Dec. 23d. Marched early, and at two o'clock discovered the trace of our party on the opposite side of the river; forded it, although extremely cold, and marched until some time in the night, when we arrived at the second night's encampment[III-17] of our party. Our clothing was frozen stiff, and we ourselves were considerably benumbed.
Dec. 24th. The party's provisions extended only to the 23d, and their orders were not to halt until they killed some game, and then wait for us; consequently they might have been considerably advanced. About eleven o'clock met Dr. Robinson on a prairie, who informed me that he and Baroney had been absent from the party two days without killing anything, also without eating; but that overnight they had killed four buffaloes, and that he was in search of the men. I suffered the two lads [Miller, Mountjoy] with me to go to the camp where the meat was, as we had also been nearly two days without eating. The doctor and myself pursued the trace and found them encamped on the river-bottom. Sent out horses for the meat. Shortly afterward Sparks arrived and informed us he had killed four cows. Thus, from being in a starving condition, we had eight beeves in our camp.[III-18]
We now again found ourselves all assembled together on Christmas Eve, and appeared generally to be content, although all the refreshment we had to celebrate that day with was buffalo meat, without salt, or any other thing whatever. My little excursion up the river had been in order to establish the geography of the sources of the supposed Red river. As I well knew that the indefatigable researches of Dr. Hunter, [William] Dunbar, and [Thomas] Freeman had left nothing unnoticed in the extent of their voyage up said river, I determined that its upper branches should be equally well explored. In this voyage I had already ascertained the sources of the [Little] Osage and White [Neosho] rivers, been round the head of the Kans river [i. e., above the confluence of its Smoky Hill and Republican forks], and on the headwaters of the [South] Platte.
Dec. 25th. It being stormy weather and having meat to dry, I concluded to lie by this day. Here I must take the liberty of observing that, in this situation, the hardships and privations we underwent were on this day brought more fully to our mind, having been accustomed to some degree of relaxation, and extra enjoyments. But here, 800 miles from the frontiers of our country, in the most inclement season of the year—not one person clothed for the winter—many without blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for socks, etc., and now lying down at night on the snow or wet ground, one side burning whilst the other was pierced with the cold wind—such was in part the situation of the party, whilst some were endeavoring to make a miserable substitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes, etc. I will not speak of diet, as I conceive that to be beneath the serious consideration of a man on a voyage of such a nature. We spent the day as agreeably as could be expected from men in our situation.
Caught a bird of a new species [Conurus carolinensis] having made a trap for him. This bird was of a green color, almost the size of a quail, had a small tuft on its head like a pheasant, and was of the carnivorous species; it differed from any bird we ever saw in the United States. We kept him with us in a small wicker cage, feeding him on meat, until I left the interpreter on the Arkansaw, with whom I left it. We at one time took a companion of the same species and put them in the same cage, when the first resident never ceased attacking the stranger until he killed him.
Dec. 26th. Marched at two o'clock and made 7½ miles to the entrance of the mountains.[III-19] On this piece of prairie the river spreads considerably, and forms several small islands; a large stream [South Arkansaw] enters from the south. As my boy and some others were sick, I omitted pitching our tent in order that they might have it; in consequence of which we were completely covered with snow on top, as well as that part on which we lay.
Dec. 27th. Marched over an extremely rough road; our horses received frequent falls, and cut themselves considerably on the rocks. From there being no roads of buffalo, or signs of horses, I am convinced that neither those animals, nor the aborigines of the country, ever take this route, to go from the source of the river out of the mountains; but that they must cross one of the chains to the right or left, and find a smoother tract to the lower country. Were obliged to unload our horses and carry the baggage at several places. Distance 12½ miles.[III-20]
Sunday, Dec. 28th. Marched over an open space [Pleasant Valley]; and, from the appearance before us, concluded we were going out of the mountains; but at night encamped at the entrance of the most perpendicular precipices on both sides, through which the river ran and our course lay. Distance 16 miles.[III-21]
Dec. 29th. Marched; but owing to the extreme ruggedness of the road, made but five miles.[III-22] Saw one of a new species of animal on the mountains; ascended to kill him, but did not succeed. Finding the impossibility of getting along with the horses, made one sled, which with the men of three horses, carries their load [i. e., on which the men dragged the loads of three horses].