The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery / With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

by Alexis Soyer

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Every attempt has been made to replicate the original as printed. Some typographical errors have been corrected; . Variations in spellings have not been normalized (i.e. sweatbreads / sweetbreads, macaroons / maccarroons, chou-crout / chou-croute, semoulina / semolina, tomata / tomate / tomato, mackarel / mackerel, etc.) In certain versions of this etext, in certain browsers, clicking on this symbol will bring up a larger version of the illustration. [Table of Contents] [General Contents] (etext transcriber's note)

A
SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW
SYSTEM OF COOKERY,
WITH NEARLY
TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS
SUITED TO THE INCOME OF ALL CLASSES.
ILLUSTRATED WITH
NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS
AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE
KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE,
ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED.

BY
MONSIEUR A. SOYER,
OF THE REFORM CLUB.
SIXTH EDITION.
LONDON:
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT:
AND SOLD BY
JOHN OLLIVIER, PALL-MALL.
1849.

Barff Tucker, del. J. Walmsley, sculp.

TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE.

Your Royal Highness,

The gracious condescension which permits of the dedication of this Work to your Royal Highness, adds another to the many claims upon my devotedness and my gratitude.

I have the high honour to be
Your Royal Highness’
Most obedient and humble Servant,
ALEXIS SOYER.

THE FOLLOWING DISTINGUISHED PERSONS HAVE HONOURED THE AUTHOR WITH THEIR APPROBATION, AND THIS VOLUME, WITH THE KITCHEN PLAN OF THE REFORM CLUB, WERE COMMENCED UNDER THEIR PATRONAGE.

H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge. Ernest reigning Duke of Saxe-Cobourg. H. R. H. the Duke of Sussex. H. R. H. the Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Cobourg and Gotha. H. R. H. the Prince of Prussia. Archduke Frederic of Austria. Prince Biron de Courlande. Princess Clementine of France. The Duke of Leinster. The Duke of Bedford. The Duchess of Sutherland. La Duchesse d’Escars. La Duchesse de Lorges. La Duchesse de Valmy. The Countess of Essex. The Countess of Carlisle. The Dowager Marchioness of Downshire. The Countess of Clare. The Countess of Craven. The Baroness de Ludwigsdorff (Sweden.) Lady Eliza Phillips. Lady Flower. Lady Throgmorton. Lady Elibank. The Marquis of Ailsa. The Marquis of Normanby. The Marquis of Lansdowne. The Marquis of Clanricarde. The Marquis of Titchfield. The Marquis of Headfort. The Marquis of Salisbury. Marquieza das Minas. Marquieza das Furjel. The Earl Fortescue. The Earl of Pembroke. The Earl of Chesterfield. The Earl of Devon. The Earl of Yarborough. The Earl of Charlemont. The Count Hatzfeldt (Prussia). Count Woronzow. Countess Woronzow.

The Earl Grosvenor. The Earl of Clarendon. The Earl of Sefton. Le Baron de Molartie (great Echanson to the King of Hanover). Le Baron Adolphe de Rothschild. La Baronne de Rothschild. La Baronne de Weiber (Baden). Le Comte de Rancher (France). Le Comte de Pradel (France). Lord Ebrington. Lord Dinorben. Lord Maidstone. Lord Marcus Hill, M.P. Le Vicomte de Noailles (France). Viscount Duncannon. Lord James Stuart. Lord Mostyn. Lord Jermyn. Lord Say and Sele. Lord Dudley Coutts Stuart. Lord Panmure. Lord F. Gordon. Lord Hastings. Lord Scarborough. Lord Nugent. Lord Lovat. Lord Templetown. Lord Clement. Lord Augustus Fitzclarence. Lord Vivian. Sir George Chetwynd. Sir Benjamin Hall, M.P. Sir Henry Webb. Sir Andrew Leith Hay, M.P. Sir D. Le Marchant. Sir John Guest, M.P. Sir Hesketh Fleetwood, M.P. Sir James Duke, M.P. Sir John Easthope, M.P. Sir. R. Musgrave. Le Chevalier A. Mongaldi (Venice). Sir John M’Neil.

Sir Henry Pottinger. The Right Honorable Fox Maule, M.P. The Honorable H. R. Westenra. The Honorable J. O. Murray. Lieutenant-Colonel Westenra. Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon. Major-General Evans. Admiral Dundas, M.P. General Sir Alexander Duff, Bart. General Johnson. Le General Baron de Farincourt (France.) Colonel Sir William Robert Clayton. Colonel White. Colonel Beckwith. Major Richardson. Captain Noble Cæsar de Ladacio (Naples). Lieut. Gen. Baron de Warlington (Bavaria). Capitaine de Vaisseaux F. Gautier (France). Admiral Codrington. El Gen. Martin Joié de Triarte (Spain). Captain Robert Scherger (Cobourg). The Honorable General Mead. The Honorable Captain Vivian, M.P. Daniel O’Connell, Esq., M.P. Maurice O’Connell, Esq., M.P. John O’Connell, Esq., M.P. George Duncan, Esq., M.P. Edward Ellice, Esq., M.P. Robert Archbold, Esq., M.P. The Rev. Charles Turnor, D.D. Captain Wemyss. Alston, Rowland, Esq. Basevi, George, Esq. Bryane, W. C. Esq. (America).

Bavin Christopher, Esq. Boyd, W. Esq. Buckland, James, Esq. Hawes, B. Esq. M. Dusillion, Architect, Paris. Barry, Charles, Esq. Bonverie, Edward Pleydell, Esq. Collins, William, M.D. Clumy, Thomas, Esq. Clayton, John, Lloyd, Esq. Diwett, Thomas, Esq. Dardel, Monsieur de. Dann, Henry, Esq. Faraday, Professor. Gully, John, Esq. Gunston, John, Esq. Gordon, Robert, Esq. Hoare, Charles, Esq. Harmer, James, Esq. Hope, ——, Esq Hovenden, J. E. Esq. Humphrey, John, Alderman, M.P. Melik, A. Esq., (Turkey). Montefiore, N. Esq. Murphy, Mr. Sergeant. Oliviera, Benjamin, Esq. O’Brien, Stafford, Esq. Perkins, Frederic, Esq. Philips, Mark, Esq., M.P. Prescott, H. Esq. Rushton, E. A. Esq. Strutt, Edward, Esq., M.P. Sampayo, O. H. Esq. F. A. Sarg, Esq. Wolfe, J. L. Esq.

PREFACE.

AT the request of several persons of distinction, who have visited the Reform Club,—particularly the ladies, to whom I have always made it a rule never to refuse anything in my power, for indeed it must have been the fair sex who have had the majority in this domestic argument to gain this gastronomical election,—Why do you not write and publish a Cookery-book? was a question continually put to me. For a considerable time this scientific word caused a thrill of horror to pervade my frame, and brought back to my mind that one day, being in a most superb library in the midst of a splendid baronial hall, by chance I met with one of Milton’s allegorical works, the profound ideas of Locke, and several chefs-d’œuvre of one of the noblest champions of literature, Shakspeare; when all at once my attention was attracted by the nineteenth edition of a voluminous work: such an immense success of publication caused me to say, “Oh! you celebrated man, posterity counts every hour of fame upon your regretted ashes!” Opening this work with intense curiosity, to my great disappointment what did I see,—a receipt for Ox-tail Soup! The terrifying effect produced upon me by this succulent volume made me determine that my few ideas, whether culinary or domestic, should never encumber a sanctuary which should be entirely devoted to works worthy of a place in the Temple of the Muses.

But you must acknowledge, respected readers, how changeable and uncertain are our feeble ideas through life; to keep the promise above mentioned, I have been drawn into a thousand gastronomic reflections, which have involved me in the necessity of deviating entirely from my former opinion, and have induced me to bring before the public the present volume, under the title of ‘The Gastronomic Regenerator,’ throughout which I have closely followed the plain rules of simplicity, so that every receipt can not only clearly be understood, but easily executed.

I now sincerely hope, Ladies, that I have not only kept my promise, but to your satisfaction paid tribute to your wishes.

You have not forgotten, dear reader, the effect that monstrous volume, the said nineteenth edition, produced upon me, therefore I now sincerely beg of you to put my book in a place suited to its little merit, and not with Milton’s sublime Paradise, for there it certainly would be doubly lost.

PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION.

THE sale of three editions of the Gastronomic Regenerator in less than nine months, is so gratifying to my feelings, that I should be wanting in courtesy, were I not publicly to express, at this present moment, how grateful I am for the very flattering testimonials I have been honoured with by the press, through whom I have received such great encouragement from the public, who so handsomely repaid the laborious work which I have devoted to the gastronomic art.

In this the Fourth Edition, I have increased and improved the receipts, and corrected those errors which unavoidably occur in so voluminous a work.

The first improvement is a most essential one, being an abbreviated table of contents, referring from number to number or article to article, and giving in a few pages the translation of every comestible, which will much facilitate the making of bills of fare.

The second and still more important improvement is my new Tendon Separator, demonstrated by a scientific woodcut, with full explanations of its valuable use in preparing poultry and game for the table.

I have added several new receipts, communicated by amateurs, which are not deficient in good taste.

There will likewise be found a correct engraving of my Bouquet de Gibier, which met with so much success in London and Paris last Christmas, and offers to noblemen and gentlemen a new and pleasing mode of making presents of game.

The one I presented to His Majesty Louis Philippe, with a copy of this work, met with the highest approbation from the court of France, and was most handsomely acknowledged by his Majesty.

I now most humbly return thanks to the public for their kind encouragement, and trust that the success I have hitherto had may still be continued.

ALEXIS SOYER.

DUBLIN;
St. Patrick’s Day, 1847.

IMPORTANT.
DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPOSITION OF THIS WORK.

To sustain and deserve the title of “Gastronomic Regenerator,” nothing but an entire change from the system of any other publication on the art of Cookery would be admissible, it is now in the hands of my readers to judge for themselves, and to stamp its character according to its merits, either as an original or a copy; to avoid the last, however, I have closely studied to introduce the greatest novelty in every department, and have entirely omitted all unnecessary confusion, which, in many previous works, have rendered them unintelligible to the uninitiated, and almost impracticable to the initiated; however, many old and useful receipts, too good to be omitted, will be found much simplified—to reduce them to a practical point.

I have also minutely studied the disposing and arranging of the building of all sized kitchens, from the one of the Reform Club and the Kitchen of the Wealthy to the humble one of the cottage, which cannot fail to prove useful when closely followed, as six years of experience in the kitchen of the Reform Club[1] has fully proved to me that those useful departments have not only previously been much neglected, but in many instances at a very great expense still worse arranged for want of practical knowledge, and considering that the pleasures of the table are an every-day enjoyment which reflects good and evil on all classes, my readers I am sure will agree with me that the proper disposing of such an important department deserves some little attention, for food uncomfortably prepared is almost always unsightly, unwholesome, and consequently indigestible, not being cleanly prepared.

I have likewise omitted in this work the placing of a long series of bills of fare, which has been done in every previous publication; although they might have proved useful in some few circumstances, they are seldom referred to, and often create confusion in the composition of a dinner by the difficulty of procuring perhaps the identical comestibles required in the receipts which the bills of fare refer to; and more I would venture to say, that in no circumstances have those bills of fare been correctly followed; the only three I have introduced being one to arrange my pagodatique service to grace the Table of the Wealthy, the other the Lucullusian dinner, and the dinner of my Table at Home, which will give a general idea of the manner in which I usually compose my bills of fare, which of course may be increased or decreased to any size. To avoid the old-fashioned method of giving ten or twelve for every season in the year, I have made the whole contents of my book one regular bill of fare, which will enable the most inexperienced cook, or young lady just commencing housekeeping, to compose a recherché or economical bill of fare at will, being so distributed, that after a short series of sauces the bill of fare commences, being first the soups, then the fish, then the hors-d’œuvres, or flying dishes, to be handed round the table during the time the removes and entrées are placing upon it; this is the usual manner I serve a dinner, which cannot fail to be very hot; and to prevent confusion, which too often occurs, I place a number on a piece of paper between the cover and the dish, with a corresponding number to the name of the dish upon the bill of fare, which is then forwarded to the steward, who by this means not only understands the better placing it upon the table, but is able to answer to any questions respecting the dinner, thus saving time and confusion; and, above all, the dinner will be very hot and inviting, which would not be the case in the regular system of laying out the whole of the first course first upon the kitchen table, having to uncover every dish unnecessarily, then upon another table in a room adjoining the dining-room, and third and last, upon the dining-table, adding to which the chance of confusion and innumerable delays, in which your dinner is getting quite cold. In a plate service of sixteen entrées, which I was directed by the committee of the Reform Club to order, I introduced silver sand concealed in the heaters; thus by placing them two hours in a hot closet previous to serving, they will retain their heat nearly a couple of hours longer upon the table, but for further details, see Pagodatique Dish at the end of the book. But to return to the arrangement of my book: after the hors-d’œuvres come the removes, flancs, entrées, in succession in the first course, and for the second the roasts, savoury dishes, vegetables, entremets, and removes second course; thus my readers will have but to turn from one series to another in succession to arrange their bills of fare.

For any description of plain joints frequently required in the first course, they will be found at the commencement of the series entitled My Kitchen at Home.

For a public breakfast, luncheon, or suppers, where everything is partly cold, the series of savoury dishes in the second course will be found to facilitate and very much abbreviate the composition of the bill of fare for either of the above purposes.

In the department entitled My Kitchen at Home will be found the same arrangements, and the repetition of many dishes from the Kitchen of the Wealthy, but so much simplified that the industrious classes of society may partake freely of them at a very moderate expense.

I shall also remark that my motive in not making a translation to my index, but merely naming at the commencement of each series the different comestibles, is to avoid the following ridiculous occurrence, that is, the making of bills of fare in English from such curious translation, not one of which have I seen deserving publication, being composed of comic French trivialité.

As it is not the name that makes the dish, I have only explained the names of the different articles by way of distinction; I have also mixed several headings in French and English, to instruct by degrees the uninitiated in the art of making a correct bill of fare; I have also, in every place where the heading is in French, endeavoured to place the name of the comestible in the first line of the receipt. The reference by numbers will be found unavoidably repeated in many instances, especially those referring to stocks, sauces, pastes, or any of those articles which are the foundations of any others, which will be easily remembered after a few weeks’ practice without having recourse to the index.

My readers will probably also feel interested in knowing that, although for some time it has been my intention to write a work upon Gastronomy, the laborious and difficult duties which I had to fulfil at the Reform Club, added to the terrific effect which has produced upon me the 19th edition of that monstrous volume mentioned in the preface, have often been the cause of my giving up such an idea, and having destroyed my old manuscripts, it is only within the last ten months that I in reality commenced afresh this work, in which lapse of time I had to furnish 25,000 dinners for the gentlemen of the Reform Club, and 38 dinner parties of importance, comprising above 70,000 dishes, and to provide daily for 60 servants of the establishment, independent of about 15,000 visitors who have seen the kitchen department in that lapse of time.

Although I am entirely satisfied with the composition, distribution, and arrangement of my book, should some few little mistakes be discovered they will be the more excusable under those circumstances, as in many instances I was unable to devote that tedious time required for correction; and, although I have taken all possible care to prescribe, by weight and measure, the exact quantity of ingredients used in the following receipts for the seasoning and preparing of all kinds of comestibles, I must observe that the ingredients are not all either of the same size or quality; for instance, some eggs are much larger than others, some pepper stronger, salt salter, and even some sugar sweeter. In vegetables, again, there is a considerable difference in point of size and quality; fruit is subject to the same variation, and, in fact, all description of food is subject to a similar fluctuation. I am far, however, from taking these disproportions for excuses, but feel satisfied if the medium of the specified ingredients be used, and the receipts in other respects closely followed, nothing can hinder success.

SOYER’S NEW MODE OF CARVING.
&c. &c. &c.

