The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery / With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

by Alexis Soyer

DOE VENISON, OR CHEVREUIL.

The flesh of the doe or roebuck is a kind of black meat, and possesses a wild gamey taste; it is seldom used without being pickled in a marinade, and is sent to the table with a sharp and savoury sauce.

No. 776. Cotelettes de Chevreuil à la Bohémienne.

Cut twelve cotelettes from the necks, the same as you would mutton, but they will be rather larger, make two quarts of the marinade as for filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne (No. 426), and lay in the cotelettes, let them remain four days; when ready for use take them out, dry upon a cloth, season with a little pepper and salt, dip in flour, egg and bread-crumb afterwards, dip them in clarified butter, and again in the bread-crumbs, beat them lightly with a knife, place them on a gridiron, broil nicely, dress them in crown, and have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of the marinade in a stewpan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, reduce it a little, then add twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) and six of consommé, reduce again until it adheres to the back of the spoon, season a little high, add half a tablespoonful of currant jelly, sauce round and serve. Garniture as for cotelettes de mutton may be introduced.

No. 777. Cotelettes de Chevreuil sauté sauce poivrade.

Having cut twelve cotelettes, season with pepper and salt, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, melt it and lay in the cotelettes, put them over a sharp fire and when partly done turn, keeping them underdone; take all the butter away without disturbing the cotelettes, then pour a pint of thin poivrade sauce (No. 32) and half a pint of consommé over, let them simmer about ten minutes till the meat has taken the flavour of the sauce, dress the cotelettes as before, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the spoon, add twenty pickled mushrooms, sauce over and serve.

No. 778. Minced Chevreuil.

With the remains of a haunch or any other part from a previous dinner, take the meat and cut it up in very thin slices, have ready boiling on the fire about a pint of sauce piquante (No. 27), throw in the meat, but do not let it boil; after the meat is in, season rather high, and finish with a spoonful of currant jelly, it requires to be rather thick, turn it out on your dish and garnish round with triangular scippets of bread fried in butter, serve immediately.

No. 779. Of the Wild Boar.

The principal and most recherché part of this ferocious animal is the head, which is eaten cold, stuffed the German fashion; it is, however, a second course dish, and will be given in that series. The cotelettes are dressed exactly as the chevreuil, it may also be minced, but as it is seldom or ever eaten in this country, I shall content myself with these few remarks (see Boar’s Head, No. 984).

No. 780. Of Venison for Entrées.

The haunches and necks are usually roasted, its high price would prevent its being cut up for entrées, as that would only be spoiling a noble dish to make a small one, and then would not be so delicious as the joint nicely roasted, but in large families in the country, where venison is very plentiful, the receipts for a few entrées may be very acceptable.

No. 781. Cotelettes de Venaison en demi-glace.

A neck of venison requires to be hung a fortnight or three weeks before it is ready; cut the cotelettes as described for mutton, but of course they will be larger, and you must leave as much of the fat as possible, and be careful in beating it flat not to detach the fat from the lean, as the fat is so delicate; put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan to melt, lay the cotelettes over and place them on a brisk fire, when half done turn them, fry them a good colour, (they are done when they feel firm to the touch,) lay upon a cloth, dress in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, and place them in the oven to keep hot, pour off the fat from the sauté-pan, and put in a glass of port wine, let reduce a little, then add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) and four spoonfuls of consommé, reduce till it adheres to the spoon, add a little sugar and a pat of butter, mix well, and sauce over the cotelettes, which serve as hot as possible.

No. 782. Cotelettes de Venaison aux olives.

Proceed exactly as above, but just before pouring the sauce over add about twenty stoned olives, dress them in the centre, sauce over and serve; truffles or mushrooms may likewise be introduced.

No. 783. Cotelettes de Venaison au jus de groseilles.

Sauté and dress your cotelettes as above, then put a pint of thin sauce poivrade (No. 32) in the sauté-pan with a little consommé, reduce till thickish, skim a little, add a spoonful of currant jelly, sauce over and serve.

No. 784. Hashed Venison.

The remains of a haunch of venison when cold is much thought of as hash, under which humble name it makes its appearance amongst the most sumptuous dishes, and is a great favourite with epicures, but if no fat remains do not attempt to dress it; but a good haunch well-carved will supply sufficient fat to hash the remainder.

Put a quart of good brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with a pint of consommé (No. 134), a piece of glaze, and a good bunch of parsley, let reduce to a good demi-glace, skim, then have as much venison as you require cut in thin slices, the fat thicker than the lean, put it into the sauce, season with pepper and salt, put it over a sharp fire to get hot as quick as possible, but do not let it boil or it would get hard and become very greasy, serve as hot as possible, with red currant jelly separate, make only sufficient for one entrée.

No. 785. Venison Pie.

May also be made from the remains of a haunch in a common pie-dish or silver soufflée-dish; put some thin slices of venison at the bottom of the dish, season with pepper, salt, and little chopped eschalot, then a layer of fat, proceeding alternately till the dish is full, building it up to form a dome and give the pie a good appearance, put in a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, a few spoonfuls of gravy, and four of brown sauce, cover with puff-paste (No. 1132), make a hole in the top, egg over, and bake in a hot oven; when done pour about six spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into it with a funnel, shake it about a little and serve very hot. Should you require to make a pie with raw venison pass it a few minutes in butter in a sauté-pan upon the stove.

ENTREES OF POULTRY.

No. 786. Estomacs de Dinde à la Turenne.

Many entrées may be made of turkey, but it is usually served as a remove, being too large, and consequently too expensive to cut up; but several entrées may be made from the remains of one previously served, for the following choose very young small turkeys.

Have a young turkey well plucked and drawn, with a sharp knife cut off the whole of the breast, leaving nothing but the legs and backbone, then carefully skin and bone the breast without separating the fillets, it will then be in the form of a heart; lard one of the fillets as you would a sweetbread, and cover the other with a slice of fat bacon, put three onions, one carrot, and one turnip, in slices, into a convenient-sized stewpan, with a little parsley, thyme, and two bay-leaves, cover them with half a pint of stock, lay the breast over and start it to boil over the fire, then place it in a moderate oven till tender, glaze and salamander the larded fillet a light yellow colour, but keep the other white, drain upon a clean cloth, and serve with a sauce à la purée de truffes (No. 53) under them.

No. 787. Estomac de Dinde à la Jeune Comtesse.

Prepare the breast as above, only larding and glazing both fillet; you have previously roasted the legs tied up in vegetables, take off all the flesh, which pound well in a mortar and pass through a wire sieve, then put a spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two pats of butter, place it over the fire a few minutes till the eschalots become a little yellow, then add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour (mix well,) and the purée of turkey, which cover with half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and six spoonfuls of white broth, stir over the fire until boiling, season with a little sugar, pepper, and salt, and pass it through a tammie with a couple of wooden spoons, put it in a clean stewpan, boil a few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream and a pat of butter, which stir in quickly, pour it in your dish, dress the breast over and serve. The above purée requires to be rather thick, but at the same time delicate, if there is more than you require, reserve some of it, as too much sauce would spoil the look of the entrée.

No. 788. Escalopes de Dinde en blanquette.

Take out the two fillets of a turkey, and take off all the skin, then beat them to the thickness of a five-shilling-piece, and from each fillet cut five escalopes in a slanting direction, put two ounces of fresh butter in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when melted lay in the escalopes, season lightly with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place them on a slow fire, turn them, pour off all the butter from the sauté-pan, and cover with fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) and four of milk, place over the fire, let it simmer a few minutes, take it off and stir in quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with three spoonfuls of cream, stir over the fire another half minute, but do not let it boil, dress them garnished with croutons on your dish and serve; a few mushrooms and slices of cooked tongue might also be introduced.

No. 789. Escalopes de Dinde à la Belle Fermière.

Fillet a turkey as before, and cut each escalope into an oval shape, season with a little salt and pepper, egg and bread-crumb, fry a light brown colour in clarified butter, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes in crown, with a large dressed cockscomb (No. 128) between each, sauce in the middle and round as for estomac de dinde (No. 787), and serve very hot.

No. 790. Emincée de Dinde à l’Italienne

Is made with the remains of a turkey from a previous dinner, cut large slices from the breast-part, as much as you may require, and put them into a stewpan with six gherkins cut in long slices, have ready a pint of good sauce Italienne (No. 31), and when boiling pour it over; warm them gently, but do not let them boil, and serve in a dish with very small croquettes de pommes de terre (No. 131) round.

No. 791. Blanquette de Dinde au Jambon.

Cut up the remains of a turkey as above, and put it in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of lean ham (cooked) also in slices, in another stewpan, have a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of white stock, which boil with a few trimmings of mushrooms, then pass it through a tammie over the slices of turkey, place it on the fire, let simmer a few minutes, season with a little sugar and salt, add the juice of half a lemon, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream, serve plain in your dish, or in a vol-au-vent or casserole of rice (No. 626).

Croquettes, rissolettes, and boudins are made with the remains of turkey, in the same manner as described for fowls (No. 840).

No. 792. Filets de Poulardes à l’Ambassadrice.

Poulardes being smaller than capons, are better adapted for entrées, but both are dressed in the same manner.

Have previously roasted in vegetables and quite white two small poulardes; when cold, with a sharp knife cut out the fillets, which again cut into two equal slices, beat them slightly with the blade of a strong knife, then have ready half a pound of delicate forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), with which put a couple of finely chopped truffles, cover each piece of fillet the eighth of an inch thick, and all over, then have chopped finely two more truffles, the same quantity of lean ham, mix the same quantity of bread-crumbs with each, egg the fillets over, then dip them into the chopped ham and truffles, four into each, and sauté them in clarified butter very gently, turn them when half done, and when done dress them in crown upon your dish; have ready a thin sauce à la purée de concombres (No. 105), to which when boiling add twelve fine cockscombs (No. 128) and a little cream, sauce in the middle, and serve.

No. 793. Filets de Poularde à la Marie Stuart.

Fillet a poularde by splitting the skin up the breast, and passing your knife down the bone, keeping close to the ribs until you have scooped them out, then lay them flat on a board, and with a thin knife take off the inner skin, leaving the upper one untouched; then cut off the legs, with as much skin as possible attached, bone them, and prepare the following stuffing: scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, and put it in a stewpan, with four cloves, a blade of mace, six peppercorns and a bay-leaf, pass them over the fire five minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add six large truffles cut in thin slices, pass them three minutes over the fire, then add twelve spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), boil altogether ten minutes, keeping it stirred, season with a little salt, pepper, sugar, and a little nutmeg; take it off the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg very quickly; when cold stuff the legs, braise, and give them the form of little ducks; then stuff the fillets with the best slices of truffles under the skin, and put them in a sauté-pan, with half a pound of butter, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, sauté them very white over a slow fire, then make a little pyramid of mashed potatoes in the middle of your dish, lay the two fillets almost upright against it, opposite to each other, and the two legs on the other sides, surmount them with a very nice, white, dressed calf’s ear (No. 665) cut as a frill, with a plover’s egg (shelled) placed in the centre, make a good stock with the bones of the poularde (see No. 6), skim off all the fat, and reduce it very nearly to a glaze, then add six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) and half a gill of cream; boil altogether a minute, sauce over, and serve. The entrée will stand best upon a pyramid of mashed potatoes, but a pyramid of forcemeat blanched in stock may be used.

No. 794. Filets de Poulardes à la Talma.

Fillet two poulardes as described in the last, then take off the filet mignon, or small fillet, from the under part of each, lard the large fillet neatly as you would a sweetbread, and braise them as described for the estomac de dinde (No. 786), then have twelve French beans boiled nice and green, cut pieces from them in half circles, beat the small fillets gently, make incisions in them, in which stick the pieces of French beans, sauté them in a sauté-pan, keeping them quite white, then have ready some spinach dressed (No. 106) rather stiff, make a pyramid of it in the centre of the dish, dress the fillets almost perpendicular against it, with the smaller fillets between, the points uppermost, and on the top place a quenelle de volaille (No. 122), in which you have stuck a fine cockscomb, pass the braise in which you dressed the fillets through a sieve, skim off all the fat, and place it in a stewpan, with ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar, sauce over, glaze your fillets and serve.

No. 795. Filets de Poularde à la Russe.

Prepare a little rice as for a casserole de riz (No. 626), with which form a small pyramid to stand in the centre of your dish, egg over and stand it in the oven to set, then cut a piece off the top, and empty a space large enough to hold a quarter of a pint; at the top of the pyramid there requires a space the size of half-a-crown, after you have emptied it put the top on again, and keep it hot; then fillet two poulardes as above, take off the small fillets, which form into rings by bringing the two ends together, butter a sauté-pan, in which lay the fillets, with the rings, season with a little white pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; place them over the fire, when half done turn them, but keep them quite white, have also previously boiled a Russian tongue, from the thick part cut four pieces the size and shape of the fillets of fowl, but not quite so thick, place the rice in the centre of your dish, and dress the fillet of poulardes and pieces of tongue, (which you have made hot in a little white stock,) alternately round it, put twenty stewed mushrooms in the rice croustade, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan, with the broth you warmed the tongue in and six spoonfuls of veal stock; boil altogether ten minutes, pass it through a tammie into a stewpan, boil again till it becomes rather thick, then add a little sugar and a gill of cream, sauce over the mushrooms till the croustade is full, then over the fillets, glaze the tongue, place the rings on the top of the pyramid, pour the remainder of the sauce round and serve; the person that carves should be acquainted that the croustade of rice contains mushrooms, that he might carve the croustade and serve with the entree.

No. 796. Filet de Poularde à la Pierre le Grand.

