Times slide away, gray haires come posting on,
No reyne can hold, our dayes so swiftly gon.
Departing from Putzolo, we came to the Sulphatara, where the fine Brimstone is made, which is a pretty incircling Plaine, standing upon a moderate hight; having three vents, through two of which, the smoaking flame ariseth, and the other produceth no fire; but after an excessive raine surgeth sixe foote high with blacke boyling water, which continueth so long as the rayne lasteth.
From thence (our Guide leaving us) we came to Grotto di cane; wherein if a Dogge be cast he will suddenly die, and taken thence, and cast in the Lake, he will forthwith revive: This Grotto or Cave, standeth on the side and root of a sulphure hill, the brinke of Lago di Avagno: We desirous to make tryall of a Dog; and finding the [IX. 404.]fellow that purposely stayeth there somewhat extortionable, I adventured in stead of a Dog to make tryall of my selfe; Whereupon Maister Stydolffe holding up the quartered doore, I entered to the further end thereof, bringing back a warme stone in each hand from thence: whereat the Italians swore, I was a Divell and not a man: for behold (say they) there was a French Gentleman the former yeare, who in a Bravado, would needes goe in: whereupon hee was presently stifled to death, and here lyeth buried at the mouth of the Grotto to serve for a caveat, to all rash and unadvised strangers to doe the like.
The dangerous Dogs Cave neare unto Putzolo.The relation indeed was true, but I counting nothing of it, would needes (sore against the Gentleman and Master Woods will) goe in againe, where entred to the bottome being ten paces long, the moysty and choaking heat did so suffocate and benumbe my senses, that with much adoe I returned backe; where receiving the fresh ayre, and a little Wine, I presently forgot my former trance: which when the Dog-keeper saw, he for an easie composition made triall of his Dog; and having tyed a string to his hinder leg, he cast the Dog scarce halfe way in the Cave, where immediately his tongue hanging out, he fell downe dead: And forthwith his Master repulling him backe, cast him in the Lake, powring in water in his eares, but hee could never recover his life. Whereupon the poore man cried out, alas I am undone, what shall I doe, the Dog that wonne my dayly food is dead; in compassion whereof the worthy Gentleman doubled his wages.
In our way and returne to Naples, we passed through Virgils Grot, being halfe a mile long, and cut through the maine body of a Rocke, whereby the Mountaine of Cataia [IX. 405.]by the Sea-side is made passable; at the East end whereof neare the Cyme of the vault is Virgils Tombe: and arrived at Naples, Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to divers of his Countrey Gentlemen and mine, of my adventure in Grotto di Cane, they could hardly be perswaded to beleeve it: But when avouched, they all avowed I had done that (so did divers Neapolitans) which never man had done before me reserving life.
Bidding farewell to my generous friends, I marched through Terra di lavoro, and in the way of Saint Germane, and Mount Cassino to Rome; within ten miles of Capua, Great poverty under great titles.I found the poorest Bishop (Nomen sine re) the world affoordeth: having no more (nor never had he, nor any before him) than dui Carolini or Juletti twelve pence a day to spend. So is there many a Marquesse, Earle, Baron, and Knight in Italy, who is unable at one time, to keepe a foote-man at his heeles, a Dog at his foote, a Horse betweene his legs, a good sute of clothes on his backe, and his belly well fed; so glorious be their stiles, and so miserable their revenewes.
Touching at Rome, I secretly borrowed one nights lodging there, and at the breach of day another houres sight and conference, with my Cousing Simeon Grahame; who ere the Sunne arose, crossing Ponto flamingo, brought me on in my journey, till a high way Taverne like a Jayle held us both fast, where leaving our reciprocall loves behind us, wee divided our bodies East and West.
And now ere I leave Rome, I thinke it best, to let our Papists here at home, see the shamefull lives & cruell deaths, of most of their Popes beyond Seas: which their owne best Authors in France, Italy, and Spaine, have justly & condignely avouched & recorded; & authorized also to light by their prime powers civil and spirituall. [IX. 406.]The papists generally hold, that in their Popes, is all power; Super omnes Potestates, tam Cæli quam Terræ; above all powers both in Heaven and Earth: They tearme him Alter Deus in terris; a second God upon the Earth: Deus mortalis in terris, et immortalis homo in Cælis; a mortall god upon the Earth, and an Immortall man in the Heavens: Some of them have allotted, that he is, Non deus, non homo, sed utrunque; neyther God nor man but both: The Popes former title was Servus servorum Dei; and they call him Rex Regum, Dominus Dominantium, King of Kings, and Lord of Lords.
The false and arrogant titles of the Pope.Paul the third, entering Tolentino in the vale of Ombria joyning with Tuscany, had this salutation: Paulo tertio, Maximo, in terris Deo; to Paule the third, the best, and greatest God on earth. Then since they will have them gods, above the God of Gods; tell me I pray you, what a May pole Dauncer, was John 12. alias 13. of 18. yeares old, who made the Lateran their great Church in Rome, a playne Stewes or Brothel house.