YOU are all aware, honorable readers, of the continual tribulation in carving at table, for appetites more or less colossal, and when all eyes are fixed upon you with anxious avidity. Very few persons are perfect in this useful art, which requires not only grace, but a great deal of skill. Others become very nervous; many complain of the knife, which has not the least objection to be found fault with; or else they say, this capon, pheasant, or poularde is not young, and consequently not of the best quality. You may sometimes be right, but it certainly often happens that the greatest gourmet is the worst carver, and complains sadly during that very long process, saying to himself, “I am last to be served; my dinner will be cold.”

Reproaches of this kind are daily addressed to the culinary artiste, who remembers perfectly well having burned his fingers whilst sending up those important removes. To illustrate this just question I will relate a curious and historic anecdote:—having one day served a petit diner, très recherché, for five persons, in which was a poularde à l’ambassadrice, a new and rather voluminous dish of mine, after the first course a message was sent to me that the gentlemen had found that dish so good they regretted I had not sent two poulardes instead of one; at first I took this message for a pleasantry, but a short time after three parts of the poularde came down in a state that if exposed over a laundry door would have served for a sign, without having recourse to those popular words, “mangling done here;” the sight of a dish so greatly disfigured made me collect a few of my little culinary ideas. Nature, says I to myself, compels us to dine more or less once a day; each of those days you are, honorable reader, subject to meet en tête-à-tête with a fowl, poularde, duck, pheasant, or other volatile species; is it not bad enough to have sacrificed the lives of those animaux bienfaisans to satisfy our indefatigable appetites, without pulling and tearing to atoms the remains of our benefactors? It is high time for the credit of humanity and the comfort of quiet families, to put an end to the massacre of those innocents.

Amongst other tribulations of carving I shall relate a most boufonne anecdote. “If you should, unhappily, be forced to carve at table,” says Launcelot Sturgeon, in his Essays, Moral, Philosophical, and Stomachic, “neither labour at the joint until you put yourself into a heat, nor make such a desperate effort to dissect it as may put your neighbours in fear of their lives; however, if any accident should happen, make no excuses, for they are only an acknowledgment of awkwardness. We remember to have seen a man of high fashion deposit a turkey in this way in the lap of a lady, but with admirable composure, and without offering the slightest apology, he finished a story which he was telling at the same time, and then, quietly turning to her, merely said, ‘Madam, I’ll thank you for that turkey.’” My conscience will not allow me to swear to the authenticity of the fact, but in the course of twelve months past I have witnessed a very similar instance, only the party not possessing the assurance of the fashionable above mentioned, did not continue the conversation, but in his nervous anxiety, endeavouring to replace it on the dish with vivacity, sent it rolling across the table to his right-hand neighbour, who quickly perceiving the imminent danger in which he was placed, fortunately arrested its further progress with his fork. One hearty laugh of the remaining party terminated this scene of confusion.

After a short consideration I found, by a most simple rule, and with the greatest facility, that a bird that would take ten minutes to carve very badly may be done well in two or three by the most inexperienced person. From this process a number of advantages may be derived: first, you may eat your dinner much hotter; secondly, you can make eight or ten pieces of a fowl, or any other bird, where, previously, great difficulty was experienced in making five or six; and each person will thereby be enabled to choose a favorite piece; a large bird, such as turkey, poularde, capon, &c., will be fit to reappear on your table in a very inviting state. I must also observe that the birds are not in the least disfigured, but, on the contrary, their appearance is much improved.

DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.

By the simple process which I have effected for the jointing of game or small poultry, with a long pointed pair of scissors, separating the sinews which join the wings to the breast, making the incision as small as possible, and also jointing the legs, by passing your finger between the skin and the flesh, pressing the legs over the breast with the left hand, the separation of the joints may be easily effected and having thus detached the four principal parts, the carving, when roasted, will be very simple. But for the jointing of large birds, as turkeys, geese, capons, &c., procure an instrument I invented for that purpose from Bramah’s, Piccadilly, with which a very intelligible printed direction will be given for its use; after having jointed the bird, truss it with a packing-needle and string, as usual, but not pressing them so tightly, or they would become deformed, whilst, on the contrary, if merely brought to their usual shape, they will look as plump as possible, and the process they have previously undergone will be totally imperceptible. In many instances where I have sent poultry to table thus previously jointed, the parties carving have been quite surprised at their unexpected progress in that difficult art. Formerly nothing was more difficult to carve than wild fowl, the continual motion (when alive) of the wings and legs making the sinews almost as tough as wires, puzzling the best of carvers to separate them; my new method has quite abolished such a domestic tribulation. A long and dry description for the carving of each bird separately would be entirely useless, as every one of my readers will have perceived that almost the whole difficulty is defeated by this simple process; I shall therefore leave the subject, making but the following observation, which is, that in everything I dislike a straight line, and still more so in carving any kind of bird, by doing which you not only spoil their appearance, but cut against the grain, causing them to eat dry and, imperceptibly, obliging you to assist some of the guests to very thick pieces, unless the breast is very full and plump. I have here given a simple woodcut of a small turkey, by which you will easily perceive, that by trussing and carving in my new way, as represented, you will be enabled to carve for more people, assisting each to better slices with a middling-sized fowl, or any other bird, than with a larger one trussed and carved in the usual method. Keep, if possible, the legs in the position indicated in the design; any small birds, such as woodcocks, plovers, snipes, or teal, are generally cut into two or four, being easily carved, but for anything above their size the foregoing plan had better be acted upon.

Respecting the carving of any description of joints, it may be more simply explained. For a saddle of mutton or lamb, proceed precisely as directed for the saddle-back (page 644), and for a round or nitchbone of beef, proceed as scientifically explained (pages 641-3) by the carver of this mighty dish.

For the ribs or sirloin of beef, pass the knife between the chinebone and the flesh to about an inch in depth, but only to about the length you think sufficient to cut as many slices from as you may require; then having a sharp knife, cut off the outside slice very thinly (which, if roasted according to my new plan, will be very good, especially where parties have an objection to their meat the least underdone); hold your knife a little in a slanting direction, and continue cutting thin slices from the chine to the end, especially with the ribs, which are more lean, but it is preferable to leave all the ends of the sirloin in the dish as you carve, if not wanted, or after having carved two or three plates you are forced to dig the lean out, which is not only often, but generally done in a club-house where a scientific carver is not employed; if a slice from a fillet of a sirloin is required, the servant must take the joint to the sideboard, and turn it over with a couple of forks; when again placed upon the table, the carver must carefully part some of the fat which covers it, if too much, then cut short slices in a slanting direction, as if from the breast of a fowl, instead of crosswise, for then if clumsily carved and overdone it has a strong resemblance to an old strap.

For a rump of beef, either roasted or stewed, always commence at the fattest end, carving in a slanting direction, by which means you will obtain a correct quantity of that delicate article, if even you should be carving for twenty people, whilst by cutting straight across, some would have the greater proportion fat and the remainder nothing but lean. Any other piece of beef rolled and stewed, and fillets of beef, as served for a remove, all require to be carved in a slanting direction.

For a fillet of veal, proceed in the same manner as directed for a round of beef.

A loin of veal, if cut straight at the commencement, is entirely spoiled, but when carved slantingly (if well done from the best end), and eaten with its own gravy, nothing could be nicer, the remaining is then also very good cold, even the kidney ought to be served the same; and the breasts, either roasted or stewed, require the same style of carving.

For legs of mutton or lamb I also proceed in a new way: the frill, which is placed upon the knuckle-bone, is not only intended to ornament the leg, but likewise to enable you to hold the bone with your left hand, and carving with the right, which would wonderfully facilitate the operation. Instead of cutting across the middle, which opens all parts at once, thus losing a great deal of the succulence, I commence carving at about two inches from the knuckle, beginning with the heel of the knife, drawing it along to the point, cutting six or eight slices at once, more or less if required, then pass the knife beneath the whole, detaching them from the bone, thus helping each person quickly and with very hot meat, the gravy remaining in the meat will keep it moistened in good order for cold, whilst in the general manner you have nothing but dry meat, or if underdone on purpose for cold, the meat will always have a black appearance. This is my way of carving at home, but if objectionable to take the frill with the fingers, make use of the carving-fork; at home I never allow any gravy to be put into the dish, but served separately in a boat, but if the meat is of good quality it will supply (if well roasted) an abundance of good gravy. If for the table of the wealthy, commence carving the leg nearer to the centre, but always in a slanting direction.

For shoulders of mutton or lamb to eat well and delicate, the fat and lean must be well mixed in serving, to accomplish which the joint must be carved in a still more slanting direction than the legs, also beginning rather near to the knuckle.

For necks and loins of mutton, never separate the bones of either with a chopper, or you will partially mutilate the meat, thus losing all the gravy in roasting, and frequently have great difficulty in carving, but separate the joints with a small saw as neatly as possible, cutting in the direction you require to carve.

For ribs of lamb, which should be properly prepared for carving before being roasted, having the centre of the bones broken, with the chine-bone detached; to carve, you must of course follow the bones, which run rather slantingly, helping each person to a cutlet from the neck, with a slice of the breast, but not cut too thick; by following this plan, each person will have partaken of the breast, which, without contradiction, is the most delicate part (but which is most frequently left to be eaten when dry and cold), and if any remain, being evenly carved, will be very presentable to table on the following day.

To carve a ham proceed very similar to the manner directed for the carving of a leg of mutton, commencing two inches from the knuckle, cutting very thin and delicate slices, slanting more and more as you proceed, or you will have nothing but fat left at the extremity.

To carve an ox-tongue, stick your fork into the root, and cut a thin slice off, placing the heel of the knife upon it, which draw along to the point, thus taking the slice off in one cut, leaving it upon the dish, and serving the inner slices cut in the same manner, but very thin and delicate, you will thus have carved the best part of it easily without disfiguring the whole, still having a decent piece remaining for cold, but if you had commenced in the middle you would at once spoil the appearance, and the remainder would eat dry when cold.

Nothing is more creditable to a carver than leaving a piece of either meat, game, or poultry fit to reappear at table in an inviting state.

HOW TO CARVE A HAUNCH OF VENISON.

The above engraving represents a haunch of venison, cooked as No. 540, and ready for carving, the back-bone of the loin being first partly taken out to facilitate the operation, as marked by letters and lines in the drawing. The carving-knife must be sharp; put the point of it an inch deep from letter A to B, and draw it in a slanting direction from letter A to A, so on from B to B, but go a little deeper in, according to the thickness of your haunch, and avoid making a hole through any part of it, as a well must be reserved to give half a spoonful of gravy to every plate, each of two thin slices. If you are to help more than eight or ten persons from the haunch, then carve the loin at the same time as the thickest part, from C C to D D, and give to each guest a slice from each part, by which you will quickly perceive that you have fairly cut the meat, and that each person will have had his proper quantity of fat, and from first to last each slice will be very inviting; serve on very hot plates of silver if possible. Every amateur of venison knows, that without its due quantity of fat it is hardly eatable; I would therefore advise those who still wish to carve haunches on the old system, to calculate how many plates they have to carve for, otherwise they are sure to be misled, if they do not take the trouble to ascertain the number who are to be helped. My new system possesses an advantage, which is, that if six or eight persons only partake of a haunch, the remains of it are in a fine state, and fit to be cut into large slices for another dinner, by merely putting a few spoonfuls of gravy with the slices into a sautépan, over a sharp fire for three minutes; turn them carefully, season with little salt, a teaspoonful of currant jelly, turn the slices two or three times over until the jelly is dissolved, serve on a very hot dish, but be careful not to let the slices boil in the pan, or else they will become very tough. If any remain, make a hash as No. 784, or pie, No. 785.

ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL WAY.

When I am called to carve a haunch of venison for eighteen or twenty I proceed as follows: I take off the flat bone, previous to roasting, at the back of the loin, and pass the knife from the knuckle all along the lower part of the flap, which is left about two inches wide; I then begin to cut in a slanting direction, as the drawing represents, from the beginning of the loin, through the leg as far as the knuckle, without reserving a well for gravy, and in fact I have found it to be better, as every slice you cut through the leg produces its own gravy boiling hot, which unavoidably gets cold in the well formed the other way of carving. Do not omit to save some fat for the next day, as your hash or pie would be insipid.

Haunch of mutton or lamb may be carved either way.

For necks of venison, pass your knife across the lower part of the ribs, about four inches below the thickest part, then cut slices in a slanting direction, not interfering with the bone, as I have previously explained. For shoulders, see Shoulder of Mutton, page 645.

SADDLEBACK OF VENISON.

Having made a trial with Mr. Grove of Charing Cross of cutting a buck to produce a saddleback of venison, as I have done of mutton (page 644), we succeeded remarkably well, and obtained a most splendid joint that ever could be placed before an epicure; but if cannot be generally adopted, except in the country, where gentlemen keep their own park of deer, as we found it interfered with both legs, which look like legs of mutton, and deprived them of the best part of the fat, which cannot be dispensed with: in other respects they are excellent for pies.

I have also introduced a saucière, made like a coffee-pot, heated by a spirit-lamp underneath, filled with good veal or beef gravy, to be taken round to each guest; the great heat of the gravy poured over the slices of venison, mixed with the gravy already helped from the haunch, makes a fine thick mixture, by which this delightful and noble joint is really enjoyed; the currant jelly always served ought not to be too sweet or too firm.

French beans, usually served with venison, ought to be very young and green, well dried, and very hot when sent to table; in case they could not be obtained, send up cauliflower or young brocoli with it; however I must here observe, that these vegetables are very unpalatable, as nothing disagrees more with currant jelly than French beans and brocoli. I have substituted tomatas farci, as described No. 1099, when in season, and served on a silver dish: they were much approved of. Plain broiled tomatas must be cut across, with the juice extracted without breaking; then put on the gridiron, with salt and pepper, on a very sharp fire, turn them, when done dish up, add a little butter over each, and send very hot.

CARVING OF POULTRY.

A fowl which has been prepared with the Tendon Separator before roasting, can produce afterwards ten very inviting pieces, suitable to the fancy of as many guests.

In the first place you take a carving fork, which you stick in the breast, between figs. 5 and 6, then you give a cut at the fillet, beginning at 1 down to 2, where you make the point of the knife cut through the joint of the wing, which by twisting a little will easily come asunder. The same operation is done from 3 to 4; and without removing the fork, you slide the knife under the leg at 7, and the same at 8, and both legs will immediately separate. The next cut is to be given at 5 to 6, and afterwards the back is divided in the same direction as the last numbers—as each leg is divided at the joint commonly called drumstick, it completes the ten parts.

A Duck. The best part of a duck is the breast, which should be cut in fillets obliquely, then the wings and the legs, the same as the fowl, and the body in two.

A Pheasant. The best parts are the breast and legs, which are carved the same as a fowl.

A Partridge. The wings and the body are the best parts.

---

A roast Hare must be cut along the spine, from the neck downwards to obtain the fillets, which ought then to be divided in parts, in the same oblique direction as the ribs. The legs and shoulders are seldom carved, but they are, with the body, excellent in a hash or stewed.

SOYER’S TENDON SEPARATOR.

The woodcut at p. xxiii represents one of the most serviceable of instruments. Its object is to relieve carvers, more or less proficient, and must become indispensable for the use of all cooks and poulterers in disjointing the volatile species previous to trussing, roasting, or boiling.

To a clever carver, sitting at a homely table or public banquet, it matters little whether all eyes are fixed upon him or a fidgety footman is at his elbow. He quietly distributes the several dainties according to the fancy of the guests, and everything goes on in comfort. But to a person inexperienced, the notion of being placed at either end of the table, to stay the ravenous appetite of some of the guests, causes such a nervous excitement, that it is not an uncommon thing to see the splashing of sauce and gravy on those around—perchance the sudden appearance of an unfortunate limb flying with terrific velocity on a lady’s dress, the whole of the company being thus thrown into confusion—the poor carver’s apologies received with black looks, and the harmony of the party placed in jeopardy.

