We cruised around the gulf a few days, and again stood for San Blass; running upon a reef we bilged our vessel. Thinking I had served long enough in the Mexican service, I took my clothes, without saying a word to the officers, and went on shore.
Finding the brig Romance, Capt. Johnson, lying there, bound for Buenos Ayres, laden with Indigo and cocoa, I shipped myself on board. The cocoa, with which we were laden, is a small nut, of the size of a large chestnut, from which chocolate is made; it grows in pods like peas, and is cultivated like corn yearly.
We spread our sails to a steady, strong north wind, as much as we could possibly stagger under. Stowed anchors, and made all things snug about deck. Sailed under Peruvian colors to avoid detection. As we came abreast Panama, the wind died away, and left us almost becalmed for a few hours, when it veered around to the northwest, suddenly, and freshened into a stiff breeze, which wafted us nearly to the Straits of Magellan, as quick, I think, as ever vessel sped before the wind. Here the wind, without seeming to cease for a moment, turned into the south and blew a perfect gale. We hove her to under close reefed main-top-sail, for five days, when we wore ship, and stood in shore, the wind still continuing in the south. The Captain concluded to try the Straits the next day, rather than risk doubling the Cape with such a wind.
The Straits of Magellan lie in about 53° south latitude, and were discovered by Fernando Magellan, whose name they bear; they are about 350 miles long, and are at the Pacific entrance, 25 miles wide, and the eastern side about 20. In some parts they are not more than a league broad. The general form is that of a crescent, while the whole course is zigzag. The Pacific side is several feet the highest, causing a current so strong as to bid defiance to its passage from the eastern side. The sides are lined with high and craggy rocks, rising almost perpendicularly. Over them the Magellan clouds, so called from their position, always are seen, and to a great distance, apprising the mariner of his proximity to the almost only place which he allows himself to fear,—Cape Horn.
The next morning came with the wind still blowing from the south; we made preparations for entering the Straits as was proposed. The flaws of wind which struck the vessel with the strong current, hurried us on with the rapidity of lightning. We were obliged to stand by the halyards and braces constantly, night and day, so often were we called upon to tack ship, in consequence of the many crooked turnings in our course, and flaws of wind which struck us from all quarters, breaking over the high rocks, which lined the straits.
The rocks which lined the shore were capped with snow and ice, which seemed ready to fall and crush us. Innumerable quantities of seals were seen lying along the shore. Shrimp and penguins also were seen in great numbers.
As we neared the Atlantic side, the wind and the force of the current became less. This distance was performed in forty-five hours from the time we entered the western side; and during the time not a man of us left the deck, except in pursuance of some order.
Getting a good offing, we shaped our course for Buenos Ayres, where we landed, six weeks after leaving San Blass. Discharging our cargo, we were allowed a little time on shore, which I readily improved in wandering about the city. The La Plata, on which Buenos Ayres stands at a distance of 200 miles, is about 170 miles wide at its mouth, and can be navigated by large ships to a distance of 800 miles.
The situation of the city is delightful. The houses are built of brick, with flat roofs, and of one story usually, though some are seen two stories high; a garden is usually attached.
The public buildings are a Palace, Royal Chapel, a most magnificent Cathedral, and many Churches. The principal square faces the La Plata, and is indeed very spacious.