The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery / With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

by Alexis Soyer

THE BOAR’S HEAD.

Has in all times ornamented the tables and even the walls of ancient epicures;—a princely dish is a boar’s head, its ferocious appearance giving it such noble dignity when brought to table that it has not only been recognized as one of the first and most recherché dishes of antiquity, but has been immortalized by some of the oldest masters; never has an antique banquet been represented without the introduction of either a black or white servant in the act of bringing or placing a boar’s head upon the table of a wealthy amphytrion. Sneiders, Weenix, and Rubens, have often traced it upon their immortal canvasses, which were eagerly bought by the greatest epicureans to embellish their banqueting halls, and to show their children, from generation to generation, how their great forefathers used to live.

No. 984. Of the Boar’s Head à l’Antique.

Procure a head with as much of the neck attached to it as possible, singe it well, holding it over a charcoal fire, and keeping it moved, then wipe it with a cloth, scrape well with a knife without scratching the skin, and place it on a cloth upon its skull, open it with your knife from one end to the other, and bone it very carefully without piercing the skin, leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones, bone the two necks of the boar, which cut into long fillets two inches square, place the head in a salting-tub, over which put ten pounds of salt, one of brown sugar, ten bay-leaves, half an ounce of peppercorns, a quarter ditto of cloves, six blades of mace, eight minced onions, twenty sprigs of thyme, ten ditto of winter savoury, and two sliced carrots; mix all well together and leave it eight or ten days, (rubbing the head every other day,) until well salted, then take it out, dry it well upon a cloth, lay the head straight before you, skin side downwards, have ready ten pounds of forcemeat (No. 120,) (but using the flesh of the wild boar instead of veal,[9]) with which cover the interior of the head an inch in thickness at the thinnest parts, roll the fillets cut from the neck in pieces of the rind, (both salted with the head and dried upon a cloth,) place a layer of them lengthwise in the head, with a long piece of fat bacon half an inch square between each, sprinkle a little chopped eschalots, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, and place here and there about a pound of the best preserved truffles, with one of very green pistachios blanched and skinned, and continue filling with forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the whole, finishing by covering forcemeat over; join the two cheeks together with the above in the interior, sew it up with packthread giving it the shape of the head as much as possible and fold it in one or two large thin cloths leaving the ears out and upright; braise as follows: put half a pound of butter in a large braising-pan or stock-pot, over which put fifteen pounds of trimmings of pork or knuckles of veal, eight onions, two carrots, four turnips, eight bay-leaves, a tablespoonful of peppercorns, twelve cloves, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of marjoram, four blades of mace, a bottle of bucellas wine, and four calves’ feet, place it upon a sharp fire stirring it occasionally until the bottom is covered with a clearish glaze, then add six gallons of water and a pound of salt, when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove, skim, and put in the head the ears uppermost and let simmer seven or eight hours, perhaps more, according to the size and age of the boar, but the better plan would be to try it with a trussing-needle; if tender it is done; skim the stock, in which leave the head until half cold, when take it out, partly undo the cloths, and tie it again tighter if possible, and press it in a cover or upon a baking sheet with three flat pieces of wood, one at each side with a weight against them, and one upon the top between the ears, on which place a fourteen pounds weight, let it remain all night until quite cold, when take it out of the cloths, detach the thread it was sewn up with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind the ears, (from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as possible,) it will have a marbled appearance, trim the head a little, setting the ears in a proper position, glaze it with a brownish glaze, form the eyes with a little lard and round pieces of truffles, and the tusks with pâté d’office (No. 1137) baking them, have some very fresh tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and some around, but leaving space to carve, garnish boldly with croutons aspic made from the stock clarified as directed (No. 1360).

A black hog’s head may be dressed exactly the same with the greatest success; pig’s heads also, but more simplified, proceeding as for galantine (No. 998), but having the meat pickled.

A plain pickled boar’s head is also very much thought of, and is a noble dish: singe the head as before, but leaving a few bristles round the eyes and ears, tie it up in a cloth, and braise as before until quite tender. It must not be boned.

