At Villa Franca I got a tolerably good dinner, but was almost talked to death by the landlady, an Irishwoman, at whose house I had put up, and who inquired the news of the army—what they were about—whither going—where such a regiment was, &c., &c., forgetting that I was tired and wanted rest.
Early next morning I left for Lisbon, and, after a ride of six hours, passing by part of the lines of Torres Vedras, at which men were still working, I reached that city.
I had ridden, for the first time in my life, more than five hundred miles, and nearly the whole of it in the sun during the hottest part of the day, in the months of July and August, without its doing me the least harm, and never feeling over fatigued.
CHAPTER XII.
Lisbon, Cintra, Mafra, etc., 1811, 1812—Second trip to the Army—Taking of Badajoz.
I spent the remainder of the year in the Tagus, making, when duty permitted, excursions up that river to some of the small islands, near Alhandra, where we used to find snipe, quail, and other wild fowl. Sometimes we landed on the south side of the Tagus, to shoot red-legged partridges and woodcocks, which we occasionally met with near the Prince’s Quinta. But the most delightful place for snipe and wild fowl was Loares, on the road towards Torres Vedras: the swamps being there alive with various kinds of them, and amongst others, bittern, kites, hawks, and I have seen, now and then, an osprey.
In March, 1812, I made a very pleasant excursion to Cintra, Mafra, and Colares, with the present Lord By——, and some other officers of the Barfleur. On our road, we went to see the palace of Calous, where, in some of the rooms are, very well painted, the whole of the adventures of Don Quixote.
Cintra, fifteen miles distant from Lisbon, is situated on the north-east side of the rock. It is certainly one of the most romantic places I have seen, and commands an extensive and beautiful view of the country and of the sea. The buildings most worthy of observation are: first, the Penia convent, rising from the rock of Lisbon; it is about three hundred and twenty years’ old, and is tenanted by three monks. From hence is a fine prospect, comprising Cape Espichel, Peniche, and the Burling islands. Another convent, called the Cork, from its being lined with that wood, built also on the rock, and having fifteen monks for its inmates, next attracts attention. This was founded about three hundred years ago. Beyond, on an extreme point of the rock, are the ruins of a Moorish castle, mosque, prison, and baths: the latter supposed by some to be of Roman origin. The Marquess of Marialva’s palace, where the convention was signed, is very fine, and pleasantly situated.