Fillet two poulardes as in the last, and when about three parts cooked lay them on a cloth, and with a thin sharp knife divide each fillet into two; have previously boiled a Russian tongue as in the last, cut also four pieces from the thick part, and pound the remaining tender part very fine; rub it through a wire sieve, then put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, stir over the fire a few minutes, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, and a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce it a little, then add the pounded tongue and two yolks of eggs, stir them in quickly, and season a little more if required, stir over the fire a short time longer, till the eggs begin to set, then with a fork dip in each fillet, let them be well covered, and lay them on a dish to get cold, when egg and bread-crumb them twice over, and fry a good colour in four pounds of very hot lard, warm the four pieces of tongue in a little stock, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets in crown with the pieces of tongue interspersed; you have previously made a stock with the bones of the poulardes (No. 6), which reduce to a thin glaze, add a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and sauce round; fry two bunches of watercresses very crisp, sprinkle a little salt over, dress them in the middle and serve very hot.

No. 797. Filets de Poularde à la Dumas.

Fillet two poulardes and divide the fillets as in the last; when three parts cooked have ready the following puree: peel and cut in thin slices a very fresh cucumber, which put in a stewpan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots and three pats of butter, pass gently over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping them stirred, then add half a tablespoonful of flour and a pint of white sauce (No. 7); season with a little sugar and salt, rub it through a tammie, previously boiling five minutes, put it into another stewpan, with two yolks of eggs, stir quickly over the fire till the yolk sets, then dip in the fillets and proceed as in the last, dress the same and serve with a puree of cucumbers (No. 105), in which you have put three spoonfuls of cream. These entrées should be served immediately or they become soft.

Poulardes and capons may also be served in escalopes or blanquettes, as directed for the turkey (Nos. 788 and 789), especially any fillets that may be left neither larded or fried.

No. 798. Blanc de Poularde aux concombres.

Roast a large poularde in vegetables (see No. 417), and when cold cut the breast out carefully, and afterwards into thin slices, make a stock with the bones as directed (No. 6), then peel two cucumbers, which cut into pieces two inches in length, split each piece into four and take out the seeds if any, trim them at the corners and put them into a stewpan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots and two pats of butter, place them over a slow fire tossing them occasionally; when a little tender pour off the butter and place in the pieces of poularde, then put the stock from the bones in a stewpan, not more than a pint, and reduce it to half, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and a little sugar, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then take it off the fire, and stir in a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, pass it through a tammie over the pieces of poularde and cucumbers, and stand in the bain marie to get hot, serve plain in a deep entrée dish.

This dish is much thought of by great epicures, the eyes are certainly not treated, but the palate is delighted. The same description of entrée may be made the next day from the legs.

No. 799. Cuisses de Poulardes à la Talleyrand de Périgord.

Bone the legs of two poulardes, leaving as much skin as possible on them, then stuff and braise them as directed for poularde à la Marie Stuart (No. 528), only place slices of truffles between the flesh and the skin, then poach a square piece of forcemeat (No. 120) three inches high, and smaller at the top than the bottom; when cold place it on a cloth and cut it in the shape of a pyramid according to the size of your dish, make it hot in some stock, take it out carefully and fix it in the centre of your dish upon a piece of mashed potato, then take up the legs, draw out the thread and place them on a cloth to drain; have four very small silver skewers, or atelettes, place a nice truffle warmed in stock on each, dress a leg upon each side of the pyramid upon a piece of mashed potato, perpendicular, and run an atelette through each at the top, fixing it to the forcemeat, they being nearly upright; then have ready the following sauce: chop four small truffles and put them in a stewpan, with half a glass of Madeira wine, reduce a minute, then add the stock the legs were braised in (having previously passed it through a cloth and taken off the whole of the fat), and twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1); reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

To simplify the above they may be cooked as described, and dressed plain on the dish with the sauce over.

No. 800. Cuisses de Poulardes au Soleil.

Bone the legs of two poulardes, leaving as much skin on as possible, season them with a little pepper and salt inside, then have ready a quarter of a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), chop two ounces of lean cooked ham, mix it with the forcemeat, stuff the legs with it, sew them up with a piece of packthread, then hold them a quarter of a minute over a charcoal fire to make the skin firm, have some bacon cut very fine, and with it lard a circle very neatly (forming rays), upon the top of each, braise them as directed (No. 793), have also ready a pyramid of forcemeat as in the last, when the legs are done prick a hole in the centre of the larded circle, in which place a piece of truffle to resemble a clove but six times the size of one, prepare four little silver atelettes or skewers with a dressed cockscomb upon each, dish the legs precisely as in the last, and serve with a purée of mushrooms (No. 54) round. This may also be simplified by serving the legs plain in the dish with the puree under.

No. 801. Cuisses de Poulardes à l’Ecaillère.

Bone and season four legs as above, have ready a quarter of a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix ten well blanched oysters cut in quarters, and the yolk of an egg, stuff the legs, sew them with packthread, and braise them as before; prepare also a pyramid of forcemeat as before, have four little atelettes and place a craw-fish (No. 380) upon each, dress the legs with the atelettes as before, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of oyster liquor; reduce it to a proper thickness, add half a gill of cream, mix well, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, into which put two dozen blanched oysters, season with a little cayenne pepper; warm altogether, sauce over and serve.

No. 802. Cuisses de Poulardes farcis aux petits légumes.

Bone and season four legs as before, stuff them with a quarter of a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), and braise them as before, make a pyramid of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish and dress a leg on each side; you have previously turned twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips in the shape of small pears, and stewed with sufficient stock to cover them, in which you put half a teaspoonful of sugar; when tender dry them on a cloth, and stick them alternately in the potatoes above and around the legs very tastefully; then put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) with the stock you stewed your vegetables in, add a bunch of parsley and half a bay-leaf, with six spoonfuls of consommé; reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, add a pat of butter, sauce over and serve.

No. 803. Cuisses de Poulardes en fricassée à l’hôtelière.

Bone, stuff, and braise as before four legs of poulardes, make a pyramid of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish, draw out the packthread, drain the legs on a cloth, dress them round, place a fine craw-fish on the top, and have ready the following sauce: peel fifty small button onions and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of white sauce and half a pint of white stock, add a small bunch of parsley and half a bay-leaf; let simmer till the onions are tender, keeping it skimmed, then take out the parsley and bay-leaf, and with a colander spoon take out all the onions, which deposit in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, season with a little salt, sugar, and lemon-juice, and finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, pass it through a tammie over the onions, warm altogether without letting it boil, sauce over and serve.

No. 804. Cuisses de Poulardes à la Bayonnaise.

Procure four legs of poulardes and take out the thigh-bone, leaving the one in the leg, but cut off above the knuckle; then put four spoonfuls of salad oil in a stewpan, season the legs with a little pepper and salt, and lay them in, place the stewpan over a slow fire, cover it, and let them remain till they get a yellowish colour, turn, and when three parts done add thirty button onions cut in rings, set it over a sharp fire to give a tinge to the onions, pour off as much oil as possible, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and half the quantity of white stock, let simmer until it becomes rather thick, then take out the legs, which dress flat on your dish; season the sauce a little more if required, add the yolks of two eggs, stir them in quickly, sauce over, sprinkle bread-crumbs upon them, place a small piece of butter on each leg, place them in the oven a quarter of an hour, salamander a light brown and serve.

No. 805. Entrees of Spring Chickens, Pullets, Fowls, etc.

The number of entrées which may be made of this kind of poultry is immense, but to abbreviate and avoid repetition I have classified the three sorts together, so that the following entrées may be made from either of the three sorts, but for many entrées the spring chickens are preferable; the pullets are generally most used, especially for fillets, for if the fillets are very small the least neglect would make them very dry and uneatable, two large fillets are again awkward, however tender, there being too much for one and not enough for two; but I have made this observation merely to state that the same entrées may be made from either where you happen to have them in the house.

No. 806. Filets de Volaille à la Sévigné.

Take two nice plump pullets, fillet them as directed for the poularde (No. 792), detach the filet mignon, or small fillet, from each, lay the fillets on a board, dip your cotelette-bat in water, beat one of the small fillets flat, then another and lay on the top of it, thus making two large fillets of the four small, then with a thin knife detach the skin from the large ones, melt two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, lay in the fillets, which season lightly with white pepper, salt, and juice of a lemon; stand it by till ready, then make some forcemeat with the legs as directed (No. 122), from which make six flat long quenelles with two tablespoons, and poach them in a little stock, place the fillets over the fire, turning them when half done, but keeping them quite white, (the two small fillets will be done before the others,) be sure and not do them too much, they are done as soon as they feel firm to the touch; then make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets half way round and the quenelles the other, making them stand as high as possible, sauce over with a thin purée of cucumbers (No. 105); have ready a handful of green peas nicely boiled, which sprinkle over and serve.

No. 807. Filets de Volaille à la Néva.

Fillet and dress two fowls as above, likewise make the forcemeat and six quenelles with the legs, when the quenelles are partly cold dip them in a basin containing two eggs well beaten, take them out with a fork, and sprinkle some chopped boiled Russian tongue over, place them in an entrée-dish, cover and put them in a hot closet for an hour, cook the fillets as before; make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets and quenelles alternately to form a crown, and have ready prepared the following sauce: break up all the bones of the fowls and put into a stewpan with a glass of Madeira wine, an onion in slices, one bay-leaf, two cloves, a little carrot and celery, place it over the fire two minutes, then cover the bones with two quarts of white stock, and let them simmer gently one hour, skim well and pass it through a cloth into another stewpan, add six spoonfuls of good brown sauce (No. 1) and reduce it to a clear demi-glace, then add ten heads of white mushrooms and ten pieces of boiled Russian tongue cut the size of half-crown-pieces, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and serve; if you cannot obtain the Russian tongue for any of the above purposes, the English pickled tongue may be used instead.

No. 808. Filets de Volaille sauté au Suprême.

Fillet three fowls as before, making nine fillets from the three, sauté the same, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce suprême (No. 57) and serve; should you require a larger entrée use four fowls instead of three.

No. 809. Filets de Volatile aux truffes.

Fillet three fowls as before, sauté the same, then have a pint of the sauce suprême (No. 57) in a stewpan, boil the sauce, and when boiling throw in four preserved truffles in slices, add a tablespoonful of thick cream, sauce over and serve.

No. 810. Filets de Volaille aux truffes à la Béchamel.

Proceed with the fillets as before, put fifteen spoonfuls of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add four truffles in slices, with a little salt and sugar, when again boiling add two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream, sauce over and serve.

No. 811. Filets de Volaille aux champignons.

Prepare the fillets of three fowls as before, sauté and dress them as usual; wash and turn half a pottle of mushrooms, pass the heads in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, lemon-juice, and two tablespoonfuls of water, boil three minutes, then in another stewpan have a pint of the sauce suprême (No. 57), add the mushrooms with their stock, skim well, boil altogether ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream and a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 812. Filets de Volaille aux champignons à la Béchamel.

Proceed as before with the fillets, and likewise prepare half a pottle of white mushrooms as in the last, but saving the trimmings, which put in another stewpan with half the liquor from the mushrooms and a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 7), reduce till rather thick, then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a little sugar and your mushrooms, previously drained on a cloth, boil altogether two minutes, add half a gill of boiling milk, sauce over and serve.

No. 813. Filets de Poulet à l’Ambassadrice.

Roast three fowls in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut out the fillets and proceed exactly as for filets de poulardes à l’ambassadrice (No. 792).

No. 814. Filets de Poulet à la Strasbourgienne.

Roast two large fowls in vegetables, and when cold take out the fillets, and with a thin knife divide each fillet in halves, to form two out of one, then pound two ounces of foie gras de Strasbourg (a small tureen of which can be purchased at any respectable Italian warehouse in London) in a mortar, and rub it through a hair sieve, put a spoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with half a pat of butter, stir them a few minutes over the fire, then add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce till rather thick, add the foie gras, and when ready to boil take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, leave it to get cold, then spread it over the fillets the eighth of an inch in thickness, have three eggs in a basin well-beaten, take each fillet on a fork, dip them into the eggs, throw them in a dish of bread-crumbs, take them out, pat them gently with a knife and repeat the operation, have four pounds of hot lard in a stewpan, in which fry them a light brown colour, dress in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, and serve with fried water-cresses in the centre quite dry, with a little gravy separate.

No. 815. Filets de Volaille à la Duchesse.

Fillet three fowls, with the filets mignons making nine fillets, lard four of the fillets neatly and braise them as you would a sweetbread, then sauté the remainder of the fillets as usual; dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes, two larded, and the other plain, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of white stock, a small bunch of parsley, and the trimmings of some fresh mushrooms, boil till it becomes thick, keeping it stirred, add half a pint of cream and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan in which you have placed a dozen of dressed cockscombs (No. 128), boil it up, then sauce over the plain fillets, put the cockscombs in the centre, glaze the larded fillets lightly and serve. If too thick, add a little stock to the sauce.

No. 816. Epigramme de Filets de Volaille à la Josephine.

Prepare and cook the fillets of three fowls as above, cut also four pieces from a cooked tongue the size and shape of your fillets, warm them in stock, make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the larded fillets first, then the plain, then the tongue to form a crown, sauce with a thin purée of green peas (No. 86) in the centre, glaze the tongue and larded fillets, and serve.

No. 817. Filets de Volaille aux concombres.

Fillet three fowls as usual, place them in a sauté-pan with butter, season and put by until ready; have two fine cucumbers cut in pieces three inches in length, split each piece in halves, take out the seeds and peel so as not to leave a mark of green upon it, trim each piece as near the size and shape of the fillets as possible, blanch them three minutes in boiling water with salt, drain them on a sieve, put them in a sauté-pan with a little sugar and some good white stock, set them on the fire till the cucumber is tender and the stock has reduced to demi-glace, then sauté your fillets, and dress upon a small border of mashed potatoes alternately with a piece of the cucumber, add the remainder of the cucumber and the demi-glace to a demi-purée of cucumbers (No. 105) (but keep it quite white), with which sauce over and serve. The cucumbers must be the best for this purpose and fresh, or you will not be able to succeed.

