There is no harbor at Buenos Ayres; and ships can only come within seven or eight miles of the town, where they discharge their cargoes into lighters, which take them ashore.
The population is about 70,000, consisting of whites, Indians, and negroes. Slaves are quite numerous, and are treated much better than in any other place I ever visited. The old are particularly well attended to. The climate is indeed favorable to health. Violent winds are often-experienced, which raise clouds of dust, filling their houses completely, and almost entirely obscuring the sun.
CHAPTER XIII.
Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard, and resists the Police. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board the Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec for Dye-Stuffs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, &c. Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. Ride to Lima. Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. Again double the Cape on the wings of the wind. Arrival at Liverpool. Sketch of the City.
Getting in a cargo of dry goods, we set sail for San Blass. Smoothly we glided down the La Plata, having a gentle west wind which lasted till we made the Falklands.
Seemingly unwilling we should double the Cape with any degree of pleasantness, it veered round to the south, and freshening each moment, soon blew a hurricane which lasted thirty-six hours. When moderating, and at the same time shifting into the east, we braced full, and stood for the Cape; for eleven days the wind continued in the east, and gave us a fine passage around the Cape. We were accompanied on our way by a large Iceberg of the largest dimensions, which kept within half a mile of us for twenty-four hours.
The wind again, in a very accommodating manner, turned in our favor, driving us before it with great velocity under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail, for fourteen days, at which time we reached Valparaiso. Still favoring, though more lightly, we were enabled to reach San Blass in about the same time required for the outward bound voyage. Discharging our cargo we were paid off. I then went to the city of San Blass, which is five or six miles from the beach. As I remained there but a short time, I cannot be expected to give a full account of the city, which is situated on an eminence which rises an hundred or two feet gradually from the sea; and is enclosed by a huge wall, having only two gates or entrances into it. One of these is on the north side; the other, on the west side. A part of the wall which faces the sea, is built upon a ledge of rocks which rise almost perpendicular, and forms an impregnable barrier. The walls are heavily mounted with guns on the side towards the sea, and manned continually. The dwellings are mostly built of stone of ancient architecture; low and covered with tiles. The streets are narrow and dirty, though mostly paved with stone. Dissipation is carried in every thing to a great length. The inhabitants are, in a great degree, low and sensual. One day, while on shore, I traded with a Spaniard, with whom I had a few hasty words; his insolence I could not bear, and gave him a severe blow which felled him to the ground. Seeing the police on the alert I ran for the sea. Soon they overtook me. I gave the first one a blow, and threw him over a wall down a bank of a few feet. Finding more than I could easily handle, I surrendered. I was taken before the governor, who caused me to be placed in the stocks for twenty-four hours.