[281-‡] If you are not contented with the natural colour, break some lobsters’ eggs into it, and you will not only heighten the complexion of your sauce, but improve its flavour. This is the only rouge we can recommend. See [note] to [No. 284].

[283-*] “The mushrooms employed for preparing ready-made catchup, are generally those which are in a putrefactive state. In a few days after those fungi have been gathered, they become the habitations of myriads of insects.”—Accum on Culinary Poisons, 12mo. 1820, p. 350.

[284-*] The squeezings are the perquisite of the cook, to make sauce for the second table: do not deprive her of it; it is the most profitable save-all you can give her, and will enable her to make up a good family dinner, with what would otherwise be wasted. After the mushrooms have been squeezed, dry them in the Dutch oven, and make mushroom powder.

[286-*] “Potatoes, in whatever condition, whether spoiled by frost, germination, &c., provided they are raw, constantly afford starch, differing only in quality, the round gray ones the most; a pound producing about two ounces.”—Parmentier on Nutritive Vegetables, 8vo. p. 31.

“100lb. of potatoes yield 10lb. of starch.”—S. Gray’s Supplement to the Pharmacopœia, 8vo. 1821, p. 198.

[288-*] If you like the flavour, and do not dislike the expense, instead of allspice, put in mace and cloves. The above is very similar to the powder-fort used in King Richard the Second’s kitchen, A. D. 1390. See “Pegge Forme of Cury” p. xxx.

[288-†] The back part of these ovens is so much hotter than that which is next the fire, that to dry things equally, their situation must be frequently changed, or those at the back of the oven will be done too much, before those in the front are done enough.

[291-*] This is sadly neglected by those who dry herbs for sale. If you buy them ready dried, before you pound them, cleanse them from dirt and dust by stripping the leaves from the stalks, and rub them between your hands over a hair-sieve; put them into the sieve, and shake them well, and the dust will go through.

[291-†] The common custom is to put them into paper bags, and lay them on a shelf in the kitchen, exposed to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, &c.: thus they soon lose their flavour.

[291-‡] A delicious herb, that deserves to be better known.