No. 818. Fricassée de Poulet à la Chevalière.

Fillet two fowls but leave the pinions of the wings attached to them, lard and braise as directed for filets de poulardes à la Marie Stuart (No. 793), cut off the legs nicely, and take out the thigh-bone, leaving the leg-bone, but cutting it off above the knuckle; cut each back also into two pieces and trim neatly, put the legs and pieces of back into a stewpan, just cover them with one pint of water and two of stock, add a little pepper, salt, and a small bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, with an onion in slices, and two cloves, set them over the fire, let simmer twenty minutes, and skim well; then take out the pieces and put them on a cloth to dry, trim neatly and place them into another stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, pass them five minutes over the fire, then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well; you have previously passed the stock you boiled the fowl in through a cloth, pour it over the fricassée, which keep stirred till boiling, then stand it at the corner to simmer, skim well, it requires to be rather thin, let simmer nearly an hour, then take out the pieces very carefully and place them in another stewpan, put a spoonful of chopped mushrooms in the sauce, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the pieces of fowl, place it again on the fire, add twelve cockscombs, twelve mushrooms, and twelve slices of truffles, let simmer a minute, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with three tablespoonfuls of milk, take it off the fire immediately, put a little mashed potatoes in the bottom of your dish, take out the four pieces of back, place two in the centre of the dish and two others over to form a square, stand the four legs upright around, drain the four fillets on a cloth, (let them be a nice colour,) and dress them over; place the garniture from the sauce on the top to form a pyramid, sauce over the legs and round, glaze the fillets lightly and serve.

No. 819. Fricassée de Poulet à l’Ancienne.

Cut two fowls into eight pieces each, that is, two legs, two wings, with a piece of the fillet, two pieces of back, and two pieces of breast, put them into a stewpan with two quarts of warm water, let them remain ten minutes to disgorge, pour off all the water, then just cover them with cold water, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and one of salt, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, with an onion in slices, and two cloves, simmer gently twenty minutes, skim well, take out the pieces, lay them on a cloth, and trim them into neat pieces, then place them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pass over the fire five minutes keeping them moved; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, pass the stock the pieces were boiled in through a cloth over, stir all together, then have peeled forty button onions, throw them in and boil altogether nearly an hour very gently (keeping it skimmed), till the sauce is sufficiently thick, then finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of milk, stir it in quick and do not let it boil afterwards, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish, dress the pieces in pyramid, commencing with the backs, and finishing with the breasts upon the top, sauce all over and serve.

No. 820. Petits Poulets Printaniers sauté aux truffes.

Procure two spring chickens, cut each one in halves, then again divide the wings from the legs, thus making eight pieces of the two; cut off the legs just above the knuckle, break the back-bones with a knife, put half a pound of butter in a flat stewpan, let it melt, lay in the pieces of chicken, let them remain over a slow fire until they become rather brown, then turn them, let them remain until the other side is browned, then pour off as much of the butter as possible, and add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) with ten spoonfuls of consommé, place it again over the fire, and when boiling throw in four large truffles cut in thin slices and a little sugar, keep moving them round gently till the sauce adheres to the pieces; then take them out, dress as elevated as possible, sauce over and serve. Poulet printanier sauté aux champignons, and ditto aux olives, are done precisely the same, only substituting twenty stoned olives, or thirty heads of mushrooms, for the truffles.

No. 821. Poulet Printanier braisé à la Financière.

Roast a spring chicken very white in vegetables, as directed in the Removes, when done draw out the string, place it in the centre of an entrée-dish, and serve with a sauce financière (No. 50) over, they may also be served with a sauce à la béchamel (No. 7) or any of the sauces directed for the flancs.

No. 822. Petits Poulets Printaniers sauce remoulade (chaude).

Take out the back-bone of a good-sized chicken, cut the legs off at the knuckles, break the leg-bone, then make an incision in the thigh and draw the legs through to the inside; break the joints of the wings, and beat the chicken rather flat, then put a piece of butter in a sauté-pan, when melted lay in your chicken, pass it over a slow fire ten minutes, turn it and place it again over till it becomes slightly coloured, then lay it on a dish, season well with pepper and salt; egg all over, throw it into bread-crumbs, cover all over, place it on a gridiron over a slow fire and broil it a nice yellow colour; have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with four of white stock, place it over the fire, and when boiling add six spoonfuls of well-seasoned sauce remoulade (No. 38), stir it quickly over the fire until hot, but do not let it boil, pour it in your dish, garnish the edge with fillets of gherkins, lay the chicken over, which glaze lightly and serve.

No. 823. Poulet Printanier grillé aux champignons confit.

Prepare and broil a chicken exactly as in the last, put the juice from a small bottle of pickled mushrooms, not too salt, in a stewpan with a spoonful of chopped eschalots; reduce to half, then add twelve spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), season with a little cayenne pepper and sugar, boil till rather thick, add the mushrooms from the bottle, when hot pour the sauce in the dish, dress the fowl over, which glaze and serve. Spring chickens broiled may also be served with sauce piquante (No. 27), poivrade (No. 33), tomate (No. 37), fresh mushrooms (No. 52), or à la maréchal (No. 532).

After having used the fillets of fowls or chickens, the legs may be dressed in any of the methods given for legs of poulardes or capons, of course their not being so large, they will not require so long to cook, but there being six instead of four legs, they will require the same quantity of sauce; they may also be served in any of the following ways.

No. 824. Cuisses de Volaille truffés à la Périgord.

Cut off the six legs with as much of the skin as possible attached, giving them a round shape, take out the thigh-bone, and cut off the leg above the knuckle, then stuff the round part with a preparation of truffles, as for poularde à la Marie Stuart (No. 528), showing the truffles under the skin, sew them up, and braise as directed for that article; when done put a thin oval border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress the legs upon it, three on each side; place a small paper frill upon each bone, and serve with a purée of truffles (No. 53) in the centre and round; the purée must be rather thin.

No. 825. Cuisses de Volaille à la Dino.

Prepare, stuff, and braise six legs as in the last, also have a fine larded sweetbread (No. 671) which braise with the legs, glaze and salamander of a nice gold colour, then have poached an oval piece of forcemeat (No. 120), an inch and a half high, three inches long, and two inches broad, place the sweetbread on the top, and dress the legs round, three upon each side, place a fine cockscomb between each leg to hide the forcemeat, fix them there by running little pegs made of stiff paste through them, sauce over the legs with a sauce à l’Italienne (No. 31), glaze the sweetbread, and serve very hot.

No. 826. Cuisses de Volaille braisé aux concombres.

Prepare and bone six legs as above, season them with a little pepper, salt, and very finely-chopped eschalots, then have ready half a pound of forcemeat of fowl, with which stuff them, sew them round and braise as before; when done dress them on your dish as described for cuisses de volaille truffés à la Périgord (No. 824), sauce in the middle and round with a garniture and sauce aux concombres (No. 103), and serve.

No. 827. Cuisses de Volaille braisé aux pois.

Prepare, bone, stuff, and braise as the last, dress the same, and serve with stewed peas round and in the centre. For stewed peas (see No. 1077.)

The legs braised as above may also be served with a sauce Palestine (No. 87) or à la jardiniere (No. 100.)

No. 828. Cuisses de Volaille en fricassée à l’Ancienne

See (No. 819) and proceed exactly the same; dress them on the dish, and serve as above.

No. 829. Cuisses de Volaille à la Marengo.

Cut off the legs neatly as before, taking out the thigh-bone, and proceed as directed for petits poussins à la Marengo (see Flancs, No. 596), dress them pyramidically, sauce over, and serve. The whole of a fowl may be dressed in this manner by cutting it up as directed for poulet printanier (No. 820), and proceeding as described where above directed.

No. 830. Poulet à la Provençale.

Cut up a large fowl or a small poularde into eight pieces, that is, the two legs, the two wings, with a piece of the fillet attached, two pieces of breast and two pieces of back, put them into a sauté-pan with eight spoonfuls of oil and six onions, peeled and cut in thin slices, season with a little pepper and salt, place it over a slow fire, move and turn them occasionally; when done, lay them on a cloth, to drain off all the oil, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, dress the inferior pieces at the bottom, and the better one at the top, dressing them as tastefully as possible, put the stewpan again on the fire, pour off as much oil as possible, and mix a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour with the onions, then twelve spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and eight of white stock, add a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, and a little more sugar, take it off the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs, sauce over, egg and bread-crumb all over, set it in a very hot oven ten minutes, salamander, and serve.

No. 831. Turban de Quenelles de Volaille à la Russe.

Take the flesh of a nice delicate large fowl, and with it make some forcemeat as directed (No. 122); when done make eight large quenelles with two silver tablespoons, by filling one of them with forcemeat, dip your knife in hot water, and smooth it over in a slight dome, then dip the other spoon in hot water, and scoop the quenelle from the first spoon with it, taking it into the hot spoon, from which it will easily slip, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, and cover with good second broth, place them over a quick fire, boil twenty minutes, and lay them out on a cloth; cut also eight pieces from a boiled Russian tongue, the size of the quenelles and the thickness of two five-shilling pieces which warm in a little consommé; make a border of mashed potatoes, cut a little piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and dress them alternately with a piece of the tongue in crown; break the bones of the fowl up very small, and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry, one minced onion, one bay-leaf, a little thyme, and one clove; boil it two minutes, then add a quart of white stock, reduce it to half, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; finish with two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream, and a little sugar, sauce over the quenelles, glaze the tongue, and serve with the remainder of the sauce round and in the centre.

No. 832. Quenelles de Volaille à l’Ecarlate.

Proceed precisely as above, using plain ox-tongue instead of the Russian.

No. 833. Quenelles de Volaille aux concombres.

Make eight quenelles as before, then procure a fine hothouse cucumber, from which cut and trim eight pieces the size of your quenelles, put them in a stewpan with a pat of butter and a little sugar, pass them over a slow fire ten minutes, then add six spoonfuls of white broth, and let them simmer very gently till quite done, but not too much so, or it would be impossible to dress them; then poach the quenelles and lay them on a cloth to drain with the cucumber, have ready a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, cut a little piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and dress them alternately with the cucumber in crown; have ready the following sauce: add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) to the stock the cucumber was dressed in, reduce it till it adheres to the spoon, add a tablespoonful of cream, sauce over, and serve.

No. 834. Quenelles de Volaille en demi deuil.

Make twelve quenelles as before, poach them and lay them on a cloth, have ready chopped two or three very black truffles, dip six of the quenelles in some egg well-beaten, roll them in the chopped truffles, place them in a dish, cover them up and stand them in the hot closet an hour; place the other six in some fresh stock in a stewpan and keep hot in the bain-marie, have ready a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, cut a piece off the bottom of each of the quenelles, dress the six black ones on one side and the white ones on the other to form a crown, put ten spoonfuls of milk in a stewpan, boil it, and add a pint of white sauce (No 7); reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two pats of butter and the juice of a lemon, sauce over the white quenelles; you will probably have a few chopped truffles left, which sprinkle over, and serve the remainder of the sauce in the centre.

No. 835. Quenelles de Volaille à la York Minster.

Make and poach twelve quenelles as before, dip them in egg, and then roll them in some finely chopped cooked lean York ham, place them on a dish, cover and put them in the hot closet to dry; make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress one red and one white quenelle alternately, put twelve good spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with ten of boiled milk and a little sugar, let reduce till it adheres to the spoon, add about forty strips of the cooked ham cut the size of julienne-roots, sauce over and serve; finish the sauce with a little cream.

No. 836. Quenelles de Volaille à la Pair de France.

Make eight quenelles as before, and when laying in the sauté-pan make a long incision in each, in which put a very white middle-sized dressed cockscomb, cover them with white stock, and poach very gently for a quarter of an hour; have also poached a solid piece of forcemeat four inches in diameter and two and a half in height, with a long round cutter cut four holes near the centre, large enough to stand in four plovers’ eggs, which peel and warm in a little stock, and between the four on the top place a fifth; cut a small piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and stand them upright upon a little mashed potatoes against the centre piece, the cockscombs facing outwards, sauce over with a very white thin purée of artichokes (No. 90), and serve with a little chopped chervil sprinkled over them.

No. 837. Quenelles de Volaille à la Silêne.

Pass a tablespoonful of chopped onions in butter in a stewpan over a sharp fire, and when they begin to colour add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well in, then add half a pint of brown sauce, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, two teaspoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and one of chopped parsley, reduce five minutes, take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly; you have previously poached ten quenelles as before, and when cold dip them into the above sauce, covering them all over, (previously cutting a small piece off the bottom,) then dip them into some egg well-beaten, and then into bread-crumbs, pat them a little with your knife and repeat the operation; fry them a nice colour in a stewpan containing four pounds of very hot lard, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of consommé free from salt in a stewpan, with some bones of a raw or cooked fowl and a bunch of parsley, boil it till reduced to half, squeeze in the juice of twelve grapes, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, reduce to a thin glaze, add half a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a little sugar, pour it in the centre of your dish and serve very hot.

No. 838. Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu.

Make sufficient of the above forcemeat, for twelve quenelles, lay a little flour on your dresser, upon which place twelve pieces of the forcemeat, each of the size of a quenelle, roll each a little with the hand, then with a knife form them into pieces two inches long and nearly an inch wide, place them in a buttered sauté-pan as you do them, and poach exactly as for the quenelles, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) and serve.

No. 839. Boudins de Volaille à la Sully.

