The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery / With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

by Alexis Soyer

APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES.

No. 120. Forcemeat of Veal.

Take a pound and a half of lean veal, scrape, pound, and pass it through a fine wire sieve, when passed there should be one pound of meat; then take one pound of beef suet, which shred and chop very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, then add six ounces of panade (No. 125), with the suet, pound them well together; then add the veal, season with a little pepper, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg, mix the whole well together; then add three eggs by degrees, then the yolks of three more eggs when well mixed, whisk the whites of the three eggs to a very stiff froth, add to the forcemeat, mix them well in, and it is ready to use where directed. To form this or the following forcemeats into large quenelles, have two silver tablespoons, fill one of them with the forcemeat, dip your knife in hot water with which smooth it over, then dip the other spoon into boiling water, and with it remove the forcemeat from the first spoon and slip it from that into a buttered sauté pan, proceeding thus until you have as many as you require; then cover them with some second stock, and boil them about ten minutes, or until firm, and they are ready for use. Small quenelles are made in the same manner, only using teaspoons instead of tablespoons.

No. 121. Forcemeat of Rabbits.

Take the flesh of one or two young rabbits, according to the size, well pound and pass it through a wire sieve; then have ready boiled and cold a good veal udder, skin and pound it well, to a pound of the udder add six ounces of panada (No. 125), and one pound of the flesh of the rabbits; mix the same as the last, adding an eschalot finely chopped, to the seasoning, using three whole and three yolks of eggs, but omitting the whisked whites.

No. 122. Forcemeat of Fowl.

The best forcemeat is made entirely from the breasts of fowls, but should you have no use for the other parts the whole may be used. Take the flesh from your fowl as much as you require, pound it well and pass it through a fine wire sieve, form the flesh into a ball, then have a piece of panada (No. 125), half the size of the ball of meat, scrape some fat bacon, one ounce, in proportion to the pound of meat, and two ounces of fresh butter, put the butter, bacon, and panada, into the mortar together, pound them well, then add the meat, mix all well together, season lightly, and add four whole eggs, mixing them one at a time, then drop a piece of the forcemeat into a little boiling stock, to poach; if too tender, add the yolks of one or even two more eggs; but if, on the contrary, it should be too firm, a little white sauce (No. 7), added cold will rectify it; it is then ready for use.

In giving the last three receipts I have introduced a different method for each description of meat, although the same meat might be made into forcemeat by either process; for myself I give the preference to the former as directed for veal.

No. 123. Forcemeat of Game.

Proceed as in the last, only substituting the flesh of one or two birds for the fowl there directed.

No. 124. Forcemeat of Whitings.

Take the fillets of three whitings, take off all the skin and pound them well, then take them from the mortar, and form them into a ball, have a piece of panada (No. 125) one third the size of the ball, put the panada into the mortar, pound it well, then add two ounces of fresh butter, which mix well with the panada, then add the fish, season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all well together, then add by degrees three whole eggs and the yolks of two, try it in a little boiling water as directed for the forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), but if too firm use a little melted butter, as these are served generally as a meagre dish with a fish sauce, in Catholic families.

No. 125. Panada for forcemeats.

Put two thirds of half a pint of water into a stewpan holding a quart with nearly an ounce of butter, when boiling, stir in a quarter of a pound of flour; keep it moving over the fire until it forms a smooth and toughish paste, take it out of the stewpan and when cold use it where directed.

No. 126. Forcemeat of Cod’s Liver.

Chop half a pound of cod’s liver, with which mix a few bread crumbs and the yolks of three eggs, season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, form it into quenelles as No. 120, which use where directed.

No. 127. Veal Stuffing.

Chop three quarters of a pound of beef suet very fine, which put into a basin with six ounces of bread crumbs, a little chopped parsley, thyme, and marjoram, with a bay-leaf mixed, when chopped, being sufficient to fill three large tablespoons; amalgamate the whole with the yolks of three and three whole eggs; this is likewise used to stuff baked fish or turkeys as well as veal.

No. 128. To prepare Cockscombs.

If you should have them in the rough as taken from the fowls, put them in lukewarm water for three hours, then have some water boiling in a stewpan, into which throw them for one minute, then take them out, put them upon a rubber with a handful of salt, and rub them well until all the skin comes off, then put them into a basin of cold water for two or three hours, until they become quite white; by cutting off the tips of each they will disgorge much better; then (if about a pound of them) put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, an onion in slices, a little pepper and salt, place them over a fire one minute, then add the juice of a lemon; stew them gently until quite tender, put them by in a basin and use where directed.

No. 129. To boil Rice.

Wash well in two separate waters a pound of the best Carolina rice; then have half a gallon of water boiling in a stewpan, into which throw your rice; boil it until about three parts done, then drain it upon a sieve, butter the interior of a stewpan in which put your rice, place the lid on tight and put it in a warm oven upon a trivet until the rice is perfectly tender; serve it separate with currie or any other dish where directed. Prepared thus, every grain will be separate and quite white.

No. 130. To blanch Maccaroni.

Have half a gallon of water in a stewpan in which put two ounces of butter and an ounce of salt; when boiling throw in a pound of maccaroni, which boil until tender, being careful that it is not too much done, the time of boiling depends principally upon the quality, the Genoa maccaroni taking the longest time, and the Neapolitan the shortest, which last if too much done will fall in purée.

