The French army having made a movement to the northward, orders arrived in the evening for the 14th Dragoons to march at daylight the next morning for Estramoy, where they halted for the night. Next day they moved forward to Frontiera, and from thence to O’Crato, where are the remains of an old Moorish castle. We left this town on the morning of the 5th of August, and on our arrival at the miserable village of Gafete, my leave of absence having expired, I was obliged, to my great sorrow, to return to Lisbon. So, bidding my brother and friends of the regiment adieu, I struck off for Abrantes, thirty miles distant.
Colonel Hervey very kindly sent a dragoon to escort me thither, the road being rendered dangerous by marauding parties of the natives. I was now mounted upon a nice little French horse. He had belonged to the French 1st Hussars, and had been taken from the enemy in a charge by my brother’s troop. I reached Abrantes by five in the evening, and, having got a tolerable billet and something to eat, was glad to go to rest.
At ten the next morning I quitted Abrantes alone, the soldier having gone back to his regiment, which was ordered to cover the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo.
I had still eighty-four miles to ride to Lisbon, which was not very pleasant to do alone at that period, considering the excited state and wretched poverty of the country.
At sunset I arrived at Santarem, thirty-six miles from Abrantes. This latter is a large, dirty town, standing upon a hill that commands the country around it. The river Tagus runs at its foot, over which is a bridge of boats that can be removed at pleasure. The French marshal, Junot, derived his title from this city.
At Santarem I picked up an English soldier, who undertook the care of my horse. This is a large town. Part of it is built on a high hill: the remainder standing in a valley.
When here last year the French committed great devastation, unroofing some of the houses, and staving in the sides of others, besides plundering and destroying whatever they could lay their hands on.
My billet had been unroofed, and part of its sides were torn down. I found a mattrass spread on the floor, but without the necessary accompaniment of clothes. The fleas, as is usual in such places, were exceedingly troublesome; but, having ridden all day under a hot sun, sleep soon overcame this annoyance, and I remained unconscious of their attacks till seven the next morning, when I arose, and, after taking a refreshing swim in the Tagus in order to get rid of my lively bed-fellows, ate my breakfast, and then rode to Villa Franca, twenty-four miles. The heat of the weather being very great, and my horse loaded with my saddle bags, it was impossible for me to go faster than a walk, so that it was evening before I reached that place.
In the course of the day I passed through several small villages that the French had nearly destroyed. The inhabitants were beginning to return and put the remains of their houses in order.