Make the same quantity of forcemeat as for the last, lay it on your dresser and divide it into five pieces, flatten them with your knife, having sufficient flour on the board to prevent them sticking; have a salpicon as for croquettes (see next), place a little of it upon the centre of each piece of forcemeat, roll them up, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, cover with stock and poach them twenty minutes, drain on a cloth, cut off the ends, and lay them on your dish, three at the bottom and two across, sauce the same as the last and serve.

No. 840. Croquettes de Volaille aux truffes.

Cut up a small braised fowl (or the remains of two or three left from a previous dinner) into very small dice (or mince), cut also two large truffles of the same size, put half a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them three minutes over the fire, add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, then put in the fowl and truffles and half a pint of white sauce (No. 7)—or more if not sufficiently moist, boil all together ten minutes, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, then stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire, turn it out on a dish to cool; when cold take twelve pieces, each the size of a very large walnut, roll them about an inch and a half in length, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry a good colour in hot lard, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce aux truffes (No. 51) in the centre. The remainder of a previous dinner of any kind of poultry may be used for croquettes.

No. 841. Croquettes de Volaille au Jambon

Are made in the same manner as in the last, only using cooked lean ham instead of truffles, and serving a little blanquette de volaille au jambon (see blanquette de dinde, No. 88) in the centre; croquettes de volaille à l’écarlate are made the same, merely substituting some cooked tongue and adding tongue to the blanquette; when made larger they are called boudins, but the croquettes are preferable, being more crisp.

No. 842. Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour.

Make half a pound of forcemeat (No. 122), then have ready two buttered sauté-pans, place half of the forcemeat in the centre of each, then spread it over the bottom to the thickness of half-a-crown piece with a spoon, occasionally dipping the spoon in white of egg; then cover them over with stock and place them on a moderate fire, let them simmer for five minutes, take off as much of the stock as possible, and leave them in the sauté-pans to get half cold, take them out with a fish-slice, place one of them on a dish, then have prepared a salpicon as for the croquettes aux truffes (No. 840), cover the sheet of forcemeat with it a quarter of an inch in thickness, then cover the other sheet over it, press them lightly together; when cold cut it out in diamond shapes (with a knife) about two inches long and one wide; then have ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a quarter of a pat of butter, pass them over the fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a gill of milk, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred; then take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it over the fire another half a minute, then take each piece upon a fork and dip it into the sauce, cover it all over and place it upon a plate; proceed in like manner till they are all done, put them by till quite cold, have ready some good fritter-batter (No. 1285) made with milk, dip each rissolette in with a fork and drop it into a stewpan of rather hot lard, fry five minutes, dress them on a napkin, and serve with plenty of fried parsley the moment they are done.

They may also be served with sauce (omitting the napkin) as follows: put eight spoonfuls of white sauce into a stewpan, with six of cream, place it over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar and salt, sauce round and serve.

No. 843. Filets de Canetons aux petits pois.

Roast four ducklings in vegetables as directed in the Removes, take away the vegetables just before they are done, to give the breasts a slight colour; then cut out the fillets very neatly, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes with a thin crouton of fried bread between each, put a pint and a half of young green peas (previously boiled) in a stewpan, with the gravy that has run from the ducklings, two ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, keep tossing them over the fire till quite hot, then add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir it in quickly, place them in the centre of the dish in pyramid and serve.

No. 844. Filets de Canetons à la chicorée.

Proceed with the ducklings precisely as above, fillet and dress the same, serve with some endive prepared as directed (No. 119) in the centre, but not too much nor too thick.

No. 845. Filets de Canetons à la macédoine de lêgumes.

Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, then prepare a stand of vegetables as directed for Chartreuse (No. 604), but not more than two inches in height, fill it with stewed cabbage well pressed and almost dry, and turn it out on your dish; when perfectly hot and the vegetables sufficiently cooked, dress the fillets in crown on the top, have ready a Macédoine de legume (No. 98), which dress in pyramid in the centre and serve.

No. 846. Filets de Canetons au jus d’orange.

Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put twenty spoonfuls of brown sauce in a stewpan with ten of white stock, place it over the fire to boil, with some bones from the breast of the ducklings, boil to a demi-glace, keeping it skimmed, take out the bones and pass the sauce through a tammie, then add the rind of an orange free from pith, which you have previously cut in fillets and blanched five minutes in boiling water, boil the sauce a few minutes, keeping it stirred, and finish with the juice of half the orange, sauce over and serve. This sauce requires to be quite transparent, but to have consistence enough to adhere to the fillets; filets de canetons à la bigarade are the same as above, merely substituting a Seville or real bigarade for a sweet orange.

No. 847. Filets de Canetons farcis.

Bone a duckling by placing it on your board and opening it at the back-bone, which is first to be taken out, then lay it out flat: take out the other bones singly, and cover the interior with forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), filling up every cavity and making it perfectly level on the top, put some thin slices of bacon at the bottom of a deep sauté-pan with a bunch of parsley and a few onions in slices, lay the duckling over and cover with white stock, lay a sheet of buttered paper over and put it in a slow oven for one hour or more till tender, take it up, lay it on a dish free from the bacon or onions, place another dish over and press it till cold, then cut it into pieces the size and shape of the other fillets above, warm them in a sauté-pan in a little good stock, dress them in crown and serve in any of the preceding ways.

ENTRÉES OF GAME.

No. 848. Filets de Lièvre sauce reforme.

Procure three good-sized but young hares, when skinned lay them on a table and pass a knife down the back-bone, from the shoulder to the leg, keeping it close to the ribs till you have extracted the fillet, when done lay the fillets on a board the skin side downwards, and with a thin knife cut off the whole of the skin, by pressing your hand upon the fillet and drawing the knife along from the thin end to the thick; cut each fillet in halves, beat them lightly, trim them of a nice shape, and lard them neatly, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the fillets over, add three onions in slices with a bunch of parsley, a blade of mace, and a couple of cloves, put in a little broth, but not to cover them, place the lid on the stewpan and place them in a moderate oven till tender, glaze and salamander a nice colour, take them out, drain them a minute on a cloth, trim nicely, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce reforme (No. 35) over, previously placing a thin piece of toasted bread the same size as the fillets between each.

No. 849. Filets de Lièvre piqué sauce poivrade.

Proceed exactly as in the last, dress them in crown without the pieces of toast, and serve with a sauce poivrade (No. 32) over, dressed in the same manner, they may be served with a sauce tomate (No. 37).

No. 850. Filets de Lièvre piqué à la Bourguignote.

Proceed and dress your fillets exactly as before, and have ready the following sauce: peel forty button onions, then put a little pounded sugar in a stewpan, which place over the fire, when it melts and turns yellowish put in a pat of butter and your onions, keep moving them over a slow fire till they become rather brown, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six tablespoonfuls of consommé, place it at the corner of the stove, and skim well, let simmer till the onions are done; then take them out with a colander spoon and place them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the onions, have twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon in diamonds the size of the onions, put them in the sauce, which make hot, but not to boil, sauce over and serve.

No. 851. Filets de Lièvre piqué, mariné en demi-glace.

Prepare and lard twelve pieces of fillets as usual, have ready a quart of marinade, see filet de bœuf à la Bohemienne (No. 426), and put them into it for three days; when wanted dry them on a cloth, butter a sauté-pan, lay in the fillets, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and stand them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, glaze and salamander a light brown, and dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, then pour as much of the butter off from the sauté-pan as possible, and put eight spoonfuls of the marinade and a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) into it, reduce over the fire, keeping it stirred till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a small piece of glaze and a teaspoonful of currant jelly; sauce over and serve.

No. 852. Escalopes de Lièvre à la Chasseur.

Fillet three hares as before and cut each fillet into four escalopes in a slanting direction; beat them into an oval shape, put an ounce of butter in a deep sauté-pan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots; when the butter is melted lay in the escalopes, season them with a little pepper and salt, and place them on a sharp fire; when half done turn them over, be careful not to do them too much; when done dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, pour off the butter, then put a glass of port wine in the sauté-pan, with fifteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), a little salt, and sugar, reduce it three minutes, keeping it stirred, sauce over and serve.

No. 853. Cotelettes de Lièvre à la Dauphine.

Fillet two hares as before, and out of each fillet cut three cotelettes by cutting each fillet in halves, making one of the thin end and cutting the thick into two equal slices, thus making twelve pieces of the four fillets; beat them of an equal thickness, boil the rib-bones of one of the hares till all the flesh comes off, and stick a bone in each piece to imitate the bone of a cotelette, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but not too much done, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and sauce over with a sauce piquante (No. 27) in which you have introduced a few chopped olives.

No. 854. Turban de Lièvre à la Péronne.

Fillet one large hare and make six cotelettes out of the two fillets as in the last, egg and bread-crumb them with a little chopped ham mixed with the bread-crumbs, and fry in oil as before; you have previously made forcemeat of the legs as described (No. 123), with which make six large quenelles, poach, and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes alternately with the cotelettes; have ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with two of tarragon vinegar and a piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, place over the fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce and eight spoonfuls of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add a little sugar and twenty small pickled onions; sauce over the quenelles, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

For boudins de lièvre, or quenelles, proceed the same as for boudins or quenelles de volaille, only using forcemeat made from the legs of the hare instead of the forcemeat of fowl; and for jugged hare and civet de lièvre, see Kitchen at Home. They may be made from the legs after you have taken the fillets for other purposes.

No. 855. Filets de Lapereau à la Valencienne.

For entrées the tame rabbits are the best, and most preferable; but the wild are very good and may be dressed in any of the following ways.

Take three or four young rabbits, skin and fillet them the same as the hares; if the fillets are sufficiently large cut each one in halves forming each piece in the shape of a small cotelette, beat them lightly and of equal thickness, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, season with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place them over a moderate fire and when half done turn them; they are done as soon as they feel firm to the touch, and must be kept quite white, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, put eighteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan, with ten of white stock, stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little pepper and salt if required, finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream and the juice of half a lemon; sauce over and serve.

No. 856. Filets de Lapereau à l’Ecarlate.

Fillet three rabbits and so cut the fillets as to have nine pieces, which cook as in the last, then cut nine slices of cooked ham of the same size and shape as the fillets, and make them hot in a little stock, dress them alternately with the fillets in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of white stock in the sauté-pan, stir over the fire until nearly thick enough, then add twenty heads of blanched mushrooms and a little sugar, boil another minute, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream; sauce over the fillets, glaze the tongue and serve.

No. 857. Turban de Lapereau à la Douarière.

Fillet three good-sized rabbits and cut each fillet in halves, making twelve pieces, six of which lard neatly; dress the six plain as before, but the six larded ones must be braised like sweetbreads, and glazed, and salamander a good colour, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets alternately, (one larded and one plain,) in crown, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in the sauté-pan, with half a pint of consommé, boil and skim, add half a glass of sherry, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37) and twenty small quenelles from forcemeat made with the legs of the rabbits, as described (No. 121); when hot, sauce over the plain fillets, glaze the larded ones, put all the quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 858. Epigramme de Filets de Lapereau.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only dressing the six plain fillets on one side and the larded ones on the other instead of alternately, and add twelve dressed cockscombs and twelve blanched mushrooms to the garniture in the sauce; or they may be served with a blanquette made from the legs of the rabbits, previously braised, proceeding as described for blanquette de dinde (No. 791).

No. 859. Filets de Lapereau à la Musulmane.

Lard twelve pieces of fillets from three or four rabbits, braise them as you would sweetbreads; when done glaze and salamander of a light colour, and dress in crown as high as possible; you have boiled half a pound of good rice (No. 129), season it with a little salt, and mix four pats of butter and a pinch of saffron with it, dress it in pyramid in the centre of your dish, serve with a thin currie sauce (No. 46) round the fillets, and some separate in a boat; serve very hot.

No. 860. Cotelettes de Lapereau aux petites racines.

Fillet three rabbits, cut each fillet in halves and shape them in the form of cotelettes, sticking a piece of the rib-bone of the rabbit in at the thin end, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil of a light brown colour, dress in crown, glaze them lightly, and sauce as directed for grenadins de veau (No. 692).

The legs and shoulders may be used for pies, curries, or fricassées, which I give in my Kitchen at Home.

No. 861. Lapereau sauté aux truffes.

Procure two nice young rabbits, which cut into twelve pieces, being two legs, two shoulders, and two nice pieces from the back of each; put four ounces of butter in a thick-bottomed sauté-pan; when melted lay in the pieces and proceed as directed for petits poulets sauté aux truffes (No. 820). Lapereau sauté aux champignons is done the same, using mushrooms instead of truffles, and lapereau sauté aux fines herbes, by using a sauce fines herbes (No. 26) instead of the brown sauce, and omitting both the truffles and mushrooms.

No. 862. Lapereau à la Marengo.

Cut up two rabbits precisely as above, and proceed as directed for poulet printanier à la Marengo (No. 829), dress them as high as possible on the dish, pyramidically, sauce over and serve.

No. 863. Rabbit Currie.

Cut up two rabbits as before, and cook them as for sauté aux truffes (No. 861); when done and nicely browned pour off as much butter as possible and pour a quart of currie sauce (No. 46) over, add twenty button onions, previously stewed in a little broth, and twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon cut in small diamonds, stand them over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping it stirred occasionally; then build the pieces up in your dish, sauce over and serve with rice (No. 129) in a separate dish; should the sauce be too thick moisten it with a drop of broth, but it requires to be thick enough to adhere to the rabbit.

No. 864. Fricassée de Lapereau.

