Arriving at Naples, I gave joyfull thankes to God for my safe returne to Christendome, and the day following, I went to review the auncient Monuments of Putzola or Puteoli: Which when I had dilligently remarked in my returne halfe way to Naples, I met the aforesayd English Gentleman and M. Woode, who needes would have me turne backe to accompany them hither. When come, we tooke a Guide, and so proceeded in our sights; the first The antiquities of Putzolo.thing of any note wee saw, was the stupendious Bridge, which Caius Caligula builded betweene Putzolo and Baia, over an arme of the Sea, two miles broad: Some huge Arches, Pillars, and fragments whereof remayne unruined to this day: The next, was the new made Mountayne of Sand, which hath dryed up Lago Lucrino, being by an Earth-quake transported hither; at the foote of this fabolous Hill, we saw the remnants of Ciceroes Village.
Thence we came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on the East side of Lacus Avernus, the Walles whereof, and pendicles (the Tecture excepted) are as yet undemolished.
This Lake Averno is round, and hemb’d in about with comely heights, being as our Guide reported infinitely deepe, and in circuite a short mile. The West end whereof, is invironed with the Mountayne of Cuma, whether Æneas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of Carthage, and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus.
Advancing our way, along the brinke of the Lake, we Sybilaes Cave.came to Sybillaes Cave, the entery being darke, because of the obscure passage, hewen out and cut through the mayne Rocke, our Guide strooke fire, and so with a Flambo [IX. 401.]marched before us. The first passage was exceeding high Cime, and the further end stopped with mouldring earth. Inclining to our right hand, we passed through a very straite and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes Chamber, which is a delicate Roome, and Artificially decored with Mosaical Worke: Here it is sayd, the Divell frequented her Company, and where shee wrot her Prophecies. From thence hee conducted us through a most intricate and narrow way, (wherein we were forced to walke sidling in) to a large and vast Rome: The Rockey vault whereof, was hanging full of loose and long stones, many of which were fallen to the bottome.
This great Cell or Hall, is a yard deepe of blackish Water, The old dining roome of Sybilla.and was the dining Roome of Sybilla: In which hearing toward the further end, a scriking noyse, as if it had beene the chirking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, the bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded our Guide from whence such a sound proceeded? Who answered, they were Dragons and flying Serpents, praying us to Returne, for the fellow was mightily affrayde: Whereat I laughing, Replyed, there was no such matter; and M. Stydolffe desirous to know it, hee onely and I, leaving the other two behind us, adventured the tryall: Having more then halfe way entered in this Sale, stepping on huge stones because of the Water, and I carrying the Flambo, for lacke of ayre, being so far under ground, the light perished. Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide, but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our words, neyther would he, nor durst he hazard to support us.
Meanewhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find such a difficult way backe, and tendering (as by duty) the [IX. 402.]worthy Gentleman, I stepped downe to my middle thigh in the water, wrestling so along to keepe him on the dry stones. Where indeed I must confesse, I grew affrighted for my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, and Snakes, for indeed the distracting noyse drew aye nearer and nearer us. At last, falling neare the voyce of our guide, who never left shouting, wee returned the same way wee came in, and so through the other passages, till wee were in open fields.
Here indeed for my too much curiosity, I was condignely requited, being all bemired and wet to the middle, yet forthwith the vigorous Sunne disburdned me quickly thereof: From thence (to be briefe) we came to The ancient varieties of the antiquities of Putzolo.the Bagni, the relicts of Pompeis Village, to the Fort of Baia, and the Laborinth of Ciento Camarello, into the admirable fish ponds of Lucullus, (the coverture of which, is supported by 48. naturall pillars of stony earth) to the detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elisian fields: Thence we returned by the Sepulcher of Agricula, the mother of cruell Nero, who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he was conceived; and by the two decayed Temples of Venus, and Mercury: Crossing over in a boat to the Towne of Putzolo, the chiefe monument we saw, was the auncient Temple of Jupiter, who serveth now for their Domo, or Parochiall Church: The latter Idolatry of which, is nothing inferiour to the former.
Meanewhile here arrived the French Gallies, fetching home Chevalier du Vandum, the Prior of France from Malta: Who scouring the coast of the lower Barbary, their fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate English ship belonging to Captaine Pennington, which they as a Cursaro or man of Warre confiscated. Their Anchors [IX. 403.]fallen, I boorded the Queenes Galley, where to my great griefe I found a Countrey-man of speciall acquaintance, The Mr. of a Scots ship distressed by evill misfortune.George Gib of Burrowtownenes (who was Pylot to the English) fast chained to an oare, with shaven head and face: Who had his owne shippe twice seazed on by the Turkes, and Mamora, which ship he lastly recovered at the Ile Sardinia, and sold her at Naples being miserably worme-eaten. To whose undeserved miseries, in my charitable love, I made a Christian oath, that at my arrivall in England, I should procure by the helpe of his friends, his Majesties letters to the Duke of Guyse Admirall, for his deliverance. But soone thereafter, being of a great spirit, his heart broke, and so died in Marseils.
Tempora labuntur, tacitisque senescimus annis,
Et fugiunt fræno, non remorante Dies.