It is with a view to extricate society from such an awkward position that the inventor offers to the public the Tendon Separator, as a medium by which any gentleman may boldly take the carving-knife in hand, and be delighted to comply with the invitation of the Amphytrion: instead of inspiring fear, he will be admired for his ability in gracefully dividing a favorite piece of game or poultry.

The simplicity of the operation will easily convince any one that the Tendon Separator possesses all that is required to remove awkwardness in carving; the only necessity being to divide the tendons in the joints, the toughness of which is the difficulty to be overcome, and often abandoned to make a desperate cut at the bones; hence arise the accidents above mentioned.

The following instructions will enable all cooks and poulterers to prepare game and poultry for the table, perfectly free from opposition to any carver’s knife.

THE TENDON SEPARATOR

Is represented shut when done with, by merely slipping the brass ring to keep the spring in its place, and open when in the act of being used; the straight part of the handle, with the ring, resting in the palm of the hand between the thumb and the fore-finger. When about separating the tendons and otherwise dividing other parts of your fowl or bird, you begin by turning the skin over the wings and cutting the tendons (No. 1, p. xxiv) in each of the joints; and then by taking hold of that part commonly called the drumstick with your right hand and the skin being already turned, you can easily get at the joint (No. 2) by making it come out, to cut the tendons of each leg; on turning the Separator with the points upwards, you give a cut at the breast-bone (No. 4); and, by holding the instrument with both hands, immediately after turning the points downwards, you also give a cut at the back-bone (No. 5), and then, the four tendons being cut, the limbs are brought back to their former position. Then you introduce the instrument into the body at the other end of the bird, and with your left hand you take hold of the thigh-bone, which you also divide at No. 3, and again turning the points downwards, you give another cut at the back-bone No. 5; with little practice the cuts at the breast and back-bone, are made without interfering in the least with the skin; then you truss the bird in the common way, but a packing-needle and thread are to be preferred, as explained at page xv. When roasted, the appearance of the poultry is vastly improved by this simple operation, it looks more plump on account of the sinews having lost their power of contraction whilst roasting; therefore, when the bird

comes to table, the carver has merely to pass the knife in the usual manner to take up the wings and legs, and finds no resistance; the same at the breast and the back, where it may easily be seen whilst carving that it has already been prepared.

Three minutes is about the time taken by this new process to cut into ten parts an ordinary fowl.

For a Turkey or a Goose, the sinews are divided as above, and in the act of carving, instead of cutting the fillets in a straight line with the breast-bone, you separate them obliquely, and all other parts as usual.

Pheasants, Ducks, and all Wild Fowl especially, must be prepared in a similar manner.

A Hare or Rabbit may also have the sinews and back-bone divided; to effect this you lay the hare upon its back, and give six cuts nearly through the back-bone, holding the Separator with both hands, through the belly part; then you truss it for roasting. If it should happen to be a very large hare, the fillets only are carved, and they ought to be cut in thin slices in an oblique direction, instead of straight along the back.

The half of a Fowl with the flesh on. The half of a Fowl dissected.

DIRECTIONS FOR LARDING.

My motive for introducing the directions for larding at the commencement of this work, is to give it the importance which it deserves, it having in all former works been generally omitted, or lost amongst a multitude of receipts, which has made me desirous of placing it in a conspicuous place, in the hope that many families in the middle classes of society may be able to partake of that very inexpensive luxury.

Nothing but experience and practice would enable a person to lard well, I have, therefore, given the few following directions, so that a person might improve himself after once commencing. I have been induced to do so from the fact of having had many female cooks with me for improvement, many of whom could send up very good dinners, but few of them have scarcely known, or had any idea of larding, being in the habit of having it done by their poulterer whilst in London, and in the country avoiding it entirely: I shall, therefore, endeavour to explain, first, the choice of the bacon; secondly, the manner of cutting it; and lastly, the best mode of larding.

Choose the firmest bacon you can obtain, quite fat, and not at all red, or it would break and cause a deal of trouble. To cut it, take off the piece of lean at the bottom, lay it upon a board with the rind upwards, and beat gently with a cutlet-bat, trim the sides, and cut it into bands the breadth that you may require your lardons in length; if for a fillet of beef, two inches; for fricandeau, turkey, poularde, fowl, pheasant, or sweetbread, an inch and a half; and for lamb’s sweatbreads much smaller. Take one of the bands, place it before you with the rind downwards, and with a sharp knife cut it in slices, (but not separating it from the rind), of the thickness you require for the article you are about to lard, then place your hand at the top, press lightly, and draw your knife straight along as if cutting the bacon in slices, so as to form the lardons square at each end, commencing cutting from the heel of the knife, and finishing at the point.

To lard, the French method is so familiar to me that I cannot but recommend it, especially to inexperienced hands. If a fricandeau, lay it lengthwise upon a clean napkin across your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part you are about to commence at, having previously taken all the skin from the veal with a knife, then with the point of your larding-needle make three distinct lines across, half an inch apart, run your needle into the third line (at the further side of the fricandeau), and bring it out at the first, placing one of the lardons in it, draw the needle through, leaving out a quarter of an inch of the end of the bacon at each line: proceed thus to the end of the row; then make another line half an inch distant, stick in another row of lardons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving the ends of the bacon out all of the same length; make the next row again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardons of the first row, proceeding in like manner until you have larded the whole surface in chequered rows: proceed in a similar way with everything you lard, the difference being only in the size of the lardons, and in the case of poultry or game, previously scald the breasts. By following closely the above simple directions any cook may be able, if not to lard well, at any rate to lard well enough for every-day use, which would give practice, and likewise competence, to lard articles required upon more particular occasions.

MEAT AND POULTRY.

A FEW THINGS I OBJECT TO, THAT IS, NOT TO USE IN COOKERY COMESTIBLES WHEN OUT OF, OR BEFORE, THEIR PROPER SEASON.

For Butcher’s Meat, see page 637, Kitchen at Home.

In Poultry. I never use turkeys before Michaelmas, and not after the latter end of March.

Ditto turkey poults before the end of June, and not after September.

Capons, poulardes, pullets, and fowls, I use all the year round. I begin about March with the spring chickens, till the beginning of July.

Geese are in season almost all the year round.

Goslings, or green geese, commence early in the spring, and are called so till the end of September, thus there is hardly any difference between them and the Michaelmas geese.

Ducks and ducklings the same.

Rabbits and pigeons may be used all the year round; but it is only in the early part of the spring that I use tame rabbits.

Guinea-fowls are used when pheasants go out, which is about the latter end of January, and are used till the end of May. Their eggs are very good, more delicate than the common ones.

I never use grouse before the 14th Aug., nor after the 22d December.

Black cocks and gray hens about the same time as grouse, but they are more uncertain.

Ptarmigans are sent from Norway about the middle of January, and continue till March, but that depends upon the weather.

Though the shooting season for partridges is the first of September, and lasts till the end of January, I never cook one before the 3d, except being desired to do so, but I often keep some for three weeks after the shooting season is over.

The same with pheasants, which begins from the 1st of October till the end of January. By hanging them by the necks and putting a piece of garlic in the beak and a little cayenne, I one cold winter kept one six weeks after the shooting time had expired, which I afterwards presented to a party of real gourmets, who said it was the best they had partaken of during the season.

I always use wild ducks, widgeons, teal, pintails, larks, golden plovers, snipes, woodcocks from the commencement of November till the end of March, after which the flesh becomes rank and unfit for table.

Young pea-fowls are very good, and make a noble roast, see p. 401, and are in season from January till June, but they are very uncertain.

Plovers’ eggs, my favorite, an unparalleled delicacy, come about the middle of March, and are not considered good after the latter end of May; but when I can get them fresh in June, I do not discontinue their use, because they are, in my estimation, worthy of the patronage of the greatest gourmet. I have paid for them, at the beginning of the season, three shillings and sixpence each; they are the black plover or peweet’s eggs.

FISH.

For the last few years there has been quite an alteration in the seasons for these golden and silvery inhabitants of the deep.

Except the Cod-fish, which come in September, and by strictness of rule must disappear in March, the season for all other sea-fish becomes a puzzle; but the method I follow during the season is as follows:

Crimped Gloucester is plentiful in June and part of July, but it may be procured almost all the year round.

Common Salmon from March to July.

Salmon Peale from June to July.

Spey Trout from May to July.

Sturgeon, though not thought much of, is very good in June.

Turbot are in season all the year round.

John Dories depend entirely upon chance, but may be procured all the year round for the epicure, May excepted.

The original season of Yarmouth Mackerel is from the 12th of May till the end of July; now we have Christmas mackerel; then the west of England mackerel, which are good at the beginning of April.

Haddock and Whiting all the year round.

Skate all the winter.

Smelts from the Medway are the best, and are winter fish, the Yarmouth and Carlisle are good, but rather large; the Dutch are also very large, which often lose in the estimation of the epicure.

Brill is like turbot as to season.

Slips are similar to soles, good all the year round.

Gurnets are rather a spring fish.

Flounders and Diamond Plaice, are in full season from June to July.

Red Mullets vary very much now, but the beginning of the season was formerly the 12th of May; we had none this year except at a very extravagant price. I always use them when they are to be obtained.

Fresh Herrings are in season from November to January.

River Eels all the year round.

Lobsters in the spring and part of the summer. Prawns ditto.

Crabs are best in May.

Oysters begin in August, but are not very good till September.

Barrelled Oysters begin on the 15th of September, and last till the end of February.

Barrelled Cod, Lent fish, are best in winter or about March.

Sprats come in about the 8th of November.

Crawfish is a very favorite dish of the greatest epicures of France, and also of a few of the English; the author regrets that in fulfilment of an agreement between himself and M. Sampayo he is restricted from giving the receipt of Crawfish à la Sampayo, which has appeared in his Bill of Fare, No. 609. The reason of the enormous expense of this dish is that two large bottles of truffes du Périgord, which do not cost less than four guineas, are stewed with them in champagne.

VEGETABLES AND FRUIT.

The seasons for these delicacies are the principal guide for the epicure; but though either can be obtained by artificial means at a great expense, they do not repay in flavour their exorbitant price.

HOW EVERYTHING SHOULD BE IN COOKING.

All clear soup must not be too strong of meat, and must be of a light brown, sherry, or straw colour.

All white or brown thick soups must be rather thinnish, lightly adhering to the back of the spoon.

All purées must adhere little more to the back of the spoon.

Any Italian paste must be very clear, rather strong, and the colour of pale sherry.

All kinds of fish sauce should be thicker for boiled fish than for broiled or fried.

Brown sauce should be a little thinnish and the colour of a horse-chesnut.

White sauce should be of the colour of ivory, and thicker than brown sauce.

Cream, or Dutch sauce, must be rather thick, and cannot be too white.

Demi-glace requires to be rather thin, but yet sufficiently reduced to envelope any pieces of meat, game, poultry, &c., with which it is served.

Every description of fish should be well done, but not over-boiled, broiled, stewed, or fried.

Beef and mutton must be underdone even for joints, removes, and entrees.

Lamb requires to be more done.

Veal and pork must be well done.

Venison must be underdone, red in the middle, and full of gravy, but not raw.

Poultry, either broiled, stewed, boiled, or roasted, must be done thoroughly, not cutting in the least red, but must be still full of gravy.

Pheasants and partridges must be well done through, yet full of gravy.

Grouse, black cocks, gray hens, and ptarmigans, must cut reddish, with plenty of gravy, but not too much underdone.

All kinds of water-fowl must be very much underdone, so that the blood and gravy follow the knife in carving.

Plovers must be rather underdone, but done through.

Rabbits and pigeons must be well done.

Second-course savoury dishes must be rather highly seasoned, but with a little moderation.

Pastry should, when baked, be clear, light, and transparent, and of a beautiful straw colour; the body of a croustade the same.

Large pies, timbales, and casseroles of rice must be of a yellowish brown colour.

Jellies require to be rather white and transparent for fruits, and not too firm, but better so than too delicate.

Orange jellies should be of a deep orange colour, and all fruit jellies as near as possible to the colour of the fruit.

Creams should be very light and delicate, but fruit creams must be kept of the colour of the fruits they are made of.

For all the demi-glacé removes the ice must be firm, but not the least hard.

All kinds of soufflé or fondu must be well done through, or they would be very indigestible, clog the delicate palate, and prevent the degustation of the generous claret which flows so freely after dinner on the table of the real epicure.

I recommend sugar in almost all savoury dishes, as it greatly facilitates digestion and invigorates the palate, but always increase or diminish the quantity according to the taste of your employer.

I often introduce onions, eschalots, or even a little garlic in some of my most delicate dishes, but so well blended with other flavours that I never have a single objection even by those who have a great dislike to it.

Horseradish and herbs of every description may always be used with discretion to great advantage.

Contrary to the expressed opinion of every other previous publication, I say that too much seasoning is preferable to too little, as your employer can correct you by saying there is too much of this or that, and you can soon get it to his taste; but while you fear over-seasoning you produce no flavour at all; by allowing each guest to season for himself, your sauce attains a diversity of flavours. The cook must season for the guest, not the guest for the cook.

I have always found great advantage in dressing the greatest part of my entrées on a thin roll of mashed potatoes;[2] this has never been found objectionable, as it is so thin that it is imperceptible when covered with the sauces, and serves to prevent any entrées dressed in crown from being upset, before going on table, by the carelessness of the servant; for large removes, as turkey à la Nelson (No. 510), &c., after forming the ship (see engraving), egg, bread-crumb, and set in a moderate oven to brown, fix in your croustade, and dish up; the potatoes may be eaten, but not the croustade, which is merely an embellishment. Borders may also be made of forcemeat, as for ris de veau (No. 673), but gives much more trouble without being better; also of rice, by preparing it as for casserole au riz (p. 260); it may be used as mashed potatoes. Make but few preserves, only those that are indispensable; you will have a continual enjoyment of earlier stock, as Nature closely watches our wants and liberally supplies our wishes. The real gourmet, though anxious to produce novelty, never attempts to over-force the produce of the various seasons.

BRAISED ROAST TURKEY, CAPON, OR FOWL.

Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, one turnip, cut them in thin slices, also a little celery, a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, lay three sheets of paper on the table, spread your vegetables, and pour over them two or three tablespoonfuls of oil; have your turkey, or poularde, trussed the same as for boiling; cover the breast with thin slices of bacon, and lay the back of the bird on the vegetables; cut a few slices of lemon, which you lay on the breast to keep it white, tie the paper round with string, then pass the spit and set it before the fire; pour plenty of fat over to moisten the paper and prevent from burning, roast three hours at a pretty good distance from the fire: capons will take two hours, poulardes one hour and a half, fowls one hour, and chickens half an hour.

AMATEUR RECEIPTS.

Ris de Veau aux Pistaches à la Dr. Roots.

Take three fine sweetbreads, clean them well with milk and water, in order to make them as white as possible; do them gradually in a stewpan with good white gravy, some onion, carrot, and celery, with a little mace; then stuff them well with pistachio nuts nicely bruised; put them “en papillote” (that is, to oil or butter a piece of paper, which you fasten round by twisting it along the edge) and give them a nice wholesome colour; they will require from twenty to twenty-five minutes to bring them to a proper state of excellence, with the good, fine, wholesome colour they may be served up, with white endive, or celery sauce aux pistaches, after the above manner.

Potage froid, ou Salade à la Dr. Roots.

Make some very good and highly-flavoured calf’s-head soup, with a good abundance of egg and forcemeat balls, and some sausage-meat introduced therein; the pieces of calf’s-head should not be cut larger than an inch square. When this soup is properly prepared and ripe, pour it into several milkpans, to the depth of about two inches; let it stand in this way to cool and stiffen, for the next day’s use.

Dress a nice light salad of mustard and cress, with endive and a slight sprinkle of well-cut celery; take this salad from the bowl (in which it has been dressed), lightly with a fork, and form in a pyramid in the centre of a dish, around which place tastefully-ornamented slices of the cold and substantial soup, cut into slices about the size and thickness of calf’s liver that is usually served up with bacon. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs and lemon. This, if properly managed, forms not only a pretty-looking spring dish, but a most excellent one.