Cut up two young rabbits as before, and put them two hours in warm water to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan just covered with clear water, add two onions, one carrot, a bunch of parsley, two cloves, and a little salt, boil half an hour at the corner of the stove, and skim well, take out the pieces and pass the stock through a cloth, trim each piece of rabbit nicely, and put it in another stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, then mix one ounce of flour with them, pour the stock over and add fifty peeled button onions, stir round gently until boiling, then draw it to the corner of the fire and let simmer till the rabbit is very tender, then take them out, with the onions, and put them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the rabbit and onions, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir it in gently, place it over the fire but do not let it boil, dress the rabbit in your dish and sauce over; mushrooms may be added, and the onions ought to be kept as whole as possible.

No. 865. Faisans au velouté de Gibier.

Roast two small young pheasants in vegetables as directed for the Removes, let them get cold, then cut off neatly the two wings, two legs, and two pieces from the breasts of each, which will make twelve very nice pieces, take off the skin and place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock and six spoonfuls of velouté (No. 6), put them in the bain marie to warm gently, then put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white stock and the backs and trimmings of the pheasants cut up very small, reduce till it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, pour off the stock from the pieces of pheasants, place a tammie over the stewpan, over which hold a colander, pour the sauce through the colander, and then squeeze it through the tammie, add a little sugar and a little cream, place the stewpan over the fire but do not let its contents boil, dress the pieces of pheasants in pyramid, placing a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish to keep them in their place; sauce over and serve.

No. 866. Faisans à la purée de Gibier.

Cut up two small pheasants as above, dress them in pyramid on your dish and serve with a sauce à la purée de gibier (No. 59) over, have about fifty very small croutons of bread, diamond shape, and fried in oil, which sprinkle over the last thing before serving.

No. 867. Filets de Faisans à la Comte de Brabant.

Fillet two full-grown young pheasants as you would a fowl, lard and braise them exactly the same, have half boiled in water sixty very fine Brussels sprouts, drain them in a colander and put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, season with a little pepper and salt, add a pint of good stock and stew them over a moderate fire till the stock is reduced to glaze, take out the sprouts, squeeze them together between two dishes, and dress them as a perfect pyramid in the centre of your dish, glaze and salamander the fillets nicely, and dress a fillet on each side with a thin slice of the bacon at each corner, place a quenelle at the top, and sauce round with the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60); serve immediately.

No. 868. Filets de Faisans piqué aux légumes.

Lard and braise six fillets from three pheasants as above, have a fine fresh cucumber, cut six pieces from it of the same size as the fillets, which stew in a little stock in which you have put half a teaspoonful of sugar; when tender but not too much done drain them on a cloth; make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and pieces of cucumber alternately in crown; have ready a small jardinière sauce (No. 100) to which you have added a few blanched mushrooms, put the vegetables in the centre with a piece of boiled (or a small) cauliflower on the top, sauce round, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 869. Turban de Faisans en salmi.

Roast two pheasants in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut them into quarters, that is, the four breasts with the wings and the legs with a piece of the back-bone, beat and trim them lightly, cut off the pinion from the wings, and make the breasts and legs nearly of the same shape, place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock, put the lid on the stewpan and set in the bain marie to get hot, make a border of forcemeat (see ris de veau à la Turque No. 673); when done place it in the centre of your dish and dress the pieces in crown upon it, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60) in which you have put four large truffles in slices, or twenty button mushrooms; serve very hot.

No. 870. Filets de Faisans à la Marquise.

Fillet four young pheasants, lard and braise four of the fillets, (as for the filets aux légumes), egg the other four over with a paste-brush and throw them into a plate in which you have chopped ham and bread-crumbs mixed, cover them well, beat gently with a knife, and fry a light brown in a little clarified butter, make a small border of mashed potatoes upon your dish and dress the fillets alternately upon it; you have previously prepared a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), rather more than a pint, add twenty very white dressed cockscombs, when hot sauce round and garniture in the centre; glaze your fillets and serve; a spoonful of whipped cream would also be a great improvement added to the sauce when finished.

No. 871. Filets de Faisans à la Maintenon.

Prepare eight small or four large fillets divided into two separate slices, put them in a sauté-pan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, place them over a sharp fire, sauté them very underdone, and lay them on a cloth, put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry them till turning yellow, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, two of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, keeping it stirred, lay in the fillets to warm, and leave them to get cold in the sauce, have eight pieces of paper each cut in the shape of a heart, and large enough to fold a fillet in, place a fillet in each with the sauce equally divided amongst them, fold the papers over, twisting them up at the edges, and place them on the gridiron to broil over a slow fire; when done dress in crown on your dish leaving them in the papers, and serve with a little plain gravy.

After having used the fillets of pheasants one day the legs may be used the next, by roasting in vegetables and trimming them nicely; serve either à la Brabant (No. 867), or en salmi (No. 869); but the legs of large pheasants being so stringy will not make a very delicate entrée, and it is much better to convert them into a sauce à la purée de gibier (No. 59), soup, (No. 175), or forcemeat (No. 123).

No. 872. Turban de Quenelles de Faisans.

Proceed exactly as for the quenelles de volaille, only using a forcemeat made from the flesh of pheasants instead of fowl, dress them in crown, and serve with a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), purée de gibier (No. 59), or sauce fumée de gibier, either of which may be garnished with cockscombs, truffles, or mushrooms, as directed for the entrées of pheasants.

Boudins de faisans are served the same way only shaping them as directed for boudins de volaille à la Richelieu (No. 838), with which sauce they may also be served.

No. 873. Grouse à la Commodore.

Prepare two young but full-grown grouse, roast one of them underdone, and make forcemeat (No. 123) of the other; when the roasted one is cold cut it into eight pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, two pieces of the back, and two pieces of the breast; cover each piece all over with the forcemeat the sixth of an inch in thickness, egg each piece over and place them in a buttered sauté-pan, just cover them with a little white stock and boil gently ten minutes, lay them on a cloth to drain, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, build the pieces in pyramid, and have ready the following sauce: chop the bone of the grouse very small and put them into a stewpan, with three pints of consommé free from salt, an onion, and a little celery, with a bunch of parsley and two cloves, boil gently half an hour, pass the stock through a cloth into a stewpan, reduce to a very thin glaze, then mix a tablespoonful of the best arrow-root with half a glassful of wine and a little cold broth; pour it into the gravy, keeping it stirred, season a little more if required, and when boiling sauce over and serve.

No. 874. Filets de Grouse à la Paoli.

Roast four young grouse in vegetables as described for the Removes, take out the breasts or fillets carefully, have ready a pound of forcemeat (No. 123), with which cover each fillet nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness all over, put them in a buttered sauté-pan, just covered with a little white stock, boil gently ten minutes and lay them on a cloth; have ready eight croutons or pieces of bread, the shape of the fillets and the thickness of a crown-piece, fried in oil a light brown and very crisp, dress the fillets and croutons alternately in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, glaze the croutons, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), sprinkle a few chopped olives over, and serve very hot.

No. 875. Filets de Grouse à la Chancelière.

Fillet four young grouse, trim the fillets as directed for filet de poularde (No. 792), butter a sauté-pan with two ounces of butter, lay in your fillets, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, add a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place them on the fire, sauté underdone, pour off as much butter as possible, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) and twenty small quenelles (No. 120); shake the sauté-pan round over the fire two minutes, take out the fillets, which dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes; sauce over, put the fillets and quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 876. Salmi de Grouse aux truffes.

Plain roast two grouse and cut each one up into eight neat pieces (whilst hot, as for à la commodore), place them in a stewpan, cover them with a thin brown sauce (No. 1), put the cover on the stewpan and place it in the bain marie till the pieces are hot, in another stewpan have a pint and a half of the sauce fumée de gibier, reduce it a third, then add six middling-sized truffles cut in thin slices, and a little sugar; have also six croutons or scippets of fried bread (as for à la Paoli), dress the pieces of grouse in pyramid on your dish, with the croutons well glazed resting upon them round the dish; sauce over and serve.

No. 877. Grouse à la Ailsa.

Roast two grouse, cut them into quarters, that is, the wings with the breasts, and the legs with the back-bone, pound the back and trimmings well in a mortar and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), boil five minutes, then pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan, season with a little salt and sugar if required, and add the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire till it becomes thickish but do not let it boil, then put in the pieces of grouse; when half cold dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce and sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a moderate oven half an hour; serve with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) round.

No. 878. Turban de Quenelles de Grouse à la Moderne.

Make and poach twelve quenelles from a forcemeat of grouse (see No. 123), poach them as for quenelles de volaille (No. 831), dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), have ready the yolk of a hard-boiled egg chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve.

Black cocks and gray hens being larger birds are generally used for roasting, but the gray hen if well kept may be dressed in any of the preceding ways; the ptarmigan also which makes its appearance in February, (a Swedish bird as well as Scotch,) may be used for the same purposes as grouse, the flavour is similar but not quite so good.

No. 879. Perdreaux à la Silène.

Procure three young partridges, pluck and draw them and cut each bird in halves, cut off each leg below the knuckle, break the part of the leg above the knuckle, make an incision in the thigh and turn the leg inside, break the back-bone (in three) the thigh-bone and the joint of the wing in each, place the six halves in a sauté-pan, in which you have put eight tablespoonfuls of oil, fry gently till three parts done, then egg, bread-crumb, and place them on a gridiron over a slow fire, broil them a good colour, and dress in crown upon your dish, then pour off the oil from the sauté-pan, add two glasses of port wine, a spoonful of chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, pass them over the fire two minutes, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1,) ten spoonfuls of consommé, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, finish with the juice of half a lemon, sauce round and serve, slightly glazing the partridges.

No. 880. Perdreaux grillés à la purée de Gibier.

Prepare and broil three partridges as in the last; you have previously roasted an old one and made a purée of it as directed (No. 59), dress the partridges in crown, glaze and serve with the purée round and in the centre.

No. 881. Perdreaux aux choux.

Procure two partridges trussed as for boiling, and lard them with fat bacon lengthwise up the breast; have ready two white-heart savoy cabbages, cut them in quarters and blanch them ten minutes in boiling water; drain them quite dry on a cloth, season well with white pepper and salt, cut off all the stalk and place them in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon; cover with a good white stock and place them over a slow fire to stew until the stock has reduced to a thin glaze and the cabbage is quite tender; you have roasted the two partridges, thrust them quite hot into the cabbage, and place the stewpan containing them in a bain marie to keep hot for one hour, or till ready for use, then drain and press the cabbage in a colander, saving the stock that comes from it; dress in a dome on your dish, take the skewers and strings from the birds and dress them upon the top with slices of the bacon round, broil three sausages, which cut in halves lengthwise and lay round at the bottom, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with twelve spoonfuls of stock from the cabbage, skim off all the fat, reduce to a demi-glace, sauce over and serve.

No. 882. Chartreuses de Perdreaux.

Proceed as directed in the Flancs (Nos. 604, 605, and 606), but using a round mould not too large for the dish instead of oval moulds as there directed.

No. 883. Filets de Perdreaux aux petits légumes.

Roast six young partridges underdone and when nearly cold cut out the breasts or fillets as neatly as possible, place them in a sauté-pan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut and a little white stock, warm them and reduce the stock to glaze, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared some carrots, turnips, and button onions as for sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), pass them over the fire in a little butter and sugar, cover them with a pint of the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), six spoonfuls of consommé, and the glaze from the sauté-pan; simmer at the corner of the stove till the vegetables are quite done, skim it well, dress the vegetables in the centre, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 884. Filets de Perdreaux à la Florentine.

Roast six partridges and fillet them as in the last, warm and dress them precisely the same, then have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, then add twelve blanched mushrooms, twelve dressed cockscombs, and twelve very small French preserved truffles; add a little sugar, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and serve.

No. 885. Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Bacchante.

Procure six young partridges, fillet them, take a rib-bone and stick in the small end of each fillet, beat them lightly with a thin knife, take off the skin, season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb, and fry of a light brown colour in salad oil, but not too much done, dress them in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, have ready a pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), which you have made from the legs and bones of the birds, which put in a stewpan, with a pint of white stock (No. 138), reduce, and when it adheres to the back of the spoon add fifty Smyrna raisins previously soaked in hot water two hours, and the juice of ten large Portugal grapes, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve. I have served this curious entrée with English grapes whole in it, and very good it is, being refreshing to the palate, but a person requires to be used to them before they can appreciate.

No. 886. Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Douarière.

Prepare twelve cotelettes as above, fry them in oil and dress them the same on your dish; have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it one third, have forty small quenelles made from forcemeat from the legs, (see No. 123), the quenelles must be made with very small egg-spoons, as directed for the quenelles (No. 120); when poached lay them on a cloth to drain, put them into the sauce; when hot dress the quenelles in the centre; sauce over and serve.

No. 887. Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Duc de Chartres.

Prepare and dress twelve cotelettes or fillets as before, dress them on a dish and have ready the following sauce: have fifty scoops of turnips the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes, keeping them moved, then add a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), place it on the corner of the stove, let simmer, keeping it skimmed till the turnips are done, finish with a little orange-juice, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

No. 888. Epigramme de Perdreaux à l’essence de Gibier.

Fillet six young partridges, lard six of the fillets, and braise them as for filets de faisans à la Brabant (No. 867), place the other six in a sauté-pan well buttered, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, sauté them gently over a moderate fire, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the six larded fillets first, then the six plain ones to form a crown; glaze nicely, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier and serve (see Sauce, No. 61).

No. 889. Epigramme de Perdreaux aux champignons.

Proceed exactly as in the last, merely adding thirty heads of blanched mushrooms to the sauce and a little sugar.

No. 890. Turban des Filets de Perdreaux à la Périgord.

Fillet three young partridges, make likewise half a pound of forcemeat from the legs as directed (No. 123), from which make six quenelles with two tablespoons (No. 831); sauté your fillets as in the last, plain, then poach your quenelles, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress the fillets in crown, alternately with the quenelles, put three parts of a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, add four large French truffles chopped very fine, with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 891. Turban de Quenelles de Perdreaux à la Berri.