No. 131. Croquettes de Pomme de Terre.

Roast twelve fine potatoes; when done, take out the interior, which form into a ball; when cold put them into a mortar with a piece of butter half the size of the ball; pound them well together, season with a little salt, pepper, chopped eschalots, chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg, mix them with the yolks of six and two whole eggs; then form them into croquettes about the size and shape of a large quenelle egg, and bread-crumb them twice over, and fry them to a light brown colour in a stewpan of hot lard, and serve as garniture where required.

No. 132. Glaze.

Make a good stock of veal or beef as directed for consommé (No. 134), put the first and second stocks together in a large stewpan, the clearer the stock the better; reduce it by boiling it fast, and when becoming rather thick pour it into a smaller stewpan, stir it over a sharp fire until it has reduced to a proper consistency; use it where required. It may be put by in a bladder and kept a long time. Veal at all times makes the best glaze, but any kind of meat, game, or poultry, will produce more or less.

POTAGES OR SOUPS.

No. 133. Clear light Broth, or first Stock.

Cut up sixteen pounds of the trimmings of veal, beef, lamb, or mutton, any kind of meat will do for this stock, as it is entirely used for filling up other stocks, but it is only necessary to be made when you have a dinner party; cut up the meat with the bones, rub a quarter of a pound of butter over the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, with six large onions, two carrots, two turnips, and two heads of celery; add a quart of water, then place the stewpan over a sharp fire, cover it, and let it remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light white glaze, stirring it occasionally to prevent its burning, then fill it up with seven gallons of cold water, when it boils place it at the corner, then add a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; let it simmer three hours, keeping it well skimmed, pass it through a cloth and use it where required. I have here omitted salt, for this stock is only required to fill up others, which correctly describe their proportions of seasoning.

No. 134. Consommé, or clear Soup.

This may be made of all beef or all veal, but an equal quantity of each is the best. Cut up two knuckles of veal and a leg of beef with the bones, the whole being about sixteen pounds; rub a quarter of a pound of butter over the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, with one pound of lean ham, four onions, four turnips, two middling-sized carrots, six cloves, one blade of mace, and a pint of water; set it over a brisk fire, stirring it round occasionally until the bottom is covered with a clear light glaze, then fill it up with four gallons of light broth (No. 133), or water; when boiling place it at the corner of the stove, skim it well, add a good bunch of parsley, three sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves, a quarter of a pound of salt, two leeks, and two heads of celery; let it simmer three hours, skim off all the fat, then pass it through a cloth into a basin, give it the colour of light brown sherry with some brown gravy (No. 135), if sufficiently clear, which it will be if properly attended to. Some soups require to be lighter and some browner than others, which is easily regulated by adding more or less of the gravy. But by placing the stewpan over a slow fire when the stock is drawn down to a glaze, and allowing it to remain a short time, the glaze will become brownish, (but be careful not to let it burn,) then fill it up and your consommé will be sufficiently coloured.

But should it require clarifying, put it into a stewpan and when boiling have the whites of eight eggs with their shells in another stewpan, whisk them half a minute, then add a quart of cold stock, whisk all well together, then whisk the boiling consommé and pour in the whites of eggs; still continue whisking it over a clear fire until it simmers and the eggs separate from the consommé, which will be then quite clear; then pass it through a thin but very fine cloth into a basin and it is ready for use. This is a new mode of clarifying and cannot fail.

For the proportions for smaller quantities of consommé, to four pounds of veal put a quarter of a pound of ham, one ounce of butter, two onions, half a carrot, a turnip, half a leek, half a head of celery, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, three cloves, six peppercorns, an ounce and a half of salt and four quarts of water; it will require an hour and three quarters boiling. Or if you have to prepare it from beef, veal, and the trimmings of other meats, and require a larger quantity, take ten pounds of meat, to which add three onions, half a pound of ham, a carrot, two turnips, a leek, head of celery, two sprigs of parsley, thyme, and two bay-leaves, six cloves, six peppercorns, two ounces and a half of salt, a blade of mace, and ten quarts of water; it will require two hours and a half boiling; trimmings of rabbit, poultry, or even game, may be added, but not too much game, especially if at all high. You will here perceive that by increasing the quantity of stock there is a diminution in the quantity of seasonings and vegetables, for the larger quantity requiring a longer ebullition, extracts more flavour from the spices and vegetables; a stock for consommé by gently simmering will lose a pint and a half to every four quarts; I must here also observe that by again filling up a stock with cold water and boiling it the same time over again, you will have an excellent second stock, a little of which may be added to the first, if it should have suffered from over reduction, for vegetable soups are not so palatable when made too strong; the second stock is also very useful to fill up a first stock, whereby some of the meat otherwise required can be saved, and if not required for that it may be converted into glaze by mixing it with other stock and proceeding as directed (No. 132).

No. 135. Brown Gravy.