Roast Swan à la Norwich.

Take three pounds of beef, beat fine in a mortar,
Put it into the Swan—that is, when you’ve caught her;
Some pepper, salt, mace, some nutmeg, an onion,
Will heighten the flavour in Gourmand’s opinion;
Then tie it up tight with a small piece of tape,
That the gravy and other things may not escape.
A meal-paste (rather stiff) should be laid on the breast,
And some whited-brown paper should cover the rest.
Fifteen minutes at least ere the Swan you take down,
Pull the paste off the bird, that the breast may get brown.

THE GRAVY.

To a gravy of beef (good and strong) I opine
You’ll be right if you add half a pint of port wine:
Pour this through the Swan—yes, quite through the belly:
Then serve the whole up with some hot currant jelly.

N. B.—The Swan must not be skinned.

ANOTHER RECEIPT.

Take two pounds of rump steak, chop it fine, season well with spice, a piece of onion, or eschalot, and butter. Rub the breast both inside and outside with beaten cloves, then stuff with the above, taking care to sew the bird up carefully, and to tie it very tightly on the spit, so that the gravy may not escape. Inclose the breast of the swan in a meal-paste, after which cover the whole bird with paper well greased with beef dripping. About a quarter of an hour before the bird is taken up, remove the paper and the paste, baste well with butter and flour till brown and frothy. A swan of fifteen pounds weight requires about two hours roasting with a fire not too fierce.

THE GRAVY.

Take the giblets and a piece of beef, with a pint of port wine, and make a good gravy. Pour some of this through the body of the swan when dished. Some red currant jelly and port wine should be made hot and served up likewise.

N. B.—The swan is not to be skinned.

Cock a Leekie à la Wemyss.

To some good stock made the previous night from an old fowl, or of veal, add three pounds of the white part of the leeks, and let the whole boil slowly for three hours, then add a skinned fowl (old or young), cut into neat pieces, and three dozen of good prunes. Let all simmer together for one hour longer. Season with salt and white pepper, and you will have good cock a leekie.

N. B.—In frost the leeks require less boiling.

BOUQUET DE GIBIER, OR SPORTING NOSEGAY.

CADEAU FOR CHRISTMAS.

This very seasonable novelty originated with M. Soyer, “the Gastronomic Regenerator,” of the Reform Club; and, like everything which emanates from his inventive brain, is distinguished by its taste and utility. This is, indeed, a picturesque mode of keeping game, so as to make them ornamental until they become useful—at table. The lovers of “still life” pictures cannot but admire this “Bouquet;” and it is not unworthy of our painters’ attention. The several articles of game, &c., are secured between branches of laurel and other evergreens, set off with dried and coloured flowers, “everlastings,” &c. The handsome specimen we have engraved bears the following, arranged in the order here denoted:

	TWO GOLDEN PLOVERS.
	LEVERET.
WILD DUCK.		PHEASANT.
	WILD RABBIT.
GROUSE.		WIDGEON.
FRENCH PARTRIDGE.		ENGLISH PARTRIDGE.
WOODCOCK.		TEAL.
	TWO SNIPES.
	TWO LARKS.

The brilliancy of the plovers and of the pheasant, and the brightness of the wild-duck, backed by the sombre green, and the whole variegated and relieved by multicoloured flowers, is really very effective.

Not many days since, M. Soyer presented one of his “Bouquets de Gibier” to Viscount Melbourne, at Brocket Hall; when his lordship admired the novelty exceedingly, as did also the noble party on a visit at Brocket.

Another “Bouquet” has been presented by M. Soyer to a lady of high fashion and beauty, if we may judge from the triplet which accompanied the offering:

Madam,

Flora having forsaken her flowers,
I quickly embraced the sport of swift Diana,
To dedicate and present this bouquet to Venus.

Count d’Orsay, the arbiter elegantiarum of our day, on the “Bouquet” being submitted to him, admired the artistical design, and suggested that Landseer would appreciate its novelty, adding, “What a beautiful trophy it would make for a sideboard or a dining-room!”

The “Bouquet,” we augur, will be popular in the approaching Christmas season; and though there is a musty old proverb about “looking at a gift-horse,” the above novelty will surely throw the old-fashioned baskets into the shade, by presenting much that is agreeable to the eye, with the proximate association of another sense of enjoyment.

Bouquet de Gibier.

OLIVE-BRANCH BETWEEN FRANCE AND ENGLAND.

A present extraordinary to the King and Queen of the French was forwarded from London to Paris on the 21st of December by the well-known Gastronomic Regenerator, M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, and was presented to their Majesties on the 24th, in the morning, at the Palace of the Tuileries. Their Majesties were so delighted with the novelty and elegance of the composition, that after a long examination the King ordered it to be carried to the apartments of her Majesty the Queen of the Belgians, who was exceedingly pleased with it, and afterwards the whole of the royal family was summoned to see this bouquet; the sight was so new and unexpected that it met with their unanimous approbation. His Majesty then observed that such a welcome and graceful present from a foreign country had never before penetrated through France to the palace of its kings. Immediately after, by the orders of his Majesty, the sporting nosegay was carried by two gentlemen porters to the council of ministers then sitting at the Tuileries, and was admired by every one. It is reported that his Majesty intends to have a similar bouquet carved in wood for ornamenting the grand sideboard of the magnificent banqueting hall of the palace. To give an idea of the composition of this splendid innovation, the following description perhaps will be interesting to the public. The length of it was about ten feet, and wide in proportion. The frame was richly covered with Christmas holly, laurels, mistletoe, and evergreen, with a great variety of winter flowers. There were twenty-two heads of game, consisting of larks, snipes, woodcocks, black peweets, teal, French and English partridges, grouse, widgeons, wild ducks, black cocks, pheasants, a leveret, a hare, and golden plovers; the interstices were lightly filled with wheat and oats, the whole ornamented with tri-coloured ribands and small flags at the top—and to give a still more pleasing effect, fancy birds of beautiful plumage, so abundant in England, were spread in every part of this magnificent nosegay.

The following letter from his Majesty the King of the French, accompanied with a beautiful pin forming a bouquet of diamonds and pearls, was sent by his Majesty’s orders to the French Ambassador, and forwarded to Monsieur Soyer at the Reform Club.

Cabinet du Roi, Château des Tuileries; 1847.

Monsieur,

Le Roi a reçu votre ouvrage sur l’art culinaire, et le groupe de gibier dont vous lui avez fait hommage.

Je suis chargé, Monsieur, de vous transmettre les remercimens de sa Majesté pour cette double attention, et d’y joindre comme témoignage de sa satisfaction, le bijou que je m’empresse de vous remettre.

Recevez je vous prie, Monsieur, mes plus parfaites salutations.

Le Secrétaire du Cabinet,
CAMILLE FAIN.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

NUMBER OF STEWPANS AND OTHER KITCHEN UTENSILS
REQUIRED IN THE KITCHENS OF WHICH I HAVE GIVEN PLANS, COMMENCING WITH THE COMPLETE BATTERIE DE CUISINE OF THE REFORM CLUB.

Utensils.	Reform Club Kitchen.	Kitchen of the Wealthy.	Kitchen at Home.	Kitchen of the Bachelor.	Cottage Kitchen.
Stewpans, the sizes fluctuating from six gallons to half a pint	89	36	12	6, 1 holding a gall.	4
Stock-pots, varying from twelve gallons to two	8	4	1		6 black saucepans
Turbot kettles, one full size, and another two sizes smaller	2	2	1 small
Long Fish-kettles, two large and two middling-sized ones	4	2	1 rather larger	1 rather wide.	1
Braising-pans, two large and two middling-sized	4	2	1	..
Preserving-pans (copper), one large round bottome and one large flat bottomed	2	2	1	..	1 flat
Egg bowls, one large and one middling-sized	2	2	1	1	bottomed
Baba and sponge-cake moulds	2	3	1
Large round copper pie-dishes for servants	4	2
Thick flat braising-pans with hermetic covers	6	6	2	1
Sautépans, twenty deep, with thick bottoms, and ten others	30	12	6	2	2
Bain-marie-pans, varying from two gallons to a pint	36	18	6	2
Pie-moulds for raised pies	6	4	2	1
Jelly and charlotte moulds	24	12	4	1
Small bordure for aspic jellies	6	4	1	2
Freezing-pots, with accessories	4	2	1	1
Baking-sheets of various sizes	12	12	2	2
Gridirons	6	2	1	1
Salamanders	2	1	1 small	1 do.	1
Spoon drainers	4	2	1	1
Spits of various sizes, including two with cradles	12	6	2	2
Dripping-pans	2	1	1	1
Steam copper cases for puddings and potatoes	4	2
Round copper fruit bowls with handles	4	1	1
Sugar-pans	6	2	1	1
Soup ladles (small and cheap utensils)	18	12	4	2	1
Copper kitchen spoons, six of which are colander spoons	36	18	8	6	2
Wire baskets for frying	6	2	2	1	1
Wire sieves	6	2	1	1
Hair sieves	8	2	1	1	1
Omelette-pans	6	2	1	1	1
Small Jelly and driole moulds	36	18	12	12
Tartelette-pans	36	12	12	3
Tammies	6	4	2	2
Jelly bags	4	2	1	1
Wooden spoons	24	12	8	6	4
Paste brushes	10	4	2	2	1
Scissors	2prs.	1	1	1	1
Kitchen knives	12	6	2	2	1
Boxes of cutters for vegetables and pastry	4	4	2	2
Trivets, four common, and two for gas stoves	6	2	2	2
Meat saws, four large and two small	6	3	2, 1 small	2	2
Cutlet bats	4	2	1	1	1
Meat choppers, large	2	1	1	1
Steak-tongs, two large and two small pairs	4prs.	2	1 large	1	1
Meat-hooks	24	12	6	6	4
Rolling-pins	2	1	1	1	1
Kitchen basins	36	24	12	8	6
Small pie-dishes for fruit and meat	24	12	6	4	6
Kitchen table-cloths	24	12	8	4	2
Rubbers	8	8	4	4	2
Fish napkins	24	12	6	2	2
Pudding-cloths	18	12	4	2	2
Round towels	12	6	4	2	2

TABLE OF CONTENTS,

OR ABBREVIATED SUMMARY, REFERRING (FROM PAGE TO PAGE) TO THE VARIOUS SERIES OF DISHES, ETC.

(For General Contents see the end of the Volume.)