The head of the young boar or marcassin is very delicate dressed in either method, so likewise are the legs, necks, shoulders and saddles, pickled and roasted, or braised and served with a poivrade or any other highly-seasoned sauce, cotelettes may also be cut from the necks.

The following is the German method of making a sauce to be eaten with boar’s head: cut the rind (free from pith) of two Seville oranges into very thin strips half an inch in length, which blanch in boiling water, drain them upon a sieve and put them into a basin, with a spoonful of mixed English mustard, four of currant jelly, a little pepper, salt, (mix well together,) and half a pint of good port wine.

No. 985. Ribs of Beef à la George the Fourth.

Beef, as for entrées, offers but very little variation for second course dishes, the ribs, fillets, and tongue being the only parts to be recommended; and even these are more fit for luncheons or suppers.

Take a piece of ribs of beef with five bones, well covered, but not too fat nor too large, bone it and lard the thick part with long pieces of fat bacon and lean ham or tongue, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, then lay the beef on a dish, with a little pepper, salt, fifty peppercorns, six blades of mace, ten eschalots in slices, half a pint of Madeira, and a little thyme and bay-leaves, let remain thus five days in winter, and but three in summer, turn and rub it every day; when ready to dress clear away the ingredients, roll and tie it up, then put two pounds of lean ham cut in dice in a large stewpan, with two ounces of butter and six large Portugal onions, pass gently over a slow fire, keeping stirred, put in the beef, let it braise gently until becoming a good colour, add water sufficient to reach half way up the beef, with half a pint of Madeira, two calves’ feet, a good bunch of parsley, and twenty pieces of carrots, turned the size and shape of young carrots, let it remain over a slow fire and place some live charcoal upon the lid, let stew gently four or five hours, or until tender, which try with a trussing-needle, but take out the carrots and onions as soon as done; when done take out the feet and skim off all the fat, leave it in the stock till three parts cold, then take it up, place it in a deep dish-cover, take off the string, and strain the stock through a sieve over it, then lay another dish upon the beef, upon which place a twenty-eight pounds weight, and leave it till quite cold, warm the stock and pass it through a napkin, season a little more if required, and place it in a mould upon ice, dress the beef on a dish, glaze it nicely, dress the onions at each end and the carrots in pyramid at each side, cut the stock when firm in croutons, with which garnish the beef tastefully and serve; should the stock be thick clarify it as directed for consommé (No. 134); it is not, however, required to be very clear. To carve it must be cut in slices crosswise.

No. 986. Ribs of Beef à la Bolingbroke.

Proceed with the beef just as in the last, but put a roll of veal stuffing (No. 127) in the centre, the carrots and onions only being required for flavour are cut in small slices; press your beef as in the last, but thicken the stock with a little roux to form a thin brown sauce, with which make a good sauce piquante (No. 27), which flavour slightly with a little scraped garlic, place the beef in your dish, and the sauce upon ice, when nearly cold and ready to set pour it over, sprinkling the top with grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed some chopped gherkins, it is then ready to serve.

No. 987. Filet de Bœuf froid à la Bohémienne.

Prepare and lard a fillet of beef as directed for the Removes (No. 417), then put it in a basin in which you have put the following marinade: four onions in slices, one carrot, a head of celery, ten sprigs of thyme, eight bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, and a little parsley, which pass in half a pound of butter in a stewpan over a sharp fire five minutes, then add one quart of vinegar, one of water, two ounces of salt, and half a pound of brown sugar, with twenty peppercorns, ten cloves, and two blades of mace, boil half an hour, but do not put in the fillet till the marinade is cold, let remain a week, and when wanted put it in a braising-pan with one quart of the marinade and two of veal stock or consommé (No. 134), place it over a slow fire, and stew gently for two or three hours, depending upon the size, take it out and place it in a dish to cool, with a little stock over it, skim the remainder and pass it through a napkin into a stewpan, place it upon the fire, reduce it to half, skim it well, add a little clarified isinglass (No. 1372) sufficient to set it as a delicate aspic, six spoonfuls of tomata sauce, and a little red currant jelly; having trimmed and dished the fillet, sauce over, when quite cold garnish with a border of plovers’ eggs, and decorate three silver atelettes, by placing a fine dressed cockscomb at the top, a fine truffle beneath, and a plover’s egg, ornamented with truffles at the bottom, stick them in the fillet, one slanting at each end, and the other upright in the centre, it is then ready to serve.