Butter the bottom of a thick stewpan, peel six large onions, cut them in three slices, lay them flat on the bottom of the stewpan which you have well buttered; take ten pounds of leg of beef, cut the flesh from the bone in large slices, lay it over the onions with the bones, which must be well chopped; add six cloves, two blades of mace, two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, one head of celery, and a tablespoonful of salt; put it over a brisk fire about ten minutes, shake the stewpan now and then, and when forming a brown glaze at the bottom, cover the stove with ashes; set it on again, and let it remain half an hour, until it gets very brown (but not burning); pour the fat off, which must be very clear; if not, it is not ready to fill up; fill up with ten quarts of cold water; when boiling, let it simmer at the corner of the stove two hours; skim it well, pass it through a cloth, and use it when required. Should any of the brown sauces, large or small, be too pale, use some of this gravy instead of consommé, as directed.

No. 136. Potage à la Victoria.

Cut eight pounds of veal, four pounds of scrag of lamb, and one pound of lean ham in dice; butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with three onions, two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, three bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and half a pint of broth (No. 7); place it over a slow fire, stirring it occasionally until the bottom is covered with a white glaze; then add eight quarts of light broth or water, and two ounces of salt; when it boils, place it at the corner of the stove for an hour; have ready peeled and washed four apples, eight artichokes, and two anchovies; put them in, and let them boil about an hour; afterwards pass it through a napkin; then put half a pint of pearl barley into a stewpan with the stock; when the barley has boiled quite tender mix three tablespoonfuls of arrow-root with a little cold broth, add it to the barley, pass the whole through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, and let it boil ten minutes; if it is too thick, add boiled milk to thin it. Season with half a tablespoonful of sugar, skim it well, have ready thirty cockscombs dressed as No. 128, and half a handful of picked parsley in small sprigs, and blanched; put the cockscombs, parsley, and a gill of good cream into the tureen, pour the soup in, mix well, and serve; the barley must be done sufficiently to give the soup a light consistency.

No. 137. Potage à la Louis Philippe.

Make a stock exactly as for the potage à la Victoria, and instead of mixing barley, put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, with three ounces of flour; stir it over a moderate fire about ten minutes, then let it cool; add the whole of the stock, stirring it all the time, until it boils; then put six tablespoonfuls of semolina into it, let it simmer at the corner of the stove until it is quite tender, rub it through a tammie, boil it again; have ready scooped with a small cutter about eighty pieces of turnips, put them into a stewpan with one ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, pass them over a moderate fire until half done, then throw them into the soup, and let them simmer until quite tender; season with a little salt, and when you serve it, put a gill of cream into the stewpan, mix well, and serve immediately; strew a little chopped chervil, and about sixty heads of sprue grass in the tureen, or, if in season, add thirty small Brussels sprouts, boiled very green.

No. 138. Potage à la Prince of Wales.

Cut up twelve pounds of veal with the bones, two pounds of ham, two calves’ feet, with a few pieces of trimmings of game or poultry (if any, if not add two pounds more veal), butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat with six Jerusalem artichokes, two turnips, two onions, four leeks, one head of celery, and a bouquet garni; put about a pint of broth (No. 133) into the stewpan, place it over a brisk fire, stirring it every five minutes until the bottom is covered with white glaze, then add about ten quarts of light broth (No. 133), let it boil an hour, add five middle-sized apples, peeled and cored, with four anchovies, well washed; let it simmer an hour and a half longer, skim it well, pass it through a napkin, and clarify as No. 134; cut eight small long fillets off the breast of a braised fowl, cover them all over with forcemeat (No. 122), have ready a paste-brush dipped in whites of eggs, smooth them over with it, lay them in a sauté-pan, cover them with white broth as No. 133; they must simmer gently about ten minutes. Make a custard thus: get a set of fresh lamb’s brains, wash them well, put an ounce of butter into a sauté-pan, cut the brains in thin slices, and lay them in, seasoned with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice; place them over a moderate fire until they become rather firm; put them by until quite cold, then break six eggs into a basin; beat them well, mix four spoonfuls of good broth, and a little pepper and salt with the eggs; pass it through a tammie into another basin, then mix a teaspoonful of chopped parsley with it; put some into a flat-bottomed mould about half an inch thick; steam it about two minutes; take it out, put a layer of brains upon the custard, and pour the remainder of the custard over; let it steam very quickly about half an hour, take it out, let it get rather cool, then cut your pieces of fowl and custard into middling sized pieces, diamond-shaped, about half an inch thick; have asparagus points cut and boiled in salt and water; put the asparagus, fowl, and custard into the tureen, and pour the stock very gently over, previously adding a teaspoonful of sugar. This potage, though complicated, is very easily made with a little practice; it is entirely new, very stomachic and wholesome. It must be of the colour of light sherry.

No. 139. Potage à la Comte de Paris.