SAUCES.
	PAGE
Foundation sauces,	[1—9]
Thin sauces,	[9—14]
Sauces,	[14—33]
Sauces, with Garnitures of Vegetables, or garnishing,	[34—48]
Appendix to the Sauces.
Composed of forcemeat of veal, rabbits, fowl, game, whitings, cod-liver, panada, veal-stuffing, boiled rice, branched macaroni, croquettes of potatoes, glaze,	[48—52]
Potages, or soups,	[53—88]
FISH—POISSON.
Method of cleaning salt-water fish,	[90], [92]
Method of cleaning fresh-waterfish,	[93—94]
Fish Dressed.
Turbot,	[95—101]
Brill,	[101—104]
John Dory,	[104—107]
Salmon, or saumon,	[107—111]
Cod-fish, or cabillaud,	[119—122]
Red mullets,	[122—124]
Whitings, or merlans,	[125—126]
Mackerel, or maquereaux,	[126—128]
Gurnets,	[130—132]
Haddocks, or merluches,	[128—130]
Herrings, or harengs,	[31]
Skate, or raie,	[133]
Smelts, or éperlans,	[134]
Flounders, or carrelets,	[135]
Plaice, or plie,	[135]
White-bait,	[136]
Sturgeons, or esturgeons,	[136]
Shell-fish,	[137—139]
Fresh-Water Fish.
Pike, or brochets,	[139—143]
Carp,	[143—144]
Tench, or tanche,	[144—145]
Perch,	[146]
Trout, or truite,	[147—148]
Eels, or anguilles,	[148—149]
Lampreys,	[149]
Crawfish, or écrevisses,	[149]
HORS-D’ŒUVRES,
or Dishes to be Handed Round the Table. Composed of—
Petits vol-au-vents and petites bouchées, made of beef-marrow, mackerel, skate, liver, oysters, lobsters, fowls, and game,	[151—155]
Petits pâtés of oysters, lobsters, and shrimps,	[156]
Rissoles of oysters, lobsters, shrimps, mackerel, game, and fowls,	[156—159]
Croustades of butter,	[160]
Aiguillettes of sweetbread,	[161]
Escalops of oysters, lobsters, fillets of soles, and fowls,	[161—163]
REMOVES. First Course.
Beef, or bœuf,	[164—176]
Ox tongue, or langue de bœuf,	[177]
Veal, or veau,	[177—184]
Calf’s head, or tête de veau,	[184—188]
Mutton, or mouton,	[189—196]
Lamb, or agneau,	[196—201]
Pork,	[202—204]
Turkey, or dinde,	[205—206]
Capon, or poularde,	[203—220]
Fowls, or poulets,	[215—220]
Goose, or oie,	[220—221]
Ducklings, or cannetons,	[221]
Venison, or venaison,	[221—226]
Grouse,	[228]
Black cocks,	[229]
Hare, or lièvre,	[229]
FLANCS. Composed of—
Fillets of beef, tongue, and Wesphalia hams,	[230—233]
Loin, knuckle, neck of veal, and calf’s head,	[234—237]
Neck and loin of mutton,	[238—240]
Saddle, shoulder, and neck of lamb,	[240—243]
Chicken and duckling,	[244—248]
Pheasant, grouse, and partridge,	[249—253]
Leverets and rabbits,	[254—256]
Pâté chaud, or hot pie,	[256—260]
Vol-au-vents and casserole of rice, do. rabbits, lamb’s and calf’s tail, lamb’s and sheep’s trotters,	[260—264]
ENTREES, or Made Dishes.
Beef, or bœuf,	[266—278]
Veal, or veau,	[279—294]
Mutton, or mouton,	[294—307]
Lamb, or agneau,	[308—321]
Pork, or porc-frais,	[322—325]
Venison, or venaison,	[325—329]
ENTREES OF POULTRY.
Turkey, or dinde,	[329—331]
Poulet, or poularde,	[332—340]
Fowls, or volaille,	[340—347]
Spring chickens, or poulets,	[348—351]
QUENELLES, or Forcemeat. Composed of—
Quenelles of fowls,	[352—354]
Boudins, croquettes, and rissolettes,	[355—357]
Fillets of ducklings,	[358—359]
ENTREES OF GAME.
Hare, or lièvre,	[360—362]
Rabbits, or lapins,	[363—366]
Pheasant, or faisan,	[367—370]
Grouse,	[371—373]
Partridges, or perdreaux,	[374—377]
Wild ducks, or canards sauvages,	[378—379]
Teal, or cercelles,	[380—381]
Woodcocks, or bécasses,	[382—385]
Plovers, or pluviers,	[386—387]
Quails, or cailles,	[388—389]
Pigeons,	[389—390]
Larks, or mauviettes,	[391—392]
ROASTS for Second Course.
Turkey, or dinde,	[393—397]
Capon, pullet, and chicken,	[398—399]
Goose, or oie,	[400]
Duckling, or canneton,	[400]
Woodcocks, or bécasses,	[401]
Guinea-fowl, or poule d’Inde,	[401]
Pea-fowl, or paon,	[401]
Pigeons,	[402]
Quails, or cailles,	[402]
Pheasants, or faisans,	[403]
Grouse,	[403]
Ptarmigan,	[404]
Black cocks and gray hens,	[405]
Partridge, or perdrix,	[405]
Dun bird,	[405]
Wild duck, or canard sauvage,	[405—406]
Teal, or cercelles,	[406—407]
Plovers, or pluviers,	[407]
Woodcock, or bécasse,	[408]
Larks, or mauviettes,	[408]
Snipes, or bécassines,	[409]
Hares, or lièvres,	[409]
Leverets, or levrauts,	[409]
Rabbits, or lapins,	[409]
SAVOURY DISHES for Second Course. Composed of—
Boar’s head, ribs and fillets of beef, ox tongue, cold ham,	[410—419]
Fillet and loin of veal, galantine, and pâtés of veal and ham, cotelettes of veal, and sweetbread,	[420—424]
Cotelettes, turban, and carbonade of mutton,	[425]
Balottins and cotelettes of lamb,	[426—427]
Galantine and pâté of turkey, capon (or poularde),	[428—433]
Chaud-froid of poularde (or capon), fillets of do., duckling en aspic, salad of fowl, aspic mould,	[434—438]
Galantine, pâtés, fillet, and chaud-froid of pheasant,	[439—440]
Galantine and salad of grouse,	[441]
Galantine and pâtés of partridges,	[442—443]
Woodcocks and pâtés froid of larks (cold),	[444]
Lobster salad, mayonnaises of lobster, lobster en aspic au gratin,	[445—446]
Crabs, oysters en coquilles, salad of fillet of soles, trout and salmon pickled, galantine of eels,	[447—449]
VEGETABLES for Second Course.
Asparagus, sea kale, celery, salsify, cucumbers, and vegetable marrow,	[450—454]
Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflowers, brocoli,	[455—456]
Artichokes, peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts,	[457—462]
Spinach, endive, sorrel, lettuces,	[463—465]
Windsor beans, white haricot do.,	[466—467]
Tomatas and mushrooms,	[468]
Carrots, turnips, onions, spring vegetables,	[469]
Potatoes, lentils, truffles,	[470—474]
Omelettes fines herbes, ham, truffles, mushrooms, olives, jardinière, oysters, fillets of soles, muscles, lobsters, sugar, preserves, and rum,	[474—477]
ENTREMETS, or Sweets.
Observations on pastry, different sorts of paste, puffpaste, do. with beef suet, do. half puff, confectioner’s paste, almond paste, and gum paste,	[478—483]
Vol-au-vents of peaches, apricots, greengages, cherries, pears, apples, oranges, and gateau mille-feuille,	[484—486]
Turban à la crême, wells of fruit, Pthiviers cakes,	[487—488]
Tourtes, tartelettes, and fanchonettes à la vanille,	[489—493]
Dauphines, tartelettes, mirlitons, and petits vol-au-vents,	[494—495]
Gateaux fourrés with preserves,	[497—499]
Turban de Condé, and apricot cakes,	[500]
Petites bouchées, eventail with cherries, petits gateaux royals,	[501]
A flan of puff paste, do. of apples, do. of pears, do. crême pralinée,	[502—503]
Pâte à choux, petits choux with cream, almond, petits pains crêmière,	[504—505]
Madeline with port wine, génoise, darioles,	[506—507]
Biscatelles, cakes à l’Indienne gauffres aux pistaches, Allemande, vanilla, red nougat,	[508—510]
Small cups of nougat, nougat with apricots, crisp chesnuts amandes croquantes, meringues,	[510—512]
Turban of meringues,	[513]
Meringue iced, do. aux pistaches, mushrooms en surprise,	[514]
Biscuits manqués with almonds, do. with rum,	[515]
Calf’s foot jelly, and various other jellies,	[516—524]
Creams, various,	[524—528]
Bavaroises, various,	[529—531]
Charlottes, chartreuses, suédoises, bread and croquettes of apples,	[532—536]
Apples, pears, and apricots with rice,	[537—538]
Pommes meringués, miroton, fritters of apples, peaches and apricots,	[539—542]
Croquettes of rice, cream of rice, macaroni, vermicelli, and cream fried,	[543]
Beignets soufflés, frangipane,	[544]
Omelette Célestine, pannequets with preserve,	[545]
REMOVES, Second Course,	[548—574]
SOUFFLES, For Removes,	[575—583]
Appendix, the Second.
Aspic,	[585]
Mayonnaise à la gelée, do. fines herbes, do. ravigote verte, do. ordinaire, do. Provençale,	[586—589]
Montpellier butter, forcemeat for raised pie, and of liver for do. sponge cake, savoy cake in mould, biscuits, to clarify isinglass,	[591—592]
Iceing, and chocolate iceing, sugar in grain, and to colour it,	[593]
Vanilla and lemon sugar, to clarify and boil sugar, sugar thread,	[594—596]
Iced cream of vanilla, coffee, chocolate, pine apple, lemon, orange, apricot, and strawberry,	[597—599]
Marmalade of apples, apricot, quince, cherries, strawberries, and raspberries,	[600—602]
Jelly of apples, quince, currant and raspberries, and to preserve tomatas,	[602—604]
MY TABLE AT HOME.
Plain joints,	[637—649]
Soups,	[652—656]
Fish,	[656—660]
Fresh-water fish,	[660—662]
Simple hors-d’œuvres,	[663]
Removes simplified,	[664—672]
Sauces,	[673—675]
Economical made dishes,	[676—687]
Economical made dishes from poultry,	[688—691]
Game,	[692—695]
Meat pies and puddings,	[696]
Second Course,	[698—701]
Jellies of liqueurs or spirits,	[702]
Bohemian jelly cream,	[703—710]
MISCELLANEOUS.
Dedication to H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge,	[iii]
List of distinguished Personages who have patronized the work,	[v]
Preface,	[vii]
Preface to the Fourth Edition,	[ix]
Description of the composition of this work,	[xi]
Soyer’s new mode of carving,	[xiv]
Directions for carving,	[xv]
How to carve a haunch of venison,	[xviii]
Saddleback of venison,	[xix]
Carving of poultry,	[xx]
Soyer’s Tendon Separator,	[xxi]
Directions for larding,	[xxv]
Meat and poultry,	[xxvi]
Fish,	[xxvii]
Vegetables and fruit,	[ib.]
How everything should be in cooking,	[xxviii]
Braised roast turkey, capon, or fowl,	[xxx]
Amateur Receipts—Ris de Veau aux Pistaches à la Dr. Roots,	[ib.]
Potage froid, ou Salade à la Dr. Roots,	[ib.]
Roast Swan à la Norwich,	[xxxi]
Cock a Leekie à la Wemyss,	[ib.]
Bouquet de Gibier, or Sporting Nosegay,	[xxxii]
Olive Branch between France and England,	[xxxiii]
Number of stewpans and other utensils required,	[xxxiv]
Service pagodatique,	[606]
Table of the wealthy and bill of fare for ten persons,	[607]
Dîner Lucullusian à la Sampayo,	[608]
Bill of fare for the same,	[609]
Dialogue culinaire,	[611]
Description of the kitchen of the Reform Club, and plan,	[613]
Reference to the plan,	[614]
Kitchen of the Reform Club,	[615—629]
My kitchen at home,	[630—632]
The bachelor’s kitchen and cottage kitchen,	[633]
Dinner party at home,	[634]
Receipts,	[637—710]
Coffee,	[711]
Monster bill of fare,	[712]
Pagodatique entrée dish,	[713]
Celestial and terrestrial cream of Great Britain,	[719]
General table of contents Madame Soyer’s biography Criticisms of the press	at the end — of the book.

ENGRAVINGS.

	PAGE
Portrait of the Author	[1]
Emblematical woodcut	[iv]
A Turkey, prepared according to M. Soyer’s new plan	[xvi]
Carving a haunch of venison	[xviii]
Carving of poultry	[xxi]
The Tendon Separator	[xxiii]
Fowl—one half with the flesh on, and the other half dissected	[xxiv]
Mutton, pork, and lamb cutlets	[294]
Table of the wealthy	[607]
Kitchen of the Reform Club	[612]
Ground plan of ditto	[614]
Fifteen engravings representing the fitting-up of the kitchen of the wealthy	[610 to 629]
Ground plan of my kitchen at home	[632]
The bachelor’s and the cottage kitchen	[634]
My table at home	[635]
Saddle-back of mutton	[644]
A new mutton cutlet	[677]
Pagodatique entrée dish	[714]
Dindonneau à la Nelson, Poularde en diadème, Galantine à la volière, Salade de grouse à la Soyer, Mayonnaise de homard, Croustades of bread for the centre of removes, Croustade for filet de bœuf, Croustades for poularde en diadème, Croustades for turkey à la Nelson, Gateau Britannique, Crême Cerito sultane sylphe à la fille de l’orage, Six jelly moulds, and the Atelettes for Flancs, Removes, &c.	[720]
Portrait of Madame Soyer, Biography at the end of the book.

THE
GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR.

SAUCES.

THE first eight sauces are what we term Foundation sauces; but to facilitate and simplify the making of all kinds of made dishes, I have throughout this work principally referred to the Brown Sauce (No. 1), and the White Sauce (No. 7), which are the two sauces I daily and principally use. The others are of course very good, and sometimes necessary; but being more complicated, I would recommend that they be left to culinary artists, who can easily surmount this difficulty. The two above-mentioned sauces require nothing but a little care and attention; if well made, you will have little trouble with the smaller sauces; for the foundation sauces being well made, the smaller ones require little more than the ingredients directed for them, to give them their proper flavour; but if badly made, it would injure the whole dinner. The above-named sauces will keep four or five days in summer, and a week in winter, by adding a quart of light broth, and boiling them up every day in summer, and every other day in winter.

The following proportions in the foundation sauces are sufficient for a large dinner; but of course where so much is not required, a quarter, or even a smaller quantity can be made.

The colour of the brown sauce ought to be as near as possible to that of the horse-chesnut, whilst the white sauce should be of the colour of rich cream. If possible, nothing but the best flour should ever be used for a roux, which is the French culinary term for thickening; for inferior or new flour loses its strength by boiling, and your sauce would become thin and watery: but if such be the case, you should make more roux, to obviate this difficulty, which must be well mixed with a little cold stock, poured into the sauce, and all boiled together till you have obtained the consistency directed.

No. 1. Brown Sauce.

Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it all over the bottom, then peel and cut ten large onions in halves, with which cover the bottom; then take two pounds of lean ham cut into slices, which lay over the onions; having ready cut in large slices twenty pounds of leg of beef and veal, put it over the ham, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire; let it remain a quarter of an hour, then with a large wooden spoon move the whole mass round, but keeping the onions still at the bottom. Keeping it over the fire, and stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a light brown glaze, then prick the meat with a fork, take off the stewpan, and put some ashes upon the fire, to deaden its heat; place the stewpan again over it, and let it stand half an hour longer, stirring it twice during that time; the bottom will then be covered with a thick but clear brown glaze; fill it up with fourteen quarts of water or sixteen of light stock (No. 133), then add three turnips, two carrots, four blades of mace, and a bunch of ten sprigs of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; leave it over the fire until it boils, then place it on the corner, add a quarter of a pound of salt; skim off all the fat, and let it simmer for two hours, adding two quarts of cold water by degrees, to clarify it and keep it to its original quantity; then skim it again, and pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin, (by filling up the stewpan again with water you will have then an excellent second stock—for filling up stocks for soups or sauces, this remark also applies to every description of stocks;) if by any misfortune the stock should become thick, clarify it as directed (No. 134).

Then proceed as follows: put one pound of butter into a deep stewpan, (which is the best for this purpose,) place it over the fire, stirring it until it melts; then stir in a pound and a half of best flour, mix it well, and keep stirring it over the fire until it assumes a brownish tinge; then take it from the fire, and keep stirring the roux until partly cold, then pour in the stock quickly, still stirring it; place it over a sharp fire, stirring it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the stove, and let it simmer an hour and a half; by keeping it skimmed, you will take off all the butter, and the sauce will become clear and transparent; place it again over a sharp fire, and keep it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, stirring it round occasionally until cold, and use it where required. Should the colour of the sauce be too pale, add a few spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135).

No. 2. Espagnole Sauce.

Put half a pound of butter into a large thick-bottomed stewpan, and cover the bottom with good slices of ham about a quarter of an inch in thickness; then cut up two legs of veal into as large slices as possible, (having twenty pounds of meat,) but reserving the nut, or noix, for flanks or entrées, (see No. 565;) put the meat without any of the bone into the stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire for twenty minutes, then shake it round, to prevent the ham sticking to the bottom; cover it over quite close, then put a few ashes upon the fire; put the stewpan again over it, shaking it round occasionally, and once or twice turning the whole mass round together with a wooden spoon until the bottom is covered with a light glaze; prick the meat with a fork to let out the gravy, and with it remove the bottom pieces to the top; replace it upon the fire, shaking it round occasionally until each piece of meat be covered with a clear brown glaze; then fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133); add six onions (in one of which you have stuck six cloves), twelve peppercorns, two blades of mace, two carrots, a good bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; when it boils place it on the corner of the stove, skim it, and add two ounces of salt; let it boil rather quickly, adding two quarts of water by degrees, which will facilitate the abstraction of all the fat in skimming; boil it two hours, then pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin. Make a roux, and terminate your sauce as described in the last.

No. 3. Brown Sauce from all sorts of meat.

Knowing by experience the difficulty of getting meat for stock in the country, especially veal, I will, for the convenience of families, give a receipt for brown sauce, to be made from rabbits, poultry, trimmings of mutton, beef, pork, or even venison; (but to every ten pounds of meat required, use twelve, as it is not so succulent as beef or veal.) In Scotland I was compelled to use venison even for beef-tea; this may appear rather strange, but it is no less true; for although the wealth of my employer would have enabled me to have anything required for my use, money could not purchase it at the time required. The mock beef-tea had of course a wild flavour, but it was still very palatable. Butter the bottom of a thick stewpan, upon which lay ten large onions peeled and cut in halves, then put in what trimmings of meat or poultry you may have, proceed exactly with it as directed for brown sauce (No. 1), but using stock or water in proportion to the quantity of meat; the same precaution must be used likewise with the quantity of roux used for thickening.

No. 4. For thickening Brown Sauce without making a roux.

Make your stock as directed in either of the three last receipts, (according to circumstances;) if sixteen quarts, bake two pounds of the best flour in a moderate oven, without letting it brown; sift it, and when quite cold mix it into a thin paste with two quarts of cold stock; mix it by degrees, getting it as smooth as possible; have the stock for your sauce boiling in a stewpan upon the fire, into which pour in the paste, keeping it stirred until it boils; then set it at the corner of the stove; let it simmer an hour and a half; skim it well, then place it upon a brisk fire, and add a few chopped mushrooms, boil it very quickly, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then pass it through a tammie as before, and use it where required.

No. 5. Velouté.

This sauce has stood for a century as a foundation sauce in the highest class of cookery, and may be admired for its utility, and the delicacy of its flavour; but I have avoided referring to it in almost every receipt on account of the expense attached to it and its tedious fabrication. According to the old system, it requires two days to complete it; one for the simmering of the stock, and the other for the sauce. I have here, however, succeeded in simplifying it, by which the aroma of its component parts are better preserved than when subject to so long boiling.

Put six tablespoonfuls of oil in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it over the bottom, then lay in twenty pounds of veal in large slices, (from knuckles or the under part of legs,) an old fowl, two carrots, six onions, (in one of which you have stuck six cloves,) two blades of mace, four pounds of good ham, and a bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and place the stewpan upon a sharp fire; when it begins to form large bubbles, stir the whole round with a large wooden spoon; place some ashes upon the fire, and some live charcoal upon the lid of the stewpan; take off the lid occasionally, and stir the meat round, prick it, and when each piece is covered with a light white glaze fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133), or water, add a quarter of a pound of salt, if water, but only three ounces, if stock; when upon the point of boiling, stand it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer for two hours and a half, keeping it well skimmed, and adding a little cold water every now and then, to clarify it and keep its quantity; pass it through a fine cloth into a basin; then in another stewpan have a pound of fresh butter, which melt upon a slow fire, stirring in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes (but do not let it change colour), add the trimmings of half a pottle of mushrooms; stir it round another minute, then take it off the fire and keep stirring it until about half cold; then pour in the stock all at once, keeping it stirred quickly; place it over a sharp fire, and stir it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the fire and let it simmer for two hours, keeping it well skimmed; pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold; when wanted, take the quantity you require, reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; finish with half a pint of cream or boiled milk.

