106. Hardy.—[Fig. 93]. Fullering, forging, hardening, and tempering. Material: 3 inches of 2 × 7⁄8-inch tool steel.
Using steel 2 inches wide with a thickness equal to the dimension of the hardy hole, fuller and draw a slightly tapered shank 13⁄4 or 2 inches long, to fit loosely into the anvil. The broken lines at a, [Fig. 93], indicate the drawn shank. Cut off the stock 11⁄2 inches from the shoulders at b. Heat and drive the drawn end into the hardy hole so as to square up the shoulders and fit them to the anvil. Then draw the heavy end tapering gradually from the sides, terminating 1⁄8 inch thick and 2 inches wide. Grind this tool similar to the hot cutter; harden, and temper to a purple or blue.
Fig. 93.—Hardy.
Fig. 94.—Flatter or Round-edged Set Hammer.
107. Flatter.—[Fig. 94]. Upsetting, forging, and punching. Material: 43⁄4 inches of 11⁄2-inch square tool steel.
In forming the face of a flatter, the metal should be upset. This may be accomplished by ramming, but when so done, excess metal is formed just above the wide portion, causing considerable fullering and forging. If a piece of steel 43⁄4 inches long and 11⁄2 inches square is cut off, and one end is drawn slightly tapering, it may, when heated, be placed in a square hole of the right size in the swage block, with the drawn end supported on something solid, leaving 11⁄2 inches projecting. The hot steel can then be hammered down with a couple of sledges, until the face is formed to 3⁄8 inch thick or about 2 inches square, as at a, [Fig. 94].
Punch and drift an eyehole 11⁄4 inches from the face, then draw and form the head. Anneal in warm ashes. When it is cold, the face should be ground perfectly straight, smooth, and at a right angle to the body, with the surrounding edges slightly round, as shown, or they may be left sharp and square if desired.
A round-edged set hammer may be made in this manner, but as the face should not be so large, less metal is required.