Cut in large dice six pounds of veal, six do. of leg of beef, two pounds of lean ham, highly flavoured, two calves’ feet, two heads of white celery, four onions, one carrot, two turnips, three cloves, two blades of mace, and a handful of fresh parsley; put three tablespoonfuls of good salad oil into a stewpan, add the whole of the ingredients, place it over a quick fire, stir it ten minutes with a wooden spoon; then add half a pint of broth (No. 133); when the bottom is nearly dry, add ten quarts of broth, as before; when it boils, place it at the corner of the stove; skim as usual, add a tablespoonful of salt; have ready peeled and washed twelve Jerusalem artichokes, and six middle-sized apples cut in quarters, and the core taken out, which may be added when it has boiled an hour and a half; let it remain half an hour longer, then pass the stock through a napkin into a clean stewpan, replace it on the stove and clarify as No. 134. The acidity of the apples will assist the clarification of the stock and give it the brightness of sherry. Take a spring chicken braised as No. 523, cut it in ten pieces, cover each piece all over lightly with forcemeat (No. 120), butter a sauté-pan, lay them in it, have ready a paste brush dipped in whites of eggs, smooth each piece over with it, cover them with white broth (No. 133), and let them remain simmering gently about a quarter of an hour, take them out of the broth and lay them on a cloth, have ready a little riband maccaroni blanched in salt and water, drain it upon a sieve, put it into the soup and let it boil a few minutes, put the pieces of fowl into the tureen, pour the soup over, (with the maccaroni in it), and serve. This soup requires to be of the colour of pale sherry.

No. 140. Potage à la Princesse Royale.

Take all the meat off a roast fowl, pound it well in the mortar, put the bones to boil half an hour in three quarts of boiling stock (No. 7), peel six good cucumbers, cut them in slices; when this is prepared, put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter, two onions sliced, half a pound of lean ham, two bay-leaves, one branch of basil, and the cucumbers; place the whole over a brisk fire, pass them, five minutes, add one pint of broth, let it simmer half an hour, then add the pounded fowl, two ounces of flour, and four spoonfuls of sago, mix the whole well with a wooden spoon, and pour the broth over it; let it boil about twenty minutes, then rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan and stir it over the fire until it boils; be careful it is not too thick, put into it a quart of boiling milk, and skim directly, add a good spoonful of sugar and as much salt as required; put twenty pieces of cucumber, as No. 103, into the tureen, half a pint of green peas nicely boiled, and half a gill of good cream, pour the soup over, mix well, and serve. This soup must not be too thick; in fact it is much better for all thick soups to be too thin than too thick, but to be correct dip a wooden spoon into it when quite hot and it should very lightly adhere to it.

No. 141. Potage à la Saxe Cobourg.

Put half a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, half a pound of lean ham, and a large onion sliced very thin, pass it ten minutes over a slow fire; have ready, previously boiled, one hundred small Brussels sprouts, press the water from them, chop them fine, add them to the onions and butter, pass them five minutes over a brisk fire, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, add four quarts of good stock (No. 134), and a pint of boiled milk; boil it quickly ten minutes, stirring it all the time, season with a teaspoonful of sugar, a little pepper and salt, and pass it through a tammie a quarter of an hour before serving; boil and skim well, it must not be thicker than green pea-soup; put some croutons in the tureen, with twenty very small quenelles de volaille (No. 120), and serve.

No. 142. Potage à la Comtesse.

Cut half a pound of lean ham, with one onion, in small dice, have a bouquet garni, and six ounces of butter; put the whole into a stewpan over a moderate fire, stirring it about ten minutes; then cut five or six throat sweetbreads in slices (which have been previously blanched in water), put them into the stewpan and add a pint of white broth; let it simmer nearly half an hour, add four tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, pound it in a mortar, put it into the stewpan again, with about four quarts of veal stock (No. 7), set it over a brisk fire until it boils, season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, and a little white pepper; rub it through a tammie; when you serve it add a gill of cream, and croutons, cut like sixpences, and fried in half butter and half oil. If too thick moisten it with more stock to make it of the consistency of a purée.

No. 143. Potage à la Gresham.

Cut two knuckles of veal and two pounds of ham in dice, butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with three onions, one carrot, two turnips, two heads of celery, one leek, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, basil, marjoram, and a pint of white broth (No. 133); let it simmer over a moderate fire about twenty minutes, then add twelve quarts more broth; when it boils have ready half a calf’s head which has been scalded; put it into the stewpan and let it simmer two hours and a half, when done put it on a dish to cool; pass the stock through a cloth into a clean stewpan, and place it over the fire; then mix half a pound of arrow-root, with three glasses of Madeira, and half a pint of cold broth; when the stock boils add the arrow-root, stirring it all the time, (skim it well), about twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie; before serving cut about twenty pieces of the calf’s head, (free from any fat), in large dice about an inch and a half square; put them in the tureen and pour the soup over. Add a little salt and sugar if required; this soup is very delicate, but better made too thin than too thick.

No. 144. Potage à la Colbert.

Peel and wash about a dozen Jerusalem artichokes, cut them in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, lay them flat upon the table and cut them through with a cutter about the size of a large pea, wash two heads of celery well, cut them round like sixpences, peel fifty small button onions, and pass the whole in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar until no liquor remains with the vegetables and they are covered with a glaze, keeping them quite white; if any liquor remains in your vegetables it will spoil the appearance of the soup; put them into a clean stewpan with four quarts of consommé (No. 134), and half a pint of gravy (No. 135), let it simmer at the corner of the stove about ten minutes, taking care to skim it well, cut about forty pieces of cos lettuce the size of half-a-crown, which boil till done, cut twenty pieces of thin crust of French bread about the size of a shilling, which must be put into the tureen and the soup poured over.

No. 145. Potage à la Clermont.