This sauce, when well made, should be as white as ivory; it is used for removes or entrées of poultry, and may be substituted for white sauce in any of these receipts.

No. 6. Velouté, a plainer way.

Well oil the bottom of a thick stewpan; cut twelve pounds of veal in dice, (lamb trimmings or rabbits may be used with it,) and two pounds of lean ham also cut in dice; put the whole into the stewpan with three onions, a carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, half a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and set it over a sharp fire, stirring it round occasionally, (the fire should be sharp at first, but very slow at the finish,) until the meat and the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add a pound of flour, mix it well with the meat, then fill up the stewpan with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or water; add three ounces of salt, if with water, but two if with stock, and keep moving it round until upon the point of boiling, when place it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer two hours, keeping it well skimmed; then pass it through a hair sieve into a basin, and again through a tammie into another stewpan; add a few chopped mushrooms; stir it over the fire until it is reduced to a proper consistency, (this sauce is quickly done, and full of flavour;) finish with a pint of cream or boiling milk, and use it as directed in the last.

No. 7. Veal Stock, White Sauce, or Bechamel.

Cut twelve pounds of knuckles of veal into large dice, with two pounds of lean ham; well butter the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, (some of the bones of the knuckles may be included in the weight of the meat, but not much,) with three large onions, one carrot, a blade of mace, four cloves, and a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in half a pint of water, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a clear white glaze, then fill it up with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or nine of water; add three ounces of salt, and when upon the point of boiling, place it on the corner of the fire; let it simmer two hours and a half, keeping it skimmed, and adding cold water occasionally, to keep the quantity, then pass it through a fine cloth into a basin;[3] then in another stewpan have one pound of fresh butter, melt it over a slow fire and stir in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes, but do not let it change colour; then take it from the fire, stirring it until half cold, then pour in the stock, stirring it quickly all the time; place it over a sharp fire, keep stirring, and boil it for half an hour; add two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and a quart of boiling milk; boil it ten minutes longer, then pass it through a tammie into a basin; stir it occasionally until cold, and use it where required.

This sauce is easily made, full of flavour, and has a very good appearance.

No. 8. Sauce Allemande; (or German Sauce blanche.)

Is made from either of the three foregoing sauces. Put three quarts in a stewpan, which place over a sharp fire; reduce it to one third, keeping it stirred the whole time, it will then be very thick; have the yolks of six eggs in a convenient sized basin; mix the sauce with them by degrees, and turn it again into the stewpan; stir it again over the fire until the yolks are quite done, which will take about five minutes; have three pints of stock reserved from the original sauce, with which mix it by degrees; also add a pint of boiling milk, but do not make it too thin; boil it again ten minutes, then pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold.

Use it for entrées or removes of poultry, either hot or cold; but for cold removes of poultry it is best adapted.

This sauce never looks greasy; it will keep four or five days.

No. 9. Demi-Glace.

Put two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with one quart of consommé (No. 134), one ounce of glaze, four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), place it over the fire, and when boiling place it at the corner, let it simmer very fast, skim it well, and reduce it to a clear light glaze, with sufficient consistence to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon; then put it by in a basin, and use it where directed.

All thin sauces are or will become very much in vogue; they invigorate the appetite without overloading the stomach; and are, consequently, more wholesome; all brown sauces are preferable for meat or game entrées, and in some instances, which you will see, for poultry; but of course the arrangement of your tables would prevent you serving all white or all brown entrées.

For families who have their entrées placed upon the table at the same time as the soup and fish, a thin sauce is much preferable; for if even the sauce should retain the same degree of heat it was served at, it will become much thicker by standing; but a sauce served thick if allowed to remain becomes almost uneatable.

No. 10. Sauce au jus d’Estragon.

Put two spoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when boiling add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), add a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, place it over the fire and let it reduce very fast until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, then add thirty fresh leaves of tarragon, let it just boil up and it is ready for use. Do not make it too long before you require to use it, or the tarragon would spoil the appearance of the sauce.

No. 11. Jus d’Estragon clair.

Put two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; place it over the fire, let it boil, then add a quart of consommé (No. 134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), reduce it to half, season with a little sugar and pepper, finish with leaves of tarragon, as in the last.

No. 12. Sauce au jus de Tomates.

Put an onion in slices into a stewpan with two sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf, half a blade of mace, one clove, four sprigs of parsley, two ounces of lean ham, and one ounce of butter; stir them round over a slow fire until becoming rather brown, then add a spoonful of Chili vinegar, ten of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten of consommé (No. 134), boil altogether about ten minutes, skim it, then add ten spoonfuls of very bright preserved tomates, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a very little scraped garlic; season with a little cayenne pepper and salt; boil altogether five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it again into a stewpan, set it upon the fire, boil and skim it. Use it where directed.

No. 13. Sauce au jus de Champignons.

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace, (No. 9), into a stewpan with six of consommé (No. 134), and a little sugar; place it upon the fire and reduce it to a clear light demi-glaze; skim it well, then have chopped six good fresh mushrooms, throw them into the sauce, boil them ten minutes, then rub them through a tammie; put it again into a stewpan, warm it, but do not let it boil; after you have passed it, if made in the morning, warm it in your bain marie when required.

No. 14. Sauce demi-provençale.

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with sixteen of consommé (No. 134), place it over a sharp fire, reduce it to two thirds, skim it, scrape half a clove of garlic with a knife, and put it into the sauce with a little sugar, boil it again two minutes, and it is ready for use.

No. 15. Sauce au jus piquant.

Put two spoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with three of vinegar; reduce it to half over the fire, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), boil it about a quarter of an hour, skim it well, add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and when again forming a light glaze, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped gherkins, and a little cayenne pepper; it must not boil afterwards.

No. 16. Sauce au jus d’Echalote.

Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, place it over a sharp fire a couple of minutes, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), boil, skim, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar and cayenne pepper. Serve where directed.

No. 17. Sauce au jus d’Orange.

Take the rind from an orange as thinly as possible, take off all the pith, and cut it into thin strips, three quarters of an inch in length; boil them five minutes in water, and drain them upon the back of a hair sieve; then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), reduce it over the fire to the consistency of demi-glace, then add the rind of the orange and a little sugar, boil it another five minutes, and when ready to serve add a little of the juice of the orange.

No. 18. Sauce au jus de Bigarades.

Proceed as directed in the last, but substituting a Seville orange for the sweet one, and boiling the rind ten minutes instead of five.

No. 19. Jus lié demi Currie.

Peel and cut in slices a large onion, some carrot, turnip, two apples, and two ounces of lean ham; put them into a stewpan with two cloves, a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, parsley, and one ounce of butter; put the stewpan over a slow fire, stir them round occasionally until they become slightly browned, then add a good tablespoonful of the best curry powder, mix it well, then add ten of consommé (No. 134) and eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), boil altogether, then rub it through a tammie; put it in another stewpan, place it again upon the fire, skim it well, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when add a little sugar and cayenne if required, but that must depend entirely upon taste.

No. 20. Jus lié aux Concombres.

Prepare three middling-sized cucumbers, as directed (No. 103), then put two ounces of butter with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and half one of chopped onions, into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter is melted add the cucumbers, which pass over the fire until tender and slightly tinged; then put them out upon a cloth, put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into another stewpan with six of consommé (No. 134), reduce it until rather thickish; then add the cucumbers, boil them two minutes, season with a saltspoonful of salt, and the half of one of pepper, skim it, and it is ready to serve.

No. 21. Jus lié aux Truffles.

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with ten of consommé (No. 134), reduce it until it becomes again a demi-glace, then add six middling-sized French preserved truffles, cut in thin slices, with a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, simmer gently ten minutes, it is then ready to serve.

No. 22. Jus lié aux Anchois.

Put six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with three of consommé (No. 134), and one of brown gravy (No. 135), place it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 78), stir it in quickly, but do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce must be made only at the time of serving.

No. 23. Jus lié aux fines Herbes.

Put two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped onions into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; stir them over the fire until lightly browned; then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and eight of consommé (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skim it well, then add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mushrooms, with a little cayenne pepper, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; boil altogether five minutes, and finish with the juice of half a lemon; it is then ready for use.

No. 24. Jus lié aux petits Navets.

Scoop four large turnips with a scoop about double the size of a pea; when done, wash and well dry them upon a cloth, then put a little powdered sugar into a convenient sized stewpan; place it upon the fire, when it melts and becomes slightly tinged, throw in an ounce of butter and the turnips, place them over a slow fire, tossing them over occasionally until slightly browned; then in another stewpan put ten spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9,) and six of consommé, then add your turnips; let it simmer upon the corner of the fire, keeping it skimmed until the turnips are done; add a little more seasoning, if required, and it is ready for use.

No. 25. Jus lié aux Olives.

Put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with the same of salad oil; pass them five minutes over a slow fire, then add a teaspoonful of port wine, eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skimming it well, then have twenty fine olives, turn them, taking out their stones, so that they resume their original shape, put them into the stewpan with a little sugar, boil them two minutes, and the sauce is ready. Should the olives be too salt, soak them a short time in warm water.

No. 26. Sauce aux fines Herbes.

Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with one ounce of butter, stir them over a moderate fire until getting rather brownish, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of consommé (No. 134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, and one of preserved tomates; season with a little sugar, cayenne, and salt, if required. When ready to serve add the juice of half a lemon.

No. 27. Sauce piquante.

Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with four of common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze; let them boil together a few minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of consommé (No. 134), stir it quickly over a sharp fire until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, and a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins; it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be seasoned rather high with cayenne pepper, sugar, and salt.

No. 28. Sauce Robert.

Peel and cut up four middling-sized onions into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir them over a moderate fire until rather brown; then add two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar, let it boil; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of consommé (No. 134), let it simmer at the corner of the stove ten minutes; skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until rather thick; finish it with two tablespoonfuls of French mustard, a little sugar, and salt, if required.

No. 29. Sauce Robert demi-provençale.

Put the same quantity of onions into a stewpan as in the last, but using two tablespoonfuls of salad oil instead of butter; proceed as in the last, and finish with a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea. Use this sauce for any purpose you would the preceding one.

No. 30. Sauce à l’Italienne.

Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and one of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, stir them ten minutes over a sharp fire; then add a wine-glassful of sherry, a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommé (No. 134), set it over a sharp fire until it boils, then place it at the corner, let it simmer ten minutes, skim off all the oil which it will throw up, then place it over the fire, stir with a spoon, reducing it until it adheres to the back of it, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little sugar, salt if required, and finish with the juice of half a lemon.

No. 31. Sauce à l’Italienne (white.)

Italian sauce for any description of fish, white meat, or poultry, must be made white, which is done by following the directions of the preceding receipts, only substituting white sauce (No. 7) for the brown, and finishing with three spoonfuls of cream.

No. 32. Sauce Poivrade.

Put two onions, half a carrot, and a turnip, in slices, into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a little celery, leek, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, one bay-leaf, two ounces of lean ham, and eight peppercorns; pass them over a sharp fire until rather brown, add six tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, just boil it, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommé (No. 134); simmer a short time, skim it, then reduce quickly until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then pass it through a tammie and use where directed. This sauce requires to be highly seasoned.

No. 33. Sauce poivrade demi-provençale.

Proceed as in the last, but adding two eschalots to the vegetables, which pass[4] in a tablespoonful of oil instead of butter, and finish with a little scraped garlic.

No. 34. Sauce à la Batelière.

Put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped tarragon, one of chopped parsley, and four of chopped mushrooms into a stewpan with one blade of mace, three cloves, a wineglassful of vinegar, and one of sherry; set it upon the fire until nearly dry, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), with a pint of consommé, (No. 134), reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoonful of chopped gherkins, and one of chopped capers; when ready to serve stir in an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78). Do not let it boil afterwards.

This sauce is a good zest for any description of broiled meat or poultry.

No. 35. Sauce à la Réform.

Cut up two middling-sized onions into thin slices and put them into a stewpan with two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two ounces of lean uncooked ham, half a clove of garlic, half a blade of mace, and an ounce of fresh butter; stir them ten minutes over a sharp fire, then add two tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, and one of Chili vinegar, boil it one minute; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), or sauce Espagnole (No. 2), three tablespoonfuls of preserved tomates, and eight of consommé (No. 134); place it over the fire until boiling, then put it at the corner, let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, then place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred, and reduce until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a good tablespoonful of red currant jelly, and half do. of chopped mushrooms; season a little more if required with pepper and salt; stir it until the jelly is melted, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan. When ready to serve, make it hot, and add the white of a hard-boiled egg cut into strips half an inch long, and thick in proportion, four white blanched mushrooms, one gherkin, two green Indian pickles, and half an ounce of cooked ham, or tongue, all cut in strips like the white of egg; do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce must be poured over whatever it is served with.

No. 36. Sauce au jus de Groseilles.

Put a couple of onions in slices into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf; pass them over a sharp fire until lightly browned; add two teaspoonfuls of common vinegar, let it boil, and then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommé (No. 134); let it simmer ten minutes at the corner of the fire, skim it well, then place it over the fire, stir and reduce it well, until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon; then add two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; pass it through a tammie, and it is ready to serve with roast hares, fillet, &c., where directed.

No. 37. Sauce aux Tomates.

Procure two dozen ripe tomates, take out the stalk, squeeze out the juice and the seeds, then put them into a stewpan with a little salt, stew until tender, and drain them upon a sieve; then, in another stewpan, put two onions, part of a carrot, and a turnip, all cut in very thin slices, with a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, two bay-leaves, two cloves, a blade of mace, a clove of garlic, two ounces of lean uncooked ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, stir the mierepoix round occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, then add the tomates, stir them over the fire another minute, then stir in six ounces of flour, and add two quarts of consommé (No. 134); boil altogether twenty-five minutes, keeping it stirred, season it with a little salt, sugar, and cayenne pepper, then rub it through a tammie; put it into another stewpan, set it over the fire, when boiling place it at the corner, let simmer ten minutes, skim well, then pour it in a basin, and use where directed. If no tomates, use two bottles of preserved tomatas. If too thick, dilute it with a little more consommé.

No. 38. Sauce à la Tartare.

Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a hair-sieve into a basin, to which add the yolks of two raw eggs, with a little salt and pepper; mix altogether with a wooden spoon; have a pint of good salad oil in a bottle, hold it with the left hand over the basin, dropping it in very gradually, and with the right continue stirring it round until it becomes rather thick, then moisten it with a little Tarragon vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so on until you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick; then add a tablespoonful of finely-chopped gherkins, half a do. of chopped capers, half a do. of chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and more salt if required, it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be rather highly seasoned.

No. 39. Papillote Sauce.

Scrape two ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, and four of chopped mushrooms; stir them over a moderate fire ten minutes, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix it well) and a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it simmer ten minutes, skim it; then add a spoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, then place it upon the fire; keep it stirred, and reduce until rather thick, then pour it into a basin, and use where directed. This sauce requires to be thick, but not pasty; it is folded in paper with cotelettes, joints of poultry, game, &c., with which it is also broiled and served, without taking them out of the papers.

No. 40. Sauce à la Diable.

Chop six large eschalots, wash and press them in a clean cloth, then put them into a stewpan with two wine-glasses full of Chili vinegar, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, and an ounce of glaze; boil all together ten minutes, then add four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), a little sugar, and ten of good gravy; boil it ten minutes longer, then add a pat of butter; stir it well in, and it is ready for use; serve it with devilled kidneys, poultry, or anything broiled.

No. 41. Sauce Corinthien.

Put four chopped gherkins into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of capers, two of red currant jelly, half a teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of chopped chalots, one of chopped parsley, a wine-glassful of vinegar, and half a tablespoonful of sugar; boil all together five minutes, then add six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and twelve of tomate sauce (No. 37), with six of white broth; boil and skim it well; this peculiar sauce is good for all kinds of broiled meat, game, or poultry, or may be eaten cold, with cold meat.