No. 988. Filets de Bœuf farcis à la Dr. Johnson.

Trim a nice small fillet about fifteen inches long, and cut off the thickest part of the thin end, then with a long knife cut a deep incision down the thin side, lengthwise, which fill with a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120), with which you have mixed some ox-tongue, truffles, and hard-boiled whites of eggs, cut into good-sized fillets, season with a little chopped eschalots, then cover the fillet with leaves of celery as large as you can get them, over which also lay slices of cooked ham, and envelope the whole in thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up with string, then place it in a braising-pan with two calves’ feet, and half cover it with good stock, place it on a slow fire and stew it two hours and a half, or until tender, which try with a trussing-needle, take it up and leave it on a dish to get cold; then pass the stock through a sieve into a stewpan, and place it upon the ice to set, when firm take off all the fat, wash the top with hot water to take off all the grease, then clarify it as directed for aspic (No. 1360), and pass it through a napkin, trim the fillet at each end lightly, leaving the top untouched, when quite cold have ready a long mould and pour a little of the clarified stock into it half an inch in depth, place it on the ice, and when set ornament it with fillets of truffles, tongue, and whites of hard-boiled eggs, which cover carefully with more of the clarified stock half an inch thick; when quite set lay in the fillet of beef, the top downwards, and fill the mould with the remainder of the jelly; when set turn it out of the mould upon a dish by dipping the mould in warm water, garnish round with stoned olives and the remainder of the clarified stock; you may also stick atelettes on the top, ornamented tastefully. If you cannot procure a mould place the fillet upon a dish, and garnish it tastefully with croutons of aspic.

No. 989. Cold Ox Tongues.

Dress them as described for flancs in first course, but as soon as they are cooked skin them and cut off nearly all the root, truss it of a good shape by placing the root end against some fixture, and running a fork through the middle of the thin part into the board; when cold trim it. Although I disapprove of ornamented hot tongues for first course, I must confess that a bold design carved upon a fine tongue is pleasing to the eyes on a luncheon or supper-table, and even for dinners in a second course, although seldom used there; the design must be left entirely to the taste of the artist, but one of the most simple and yet tasty designs, is the imitation of a long escalope shell, commencing at the thin end and terminating at the thick; glaze well with light glaze, a sheet of aspic a quarter of an inch in thickness may be laid over it, which will produce a pleasing effect, dress it upon your dish with croutons of aspic round. Tongues for second course, as for the first, are seldom served by themselves, but are usually intended to be eaten with veal or poultry upon the table.

No. 990. Tongue à la Lancret.

Boil, truss, and trim the tongue as above, dress it on your dish, and have ready the following garniture: boil gently four very fine cauliflowers, not too much done, when cold cut three of them into small bunches, have ready a good sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361) in which you have introduced a little whipped cream, dip each piece of cauliflower in the sauce and lay them on a dish, which set upon the ice, dip also the whole cauliflower in; when the sauce has set firm place the cauliflower upon the root of the tongue with an atelette, dress the bunches round the tongue, variegating them with a few stoned olives; the tongue may also be carved in any design your fancy may dictate and nicely glazed.

No. 991. Tongue à la Printanière.

Trim and carve the tongue when cold in the shape of a palm-branch; have some aspic (No. 1360) flavoured rather strongly with tarragon, have also twenty young carrots and twenty middle-sized onions, dressed as directed in No. 428, let them get cold in their glaze, place the tongue in the centre of the dish, glaze lightly, dress the vegetables alternately round upon a thin border of fresh butter, and just as the aspic is on the point of setting pour it over the vegetables, which will look quite transparent, set the dish on ice till ready to serve, a few green peas if in season may be thrown over the onions.

No. 992. Tangue à la Comédienne.