Peel and cut thirty button onions into rings, fry them yellow in butter, cut also about sixty pieces of carrots, the size of a sixpenny piece, boil them in stock until nearly done, then put them on a sieve to drain, put four quarts of consommé (No. 134), and a gill of brown gravy (No. 135), into a stewpan with two ounces of semolina, when boiling add the carrots and onions; let it simmer twenty minutes, add a little pickled chervil, cut a small spring chicken in pieces, which has been previously braised (No. 523), put it into the soup a few minutes previous to serving, and a tablespoonful of sugar, add a little more seasoning if required.

No. 146. Potage Macédoine de Légumes.

Cut an equal quantity of carrots, turnips, celery, and Jerusalem artichokes with a scoop cutter, as large again as a pea, pass them in sugar and butter, with about a dozen button onions; have ready four quarts of consommé (No. 134), put the vegetables into it, let it boil at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, add half a cabbage lettuce cut small, ten leaves of sorrel, a few leaves of tarragon and chervil (skim it well), add a little salt if required; serve a few green peas, or asparagus boiled very green, in the tureen with the soup; give it a beautiful colour with a little brown gravy (No. 135) if required.

No. 147. Potage à la Jardinière.

Have ready the consommé clarified as previously, cut carrots, turnips, and celery, in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, cut them through with a long cutter, add ten button onions, pass them in sugar and butter as usual, put them into four quarts of clarified consommé, let it simmer at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, or until the vegetables are done, skim it well, add a small quantity of picked tarragon, chervil, and a few white leaves of a cos lettuce; season with a little salt if required; when done and ready to serve put into the tureen a few French beans, peas, cauliflower, or Brussels sprouts according to the season.

No. 148. Potage à la Julienne.

Prepare and clean three carrots, three turnips, two onions, two leeks, and one head of celery, wash them all well, cut the carrots an inch in breadth in thin slices, cut them again across into small thin stripe, if the carrots are old the red part only must be used and peeled off like ribands, as fine and regular as possible; all the vegetables must be cut in the same way; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, when it is melted, put in the onions and fry them about three minutes, then add the remainder of the vegetables, and pass them quickly with a tablespoonful of sugar, toss them over every minute, when there is no water remaining at the bottom add to them four quarts of clarified consommé, let it boil gently at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, skim well, add six sorrel leaves, one cabbage lettuce, and a little picked chervil, the lettuce and sorrel must be cut in dice, serve very hot. If not sufficiently coloured add half a pint of gravy (No. 135).

No. 149. Potage aux petits Navets à brun.

Feel ten fresh turnips, scoop as many as possible out of them with a small cutter, the size of a marble; put a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan, when it gets rather brown over the fire, put in about two ounces of butter with the turnips, toss them over the fire until they get a nice yellow colour; have ready nearly boiling four quarts of consommé (No. 134), and half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), put them into it, let it simmer about twenty minutes, or until the turnips are tender, taking care to skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar if required; the consommé must be a little browner than usual.

No. 150. Potage à la Printanière.

Cut a bunch of spring carrots, ditto of turnips, ditto of green spring onions, in thick pieces, splitting the carrots in four, and about half an inch in length, wash them well, dry on a cloth, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, have ready four quarts of consommé (No. 134), nearly boiling, put in the vegetables and let it boil at the corner of the stove fifteen minutes, skim it well, add a very little chervil and half a pint of young peas, raw, when the peas are tender it is done; put a few French beans, cut in diamonds, into the tureen, and serve.

No. 151. Potage à la Jérusalem.

Have ready two dozen artichokes peeled and washed, scoop them with a cutter, the size of a marble, pass them with butter and sugar over a moderate fire until they are quite dry, put them into four quarts of clarified consommé (No. 134), and let them simmer until tender, skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar if required; a little brown gravy (No. 135), may be added.

No. 152. Potage à la Marcus Hill.

Butter the bottom of a stewpan, take three or four pounds of the knuckle of veal, and half a pound of lean ham in dice, (in case you have no veal, beef or mutton may be used instead;) add two onions, three carrots, two turnips, and half a pint of broth (No. 133), let it simmer on a brisk fire, stir it very often, when it forms a thick jelly at the bottom fill it up with a gallon of broth or water; it must simmer on the corner of the stove an hour, taking care to skim it well until reduced to three quarts, which will be sufficient for ten or twelve persons.

Make a Chiffonade as follows:—Cut up four cabbage lettuces, one cos ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little chervil, and tarragon, with two cucumbers finely sliced, the whole being well washed and drained on a colander; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and the chiffonade over it, place it over a brisk fire until very little liquid remains; add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour, mixing it with the vegetables and stirring it well. Pour the stock over, adding a quart of young fresh peas, skim it well; half an hour’s ebullition will suffice for this delicious soup, and the flavour of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season with a teaspoonful of salt and two of sugar.

No. 153. Potage aux pointes d’Asperges et Œufs pochés.

Poach ten new laid eggs in saltwater and vinegar, rather hard, trim them, put them into the tureen, with half a pint of sprue grass, put three quarts of clarified consommé (No. 134) to boil; put into it for three minutes a fowl just roasted; when you take it out add twelve leaves of tarragon, skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar, pour it gently over the eggs, and be careful not to break them; your potage will have a most beautiful flavour of fowl, and the fowl will be as good as before for many made dishes. This soup must be of the colour of pale sherry.

