Nov. 2nd.—I thought it best to set off, although it was raining heavily. Our course lay in an E. direction up the Karam for about two hours, when it diverged: it thence after passing through some heavy jungle continued up the steep bed of the now dry Dailoom; it next diverged again about 2 P.M., when we ascended a small hill; it continued thence through heavy jungle chiefly bamboo, until we descended in an oblique manner on the Laee-panee, about a mile up which we found our halting place. The whole march occupied, including a few halts, seven hours; and as the pace was pretty good for six full hours, I compute the distance to be about fifteen miles. Hill Flora recommenced in the bamboo jungle; two fine species of Impatiens and several Urticeæ making their appearance; Camellia axillaris and some fine Acanthacea: the best plant was a species of Aristolochea. The latter part of the day was fine, and the elephants with grain from Suddiyah arrived.
Nov. 3rd.—Passed the forenoon in ascending the hill opposite our encampment: it is of no great height, but like all the others very steep. To the N.W. of this has occurred a large slip, but long previous to this time; on it two or three Phæniceous palms may be found. Pandanus still occurs. The hill was barren of Botany, excepting a few ferns towards base.
Nov. 4th.—Left Laee-panee at 9½ A.M., and reached the encampment at 3½ P.M. Our course diverged almost immediately from the last encampment, and we ascended for some time up the bed of a torrent. The first hill we ascended occupied an hour, and the remainder of the day’s journey consisted of ascents and descents along the most difficult path imaginable. All the hills are very steep, and the paths when they wind round these, are very difficult; a slip would cause a dangerous fall. About 1 P.M. we reached two or three houses constituting a village.
From this, one has a fine view of the plains, and of the B. pooter near its exit from the hills: it is much intersected by islets covered with jungle. Leeches are not very numerous. Dundoons or sand flies very annoying. I have gathered plenty of plants, especially ferns. Wallichia continues; Wulfenia obliqua, and a Companula were the best. At our halting place I found the fruits of Sedgwickia in abundance. Passed two or three streams. Found the flowers of a large Loranthus, or rather its very large flowers on the ground. They are eaten by the natives, but the acidity is unpleasant, owing to its being mixed with a bitter; the flowers are two inches long: tubo 4 angulato, basi-coccinescenti, laminis viridibus interstibus carneis, coccineo lineatis præsenti transverse, antheris syngenesis. Sarcocordalis, common.
Nov. 5th.—Left at half-past 8, and reached extensive kheties (cultivated fields) with dispersed houses at about 1 P.M. This place is called Dilling. Our route consisted of the same fatiguing marching: we passed over some hills, from which we had fine views. The first gave us a fine sight of the Patkaye mountains, [{31}] S.E. of Upper Assam, which reach apparently a great height. The second, of the plains of Assam. The exact summits of all the hills are covered with a coarse spicate Saccharum. On one we met with a Melampyracea. The Botany is improving greatly; two species of Viola, two fine Cyrthandraceæ occurring. I also noticed Sedgwickia again, and got abundance of ferns, a Buddleia, and a fine Amaranthacea. Halted on a cleared ground immediately under the Red mountain so plainly seen from Jingsha. There is now no appearance of water-falls on it, but there are several white spots owing to slips: the brink or brim of this hill is woody, but there is a considerable space covered only with short grass. The strata are inclined at an angle of 45°. I here got two or three fine mosses. All the Mishmees have the idea, that on some hills at least rain is caused by striking trees of a certain size with large stones, some hills are again free from this charm; it was ridiculous to hear them call out not to throw stones whenever we approached one of these rainy hills. The people appear to get dirtier the farther we advance. I saw plenty of snow on two high peaks, and had a peep of the Lohit beyond Brahma Koond. Wallichia continues, as well as Bambusa, Saccharum Megala. The kheties are either of rice or Cynosurus or Zea. Tobacco is not cultivated, but left to take care of itself. Buddleia Neemda and wild plantain continue, the latter is probably a distinct species; leaves subtis glauco niveis. Pandanus continues. The name of the Red mountain before alluded to, is Thu-ma-thaya, the rivulet at its base is Tus-soo-muchee. Tus-soo Dee-ling is the name of the place; a large mountain bearing N.N.E., is Sun-jong-thaya. It is obvious that Dee-ling must be of some extent, as my site does not agree with that of Wilcox. The view to the E. is entirely limited to Thu-ma-thaya, and to the N.N.E., by Sun-jong-thaya; no B. pooter is visible, nor is Ghaloom’s house. The snow collects on the Thu-ma-thaya this month: the clearings for cultivation on the declivities of Thu-ma-thaya are called Chim-bra: the houses, although at great distances from the village, are called Yeu.
Nov. 6th.—We arrived at our halting place after a march of seven hours, over a most difficult and fatiguing road: we skirted throughout the whole time the base of the huge Thu-ma-thaya; I never saw a worse road, if road it may be called—part of it lay over places where a false step or slip would be very dangerous, if not fatal. We came suddenly on the B. pooter; but as the place was not a good one for crossing, we prepared to go a little higher up the stream, and though the distance we had to go was not above 100 yards, yet as the river side was impracticable, it became necessary to ascend and descend by a most difficult path where a slip would have precipitated one into the river sixty or seventy feet below. What rendered this passage most difficult and dangerous, was the jungle which, while it caused you to stoop, at the same time concealed your footing. It is one of the characteristics of Mishmees, that they sooner risk their necks than take the trouble of cutting down underwood.