Truss and trim the tongue as usual, carving a comic mask upon it, glaze lightly, and place it upon your dish, have ready prepared the following garniture: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with one of Chili and one of common vinegar, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, a pint of white sauce (No. 7), half ditto of tomata sauce (No. 37), with double the quantity of aspic gelée, reduce over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred till becoming rather thick, then add a spoonful of capers and the same of chopped gherkins, oil a sauté-pan lightly, pour in the sauce, set it on the ice just before serving, turn out on a cloth, cut it in croutons and garnish tastefully.

No. 993. Cold Ham.

Procure a very nice Westmoreland ham of about nine pounds in weight, soak it ten hours in cold water, and simmer three hours[10] in plenty of water; when done take it out and let remain until cold, when cut off the skin as thinly as possible (but without leaving the marks of it), leaving a piece about two inches and a half broad upon the knuckle, which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat into the form of a shell, branch, or any other design your fancy may direct, glaze lightly, and serve garnished with aspic (No. 1360), chopped and in croutons, or with any of the garnitures directed for the tongues.

No. 994. Fillet of Veal à la Pontoise.

Procure a small leg of veal from a cow calf, cut off the knuckle so as to leave the fillet about eight inches in height, take the bone from the centre, have ready some good veal stuffing (No. 127) in which you have introduced some lean chopped ham and chopped eschalots, season rather high and put it in the place the bone came from, envelope the fillet with large thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up well with string, wrap it in three or four sheets of oiled paper, place it on a spit and roast three hours before a moderate fire, take up, tie it tight in a napkin; place it on a dish to cool, put another dish upon the top, upon which place a fourteen pounds weight, let remain till cold, then take off the paper and bacon, the fillet will be quite white, cut a slice off the top, glaze the sides, and serve with a thin sauce tartare (No. 38) round it.

No. 995. Fillet of Veal à la Cardinale.

Cut a fillet as in the last, have also ready boiled a nice ox-tongue very red; you have also prepared about two pounds of good veal forcemeat (No. 120), run about twenty pieces of fat bacon right through the thickest part of the fillet, surround the tongue (trimmed accordingly) with the forcemeat, and place in the centre of the fillet, but not to protrude out of it, surround it with slices of fat bacon and roast it in vegetables (see Removes, No. 417); when done place it on a dish till cold, without taking away the paper and vegetables, when cold take it out; trim and glaze as in the last, dress on your dish, and garnish with croutons of aspic (No. 1360), cut according to taste, surmount it with six small atelettes, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish (No. 380), truffle, and quenelle de veau (No. 120), it is then ready to serve; the atelettes must be fixed upon the rim of the fillet, leaning outwards to give it a graceful appearance, some of them, however, must be taken out to carve.

No. 996. Loin of Veal au Jambon.

Roast a nice loin in vegetables, in which let it remain till cold, have also a good ham nicely boiled, from which cut twenty-four croutons, the size and shape of small fillets of fowls, dress the veal in the centre and the ham round; fill a large sauté-pan with aspic (No. 1360), which set upon the ice, when firm dip the bottom of the pan in warm water and turn the jelly in one piece over the loin, have also some chopped, with which garnish the ham.

No. 997. Loin of Veal à la Dame Blanche.

Roast a nice loin of veal as in the last, and when cold have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar in a stewpan with a blade of mace, six cloves, six peppercorns, one bay-leaf, and two ounces of raw ham; boil altogether three minutes, then add two quarts of sauce béchamel (No. 7) and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), reduce till rather thick over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred, pass it through a tammie into a stewpan, which place upon the ice, keep it stirred, and just as it is beginning to set stir in half a pint of whipped cream, pour over the loin, which stand upon the ice till the sauce is firm, cut six mild Indian pickles into pieces of equal sizes, which strew carelessly over the top.

No. 998. Galantine de Veau au Jambon.