No. 154. Potage à la Brunoise.

Cut two middle-sized carrots, two turnips, and four Jerusalem artichokes into thin slices, lay them separately upon a table and cut each piece through with a small diamond cutter; add one head of celery cut in small diamond-shaped pieces, and about a dozen very small onions peeled; put altogether into a stewpan with three ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar; pass them over a brisk fire until the water from the vegetables is quite dried up, and the butter and sugar form a glaze over them; put them into a clean stewpan with four quarts of clarified consommé (No. 134); toast a piece of French bread very brown, but not burnt, put it into the soup five minutes without breaking; when the vegetables are tender it is ready to serve; add about three tablespoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), and put a few pieces of very white cauliflower into the tureen.

No. 155. Potage à la Nivernaise.

Cut an equal quantity of all kinds of vegetable in thin slices, lay them on the table and cut them through with a cutter the shape of a heart, pass them in butter and sugar, have ready four quarts of consommé (No. 134), blanch one ounce of Italian paste in salt and water, put it into the soup ten minutes before serving; skim well, add a little sugar, and put four large quenelles (No. 120) cut in slices, into the tureen.

No. 156. Potage à la Palestine.

Cut two onions, half a pound of lean ham, one turnip, one head of celery, two bay-leaves and a sprig of thyme; put the whole into a stewpan with half a pound of butter, let it fry on a slow fire about twenty minutes (stirring it all the time), when forming a white glaze at the bottom, take it off the fire; have ready peeled and washed a dozen and a half of Jerusalem artichokes (if they are large, if small a larger quantity will be required) cut in thin slices; put them into the stewpan with half a pint of white broth (No. 133), let it simmer until tender; add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix the whole well together; add four quarts of good stock, and a pint of boiled milk; stir it until boiling, season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, rub it through a tammie, boil it again and skim, fry croutons of bread (cut small) in butter; when ready to serve add a gill of cream and three yolks of eggs made in a liaison in the tureen, pour the soup over; (if too thick add a little more stock); put in the croutons and serve.

No. 157. Potage à la purée de Navets.

Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, with two onions, one head of celery, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a bouquet garni, stir it over a moderate fire about ten minutes, then add half a pint of white broth (No. 133), with three pounds of turnips, peeled, washed and cut in thin slices; place them over a slow fire until they are quite tender; then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well together, add three quarts of broth, stir it until boiling, season with a little white pepper, and a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar; skim it well, pass it through a tammie, boil it again, add a pint of boiled milk, skim it well ten minutes; when you serve add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, pour the soup in the tureen with small dice of fried bread. It must be rather thin.

No. 158. Potage à purée d’Asperges.

Cut two fresh bundles of sprue grass, boil very quickly in salt and water until tender; put four ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan with half a spoonful of chopped onions; when it is melted mix the sprue with it, then add three spoonfuls of flour, and four quarts of veal stock with one pint of boiled milk, let it boil five minutes, stirring it all the time; season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, and a little white pepper; pass it through a tammie, boil it again in a clean stewpan ten minutes, and skim it well; serve half a pint of sprue grass nicely boiled in it.

No. 159. Potage à la Crécy.

Scrape, wash, and cut in thin slices, some carrots; take three pounds and a half of the red part only, lay them on a sieve to drain, put into a stewpan half a pound of lean ham, two onions, and one head of celery sliced, add half a pound of butter, three cloves, one blade of mace, pass it over a moderate fire twenty minutes, then add the carrots with one pint of white broth (No. 133), when quite tender add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, put four quarts of white veal stock; let it simmer nearly an hour, skim it well, rub it through a tammie, boil it again, if too thick add a little more broth, put fried bread into the tureen, season with a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little salt and pepper if required.

No. 160. Potage à la purée de Choufleur.

Boil three large white cauliflowers in salt and water until quite tender, chop them very fine, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, one leek, one head of celery (in slices) a quarter of a pound of ham, and two bay-leaves, pass them ten minutes over a quick fire; add the cauliflower, and three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, add three quarts of white stock, and one ditto of boiled milk; stir it until boiling, rub it through a tammie, boil and skim well; season with a teaspoonful of sugar, half ditto of salt; finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream; pour the soup into the tureen, have a cauliflower boiled, and cut into twenty small sprigs, put them into the soup, but be sure not to break them.

No. 161. Potage à la purée de Concombres.

Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, slice two eschalots, six Jerusalem artichokes, (if early in the spring, but they may be omitted,) half a pound of lean ham, and six cucumbers peeled very carefully, as the least green would give a bad flavour; stir it over a slow fire twenty minutes, then add the meat of half a braised fowl (No. 523), well pounded, and three spoonfuls of flour, mix well; add three quarts of veal stock, and a quart of boiled milk, let it boil, keeping it stirred, rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, skim it well; season with one teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, have ready about twenty pieces of cucumber, stewed as (No. 103), put them into the tureen, add half a pint of good cream to the soup, and serve. It must not be too thick.

No. 162. Potage à la purée de Pois verts.