Make a pound of forcemeat from the flesh of one or two partridges as directed (No. 123), and with two tablespoons make twelve large quenelles, poach them in white stock (see quenelles de volaille, No. 831) and lay them on a clean cloth to drain a moment, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the quenelles in crown, then put a pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58) in a stewpan, with half the quantity of white stock, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sauce over, sprinkle a few pistachios chopped very fine upon the top of each quenelle and serve.

No. 892. Filets de Canetons Sauvage à l’essence.

Wild ducks are best after frosty weather, the middling-sized ones are the best for entrées.

Roast four young ones underdone well wrapped up in vegetables, when done cut the fillets out neatly, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared the following sauce: put a spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a glass of port wine, the back-bones of two of the ducks and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and ten spoonfuls of consommé, simmer a few minutes, take out the bones, skim, reduce it fast till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a little cayenne pepper and lemon-juice, when hot sauce over and serve.

No. 893. Filets de Canetons Sauvage à la Syrienne.

Prepare six fillets from three wild ducks as in the last, have six croutons of fried bread (or scippets), chop the livers of the ducks up very fine, mix with a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a small pat of butter, spread some upon each of the croutons, thicker in the middle than at the sides; set them ten minutes in a warm oven and salamander, dress them alternately with the fillets upon a border of mashed potatoes in crown, sauce the same as in the last, with the addition of twenty mild stoned olives just before serving.

No. 894. Filets de Canetons Sauvage au jus d’orange.

Cook and fillet four wild ducks as in the last, dress upon your dish and put them into the hot closet to keep hot with a cover over them; chop up the legs and back very fine and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry and a bunch of parsley, boil five minutes, then add a pint of consommée, boil ten minutes, skim and pass through a cloth into another stewpan, reduce to half glaze, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), a little sugar, and half the yellow rind of a large orange, cut in fine strips and blanch five minutes, boil altogether a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of juice from the orange, sauce over and serve.

No. 895. Filets de Canetons Sauvage au fumée de Gibier.

Cook and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown on your dish and serve with a sauce fumée de gibier over, made from the legs and bones of the ducks as described (No. 60).

No. 896. Salmi de Canetons Sauvage aux truffes.

Proceed exactly as for salmi de grouse (No. 876), only cutting up two wild ducks in neat pieces instead of the grouse, but the wild ducks require to be more underdone.

No. 897. Filets de Canetons Sauvage à la purée de Grouse.

Roast and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown, and serve with a sauce à la purée de grouse (No. 59) over.

Widgeons are rather smaller than the wild ducks, but are dressed exactly the same; care should be taken in roasting any kind of water-fowl that it should be rather underdone, and if there is a necessity for warming them in sauce when cut up for entrées, care should be taken that they do not boil in it, for it would give the sauce a greasy appearance, and cause the fillets to eat tough and altogether very unpalatable.

No. 898. Turban de Filets de Sarcelles à la Moderne.

Teal are much smaller than either of the two last, but of the same species, though more delicate and excellent for entrées.

Roast eight teal twenty minutes in vegetables, cut out the fillets, which must be underdone with the gravy in them, have ready half a pound of game forcemeat (No 123), when cold cover each of the fillets very thinly with it, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, set them in a very hot oven for ten minutes till the forcemeat is cooked, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60) and serve.

No. 899. Turban de Sarcelles à la Toulouse.

Roast and fillet eight teal as in the last, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, then put eight spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60), eight of consommé, and eight of tomata sauce (No. 37) in a stewpan, boil them together a few minutes, add twenty pickled mushrooms, sauce over and serve.

No. 900. Sarcelles au jus d’orange.

Roast six teal as before, cut them in halves, chop off the pinions of the wings, beat them a little and dress in crown, sauce over with au jus d’orange (No. 17) and serve.

Teal may be dressed in any way as directed for the wild ducks.

No. 901. Sarcelles à la Batelière.

Bone four teal by cutting the skin through down the back, separating the skin on each side of it until you have cleared it, lay the bird open, take out the back-bone, and with a knife you will find no difficulty in taking out all the rest; half fill them with forcemeat (No. 120) and sew them up with packthread, then put them into a stewpan with three glasses of sherry, a pint of white stock, half a pound of lean uncooked ham, two onions, one head of celery, a bunch of parsley, a little carrot, turnip, two cloves, and a blade of mace; put the cover on the stewpan and place it in a moderate oven for an hour, try with a larding-needle, and if tender they are done; lay them on a cloth to drain, make three croutons of bread each in the shape of a cockscomb, but a great deal thicker and larger, put three of the teal at the bottom of the dish, and stand a crouton (nicely fried) between each to form six points, place the remaining teal upon the top, and have ready the following sauce: strain the stock the teal was cooked in through a cloth into another stewpan, skim off all the fat, add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little cream sauce over and serve.

No. 902. Sarcelles à la macédoine de légumes.

Roast four teal in vegetables, cut them in halves, dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a white sauce macédoine de légumes (No. 98) in the centre.

No. 903. Sarcelles à la purée de champignons.

Proceed as in the last, but serve with a purée of mushrooms (No. 54) in the centre.

No. 904. Filets de Bécasses à la Lucullus.

Roast six woodcocks underdone, take the fillets out carefully, have ready half a pound of very white forcemeat of chicken (No. 122), cover each fillet all over about the eighth of an inch in thickness, egg them over when done and place them in a buttered sauté-pan, cover them with white stock, and simmer ten minutes, drain them on a cloth and dress in crown upon a small border of toasted bread; you have previously pounded all the flesh from the legs with the trail in a mortar, pass through a sieve, and put it in a stewpan with ten spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60) made from the bones, boil until thick, keeping it stirred, then take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire to thicken, and dress in the middle of the dish as high as possible, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) and serve.

No. 905. Filets de Bécasses à la Talleyrand.

Roast four woodcocks, fillet them, cover each fillet with forcemeat as in the last, poach them the same, have eight croutons of bread the same size as the fillets, and the thickness of a five-shilling-piece, pound the trails from the woodcocks in a mortar, season them lightly, and mix them with the yolk of one egg, spread it upon the croutons (which you have previously fried), give them the shape of a dome, put them ten minutes in the oven, salamander a light colour, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets half way round, then the croutons, put a pint of game sauce (No. 60) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add six middling-sized truffles chopped very fine with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 906. Filets de Bécasses à l’Impérial.

Roast five woodcocks, fillet as usual, surround each fillet with the forcemeat, and poach as before, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes, and place a fine dressed cockscomb warmed in a little stock between each, sauce over with a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58) and serve.

No. 907. Turban de Bécasses aux champignons.

Roast five woodcocks, cut them in halves, and dress them in crown, breasts upwards, upon a border of mashed potatoes; put a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it, then add forty very fine blanched mushrooms, with two spoonfuls of thin liquor, boil two minutes, then add a little salt, sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and two pats of butter, take it off the fire, shake it round till the butter is melted, sauce over and serve.

No. 908. Salmi de Bécasses.

Roast three woodcocks underdone, and when cold cut them into neat pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, and the breasts; chop the trails from the interior very fine and spread them upon six croutons of fried bread in the shape of fillets, place them in the oven three minutes, and salamander lightly; make a game sauce with the bones as directed (No. 60), when you have reduced it to a good consistency, put in the pieces of woodcocks, cover the stewpan, stand it in the bain marie till they are quite hot, then build them up as high as possible on your dish, dress the croutons round, sauce over and serve; truffles or mushrooms may be added to the sauce.

No. 909. Salmi de Bécasses à la Joinville.

Roast two woodcocks underdone, cut them up and proceed exactly as in the last, make ten quenelles de gibier (No. 123), poach them, lay them on a cloth to drain, egg over with a paste-brush, and roll them in chopped ham and truffles, place them in a dish, which put in the hot closet with the cover over for half an hour, then put a border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, dress the quenelles in crown with the woodcocks in the centre and over, as elevated as possible, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier, dress the croutons round and serve.

No. 910. Entrée de Bécasses à la Comtesse.

Roast your woodcocks in vegetables, separate the breasts from the legs, take off the flesh from the legs and pound it in a mortar with the trails, make a purée as for the filets à la Lucullus, then have ready a croustade of bread two inches high, rather oval, and fluted round, not too large for the dish, make an incision round the top a quarter of an inch from the edge, fry a nice colour, scoop out the top, place it on your dish, pour in the purée; you have kept the breasts hot in a stewpan in the bain marie, dress them over the purée with the points to meet in the centre, place two fine dressed cockscombs warmed in the sauce between each breast, and a quenelle upon the top, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) and serve.

No. 911. Bécasses à la Périgord.

Roast three woodcocks nicely before a sharp fire, put a piece of toasted bread under them whilst roasting to catch the trails, when done cut the toast into three pieces, diamond shapes, place them in your dish and place the woodcocks upon them, their tails to meet in the centre of the dish, sauce over as for filets à la Talleyrand (No. 905) and serve.

No. 912. Bécasses à l’essence.

Roast three woodcocks as in the last, dish them the same, and serve with a sauce à l’essence made from some bones or remains of woodcock, as directed (No. 60).

No. 913. Bécasses à la Financière.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding ten blanched mushrooms, ten fine dressed cockscombs, ten small quenelles (No. 123) of game, and as many slices of truffles to the sauce.

No. 914. Bécasses à la purée.

Roast three woodcocks as before, having previously roasted one, with which make a purée as directed (No. 59), sauce round and serve.

915. Snipes or Bécassines.

Snipes may be dressed in any way as directed for the woodcocks, but being much smaller you cut them in halves instead of filleting them, dress round to form a crown, only you require more of them.

No. 916. Plovers.

Plovers, like other game, require to be kept a short time before they are cooked; they are dressed similar to woodcocks, although not quite so recherché; when well dressed they are very delicious.

No. 917. Filets de Pluviers à la Marie Antoinette.

Roast eight plovers well wrapped up in thin slices of bacon, and tied up in paper; when done leave them to get cold in the bacon, then cut out the fillets as for woodcocks, and stick the pilon of the leg at the point of each fillet; let a piece of the bacon remain over each fillet, egg and bread-crumb twice over, and fry them a nice colour in salad oil; chop up the legs, bones, and trimmings of the birds, and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion in slices, and a little raw ham minced; place it on the fire a couple of minutes, then add a pint and a half of good white stock; place it again on the fire, and let it simmer half an hour, skim, and pass it through a cloth into another stewpan, reduce to a thin glaze, then mix a little arrow-root with three spoonfuls of white stock and the juice of half a lemon, pour it into the sauce, keeping it stirred till boiling, dress the fillets in crown on a circle of mashed potatoes, sauce round, and serve very hot and crisp.

No. 918. Filets de Pluviers aux truffes.

Proceed with the fillets exactly as in the last, make ten croutons of bread, upon which put the trail, see woodcocks (No. 905), dress the fillets round alternately with the croutons, put a pint and a half of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), and a gill of consommé in a stewpan, reduce to half, then add six middling-sized truffles in slices, and a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 919. Filets de Pluviers aux champignons.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using mushrooms instead of truffles.

No. 920. Fillets de Pluviers à la Régence.

Roast three plovers in bacon as before, and when done have three larded lambs’ sweetbreads nicely cooked, dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes in a ring, put half a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, boil it a minute, then add twelve stoned French olives, season with a little sugar, sauce in the centre, glaze the sweetbreads, and serve.

No. 921. Pâté chaud des Pluviers.

Make a paste as directed for pâté chaud, see Flancs (No. 618), build up a crust with the hand or in a small round mould to match your dish, then fillet twelve plovers, season them with a little pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, cut some thin slices of fat bacon, with which line the interior of your crust, which has stood a good hour after building to get firm, lay the fillets round, placing a thin slice of fat bacon between each; the pâté must not be more than three inches in height when filled; add four spoonfuls of game sauce, and a few raw mushrooms, cover with a thin sheet of the paste, and ornament the exterior to your fancy, forming a lid with a round piece of puff paste (No. 1132); bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven, take off the lid and as much fat as possible from the top, add half a pint of game sauce (No. 60) quite hot, and serve either with or without the lid.

No. 922. Quails.

The climate of this country is far from being advantageous for these delicate birds, which migrate even from France at the end of the autumn; the quails in this country must be fed in confinement to fatten, before they are fit to be eaten, which destroys much of that beautiful flavour they possess in France, where they feed in their native vineyards.

No. 923. Cailles en macédoine de légumes aux feuilles de vignes.

Truss eight quails, fold each one up in a vine-leaf, and then in a thin slice of bacon, run a skewer through them sideways, which tie upon the spit; then have some vegetables of all kinds, cut up in thin slices, which moisten with a little oil, have then some sheets of paper, upon which lay the vegetables, lay the quails on the spit over them, breasts downwards, cover well with the vegetables, fold the paper round, and tie them up; roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes before a sharp fire; you have prepared a border of vegetables as for Chartreuse (No. 604), but not to stand more than two inches in height; fill it with stewed cabbage and boiled French beans, turn it out on your dish, and dress the quails upon it, their tails towards the centre and their breasts outside; make a pyramid of boiled green peas on the top, and serve a white jardinière sauce (No. 98) round.

No. 924. Cailles aux petits pois.

Proceed exactly as above with the quails, but make the stand entirely of green peas nicely boiled; have ready a pint of stewed peas (No. 1077) with which you have put the quails a few minutes, fill the centre with them, dress the quails round as above, and pour the remainder of the peas in the dish.

No. 925. Turban des Cailles à la Financière.

Roast eight quails in vegetables, but without the vine-leaf and bacon, make a border of forcemeat as for ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673), stand it in your dish, then make a ragout financière (No. 50), but using game sauce instead of brown sauce; put your quails five minutes in the sauce, then dress them round on the border of forcemeat; garniture in the centre, sauce over, and serve.