Bone a breast of veal about fifteen inches in length, cut off the end where the shoulder was taken out, and cut out some of the meat in large pieces from the other, so as to leave the skin about half an inch in thickness; then cut the meat in strips the thickness of your finger, and as long as possible, with a corresponding number of strips of fat bacon and cooked ham; have also ready three pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), lay the skin of the breast downwards, open on the dresser, spread some of the forcemeat down the centre half an inch in thickness, leaving good room at the ends and sides, then put a layer of the strips alternately, season with pepper and salt rather high, cover again with forcemeat, then again a layer of the strips, cover the whole with forcemeat, then cover the flaps over and sew it up tight, fold it in a sheet of paper and tie it up in a cloth, place it in a stewpan, cover with good stock (or put it into a stewpan in which you are preparing a stock), place the stewpan over the fire, and when boiling draw it to the corner, where let simmer three hours and a half, then take it up, untie the cloth, and turn the galantine over, from which take off the paper, fold again in the cloth, but be careful to keep the sewn side uppermost, place it in a deep dish surrounded with the stock, place a flat dish upon it, upon which stand a fourteen pounds weight; let remain till quite cold, take it up, trim, draw out the string it was sewn with, cut off the ends, dress it in the centre of your dish, garnish with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in a roll, round outside of which place croutons of the same, and upon the top of the galantine dress smaller croutons of aspic, brown and white alternately. Gherkins quartered lengthwise may be used for the interior of the galantine. The aspic may be made from the stock the galantine is cooked in, by making an addition of two calf’s feet, and clarifying it as directed.

No. 999. Pâté de Veau au Jambon.

Have ready buttered a large raised pie mould,[11] make also a paste with five pounds of flour mixed with a pint and a half of hot water in which you have dissolved a pound of fresh butter, work the paste very smooth with the hand; when cold line your mould with it three quarters of an inch in thickness, and bringing it more than an inch above the top, reserving the trimmings for a cover, line the inside of the pie with forcemeat (No. 120) half an inch in thickness; then have ready larded with fat bacon four pounds of lean veal, which you have cut in pieces the length of the interior of your pie and two inches square, which place in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and four bay-leaves, and pass them twenty minutes over the fire until well covered with their own glaze; use them when cold, pouring the gravy from them into the pie; have also two pounds of cooked ham, fat and lean, which cut as near as possible of the same size as the veal, lay two pieces of the veal at the bottom of the pie with a piece of ham between, cover with the forcemeat, and proceed in like manner till you have filled the crust, finishing as a dome above the edges of the pie, which raise gracefully with your fingers, and crimp with a pair of paste pincers, after having placed on a cover of paste a quarter of an inch in thickness, making a hole at the top; then lay an oval piece upon the top to form a lid, which ornament with leaves or as fancy directs, bake five hours in a slow oven, then cut off the lid, lay an oval piece of tin (made for that purpose) upon the meat, upon which place a four pounds weight, let remain till the pie is cold, then take out of the mould, glaze the top and garnish with chopped aspic and croutons of the same; serve either with or without the cover. By filling the pie with strong gravy upon taking it from the oven, shaking it well, you will have no occasion to open or press it to carve it, then it must be cut in thin slices through crust and all.

No. 1000. Cotelettes de Veau à la St. Garat.

Cut six nice cotelettes from a neck of veal, of a nice shape, lard them through and through the fillets with thickish pieces of fat bacon and cooked tongue, place them in a sauté-pan, and cover with a good veal stock, stew gently over a slow fire till tender, lay them flat in a dish, pour their stock over, then lay another dish upon them and press lightly till cold, have six moulds the shape and large enough to contain a cotelette, have also some aspic jelly (No. 1360), pour a little in each mould about a quarter of an inch deep, place them on a dish of ice, and when partly set form a rosette or star upon each, with fillets of hard-boiled white of egg and truffles, cover them with a little more aspic to keep them in their places, and when set firm lay a côtelette upon each, fill the moulds up with aspic and place them on the ice till firm, then dip them in hot water and turn them out on your dish, one to follow the other in a circle, if no moulds place them in a sauté-pan, cover them with aspic, and when set turn them out upon a cloth by dipping the bottom of the pan in warm water, and with the point of a knife cut them out of equal sizes.

No. 1001. Côtelettes de Veau à la Princesse.

Cut, braise, and press six côtelettes as above, make a good sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and when getting stiff dip each côtelette in so that it is well covered, and place them in a dish upon the ice, dress salad in pyramid in the centre of a flanc dish, against which lay the côtelettes with a small paper frill upon the bone of each, garnish round with croutons of aspic (No. 1360).

