Woodwork Joints: How They Are Set Out, How Made and Where Used.

by William Fairham

Fig. 35.—Halved Joint with one side Dovetailed.

Fig. 36.—Halved Joint with Double Dovetail.

Fig. 37.—Oblique Dovetail Halving.

Fig. 38.—Stopped Dovetail Halving.

[Fig. 38] shows "Stopped Dovetail Halving." In this case the dovetail is similar to [Fig. 33], with the exception that it does not run through the bottom rail. This is an advantage if the bottom edge of the rail is in evidence, or if it is required to glue a moulding or hardwood facing slip on the lower edge. The glue adheres better with the grain than it would end way of the grain, and if slight shrinkage occurs across the width of the bottom rail the moulding would not be forced away by the upright (see example at [Fig. 28, 10]).

Fig. 39.—Cross Halving Joint.

Fig. 40.—Cross Halving Joint Edgeways.

Fig. 41.—Tee Halving Joint.

The joint lettered B in [Fig. 28] is a "Cross Halving Joint" where each piece runs through the other. [Fig. 39] shows this joint separated, and [Fig. 40] shows a similar joint separated where the joint is made edgeways.

[Fig. 41] shows a "Tee Halving Joint" with a dovetail cut on the edge. This is seldom used except as a woodwork exercise.

[Fig. 42] is a "Dovetailed Halving Joint" used for lengthening timber, and is also a favourite Manual Training model. It might also come under the heading of scarf joint, although rarely used in actual practice as such. As a practical woodwork exercise it calls for accurate marking out and careful fitting.