We have scarcely passed Thu-ma-thaya, so that the distance we have travelled in a direct line from Deeling must be very small. The stream of the Lohit is not forty yards broad, but the bed is about sixty. It has the appearance of great depth, and roars along amidst rocks in some places in fine style. I here picked up some small branches of an elm, very like U. virgata: the tree was too late to reach fruit. I also gathered a fine Acanthacea, and some good ferns. The north bank of the Lohit here has the same structure as the south at the Koond, and is perpendicular. The water of the Lohit is certainly much cooler than any of the mountain streams. Vast blocks of rock, of many sorts, lie strewed on the south side; one in particular is quartzose, remarkable for the indentations on its surface. I here gathered some mosses, and a good Marchantiacea, very nearly allied to Octoskepos, but culiculate. Pandanus still continues, as also Marlea, Wallichia, Caryota, and Pentaptera. Passed several streams, and a pretty fall, the water falling down a cliff almost perpendicular, about 100 feet high. The Mishmees use the fibres and reti of Caryota as an ornament to their baskets, from which it likewise keeps the rain. Wild plantain continues. Our encampment is on a fine bed of sand.
Nov. 7th.—Rain throughout the night at intervals, and sharp cold in the morning; we left at 9 A.M. and arrived at our encampment about 12 P.M. The first part of our march was very difficult, it in fact consisted of crossing a precipice overhanging the Lohit; the difficulty was increased by the slipperiness occasioned by the rain; no one could pass some of the places unless aided by ratans fixed to trees, etc. We came to the Sung river about 12 noon, but were delayed some time in building a bridge. This river appears to me to be in some places fordable, but the Mishmees say that it is not; the water is beautifully clear. The first cane suspended bridge occurs here; I did not fancy it, although I observed the Mishmees cross, the passage taking barely half a minute. Throughout the whole time the Mishmees use their legs and arms, to accelerate or determine their progress; the inclination caused by the weight is slight. I preferred one of our own erection, about 100 yards distant from it. The height is not great over the river, and the width is perhaps thirty yards. The Bourra crossed after some delay; we were then obliged to make two halts: we followed the Sung down to its mouth, which is barely 200 yards: its bed is rocky; at its junction there is a large bay formed, on the N. side of which is a fine sand bank. The Lohit there runs nearly N. and S., and is excessively violent in its course, certainly ten miles an hour. The scenery is pretty, but no hills of great height are seen to any extent. This is the most romantic spot I have seen in my course of travels as yet. We forded the bay about its centre, and encamped on the sand: the path we are to follow is said to be above, and very difficult. We here gathered some fine ferns and a Bleteoid Orchidea. A Gentianacea likewise occurred. The Tapan Gam, on my inquiring, said, that Wilcox passed by the upper path, the Lohit at that time running under the cliff which forms one side of the bay. [{33}] The course of the river, he says, has since changed by the occurrence of a large slip, principally of mica slate.
Nov. 8th.—The commencement of our march to-day was up a hill, the ascent, as in all the other cases, being very steep. From its summit we could see Dilling in a horizontal distance extremely near. We then proceeded skirting the hill, and descended subsequently to the O. rivulet, which is of no size. We then ascended another considerable height, and found ourselves on the site of Ghaloom’s old dwelling. The situation was delightful; to the N.E., a high range was visible, which is covered with snow, the pines on the lower parts of the ridge standing out, in fine relief. To the N. was a noble peak bare at its summit, on which snow rests during some months, its centre being prettily marked out with numerous patches of cultivation. To the N. again the Tid-ding might be seen foaming along the valleys; the hills are evidently improving in height and magnificence of scenery. We reached this at 12 o’clock, our march having lasted five hours. We thence descended crossing a small stream at the base of the hill, on which Ghaloom’s former house stood, called the Dhaloom Basee.
I thence proceeded over some nasty swampy ground with a few low elevations until we reached Ghaloom’s, which we did about 2 P.M. A small spot was allotted to us some distance from the village, on which we erected our huts. Ghaloom changed his residence to this place, owing to the death of two of his people, which was attributed to the unhealthiness of the former site; but as might be expected from the nature of the place he has chosen, he has suffered very severely from fever since his removal. As soon as our huts were built, Ghaloom and his brother Khosha visited us, preceded by the hind quarter of a pig. Their appearance is somewhat better than the ordinary run of Mishmees, but they are just as dirty. Khosha is a little man, with a mahogany-coloured wrinkled face. Great attention was paid by their attendants to all they said, and Khosha himself is evidently the Demosthenes of the Mishmees. When interrupted, he commanded silence in an authoritative way. Krisong was not present. Khosha declares that Rooling, the Mezhoo chief, is nobody, and that Wilcox gave him his present unknown to them. The acquisitions in Botany consisted of some fine Cyrtandraceæ, a Cymbidium, and some ferns. One of these Cyrtandraceæ is very singular: the runners are long, producing one stem with a very small terminal leaf, and a very large flower. Afterwards this leaf enlarges, becomes a large cordate Begonioid one, bearing from its bosom apparently one or two Siliquæ; Pandanus Bambusa continue. The fine Quercus is common, Megala, Podomolia, Triumfetta, Siegesbeckia. Cynoglossum, Callicarpa, Urena, Rottlera and several other low tropical forms continue. The Cymbidioid has pollena 4, incumbentia postice aliquoties minore, glandula nulla?