No. 926. Turban des Cailles aux concombres.

Roast seven quails as before, cut each one in halves lengthwise, have also fourteen pieces of cucumbers the same size, stewed as No. 103, dress them alternately with the halves of quails upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce à la purée de concombres (No. 105) in the centre.

No. 927. Turban de Cailles à la purée de truffes.

Proceed as above, using ten quails instead of seven, and serving with a purée de truffes (No. 53), omit the cucumbers.

No. 928. Quails for Vol-au-vents, or Pâté chaud.

Roast and cut them in halves if for vol-au-vents, put them in a white financière sauce (No. 50), but if for pâtés chauds, in a brown financière twenty minutes before serving.

No. 929. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Parisienne.

Procure six large pigeons, fillet and form them into cotelettes (see cotelettes de perdreaux, No. 885), stuff with a little forcemeat of fowl, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry a light yellow colour in oil; fry also twelve croutons of bread the size and shape of the cotelettes, and dress them alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, to form a crown; sauce with a purée de concombres (No. 105) made brown instead of white, and serve, glazing the cotelettes lightly.

No. 930. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Financière.

Proceed as in the last, only serving with a ragout à la financière (No. 50) instead of the purée.

No. 931. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux aux pois verts.

Proceed as before, and serve with a pint of green peas, prepared as for cotelettes de mouton aux pois (No. 713). They may also be served with a sauce aux truffes (No. 51), Italienne (No. 30), jardinière (No. 100), or sauce piquante (No. 27).

No. 932. Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Suliman.

Prepare the cotelettes as usual, season them well with chopped parsley, do. eschalots, and a little pepper and salt; procure a pig’s caul, cut into twelve pieces, in each of which fold a cotelette, place them in a sauté-pan, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but rather underdone; dress on a border of plain boiled rice, which you have made hot and seasoned with a little salt and pepper, and moistened with a piece of butter; serve very hot with a sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45) in the centre.

No. 933. Turban of Larks à la Parisienne.

Larks when in good order and fat are excellent for entrées. Bone eighteen fine ones with a penknife, lay a little forcemeat of game (No. 123), in the interior of each, with a few fillets of truffles, sew them with packthread, giving them their first shape as near as possible; cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, then lay in the larks, which again cover with sheets of fat bacon; add a few vegetables of each sort in slices, with a bunch of parsley, two glasses of Madeira wine, and half a pint of consommé; cover the stewpan, and place it in a moderate oven; when the birds feel tender they are done; take them out, and lay them on a dish; lay another dish over, and press them lightly till cold; pass the stock they were cooked in through a cloth into a stewpan, and skim off all the fat; use it with the bones of the larks to make a sauce (No. 60); when the sauce is of a proper consistence, add twenty small quenelles (No. 120), put it in the bain-marie to keep hot, pull all the packthread from the larks, and put them in a stewpan with a little consommé, warm them gently, have ready a border of forcemeat as for turban de cailles (No. 925), dress the larks in crown upon it, garniture in the centre, sauce over, and serve.

No. 934. Turban of Larks aux fines herbes.

Proceed with the larks as in the last, dress them on a border of forcemeat, and make the sauce the same; put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with half a one of oil, fry a light yellow colour, keeping them stirred; add one of parsley and two of chopped mushrooms, with which mix a quarter of one of flour, and twelve of the sauce; stir it over the fire twenty minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, take it off the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg very quickly; pour all over the larks, let them get cold, egg and bread-crumb over, and place them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, salamander a nice colour and sauce as in the last, omitting the quenelles, and pouring round instead of over; serve very hot.

No. 935. Turban of Larks aux quenelles.

Prepare eight larks as for à la Parisienne; have also prepared eight quenelles de gibier (No. 123) of the same size as the larks, dress them alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce au fumée de gibier (No. 60) over.

No. 936. Pâté Chaud de Mauviettes.

Prepare a crust as for the pâté chaud de pluviers, bone twenty-four larks, stuff them with forcemeat, but do not sew them, fold a slice of fat bacon round each, fill your pâté, and proceed exactly as in No. 623.

No. 937. Pâté Chaud de Mauviettes gratiné.

Proceed as above, but when you have filled the pâté have half a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix some chopped eschalots, do. parsley, and do. mushrooms; cover all over the larks, and again cover that with slices of fat bacon; bake an hour and a half; when done take off the lid, and the fat bacon, salamander the forcemeat a nice brown, and serve with some clear strong consommé (in which you have boiled the bones of the larks reduced to a demi-glaze), poured over.

No. 938. Vol-au-vent de Mauviettes.

Bone twelve or eighteen larks according to the size of your vol-au-vent, which you have previously made (see No. 1137), stuff them lightly, place a leg-bone in the breast of each, and form them in the shape of a pear; place them in a stewpan covered with slices of fat bacon, add a glass of sherry, with a little stock and a few vegetables, stew them gently one hour, then in another stewpan have a pint of sauce velouté de gibier made as directed (No. 58) from the bones of the larks; take the larks out of the braise, drain them on a cloth, then put them into the sauce, with ten blanched mushrooms; when hot fill the vol-au-vent, and serve directly.

OF THE ROASTS FOR SECOND COURSE.

In London the poultry and game are sent in so nicely prepared for cooking that any remark upon the method of killing, plucking, and drawing them would appear almost unnecessary, but remembering the manner that I have seen poultry and game mutilated in some parts of the country, I have been induced to give the following simple directions.

The best way of killing poultry is to take the bird by the neck, placing the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head, closing the head in your hand, your left hand holding the bird, then press your thumb down hard and pull the head and neck contrariwise, the neck will break instantaneously, and the bird will be quite dead in a few seconds, when hang it a short time by the legs for the blood to flow into the head, which renders the flesh much whiter. In France we usually kill them by cutting the throat close to the head; both methods are good with regard to the whiteness of the flesh, but I prefer the English method, not being so barbarous.

To pluck either game or poultry have the bird upon a board with its head towards you, and pull the feathers away from you, which is the direction they lay in; many persons pull out the feathers in a contrary direction, by which means they are likely to tear the skin to pieces, which would very much disfigure the bird for the table.

To draw poultry after it is well plucked, cut a long incision at the back of the neck, cut the neck bone off close to the body of the bird, but leave the skin a good length over, then take out the thin skin from under the outer with the crop, cut an incision under the tail just large enough for the gizzard to pass through, no larger, then put your finger into the bird at the breast and detach all the intestines, squeeze the body of the bird and force out the whole from the incision at the tail; it is then ready for trussing, the method of doing which will be given in the various receipts throughout this series. The above method of drawing poultry is equally applicable to game.

To make a gravy for roasts well butter the bottom of a convenient-sized stewpan, upon which lay three onions in thick slices, over which lay a few slices of lean bacon and three pounds of lean beef; place it over a good fire and add two cloves and six peppercorns, with a few sprigs of parsley; when the onions begin to brown stir the meat round with a wooden spoon, keeping the onions still at the bottom, stir occasionally until the onions are well browned but not burnt, then fill up with two quarts of water and half an ounce of salt; when boiling place it at the corner of the fire, skim and let it simmer an hour, skim again, pass it through a cloth into a basin and use when required.

The simplicity of roasting is so generally known by all classes of cooks that but very little attention is often paid to it; the simplicity of the arrangement for roasting being such as with many to leave it to attend to itself; but I shall here in a very few words show my readers the facility of roasting well and with little trouble, which I consider of the greatest importance, especially in a dinner-party where, after the entrées have been well degusted, nothing refreshes the palate or disposes it better for the second course than a fillet or cut from the fillet of a well-roasted capon, chicken, or some description of game, but if badly roasted it would lose its effect.

In roasting much depends upon the fire which requires to be solid and to throw out a great heat, as it is always easy to keep anything a good distance from it, but a bad fire would be the destruction of anything placed before it, for if you had a couple of good fowls or a brace of birds, and were to put one down before a slow fire and the other before a brisk, you would be so astonished at the difference in flavour that did you not know different you would declare that one was of an inferior quality; I am also very much against the improper manner of basting, which would give any birds or poultry the appearance of having been first roasted and afterwards stewed; I have never during the last six years suffered any bird to be basted in my kitchen with the exception of rubbing a piece of butter over the breast of poultry or game as soon as the skin becomes set; any kind of game or poultry is done when you perceive a great smoke arising from it, and if not taken up immediately you lose the flavour and the bird its appearance, for instead of going to table nice and plump it will present a mean and shrivelled object, loudly bespeaking the cook’s inattention, unless it has been kept in a screen or hot closet, by the party having kept the dinner waiting.

By following the above simple method great benefit will be derived in this simple branch of the art, but the most universally useful, for I think we may say without hesitation that near two thirds of our animal and volatile food is daily roasted, which has made me so desirous of impressing the necessity of attention, which is all that is required to roast well.

No. 939. Roast Turkey au Cresson.

For second course a turkey should be very small and well trussed, the breast thrown out, the sinews of the legs cut and the feet chopped off, run a skewer through the pinion of the right wing, passing it beneath the thigh-bones and through the pinion of the left wing, run your spit through the body, passing it between the skewer and the back-bone, and tie the legs upon a rest (made by folding a thick piece of carrot about two inches long and one broad in buttered paper) upon the spit to keep the legs upon a level with the thighs; have a good clear fire, put down the turkey at a short distance from it, five minutes after it is down rub it over the breast a minute with a piece of butter which being hard and cold you have pressed into a large wooden spoon, (made with a very long handle, by which means you can rub it over the bird whilst turning without approaching too near the fire,) about a quarter of a pound would be sufficient for six or eight; then place it a little further back, (according to the heat and size of your fire,) the butter will form a froth over it; if the skin should blister you must put it still further from the fire, keep it of a nice gold colour, and when done serve with gravy in the dish and garnish with nice fresh water-cresses.

A turkey weighing five pounds will require about three quarters of an hour to roast, and so on in proportion, but one of that size is quite large enough for a roast second course; but if before a small fire an hour and a quarter, or if a larger turkey an hour and twenty minutes.

No. 940. Turkey Barded.

Truss a turkey as described in the last, have a square piece of fat bacon the eighth of an inch in thickness and large enough to cover the breast, upon which tie it with packthread; roast and serve as in the last, taking away the packthread but leaving the bacon; it will require a little longer to roast as the bacon prevents the fillets from being done so soon.

No. 941. Turkey Larded.

Lard the breast of a young turkey as you would a noix de veau (No. 565), (only cut the bacon finer), to facilitate the larding, dip the breast in a stewpan of boiling water, or pass it a minute over the flame of a charcoal fire to set the skin to the flesh, place it down to roast but do not butter it over the larded part; serve with gravy and water-cresses in a dish as before.

No. 942. Dindonneau truffé à la Périgord.

This dish is sometimes served as a roast in the second course, but very seldom in this country. Proceed exactly as for the remove (No. 524), but choose a very small turkey, for what would look noble in the first course would appear vulgar in the second.

No. 943. Dindonneau farci.

Have a young turkey, but do not let its weight exceed six pounds, have ready one pound of veal forcemeat with which mix six truffles in small dice and half a pound of fat livers previously blanched, season well, then stuff the breast and interior of the turkey, fasten the skin over to the backbone, (but not too tight,) with a packing-needle and string, and roast in vegetables as for the removes; about a quarter of an hour before it is finished take the vegetables from it, and place it closer to the fire to take a nice gold colour; serve with a little gravy in the dish. It will require one hour to roast.

No. 944. Roast Turkey à l’Anglaise.

Have a young turkey, stuff the breast with some veal stuffing (No. 127), roast it plain as directed, and serve with a little gravy and water-cresses; a few small country sausages broiled very crisp should be handed round the table.

No. 945. Turkey Poults.

Turkey poults, so called from being used when about the size of a large poulet, are trussed with the legs turned at the knuckle and the feet pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned and the head fixed under the wing; roast them the same as directed for turkeys, about twenty-five minutes or half an hour, according to their size, and in the same modes, but they are usually served, one larded and the other barded, with gravy and water-cresses in the dish.

No. 946. Chapon rôti au cresson.

Roast and serve a capon in any of the ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice gold colour and serve with water-cresses round; a capon weighing five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast. Poularde au cresson exactly as above.

No. 947. Poularde à la Demidoff.

Put a pint and a half of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, place it over the fire and reduce until becoming thick, keeping it stirred, then add twenty dressed cockscombs and twelve small French truffles, season with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, take it off the fire and stir in two yolks of eggs very quickly, stir it another minute over the fire to set, and put it away to get cold, then have a nice poularde trussed with the legs turned inside, cutting off the feet, which stick into the apertures where you turned in the legs, fix them in with string and a packing-needle, as also the legs and wings, using no skewers, and giving the poularde a handsome appearance, take out the breast-bone, stuff the poularde with the above preparation, roast it in vegetables as for the removes; when nearly done take away the vegetables and give it a nice colour; have ready the following sauce: put a pint and a half of white veal stock in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and reduce it to a white demi-glace, then add a little sugar and four spoonfuls of good cream; sauce round and serve.

No. 948. Poularde rôti à la Stäel.

Roast a nice poularde in vegetables as above, when nearly done take away the vegetables, let it turn a few minutes before the fire, then rub it all over with butter, have some bread-crumbs and flour mixed together in a flour-box, which shake over the poularde by degrees whilst roasting, it will form a white crust over, take it up and serve with a demi-glace de volaille (No. 6) under.

No. 949. Poulet rôti.

For a dinner of four entrées you would require two fowls, but not too large, truss and roast them as directed for a turkey, judging the time required according to their size, serve with gravy and watercresses; they may be larded, barded, or served in any way mentioned in the foregoing receipts; a fowl weighing two pounds and a half would require half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour if larger.