No. 42. Sauce Provençale chaude.

Put two yolks of egg in a stewpan, with half a tablespoonful of flour, half a clove of garlic well scraped, a small quantity of cayenne pepper, two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and the juice of half a lemon; place it over a moderate fire, and stir it until it becomes rather thick; then take it off the fire, stir in two tablespoonfuls of oil by degrees, then eight of melted butter; if you should require to warm it again, stir it in a bain marie of hot water. Use where required.

No. 43. Sauce à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in three ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79); stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in; this sauce should only be made at the time of serving.

No. 44. Sauce à la Ravigote.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only using Ravigote butter (No. 80), instead of the maître d’hôtel butter, as there directed.

The simplicity of the last two sauces is perhaps not greater than their utility or delicacy; they may not only be served with various descriptions of fish where directed, but with fillets of beef, mutton and lamb cutlets, calf’s head, calves’ tails, and many other articles where directed in this work.

No. 45. Sauce à l’Indienne.

Put two good tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with four of white vinegar from a bottle of mild Indian pickles, boil them a couple of minutes, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and three tablespoonfuls of white broth; reduce it over a sharp fire (keeping it stirred) until rather thickish, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan; when ready to serve make it hot, and add six of the pickles, cut in strips, which serve in it.

No. 46. Curry Sauce.

Peel four large onions and two apples, slice, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a blade of mace, six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves; stir them over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add two tablespoonfuls of the best curry-powder, and two of flour; mix it well in, then add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and a quart of white stock; season with a little salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil it a quarter of an hour, keeping it stirred, then rub through a tammie; put it into another stewpan, boil it up, skim and use it where required. Mangoes or curry paste may be used, but then you only require one spoonful of curry powder.

No. 47. Sauce Soubise.

Peel six large onions, which cut in very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and place them over a slow fire, stirring occasionally until tender, but keeping them quite white; then add an ounce of flour, mix it well in, then half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of milk; boil altogether twenty minutes; season with half a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, half ditto of salt, and three quarters ditto of sugar, a little cream may also be added; rub through a tammie, put it in another stewpan, make it hot, and serve where required. This sauce must be rather thick, but not pasty.

No. 48. Sauce Soubise (brown).

Peel and slice six onions, as in the last, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over a moderate fire until tender and of a light brown colour, then mix in one tablespoonful of flour, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten tablespoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), boil altogether until the onions are quite done, season with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, rub it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, make it hot, and serve where directed.

No. 49. Sauce à la Milanaise.

Cut thirty pieces of blanched maccaroni half an inch in length, as many pieces of lean cooked ham of the same size, and an equal quantity of white blanched mushrooms also the same, then put twelve tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), in a stewpan with four of white broth, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar; boil it ten minutes, then add the above ingredients with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, stir all gently over the fire ten minutes, finish with a tablespoonful of cream, and use where required.

No. 50. Sauce ou Ragout à la Financière.

Put a wineglassful of sherry into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and a bay-leaf, place it upon the fire, and when it boils add a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred; then add twelve fresh blanched mushrooms, twelve prepared cockscombs, a throat sweetbread cut into thin slices, two French preserved truffles also in slices, and twelve small quenelles (No. 120); boil altogether ten minutes, skim it well, thin it with a little consommé if required, but it must be rather thick, and seasoned very palatably.

The above may also be made white by using bechamel, or white sauce (No. 7) instead of brown, and following the above directions and finishing with half a gill of cream; serve in a vol-au-vent or wherever directed.

No. 51. Sauce aux Truffles.

Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, place it over the fire, keeping it stirred until it has reduced one third; have four middling-sized preserved French truffles cut into slices, which throw into the sauce, add a little sugar, and take it from the fire, not allowing it to boil after the truffles are in; it is then ready to serve where directed: by this simple method you retain the full flavour of the truffles, and keep them tender. Sauce aux truffles may also be made white by using white sauce (No. 7), instead of demi-glace, and finishing with half a gill of cream, but it requires to be rather thicker than the brown. When brown, neither this sauce nor the following must be too thick.

No. 52. Sauce aux Champignons.

Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce it to one third, keeping it stirred, then add twenty blanched mushrooms (No. 107), a little catsup, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil altogether a few minutes, skim it, and it is ready to serve. To make it white put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan with half a teaspoonful of sugar, when it boils add twenty mushrooms, boil altogether ten minutes, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, but do not let it boil afterwards.

No. 53. Sauce à la purée de Truffles.

Well pound eight middling-sized French preserved truffles, which afterwards rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put half an onion, a small piece of carrot and turnip, cut into very thin slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and an ounce of lean uncooked ham; stir them over the fire until quite tender; then add half a glass of wine and the pounded truffles, with which mix half a teaspoonful of flour; then add eight good tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), boil it ten minutes; then rub it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, add a little consommé (No. 134), boil it up, season with a little sugar, and salt, if required, and use where directed.

No. 54. Sauce à la purée de Champignons.

Well pound a pottle of very fresh white mushrooms, then put half an onion, a small piece of carrot, and a small piece of turnip, cut into very thin slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and an ounce of lean uncooked ham; stir them over the fire until quite tender, then add the mushrooms, and eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7); season with a little salt, and sugar, boil it ten minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of cream, and rub it through a tammie, put it into a stewpan, boil it one minute, and it is ready for use.

No. 55. Sauce Perigeux.

Put four middling-sized truffles, chopped very fine, into a stewpan with a glass of sherry, boil it one minute, then add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), season with a little sugar, and salt, if required, boil a minute and it is ready to serve.

No. 56. Sauce Bechamel à la Crème.

Put a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of white stock (No. 133), in a stewpan, reduce it over a sharp fire, (keeping it stirred), to one half, then add half a pint of good cream, a little sugar, and salt if required, boil it another minute, and serve where required.

No. 57. Sauce au Suprême.

Take the bones of a fowl you have filetted, or the trimmings of any other fowl, either roast or braised, (which is preferable if any,) but if using the bones of a raw fowl lay it in warm water two hours to disgorge, break the bones small and put them into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, a glass of sherry, one onion with a clove stuck in it, and one ounce of ham; place it over a good fire, keep stirring occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze, then add a quart of light broth (No. 133), let it boil at the corner of the stove, skim and reduce it to one third, pass it through a cloth, (but first carefully take off every particle of fat), into a large stewpan, add a pint of velouté (No. 5), or bechamel (No. 7), reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a little sugar and four tablespoonfuls of cream, boil two minutes longer, pass it through a tammie, and use where required.

No. 58. Velouté de Gibier.

Must be made either from pheasant or partridge; (wild rabbit may be introduced); chop up the bones, which put into a stewpan with an onion, the quarter of a carrot, and the quarter of a turnip (cut up small), a little parsley, thyme, and one bay-leaf; add a glass of white wine; pass them a few minutes over the fire, then add a quart of sauce velouté (No. 5), or sauce bechamel (No. 7), and a pint of veal stock; place it again over the fire, and keep stirring until it becomes rather thickish; then add a gill of cream, and a little sugar, boil again until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then pass it through a sieve, and afterwards through a tammie, and use where directed. The bones of two partridges or one pheasant would be sufficient.

No. 59. Sauce à la purée de Gibier.

Roast a grouse, and separate all the flesh from the bones, make a sauce with the bones as directed in the next; pound the flesh well in a mortar, put it into a stewpan; then add the sauce, boil altogether five minutes, then rub it through a tammie, and serve where directed.

Any description of game, or the remains of some from a previous dinner, may be used for the above purpose; the purée requires to be as thick as bechamel sauce (No. 7).

No. 60. Sauce au fumée de Gibier.

Roast two grouse, let them get partly cold if time permits, then cut them into joints, which use for a salmi (see No. 876); chop the trimmings up small, with the back bones, and put them into a stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion, a piece of carrot, and a piece of turnip, all in slices, a little celery, a sprig of thyme, and parsley, a bay-leaf, one clove, and half a blade of mace, stir them over the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consommé (No. 134); boil quickly upon the corner of the stove twenty minutes, then skim it well, pass it through a sieve, and afterwards through a tammie into a basin, and use where required.

The trimmings of any description of game, or some left from a previous dinner, may be used for making the above sauce, but if you have the choice, the trimmings of grouse are preferable.

No. 61. Demi-glace de Gibier.

Make a sauce as above, when passed put it into a stewpan with a pint of consommé (No. 134), and a tablespoonful of tomate sauce (No. 37); simmer it at the corner of the stove ten minutes, add a little sugar, skim it well, then reduce it quickly until a thinish glaze is formed and adheres to the back of the spoon.

No. 62. Sauce Matelotte.

Peel about twenty button onions, then put a teaspoonful of powdered sugar in a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, and your onions, pass them over the fire until rather brown; then add a glass of sherry, let it boil, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), simmer at the corner of the fire until the onions are quite tender, skim it well; then add twenty small quenelles (No. 120), ten heads of mushrooms, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, one of catsup, one of Harvey sauce, and a little cayenne pepper. Serve where directed.

No. 63. Sauce Genevoise.

Put one tablespoonful of chopped onions and one of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them over the fire until lightly browned, then add four glasses of port wine, two cloves, and half a blade of mace, with two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, and one of parsley, boil them a few minutes; then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), reduce it until rather thick; then add one tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, boil it another minute, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan; when just ready to serve, boil it up, season it with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, then stir in one ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78), but do not let it boil after. Serve with any description as directed.

No. 64. Sauce à la Beyrout.

Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with one of Chili vinegar and one of common vinegar, eighteen spoonfuls of melted butter, four of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup, and two of Harvey sauce; then place it over the fire, keep stirring until boiling, then place it at the corner of the stove, let it simmer five minutes, skim it well, then place it again over the fire and stir until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready to serve.

The above is a fish sauce, but may be used for meat or poultry by substituting white sauce (No. 7) for melted butter (No. 71).

No. 65. Sauce à l’essence de Poissons.

Have the bones of two whitings or soles, (having used the fillets), break them into pieces and put them into a stewpan with an onion in slices, a good bunch of parsley, a little thyme, bay-leaf, two cloves, one glass of sherry, and ten of white broth; place it over the fire and let it reduce until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze; then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and ten of white broth, let it boil twenty minutes, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, boil it again, and finish with half a gill of cream and a little pepper and salt if required.

No. 66. Sauce à la Hollandaise.

Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan with the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring it with a wooden spoon, (taking it off the fire now and then when getting too hot), until the butter becomes melted and thickens with the eggs, (great care must be exercised, for if it should become too hot the eggs would curdle and render the sauce useless); then add a pint of melted butter, stir it together over the fire, but do not let it boil; pass it through a tammie into another stewpan. When wanted stir it over the fire until quite hot.

No. 67. Caper Sauce.

Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, add two ounces of fresh butter and three tablespoonfuls of capers; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.

No. 68. Lobster Sauce.

Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, cut, a middling sized hen lobster into dice, make a quarter of a pound of lobster butter with the spawn, as directed (No. 77); when the melted butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the sauce round over the fire, until the butter is melted; season with a little essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon and a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, then add the flesh of the lobster. When hot, it is ready to serve where directed. This sauce must be quite red, if no red in the lobster use live spawn.

No. 69. Oyster Sauce.

Mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan with two ounces of flour; then blanch and beard three dozen oysters, as directed (No. 342); put the oysters into another stewpan, and the beards and liquor to the other ingredients, with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and six peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten minutes; then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of Harvey sauce; then pass it through a tammie over the oysters; make the whole very hot, without boiling, when ready to serve.

Another method.

Put a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan, with the juice and beards of three dozen oysters, as above, six peppercorns, two cloves, half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, then add a spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required; pass it through a tammie over the oysters, as before.

A plainer method.

Blanch three dozen oysters, take away their beards, and put them, with their liquor, into a stewpan, with half a blade of mace, two cloves, and six peppercorns; place them over the fire, and directly they boil add half an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful of flour; shake the stewpan round over the fire two or three minutes, then add a little essence of anchovies; take out the spices, and serve; this sauce is full of flavour, and very simple. If too thick add a little milk.

No. 70. Muscle Sauce.

Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, only using the liquor of muscle (see No. 341), but not the beards, instead of oysters, and serving muscle in the sauce; four dozen would be about the number required.

No. 71. Melted Butter.

Mix a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of flour, without putting it upon the fire; then add a pint and a half of cold water, place it upon the fire, keep stirring until upon the point of boiling, but do not let it boil; season with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of salt, and the eighth of one of pepper; pass it through a tammie into a basin, then add two ounces more of fresh butter; keep stirring till the butter is melted; it is then ready for use where required.

No. 72. Anchovy Sauce.

Make the same quantity of melted butter as directed in the last, but finish it with four good tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies; there should be little or no salt in the melted butter.

No. 73. Shrimp Sauce.

Make the melted butter as for the last, but finish with three tablespoonfuls of the essence of shrimps, and serve half a pint of picked shrimps in the boat with it. If no essence of shrimps, the anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a substitute.

No. 74. Demi Maître d’Hôtel Sauce.

Put half the above quantity of melted butter in a stewpan, and when upon the point of boiling stir in a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79); directly it melts serve, but do not let it boil.

No. 75. Fennel Sauce.

This is a sauce principally used for boiled mackerel; make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last, to which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel; serve it in a boat.

No. 76. Egg Sauce.

Generally served with salt fish or a Dublin-bay haddock; boil six eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in pieces about the size of dice; have eight tablespoonfuls of melted butter and three of good cream in a stewpan, season with a little pepper and salt, boil it five minutes, then add the eggs; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the eggs are quite hot, then add two pats of butter; shake it round until the butter is melted, then pour it into a boat, and serve very hot.

No. 77. Lobster Butter.

Procure a full-sized hen lobster, and quite full of spawn, which take out and pound well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mix them well together, then rub it through a hair-sieve, and put it on a plate upon the ice or in a cold place until wanted.

No. 78. Anchovy Butter.

Take the bones from ten anchovies, wash the fillets; dry them upon a cloth, and pound them well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; mix well together, and proceed as in the last.

No. 79. Maître d’Hôtel Butter.

Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate, with two good tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool place till required.

No. 80. Ravigote Butter.

Proceed as in the last, only substituting one spoonful of chopped Tarragon, and one of chopped chervils for the two of parsley, and adding half a spoonful of Chili vinegar.

SAUCES AND GARNITURES OF VEGETABLES.

No. 81. Purée de Choux de Bruxelles.

Trim and boil about thirty heads of Brussel sprouts, very green, in two quarts of water, with which you have put a quarter of a handful of salt; when done, drain them and chop them very fine; then put an onion in a stewpan, in slices, with two ounces of butter, three sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of raw ham; stir them ten minutes over the fire, then add the chopped Brussel sprouts, and half a tablespoonful of flour; mix all well together, then add half a pint of white veal stock (No. 7), and half a pint of milk; stir it until it boils, then add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; rub it through a tammie, and serve where directed. Season with a little pepper and salt, if required. It must not be too thick.

No. 82. Sauce aux Choux de Bruxelles.

Trim about thirty small Brussel sprouts; have ready in a stewpan three quarts of boiling water, into which you have put a tablespoonful of salt; put in the sprouts, let them boil twenty minutes, then press them with your finger; if they are soft they are done, but be careful not to break them; lay them upon a sieve to drain, then put ten spoonfuls of Bechamel sauce (No. 7), into a stewpan, with six of boiled milk; let it reduce a few minutes, then add the sprouts, two ounces of fresh butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a one of white pepper, half a teaspoonful of sugar, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; keep them moving over the fire until the butter is quite melted, and serve where directed.

No. 83. Aux Haricots verts.

Cut about fifty middling sized French beans into diamonds, and boil them very green in salt and water; when done, drain them upon a sieve; then put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of white broth (No. 133), one ounce of fresh butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a one of white pepper, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; then add the French beans; mix all well together without breaking the beans; when quite hot, stir in two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), and serve.

No. 84. Petit Pois à l’Anglaise.

Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, with three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a quarter of an ounce of sugar, a little salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied together; boil them ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir it in quickly, and serve.

No. 85. Petit Pois au Lard.

Pot a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five do. of brown sauce (No. 1), two of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it boil about ten minutes; have ready braised about a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square; add it to the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of butter, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, and serve.

No. 86. Purée de Pois vert.

Put a pint of raw peas into a stewpan, with six button onions, a bunch of parsley, an ounce of lean ham, and one do. of butter; cover the peas with cold water, mix well together with your hands, throw all the water away, put them over a quick fire; when quite tender, add a half tablespoonful of flour; mix well, pound it in the mortar, put it back in the stewpan; add twelve tablespoonfuls of broth (No. 133), season with a salt-spoon of salt, do. of sugar, rub it through a tammie, warm again, add a little cream or milk to give it a proper thickness, and serve.

No. 87. A la Palestine.

Peel ten Jerusalem artichokes, scoop them with a cutter the size of a small marble, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and a quarter of a spoonful of sugar; set them over a moderate fire, toss them over until they are covered with a glaze, then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and eight do. of white broth (No. 133); boil gently, and skim well; season with a small quantity of salt; when the artichokes are quite tender, but not broken, add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir quickly, and serve.

No. 88. Palestine à la Bourgeoise.

Prepare and cut the artichokes as above; put an ounce of butter, and a quarter do. of sugar into a stewpan with the artichokes, and pass them over a moderate fire, until they are covered with a white glaze; then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix it well,) and twelve do. of white broth; let it simmer gently until they are quite tender, season with a little salt and two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir it in quickly, and serve.

No. 89. Palestine au Maigre.

Cut the artichokes as above (No. 87), pass them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and half ditto of sugar, over a moderate fire until they are covered with a white glaze; then add a tablespoonful of flour, and sixteen ditto of boiled milk; let it simmer gently until the artichokes are quite tender, season with a little salt and white pepper; to finish add an ounce of fresh butter, and two tablespoonfuls of liaison, stir it quickly and serve.

If you have not a round scooper any shape will do; but round is preferable, as it is a very tender vegetable, and they are not so liable to break.

No. 90. Purée d’Artichaut.

Peel, wash, and dry, on a cloth, ten artichokes, which cut in very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a small bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, three quarters of a teaspoonful of sugar, and two ditto of broth; cut an ounce of lean ham in dice, set the whole over a slow fire, let it simmer gently for half an hour, when very tender add sixteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7); boil it twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie, into a clean stewpan, and before serving add three tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119). This sauce requires to be rather thick.

No. 91. Purée à la Palestine maigre.

Prepare and stew the artichokes precisely as before; when quite tender add one tablespoonful of flour, and eighteen of ditto of boiling milk; let it boil twenty minutes, rub it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add a little cream before serving.

No. 92. Navets Vierges.

Peel six large turnips, scoop them the size of a marble, put one ounce of butter into a stewpan with a quarter of an ounce of sugar, and the turnips, pass them over a moderate fire about twenty minutes, toss them over, when covered with a white glaze add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and four ditto of broth (No. 133), season with a salt-spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream. This sauce must not be too thin.

No. 93. Ragout de Navets à brun.

Scoop the same quantity of turnips as above (No. 92), put a quarter of an ounce of sugar into a stewpan, set it on the fire until it becomes rather brown, then add an ounce of butter, and the turnips, pass them until they are a yellow brown; then add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), four ditto of broth (No. 133), or brown gravy (No. 135), and a bunch of parsley, with one bay-leaf; add a little salt and pepper, skim well and serve.

No. 94. Purée de Navets à blanc.

Peel and cut six small turnips in thin slices, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a quarter of a spoonful of white sugar, one onion minced, and a bunch of parsley; stir them over a moderate fire until nearly tender, add eighteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), let it boil twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, finish with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and half an ounce of fresh butter.

No. 95. Purée de Navets à brun.

Put half an ounce of sugar into a stewpan; let it get rather brown, add two ounces of butter, have ready peeled and cut in thin slices six turnips, add them to the butter and sugar, and stir them about until quite tender; then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1); boil it about twenty minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and about an ounce of butter.

Observe.—Never let a purée of any kind remain long at the side of the fire, as it gives it a strong and unpleasant flavour; if not wanted immediately set it in a bain marie.

No. 96. Sauce aux Chou-fleurs.

Take two boiled cauliflowers, cut the tops off, so that the flowers will fall to pieces in sprigs, take them up carefully, put eighteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), into a stewpan with four ditto of white broth (No. 133), a little salt and white pepper; boil it about ten minutes, then add the cauliflower and half a teaspoonful of sugar, toss them about until well mixed, and add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), and serve.

No. 97. Purée de Chou-fleurs.

Cut off the flower of two heads of cauliflower well boiled, put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, pass them over a moderate fire about five minutes, then put the cauliflower in and mash them with a wooden spoon, add one tablespoonful of flour, and ten ditto of white broth (No. 133), let it boil about fifteen minutes, season with a teaspoonful of sugar, half ditto of salt, rub it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add a gill of good cream and serve, if too thick, moisten with a little milk.

No. 98. Macédoine de Légumes.

Peel four very red carrots, wash them, cut them with a small scooper the size of a large pea, the outside or red part of the carrot only; when ready, put them into a stewpan of boiling water, let them simmer about a quarter of an hour, then put them on a sieve to drain; peel and scoop the same size six turnips, and twenty button onions, put a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and the turnips and onions, pass them over a moderate fire about five minutes, then add the carrots, set them again over the fire until they are covered with a white glaze, add ten tablespoonfuls of white broth (No. 133), let them boil about ten minutes, take off all the butter and scum, then add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), let it reduce until rather thick, season with a little salt if required; and five minutes before serving add three tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), a few French beans, peas, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, or any green vegetable in season.

No. 99. Macédoine de Légumes, brown.

Prepare the vegetables and season exactly like the above, using brown sauce instead of white, and omitting the liaison. The two last sauces require to be reduced until the sauce adheres to the vegetables, but not too thick.

No. 100. Jardinière.

Peel four carrots, cut them lengthwise in slices a quarter of an inch thick, have ready a small long round cutter, cut as many pieces as possible out of each slice, boil them in water a quarter of an hour; peel and cut some turnips exactly the same; peel twenty button onions, put a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and the turnips and onions; drain the carrots on a sieve and add them; toss the whole over a moderate fire about ten minutes, then put ten tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), to the vegetables, let them simmer until quite tender, reduce and skim them well, then put twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), into another stewpan with six ditto of consommé, reduce until rather thick, then add the vegetables, two spoonfuls of green peas, one ditto of French beans, a few small pieces of cauliflower, and a few heads of asparagus; let the whole simmer twelve or thirteen minutes; season with a little salt and sugar if required; just before serving put in an ounce of butter, toss it about until melted; a bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, is a great addition to the flavour if stewed with them.

No. 101. Pointes d’Asperges en petits-pois.

Get some fresh sprue grass, cut it about a quarter of an inch long, the green part only where it will break off, have ready a stewpan of boiling water with salt in, throw in the sprue and let it boil very fast until tender, which will be a quarter of an hour, or according to the size; then put them on a sieve to drain, put eight tablespoonfuls of the sprue into a stewpan with ten ditto of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a little consommé, half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, and a small quantity of chopped parsley; let it simmer five minutes; to finish add a pat of butter and two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119).

No. 102. Purée d’Asperges.

Put twelve spoonfuls of sprue (boiled as No. 101), into a stewpan with two ounces of butter; stir it over a moderate fire until it is mashed, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix it well, add eleven spoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and ten ditto of broth (No. 135), half a teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter ditto of salt, let it boil five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan; before serving add a pat of butter. When wanted warm it quickly or it will turn yellow; if too thick moisten with a little milk.

No. 103. Concombres à blanc.

Get three best quality fresh cucumbers, cut them in pieces about two inches long, peel each separately, then cut the outside in three slices (or four, if large), leaving the seeds in one piece in the middle, trim off all the edges neatly; put half a tablespoonful of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little chopped eschalots, and the cucumber, pass them over a moderate fire ten minutes without breaking, and keep them quite white, then add a little white broth (No. 133), just enough to cover them, let them simmer until tender, then lay them, with a colander spoon, on a sieve to drain; put twelve tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) into the stewpan with six of white broth, skim off all the butter, let it reduce until rather thick; season it with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and half a gill of cream; when ready to serve add the cucumbers.

No. 104. Concombres à brun.

Prepare and stew the cucumbers exactly the same, only brown them slightly, reducing the same quantity of demi-glace (No. 9) instead of the white sauce.

No. 105. Purée de Concombres.

Cut the cucumbers in pieces and stew them as above (No. 103), put all the trimmings, and some of the worst-shaped pieces into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and half a spoonful of chopped onions, pass them over a moderate fire twelve minutes, add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock (No. 7), and let them simmer until quite tender; then put a tablespoonful of flour, mix it well, add four more of stock, and six ditto of bechamel sauce (No. 7), season with half a teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter ditto of salt, and a little pepper, rub it through a tammie. When wanted, warm it very quickly, and add half a gill of cream; put the pieces into the purée and serve; it must not be too thick.

No. 106. Epinard au Jus.

Pick all the stalks off and wash the spinach very dean in several waters, have ready a large stewpan of boiling water, in which you have put a handful of salt, put in the spinach, and let it boil as quickly as possible about twenty minutes; when quite tender put it into a colander and press the water out until there is none remaining, then chop it very fine; put one pound of spinach into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it with a wooden spoon over a moderate fire until the butter is melted; then add a little flour, eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), half a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of sugar, a little white pepper, and very small quantity of grated nutmeg; a little glaze may be added; finish with two ounces of fresh butter.

No. 107. Blanched Mushrooms.

Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the dirt and like-wise the heads (reserving the stalk for chopping), wash the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve; put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes, put them into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and peel very fine, put them into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in; let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar, and use where indicated.

Observe.—Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can attain; if they are very fresh and white wash them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth, throw them into the liquid above mentioned.

No. 108. Purée d’Oseille.

Put into a stewpan four good handfuls of sorrel (after being well washed,) with a small piece of butter, put on the cover and set it over a moderate fire without water, until melted; then put it on a sieve, and rub it all through; put half a tablespoonful of very fine chopped onions, and two ounces of butter into a stewpan, pass them over a quick fire two or three minutes, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well together, add the sorrel and ten tablespoonfuls of broth (No. 133), half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt and white pepper; let it boil fifteen minutes, stir in two yolks of eggs quickly, and it is ready to serve. Demi-glace (No. 9) is very good instead of broth.

No. 109. Ragout aux jeunes Racines.

Peel very thin four carrots and four turnips, cut them flat the thickness of an inch, take a long cutter about three lines diameter, cut as many as possible, blanch the carrots in boiling water five minutes, then put them on a sieve to drain; put a tablespoonful of sugar in a stewpan, set it on the fire until it gets rather brown, then put in an ounce of butter, and the turnips, toss them over the fire until covered with a brown glaze, add the carrots, and eighteen tablespoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9); let it boil at the corner of the stove until the vegetables are quite tender, then take them out of the sauce with a spoon, and lay them on a clean sieve; reduce the sauce until rather thick, season with a little pepper, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add the vegetables carefully, and serve very hot.

No. 110. Ragout de petits Oignons.

Peel carefully fifty young onions, without breaking them, put half an ounce of sugar into a stewpan, set it on the fire until it gets rather brown, add two ounces of butter and the onions, toss them over the fire until forming a glaze; then add fifteen tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and eight of consommé (No. 134); let them simmer until tender, skim well, season with a small quantity of salt and pepper, and use where indicated; a little piece of glaze may be added.

No. 111. Ragouts de petits Oignons à blanc.

Peel the same quantity of onions as above, put half an ounce of sugar with two ounces of butter into a stewpan, and the onions, toss them over the fire twenty minutes, then add sixteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and eight of white broth, let them simmer until quite tender; put in a bunch of parsley, season with a little salt and pepper, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119).

No. 112. Garniture de fond d’Artichauts.

Boil six artichokes in water and salt until quite tender, take the leaves off and trim the bottom until all the hard part is off and the artichoke has a round appearance; cut each in four pieces, put them in a good demi-glace (No. 9), rather thick, for ten minutes; add a little sugar, two pats of butter, and serve.

No. 113. Garniture de Haricot blanc nouveau.

Put half a pint of white haricot into a stewpan with a pint of cold water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and an ounce of butter; let it simmer gently about one hour, or until quite tender, then put them on a sieve to drain; have ready a clean stewpan, put in the haricot with three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a little chopped parsley, and salt, three pats of butter, and the juice of half a lemon, mix well together and serve where indicated.

No. 114. Gros Oignons farcis.

Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of each onion, and fill them with forcemeat (No. 120), (with a little chopped eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it), and put them in a sauté pan well buttered, cover them with white broth (No. 133), let them simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over and serve where required.

No. 115. Stewed Cabbage Lettuce.

Get twelve cabbage lettuces, as hard and full as possible; take off the outside leaves and wash them well; put them into a stewpan with four quarts of boiling water, and let them boil about twelve minutes,—this process is to take the bitterness off,—lay them on a cloth to dry, cut each lettuce open and season with salt and pepper, close them again, and tie them separately with a string, put a few cloves in an onion, put it in a stewpan with a few vegetables of all kinds, a bunch of parsley, and a few slices of fat bacon on the top, lay the lettuce in and cover with some very good veal stock (No. 7); put them over a slow fire about an hour, take them carefully out and cut the string, lay the heart upwards, dress them on a dish to form a star, or if they are small do not cut than open. Use for garniture where directed.

No. 116. Chou braisé and Chou-croute.

Cut two large savoy cabbages in quarters, which trim and wash well, then blanch them twenty minutes in boiling water, then lay them upon a cloth, season them well, and stew them as directed in the last, use where indicated.

Chou-croute. Take three or four pounds, not too sour, and put it into a stewpan, with some slices of fat bacon, six onions cut in halves, three cloves, a blade of mace, half a carrot, half a turnip, four bay-leaves, and a few sprigs of thyme and parsley (laying the vegetables at the bottom and the chou-crout over them, which cover with fat bacon;) add a pint and a half of good stock, and stew it gently for two hours; when ready to serve press them at the rim of the stewpan with a colander spoon, and pour off as much of the grease as possible, it is then ready for use where directed. Chou-croute is generally sufficiently seasoned in the barrel, but it may perhaps require a little more pepper and salt.

No. 117. Stewed Celery for Garniture and Celery Sauce.

Procure twelve very fine heads of red celery, take off the loose branches, and cut the celery into heads five inches in length, blanch them twenty minutes in a stewpan of boiling water, then put them upon a sieve to drain, stew them precisely as directed for the lettuce (No. 115); but before stewing if the heads are too large split them in halves; use where directed. To make celery sauce, or purée of celery, blanch twelve heads of fine white celery in boiling water until tender, then drain them upon a sieve, cut off the roots, chop, and put the celery into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it five minutes over a fire, then stir in one ounce of flour, add a pint of milk and half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), boil altogether ten minutes, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a whole one of powdered sugar; then pass it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, and make it hot when ready to serve.

No. 118. Choux-fleurs for Garnitures.

Take four heads of cauliflower, cut each in four pieces, trimming the stalks to give them a neat appearance; put half a gallon of water into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of salt, when boiling, put in the cauliflowers to simmer about twenty minutes; when done, let them remain in their stock until wanted.

No. 119. Chicorée, or Endive Sauce.

Well wash six heads of very white endive, blanch them in boiling water until tender, then drain them upon a sieve, after which chop them very fine, then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of flour, mix well together, then add the endive, ten spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a piece of white glaze the size of a walnut, a little nutmeg, salt, and sugar; place it upon the fire, and when quite hot finish with half a gill of cream, and use where directed.

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[Liaison. Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with which mix eight tablespoonfuls of cream or six of milk, pass it through a tammie and use where directed.]