No. 1002. Riz de Veau à la Chinoise.

Lard six small sweetbreads as directed for the entrée (No. 671), which braise, keeping them a very light colour, when cold have some very white aspic (No. 1360), and six small plain round moulds; cover the bottoms of the moulds a quarter of an inch deep with aspic, when partly set garnish round with rows of stoned olives and pickled mushrooms, or pieces of beetroot, boiled carrots, turnips, &c., according to fancy, and make a star or rosette of whites or hard-boiled eggs in the centre, cover with a little more of the aspic and when set firm place in the sweetbreads (topsy-turvy) and fill up with aspic, have some rice well boiled and dry, (see No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter and some pepper and salt, when the butter is melted mix well together and place it to get cold on the ice, dress it in pyramid in the centre of a flanc dish, dip the moulds in warm water, and turn them out in an oval circle round the rice, placing a fine cabbage lettuce upon the top.

No. 1003. Cotelettes de Mouton braisé aux navets.

Cut, lard, and braise twelve mutton cotelettes as directed (No. 722), press them in their stock lightly like the veal cotelettes, when cold trim them of a nice shape, you have prepared a good poivrade sauce (No. 32), to which you have added half a pint of aspic (No. 1360), and when nearly cold dip in the cotelettes, holding them by the bones, until they are quite enveloped, dress them (when quite cold) upon a thin border of fresh butter, garnish with croutons of aspic, and serve a ragout of turnips (No. 93) cold in the centre.

No. 1004. Turban de Cotelette de Mouton à la Fermière.

Braise, press, and trim the cotelettes as in the last, but instead of a poivrade reduce a good maître d’hôtel sauce (No. 43), to which add half a pint of cream; when nearly cold dip the cotelettes in the sauce, place them on the ice till somewhat firm, dress them in crown as in the last, then prepare a salad with half a beetroot, one cucumber, one lettuce, season with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, chopped tarragon and chervil; mix all well together, dress in pyramid in the centre of your cotelettes, which garnish with shoes of cucumber and serve.

No. 1005. Carbonade de Mouton.

Proceed as directed (No. 577), and when the carbonade is cold cut it in slices, which trim and dress as directed in either of the two foregoing receipts.

No. 1006. Ballottins d’Agneau à la de Bazan.

Take two very white small shoulders of lamb, bone them completely, cut off some of the meat at the thickest part, so as to give only a quarter of an inch in thickness, season the inside with a little mixed spice, pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, have ready some forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the shoulders half an inch in thickness with it, then lay alternately small fillets of cooked tongue, fat bacon, and lamb cut from a loin, season with pepper and salt, cover with the forcemeat, then another layer of the fillets, then forcemeat, fold it over and sew it up, giving it the form of an egg; when both done tie them in napkins and braise in good stock, try when done with a larding-pin, if tender take them out, press all ways alike to keep the shape of eggs, when cold take them out of the napkins, draw out the string and dress the two on one dish in a slanting direction, stick an atelette at each end, have ready some aspic (No. 1360), or it may be made from the stock by adding two calf’s feet to it, cover the bottom of a sauté-pan with some of it, let set on the ice, then arrange fifty pickled mushrooms and fifty stoned olives over, fill up the sauté-pan and place it on the ice, when set cut it in croutons, with which garnish the ballottins.

No. 1007. Ballottins à la Catalanaise.

Prepare them exactly as in the last, when cold put a quart of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, half a glass of vinegar, and half a pint of consommé, reduce till rather thick, add a little isinglass dissolved in water and pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, place the stewpan upon the fire, and when boiling add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), in which you have introduced a tablespoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil; when the butter is melted finish with a little cream, place it by to cool, and when upon the point of setting pour it over the ballottins, place them upon the ice till the sauce is quite firm, then garnish tastefully with croutons of aspic (No. 1360) and place an atelette at each end.

No. 1008. Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Gelée.