Cut a quarter of a pound of lean bacon in dice; put it into a stewpan with a good bunch of green onions, ditto of parsley, a small piece of mint, a quarter of a pound of butter, and three quarts of very fresh peas, pour some cold water over, wash the peas well—in mixing the butter with them pour off all the water; place them over a brisk fire until they are quite tender, then pound them in a mortar, put back into the stewpan, add three tablespoonfuls of flour; (mix it well), and about four quarts of good broth; stir it until boiling, skim well; season with a teaspoonful of salt, three ditto of sugar, and a little white pepper, pass it through a tammie and boil again; when you serve it have ready some croutons (small dice of fried bread), put them in the tureen. Do not serve it too thick.

No. 163. Clear Giblet Soup.

Cut six pounds of knuckle of veal, with the bones, and one pound of lean ham in large dice, have three onions, two turnips, one carrot, two heads of celery, a bouquet garni, and a tablespoonful of salt; butter a stewpan lightly, put in the whole of the ingredients, add six cloves, two blades of mace, and half a pint of water; pass it over a brisk fire about twenty minutes, stirring every two or three minutes; when there is a white glaze upon the spoon add eight quarts of broth (No. 133), or water; directly it boils place it at the corner of the stove, scald the giblets in boiling water five minutes, take them out, and cut them in joints, the gizzard in four pieces; put them into the stock and let them simmer gently until they are quite tender, which will be about two hours and a half; take them out, pass the stock through a cloth, and clarify as (No. 134); have ready some carrots and turnips scooped with a small cutter, two heads of celery cut in small dice, and passed in butter and sugar, put them into the soup, and let them boil gently until quite tender; skim well, season with a little salt and sugar; put the giblets, with some French beans or peas, into the tureen and pour the soup over.

No. 164. Potage aux Queues de Bœuf (clair.)

Cut six pounds of leg of beef in large dice, without bones, cut two ox tails in joints, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of ham, one carrot, one head of celery, four onions, two ounces of butter, half a pint of white broth (No. 133), six cloves, one blade of mace, and a tablespoonful of salt; pass it over a moderate fire half an hour, stirring it every five minutes; when getting a yellow glaze at the bottom put some ashes on the stove to slacken the fire, let it remain twenty minutes longer, until the bottom is covered with a brown glaze, then add two gallons of cold water, start it on a quick fire, skim it, and let it simmer on the corner of the stove for two hours, or until the ox tail is quite tender; then take all the pieces of ox tail out and put them by until wanted; pass the stock through a napkin into a clean stewpan, have ready some vegetables cut like for jardinière (No. 147), pass them in sugar and butter, put them into the stock, boil until quite tender; season with a little more salt if required, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little cayenne; ten minutes previous to serving add a bunch of parsley with a little thyme and bay-leaf, and the ox tails; take out the parsley and serve very hot.

No. 165. Potage aux Queues d’Agneau.

Cut six pounds of trimmings of lamb or veal, half a pound of ham, a large bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves and marjoram, three cloves, one blade of mace; put three tablespoonfuls of salad oil into a stewpan with the ingredients, and half a pint of white broth, cut six lamb’s tails in joints an inch long, put them into the stewpan with one calf’s foot cut in pieces, pass it ten minutes over a brisk fire, then add six quarts of broth (No. 133), or water, and two ounces of salt, when boiling, skim well, and let it simmer on the corner of the stove about an hour; take out the pieces of tails and pass the stock through a napkin into a stewpan, mix two ounces of arrowroot with a gill of cold broth, and a glass of Madeira, throw it into the boiling stock, stir well all the time, skim; season with two teaspoonfuls of sugar, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan; put in the pieces of tail ten minutes before serving; be careful to take off any fat which may rise from them, add juice of a lemon and serve.

No. 166. Potage aux Queues de veau (clair).

Proceed exactly as in the last, but instead of lamb use veal, for stock, cut four calves’ tails in pieces half an inch long, allow more time to stew, being larger, but finish the same way.

No. 167. Potage à la Duchesse.

Cut eight pounds of veal, one pound of ham, and one calf’s foot in dice, butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat with two onions, the peel of half a lemon, and half a pint of broth (No. 133); pass the whole over a brisk fire, until forming a white glaze, then add eight quarts of broth, or water, and half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), when boiling, let it simmer at the corner of the stove about two hours, boil a fowl in it, skim it well, pass through a tammie; put two ounces of arrowroot into a basin, mix with half a pint of cold broth, add it to the boiling stock, skim well, boil twenty minutes, have ready a small spring chicken braised, when cold cut it in nice pieces, have ready also about forty small quenelles de volaille (No. 120), put them into the soup and serve. The fowl that you boil in the stock may be used instead of the chicken.

No. 168. Clear Grouse Soup.

Cut six pounds of leg of beef in large dice, with two wild rabbits, and one pound of lean ham, butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with two calf’s feet, two onions, four leeks, one carrot, two turnips, a bunch of thyme, marjoram, bay-leaves, and parsley, a blade of mace, and six cloves all inclosed in the bunch; set the stewpan over a brisk fire, add one pint of broth (No. 133), stir it until forming a white glaze, then add eight quarts of water, and nearly a pint of brown gravy (No. 135); when boiling about an hour add the trimmings of three grouse which have been previously roasted underdone, (cut the fillets and legs in pieces and reserve for the tureen;) let it simmer one hour longer, pass through a napkin into a clean stewpan when near boiling, add an ounce of arrowroot mixed with two glasses of port wine and a little cold broth; season with a tablespoonful of salt and half ditto of sugar; boil twenty minutes, pour into your tureen over the grouse, and serve very hot. The above quantity would be sufficient for two tureens.

