Dec. 13th. Marched at the usual hour; passed large springs, and the supposed Spanish camp; crossed at twelve o'clock a dividing ridge,[III-8] and immediately fell on a small branch running N. 20° W. There being no appearance of wood, we left it and the Spanish trace to our right, and made for the hills to encamp. After the halt I took my gun and went out to see what discovery I could make. After marching about two miles north, fell on a river 40 yards wide, frozen over; which, after some investigation, I found ran northeast. This was the occasion of much surprise, as we had been taught to expect to meet with the branches of Red river, which should run southeast. Query: Must it not be the headwaters of the river Platte? [Answer: You are on the South Platte, at the head of Eleven Mile cañon.] If so, the Missouri must run much more west than is generally represented; for the Platte is a small river, by no means presenting an expectation of so extensive a course. One horse gave out and was left. Distance 18 miles.
Sunday, Dec. 14th. Marched; struck the river, ascended it four miles, and encamped on the north side.[III-9] The prairie, being about two miles wide, was covered for at least six miles along the banks of the river with horse-dung and the marks of Indian camps, which had been made since cold weather, as was evident by the fires which were in the center of the lodges. The sign made by their horses was astonishing, and would have taken a thousand horses some months. As it was impossible to say which course the Spaniards had pursued, amongst this multiplicity of signs, we halted early, and discovered that they or the savages had ascended the river. We determined to pursue them, as the geography of the country had turned out to be so different from our expectations. We were somewhat at a loss which course to pursue, unless we attempted to cross the snow-capped mountains to the southeast of us, which was almost impossible. Burst one of our rifles, which was a great loss, as it made three guns which had burst; five had been broken on the march, and one of my men was now armed with my sword and pistols. Killed two buffaloes.
Dec. 15th. After repairing our guns we marched, but were obliged to leave another horse. Ascended the river, both sides of which were covered with old Indian camps, at which we found corn-cobs. This induced us to believe that those savages, although erratic, must remain long enough in one position to cultivate this grain, or obtain it of the Spaniards. From their sign they must have been extremely numerous, and possessed vast numbers of horses. My poor fellows suffered extremely with cold, being almost naked. Distance 10 miles.[III-10]
Dec. 16th. Marched up the river about two miles and killed a buffalo; when, finding no road up the stream, we halted and dispatched parties in different courses, the doctor and myself ascending high enough to enable me to lay down the course of the river into the mountains. From a high ridge we reconnoitered the adjacent country, and concluded, putting the Spanish trace out of the question, to bear our course southwest, for the head of Red river.[III-11] One of our party found a large camp, which had been occupied by at least 3,000 Indians, with a large cross in the middle. Query: Are those people Catholics? [Answer: No—party of Comanches and Kiowas, among whom was James Pursley.]
Dec. 17th. Marched; and on striking a left-hand fork of the river we had left, found it to be the main branch [of the South Platte]; ascended it to some distance, but finding it to bear too much to the north, we encamped about two miles from it, for the purpose of benefiting by its water. Distance 15 miles.[III-12]
Dec. 18th. Marched, and crossed the mountain [one of the Trout Creek Pass hills] which lay southwest of us; in a distance of seven miles arrived at a small spring. Some of our lads observed that they supposed it to be Red river, to which I then gave very little credit. On entering a gap in the next mountain [of the Park range], came past an excellent spring, which formed a fine [Trout] creek. This we followed through narrows in the mountains for about six miles. Found many evacuated camps of Indians, the latest yet seen. After pointing out the ground for the encampment, the doctor and myself went on to make discoveries, as was our usual custom, and in about four miles' march we struck what we supposed to be Red river [but was the Arkansaw], which here was about 25 yards wide, ran with great rapidity, and was full of rocks. We returned to the party with the news, which gave general pleasure. Determined to remain a day or two in order to examine the source. Snowing. Distance 18 miles.[III-13]
Dec. 19th. Marched down the creek near the opening of the prairie, and encamped;[III-14] sent out parties hunting, etc., but had no success. Still snowing and stormy; making preparations to take an observation.
Dec. 20th. Having found a fine place for pasture on the river, sent our horses down to it with a guard; also, three parties out hunting, all of whom returned without success. Took an observation. As there was no prospect of killing any game, it was necessary that the party should leave that place. I therefore determined that the doctor and Baroney should descend the river in the morning; that myself and two men would ascend; and that the rest of the party should descend after the doctor, until they obtained provisions and could wait for me.
Sunday, Dec. 21st. The doctor and Baroney marched; the party remained for me to take a meridional observation; after which we separated. Myself and the two men who accompanied me, Mountjoy and Miller, ascended 12 miles[III-15] and encamped on the north side. The river continued close to the north mountain [Park range], running through a narrow rocky channel in some places not more than 20 feet wide and at least 10 feet deep. Its banks were bordered by yellow pine, cedar, etc.
Dec. 22d. Marched up [the Arkansaw] 13 miles,[III-16] to a large point of the mountain, whence we had a view at least 35 miles, to where the river entered the mountains; it being at that place not more than 10 or 15 feet wide, and properly speaking, only a brook. From this place, after taking the course and estimating the distance, we returned to our camp of last evening. Killed one turkey and a hare.