Rising amongst rocks, and embosomed in orange, lemon, and pomegranate trees, Penia Verde must not pass unnoticed. Its original possessor, Don Juan de Castro, who died A. D. 1723, and whose remains, at his request, were interred in a particular spot in the garden, discovered much of the interior of Brazil: besides being of great use to the Government in several important matters. On his return to Lisbon he petitioned for a pension, which being most ungratefully refused, he so willed his property and possessions as to prevent them in any way benefiting his country, which had turned a deaf ear to his claims for compensation for the services he had rendered her. This fact our guide adduced as a reason for the grounds being found in their wild and neglected condition.
The king’s palace, an old gloomy edifice, did not much take my fancy. What most struck me there was a shower-bath, lined with white marble, or, perhaps, pantiles, and which, on turning a pipe, throws the water in all directions. It not unfrequently happened that visitors were taught a practical lesson of its powers. It used to be a joke to get them to step into the bath room, the machinery was put in motion, and they underwent a good drenching as the reward of their curiosity.
The prince’s palace of Romalyan I thought pretty, and its situation, looking towards Lisbon and the sea, quite delightful. The Marquis of Marialva has other gardens than those adjoining his palace, which we went to see, on account of the figures they contain; amongst them are shoemakers, and an old woman spinning, all as large as life; by touching some wires they are set in motion and immediately begin their work.
We one day rode to the village of Colares, prettily situated near the sea, and famous for its wine, which is so excellent that I am surprised it is not more frequently met with in England; it is something in flavour between claret and burgundy.
In the garden of a Signor Tomazine, at the above place, is a mineral spring, but I am ignorant of its qualities. Would not this afford a capital speculation to an M.D. Let me advise one to analyse the spring, rent it—write a pamphlet upon its good qualities—recommend it strongly for the cure of all kinds of complaints, particularly consumptions and pulmonary affections. The fine beautiful air of Cintra, and its romantic scenery he could always call in to his aid as a good and faithful ally in all extreme cases; and when he occasionally failed, he might say the case was desperate, and the patient’s time was come. With the assistance above mentioned, he would be sure to effect some cures, and make his fortune; steam vessels would bring him patients and friends to attend them, some of the latter would probably in time fall sick, and, therefore, he might justly calculate upon getting a few of them also on his books as patients. I hope, should any medical gentleman take this hint, he will remember me gratefully in his will, for depend upon it, the speculation will answer much better than many of the railroads.
Before leaving Cintra, on our return to Lisbon, we made an excursion to Mafra to see an eminent building, containing, besides a convent and church, a palace for the king, and another for the queen. I believe that, with the exception of the Escurial in Spain, this is the largest pile of building in Europe. I was told that in one quadrangle alone, the French, previous to the convention, had quartered 15,000 men. From the roof is a fine view of the country for many miles. There is also a topada, or park, of some extent, belonging to it. From the church rises a dome, something like that of St. Paul’s in London. There are likewise two steeples. The interior, which contains some good paintings, and several pieces of sculpture in alto-relief, on scriptural subjects, is well worth inspection. These were executed at Rome, and showed the hand of a great master. There are also statues of all the saints, in white marble. Its six organs are considered very fine, and according to the padres, the Mafra ring of bells is the best in the world. This palace, at the time we saw it, was the depôt for the formation of the Portuguese army.
I have not dwelt much on Lisbon, a city so generally known, that to notice its public buildings, aqueduct, etc., would be superfluous in a narrative like the present. We had a few slight shocks of an earthquake during the time I was there, which created a little alarm, and caused all the church bells to be set ringing for the people to come to mass.
On the 16th of March I had permission to accompany my brother to his regiment, which was then at Olivença, in Spain, covering the siege of Badajoz. Our route to the army was the same as before, through the Alemtejo to Elvas; we crossed the river Guadiana by the ford of Xerumaha to Olivença, in Estramadura, where the regiment remained until the 4th of April.
Marshal Soult having advanced towards Badajoz to try and raise the siege, the cavalry, both heavy and light, were sent forward as far as Villaloa, Almandralajo, and Villa Franca, to oppose him; some brigades of infantry occupying Albuera on nearly the same spot where Lord Beresford fought the battle.