No. 169. Clear Partridge Soup.

Proceed exactly the same as in the last, being very particular that the birds are young and not over done.

No. 170. Clear Pheasant Soup.

Prepare the soup as before, two young pheasants will be enough, but they must hang until full flavoured, or it would not taste of game. Where pheasants are plentiful some may be used instead of the rabbits.

No 171. Clear Woodcock Soup.

Roast two or three woodcocks, well wrapped in paper, underdone, let them cool, cut them in pieces like the grouse, put the trimmings into the soup, which must be the same as the grouse soup (No. 168); put the inside of the woodcocks in the mortar, pound well, mix four ounces of forcemeat (No. 122) with it, add one yolk of egg, take a knife, surround every part of the pieces with it, poach them gently in a sauté-pan with a little stock, put them into the tureen and pour the consommé over.

No. 172. Clear Hare Soup.

Cut a young hare in small pieces, the legs in two pieces, ditto the shoulders, and the back in six pieces, put them in a stewpan with half a pound of lean ham cut in dice, half a pound of butter, eight cloves, two blades of mace, twenty peppercorns, fry the whole twenty minutes over a moderate fire; when the hare is getting firm throw over it an ounce of arrowroot, mix well, add six quarts of consommé (No. 134) and one of water, let it boil nearly two hours, or until the hare is done, which you may easily ascertain with a fork, if quite tender put into a small stewpan until wanted, pass the stock through a fine sieve; have ready four heads of good white celery washed, cut all the best part in diamonds, pass them in butter and sugar, then add about a pint of the stock and simmer until tender, keeping it well skimmed; before serving add the celery, pieces of hare, one glass of port wine, quarter of a tablespoonful of salt, and one ditto of sugar; serve very hot, pouring it over some of the best pieces of hare which you have reserved for your tureen, nicely trimmed.

No. 173. Potage clair à la Poissonière.

Prepare a good stock of eight pounds of veal, half a pound of ham, one carrot, one turnip, four onions, four cloves, two blades of mace, two heads of celery, and half a pint of broth; pass it over a brisk fire twenty minutes, when there is a white glaze at the bottom add two gallons of broth (No. 133), or water, and a tablespoonful of salt, then add a small cod’s head, let it simmer two hours, skim well, pass through a cloth into a clean stewpan, put it again on the stove to reduce one third, have ready scalded and bearded four dozen of fresh oysters and a pint of muscles, fillet one sole, cut it in diamonds; quarter of an hour before serving dinner put into the soup the oysters, muscles, and fillets of soles, with half a handful of picked parsley; let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, add a little salt if required, and a teaspoonful of sugar with a little cayenne, and serve very hot.

No. 174. Grouse Soup.

Roast two or three grouse, take off all the flesh, reserving some of the fillets, which cut in thin slices and serve with the soup in the tureen; put the bones in a stewpan with two quarts of first stock (No. 133)—boil them half an hour—place the flesh into a mortar, pound it well, then put two onions, half a carrot, and a turnip, in slices into a stewpan, with half a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, two bay-leaves, six peppercorns, and half a blade of mace; stir them five minutes over the fire, then add a pint of stock, and stew them until tender, when add the flesh of the birds and four ounces of flour; mix them well together, then add the stock from the bones, half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135) and some consommé (No. 134), making altogether five quarts, boil twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season with a little salt and a tablespoonful of sugar; pass it through a tammie, then put it into another stewpan, boil it again, skim well, pour it into a tureen in which you have put some croutons and the pieces of fillets; serve very hot.

No. 175. Pheasant Soup.

Prepare this soup exactly as the last, but finishing with milk or cream, and omitting the brown gravy, as this soup must be kept white.

No. 176. Partridge Soup.

Roast four partridges, and proceed as in the last.

No. 177. Hare Soup.

Cut eight pounds of beef and veal, with about a pound of bacon, in large dice, have three onions, two turnips, two carrots, four bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, basil, and three heads of celery; butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat and vegetables with a pint of broth, place it over a moderate fire, cut the hare in pieces (rather small), put it into the stewpan, stir it every six minutes until it is covered with a brown glaze, then add three quarters of a pound of flour over the meat, mix well with eight quarts of broth (No. 133), and a pint of brown gravy (No. 135); let it simmer until the hare is quite tender, take it out of the stewpan, then trim about ten or twelve of the best pieces for the tureen, pull all the meat from the remainder, pound it well in the mortar and add it to the purée; pass it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, place it on the stove to boil again; mix the following ingredients in a basin, two tablespoonfuls of flour, eight ditto of port wine, half ditto of salt, a good pinch of cayenne pepper, one ditto of sugar, mix well with half a pint of cold broth (No. 133), add it to the soup when upon the point of boiling; stir it well, serve very hot; two heads of celery may be added cut small, passed in butter, and boiled until tender.