputed to be noticeably saline near and below the town of Ghardaia, while above the town this quality is not apparent to the taste. The water relations of the plain are much less favorable for plants than those of the M’Zab Valley. In addition to the fact that the soil of this area receives only such water as falls directly on it, there is so little depth that the water escapes shortly after it falls, leaving only the most favorably situated soils, for example, those beneath shallowly placed rocks, or between rocks, or in deeply penetrating cracks or the depressions, with sufficient moisture for long use by plants. The depth to water on the hamada is so great that successful wells have never been dug.