No. 950. Spring Chickens.

Are served like fowls, generally plain roasted, but they may be larded or dressed à la Stäel (No. 948) as the poularde. Be particular in tying the legs upon paper to the spit, as directed for the turkey, as it so improves their appearance when roasted. About twenty-five minutes would be sufficient to roast them.

No. 951. Spring Chickens à la Forrester.

Truss them as directed for poularde (No. 947), but roast them quite plain, not very brown; have two good handfuls of very fresh water-cresses, pick off all the stalks, and one of small salad mixed well together, and completely cover the chickens with it, serve a little gravy on the dish with some separate, and a boat of bread sauce.

No. 952. Geese.

A green goose roasted plain and served with a little gravy is generally sent up for second courses; but if the larger ones are used they must be stuffed with sage and onions, but very few would choose such a thing for a roast second course, whilst green geese in their season are great favourites, truss them by cutting off the leg at the knuckle, and the wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side with skewers to throw the breast up; a full-grown goose will take one hour to roast, but a green one not more than half an hour.

No. 953. Ducklings.

Make a very favourite roast in the London season, they must have good fillets, white and plump, and require to be a little more underdone than any other description of poultry; if too much done the fat catches and gives a rank flavour to the flesh, besides causing the fillets to eat dry, they are usually served plain roasted for a second course, but I have served them differently upon some occasions for the sake of variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that invigorates the palate, although they never can be better than when served plain roasted, I shall here give one or two deviations; truss them by twisting the legs at the knuckles and resting the feet upon the thighs, cut the wing off at the first pinion, and run a skewer through the bird, fixing the pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit and roast twenty minutes.

No. 954. Canetons au vin de Madère.

Roast them plain, but just before they are done shake a little potato-flour over them mixed with a little common flour, dress them on your dish, and have ready the following sauce: put three spoonfuls of chopped olives and one of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two glasses of Madeira wine, reduce it a minute, then add half a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) with a little cayenne, sugar, and six spoonfuls of consommé, reduce it till it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, then add the juice of half a lemon, sauce under and serve.

No. 955. Canetons au jus d’orange.

Roast two ducklings plain, and serve with a sauce au jus d’orange (No. 17) over.

No. 956. Canetons au jus d’eschalotte.

Roast as in the last and serve with a sauce au jus d’eschalotte (No. 16) under.

No. 957. Guinea Fowls.

These birds must be very young, for being naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than twelve months old; they are generally larded or barded, and served plain roasted, rather well-done, they are trussed like the common fowls, and require nearly three quarters of an hour to roast.

No. 958. Pea Fowls.

These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when young are very excellent, they are larded, plain roasted, and served with the tail stuck into them, which you have preserved, the head with its feathers being left folded up in paper and tucked under the wing; roast about an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and neck, dress it upon your dish with water-cresses and a border of tulips or roses round, and the gravy separate in a boat.

In large families where these volatile demi-gods are plentiful, I would recommend them to have one of the finest peacock’s tails mounted in silver, and made to easily fix upon the dish, by means of a slide, in which the fowl is served, it would look splendid upon table, and remind us of the ancient Roman banquets, where Lucullus, Tiberius, and Horace used to feast and sing their love.

No. 959. Pigeons

Are trussed as a fowl to roast, and served plain roasted, with a little gravy in the dish, or roasted with a vine-leaf upon the breast, over which you have tied a square piece of bacon, they will take a quarter of an hour to roast, but serve them with the bacon and leaf over; my new way of cooking them is to cut up a head or two of celery into very thin layers, lay some on the breast of each, and tie pieces of fat bacon over, roast and serve with a little gravy as usual; this method has been much approved of.

No. 960. Quails.

Eight quails are sufficient for a dish, they should be killed if possible forty-eight hours before dressing, draw and truss them by cutting off the wings at the first pinion, leaving the feet, and fixing the pinion of the wing and legs with a very small skewer; cover the breasts with vine-leaves, over which tie a thin square slice of fat bacon, then pass a long skewer through the pinions and thighs of each, tie them on a spit and roast them nearly twelve minutes at a convenient distance from a sharp fire of a nice gold colour, serve with a little gravy in the dish.

No. 961. Cailles à l’Eloise.

Prepare eight quails with the bacon and vine-leaves as before, then have a pig’s caul, cut it into eight square pieces and fold a quail in each, roast them a minute longer than in the last, and serve with a very thin sauce béchamel (No. 7) which you have finished with a spoonful of whipped cream under.

No. 962. Pheasants

For second course are usually served plain, you require two of them for a dish in a four entrée dinner, truss them the same as a fowl, leaving the head and neck on, which skin, and fix round at the side with the skewer you have fixed the wing and legs with; a middling-sized one will take about half an hour before a brisk fire, they are also good larded, or one larded and the other barded.

No. 963. Faisans à la Galitzine.

Roast a couple of pheasants, and when done cut the breasts in slices without detaching them; put six spoonfuls of consommé of game in a stewpan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two minutes, then add two pats of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, pour over and serve.

No. 964. Grouse

Are generally served plain roasted upon a piece of toast, with gravy separate in a boat; they may also be served à la Rob Roy, as directed for the Remove (No. 548), but two birds will be sufficient for a roast, truss them as you would a fowl to roast.

No. 965. Grouse à la Bonny Lassie.

Truss them rather roughly, roast them before a brisk fire rather underdone, if young a quarter of an hour will be sufficient, and serve them upon toast, crisp and well-buttered, made from brown bread, and serve with a rather thick and boiled melted butter (No. 71) over.

Grouse may likewise be served for a change with a thin sauce à l’essence de gibier, with which you may add a few truffles or mushrooms, but this will of course much depend upon the first course, or, at least, of what the first course consists, although, as I have before stated, they are better plain roasted; yet in some parts of the country where they are plentiful a change may be desired.

Ptarmigans

Are Swedish birds, but many are found in Scotland, much of the same species as grouse, and are very plentiful about the month of February; they are dressed precisely in the same way as the grouse. A curious anecdote of the celebrated Charles the Twelfth, relating to what he used to call a fête, or repas champêtre, gave me the idea of inventing the following roast, and calling it

Ptarmigan à la Charles the Twelfth.

Kill them by accident, pluck them immediately, draw them, and save the feathers and interior, put three guns in bivouac, and hang the ptarmigans on one side with string or green twigs, light a wood fire beneath, upon which put the feathers and interior, let remain, turning them the whole time, till done, and serve them au naturel, with a good bit of salt sprinkled over them; many people would object to this method, but the flavour is excellent to a scientific palate, and more so to a hungry stomach.

The anecdote is as follows: crossing a mountain in Sweden with a small part of his army, the King was unexpectedly attacked by a numerous body of Russians, and a skirmish took place, but the King was as usual victorious; having lost several of his braves, a search was made for them in the heather, where they found one hundred and fifty-one killed and thirty wounded, being fifteen of the enemy, two Swedish officers, one lieutenant, seven privates, one hundred and thirty ptarmigans, and twenty-five black cocks, all killed by accident, the birds were, by command of his Majesty, plucked and roasted, to the no small satisfaction of his troops, who were short of provisions at the time; so great was the treat that they hoped his Majesty would often repeat the fête champêtre.

No. 966. Black Cocks and Grey Hens.

These birds, like pheasants, must be well kept; they are excellent eating, and are usually served plain roasted, trussed like grouse, but may be served à la Stockholm as follows: lard one side of the breast, and cover the other side with vine-leaves and fat bacon, which tie on, roast from half to three quarters of an hour according to the size, and serve with toast under, and gravy in the dish.

No. 967. Partridges

Make a very nice roast, truss them in the same manner as directed for grouse, obtain them young if possible, the old ones although not the best for stewing eat much better dressed that way; four will be sufficient for a roast, put them upon the spit, and when the first course goes to table place them before a sharp fire fifteen minutes, or according to the size, and serve with a gill of clear gravy upon the dish and bread sauce in a boat; you may also lard or bard them with fat bacon, or lard two and bard two, allowing them a little longer to roast, it will give them a very nice appearance.

No. 968. Dun Birds

Are very seldom sent to table, but plain roasted is the usual way, and a little or no improvement can be made; serve them in a dish with gravy and a lemon separate, not too much underdone.

No. 969. Wild Ducks and Pintails.

Must not be too old, they require keeping two or three days or longer before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting each leg at the knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of the breast, fixing them with a skewer run through the thighs and pinion of the wings (No. 953), rub the liver over the breasts, and roast them from fifteen to twenty minutes rather brown, serve three for a roast, as the breast is the only part eatable, a little gravy on the dish and lemons separate.

No. 970. Wild Ducks à la Chasseur.

Truss them as before, rub the liver over, and roast underdone, cut the breast in slices without detaching them, catch the gravy that escapes in a sauté-pan, add a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place it on the fire, and when hot add four pats of butter, half a glass of port wine, a little mignonette, pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, shake altogether over the fire, and when the butter is melted sauce over and serve. Although I have directed that they should be roasted underdone they must have no appearance of rawness.

No. 971. Widgeons

Require but very little keeping before they are dressed, if well roasted they are nearly equal to the wild duck, and are served the same; it requires rather more than a quarter of an hour to roast them to perfection.

No. 972. Teal

Make a beautiful roast as well as entrée, and when in good order are very delicious, after a frost they are generally very fat; truss them with care, leaving the breast the same as ducklings, six will be sufficient for a dish, keep them a very light brown colour and rather crisp, serve with a little gravy and water-cresses, if approved of, serve lemon separate; these birds being tender are easily cut in halves by the carver, to one half of which he can assist each guest; they will require about eight minutes roasting.

No. 973. Teal au jus d’orange.

Roast as above, and serve with a sauce au jus d’orange (No. 17) over them, or they may be served with a sauce au jus de bigarade (No. 18), or a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61).

No. 974. Plovers

Are good when well kept, and excellent as a roast, truss, but do not draw them, and put six on a skewer, set some toast underneath to catch the trail which may escape from them whilst roasting, about ten minutes is sufficient; cut the toast in diamond shapes, place them in your dish with the plovers over, and gravy separate in a boat, they may also be served barded with the vine-leaf as for pigeons or quails, but the bacon must be very thin, and when roasted quite crisp, black plovers are dressed in the same way, but the golden ones are the most delicate.

No. 975. Of the Woodcock.

These birds are one of the greatest luxuries, they must not be too fresh or too stale when dressed; they are fit for cooking when they look black between the legs and the feathers become rather loose; pluck and truss them with the legs twisted at the knuckles and the feet pressing upon the thighs; bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, you have previously skinned the head and neck, bring the beak round under the wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs, place about four upon a skewer, tie them upon a spit and roast them from ten to fifteen minutes before a sharp fire with a piece of toasted bread beneath to catch the trail that falls from them; when done cut the toast in diamond shapes, each piece large enough to stand a bird upon, dress them slantwise on your dish with gravy sufficient to lightly moisten the toast, and some separate in a boat; they may also be barded with a piece of bacon tied over the breast not too thick, but they will require rather longer to roast. The beak may be made to form the skewer.

No. 976. Woodcocks à la Stäel.

Truss as before, put them down to roast, when down two minutes rub butter over, and shake flour gently but continually over them till done, it will give them quite a new appearance, and are by many preferred to plain roasted; serve them on a toast as before.

No. 977. Woodcocks à la fumée de Gibier.

Roast as before and serve with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), which you have finished with a pat of butter. Although I recommend that this delicate bird should be served plain roasted, yet it may be served with advantage as above directed.

No. 978. Woodcocks à la Piedmontaise.

Roast as before then cut four large truffles in slices, fry them a few minutes in oil, then pour off the oil, add ten tablespoonfuls of sauce fumée de gibier and a little sugar, boil altogether two minutes, dress the birds on toast, sauce over and serve.

No. 979. Larks

Are very delicious little birds, about twelve or fifteen are sufficient for a dish; they are usually roasted plain, or with a thin slice of fat bacon tied over them, and served with a little gravy in the dish and crumbs of fried bread round; they require about eight minutes to roast them well.

No. 980. Snipes

Are somewhat similar to woodcocks, and dressed exactly the same, but you require eight or ten for a dish; they do not require more than ten minutes roasting.

No. 981. Hares.

One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it nicely, stuff the belly with a good veal stuffing, sew it up, then put it on the spit, rub butter over the back and shake flour over it, roast it about forty minutes before a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size of course; serve them with plain gravy in the dish and currant jelly separate. They are also served with a sauce poivrade (No. 32), or sauce au jus d’groseilles (No. 36), they may also be larded.

No. 982. Leverets

Are plain roasted and do not require stuffing, nor so long roasting being smaller; they are usually served with plain gravy, but may be served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last; you require two for a roast. They will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes roasting.

No. 983. Rabbits.

You require two for a roast; they may be stuffed with a good veal stuffing or forcemeat of veal, plain roasted, and served with a little gravy on the dish. Wild rabbits are dressed precisely the same; they may be stuffed with a forcemeat of game instead of veal, both require butter and flour rubbed over them, and will take from twenty to twenty-five minutes roasting.

SAVOURY DISHES FOR SECOND COURSE.

These dishes are divided into three classes, and in England all belong to the second course, but in France they are very frequently served in the first with a dinner of four or six entrées, that is, one or two of them, and are very commendable in the summer months; for breakfasts, luncheons, or suppers, they are invaluable. The large pieces, such as pâtés of game, galantine of turkey, poulardes, boars’ heads, &c., are in smaller dinners placed at the bottom of the table to face the roasts, but in a dinner of six or ten entrées they are served as flancs. All others, such as small galantine of game à la volière, pâtés, chaud froids, salads, mayonnaise, &c., by making them smaller may be served as savoury entremets, in a corner dish.