Take the chine bones from two necks of lamb and saw the ribs rather short, the length you would require your cotelettes, lard the fillets and roast them in vegetables, do not take them out until quite cold, cut your cotelettes from them of a nice shape, reduce a good demi Provençale sauce (No. 34), with which envelope each cotelette, when cold and the sauce is set dress them in crown upon your dish with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in the centre and croutons of the same round.

No. 1009. Cotelettes d’Agneau froid à la Princesse.

Prepare two necks of lamb as above, from which cut the cotelettes, glaze, dress them in crown the reverse way, sauce over with a very white mayonnaise sauce (No, 1364), sprinkle chopped gherkins and chopped ham over.

No. 1010. Galantine de Dinde.

Pluck and draw a turkey, bone it as directed for the poulardes (No. 514), spread it open upon the dresser, have ready some forcemeat as directed (No. 120), spread some down the centre of the turkey, (you have previously turned the legs inside,) half an inch in thickness, have ready some long strips of lean veal the thickness of your finger and the length of the turkey, have also strips of lean cooked ham and fat bacon, lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, season with pepper and salt, then cover with a layer of forcemeat, and so on till you have as much as the bird will contain, finishing with forcemeat, pull the flaps over and sew it up with packthread, tie it up in a napkin and roll it, to press it of the same proportions, put it in a stewpan, with a few vegetables of each sort, and cover with good stock, (or stew it in a veal stock you may be preparing for a white sauce or soup,) stew two hours and a half or till tender, which try with a larding-pin, take it up, untie the string, open the cloth, see that the part where it is sewn up is at the top, wrap it again in the napkin but tie it only at each end, set it in a deep dish surrounded with some of the stock, set another dish upon it and press it till cold with a fourteen pounds weight, make an aspic, using some of the stock it was cooked in as directed (No. 1360), dress the galantine upon a dish, surround it with the aspic chopped and in croutons, and form a star of aspic upon the top, or garnish in any other design your fancy may direct.

No. 1011. Galantine de Dinde aux foies gras.

Proceed exactly as above, using fillets of rabbits instead of veal, and interspersing eight fat livers of poulardes in the interior.

No. 1012. Galantine de Dinde à la Volière.

Bone a very young turkey, and proceed exactly as in the last, using two ounces of pistachios, blanched and skinned, and half a pound of truffles cut into thick fillets, instead of the livers, when stuffed and sewn up roll it very tight in a cloth, which also tie very tight, especially at the tail, which requires to be made so much narrower; stew as before, when done take it out of the napkin, see that the part where it is sewn shall be at the bottom, tie it again in the napkin, but only at the ends, lay it in a deep dish surrounded with the stock it was stewed in, place a dish slantwise upon it (to press the tail thinner), upon which place a ten pounds weight; when cold take it from the napkin, draw out the string and place it upon a dish; you have saved one of the legs of the turkey, cut the foot off an inch and a half below the knuckle, with which form the head and neck of the bird; should the leg of the bird not be of sufficient length make it higher by fixing it upon a wooden skewer, place it at the thickest end of the galantine, covering it with some of the forcemeat (which you have blanched and mixed with a little hot glaze), make of the size and as nearly as possible in imitation of the real head and neck, stick the two claws of a convenient-sized lobster in the sides for wings, and with the tail of the lobster form the tail of the bird; surround it with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in rolls, over which lay thin slices of it to imitate waves, and surround with croutons of the same; it is then ready to serve.

No. 1013. Pâté de Dinde au blanc de Volaille.

Bone a small turkey and line the interior with forcemeat (No. 120), you have prepared a mould as for pâté de veau (No. 999), but using pâte à fine, or pâte à dresser (Nos. 1135, 1136), instead of the pâte there directed, the interior of which also line with forcemeat, trim a nice red ox-tongue (cooked), cut it about the length of the turkey, cover with thickish slices of fat bacon, roll it up in the turkey, which place in the pie, cover with a slice of fat bacon, and again with forcemeat in a dome, finish the pie and bake as directed (No. 999), make a stock with the bones of the turkey, with which make a sauce as directed (No. 57), do not press the meat in the pie, but when three parts cold pour in the sauce, put it in the larder till quite cold, and serve either with or without aspic (No. 1360) on the top.

Galantines may also be made of geese (when young) or pâtés, by following the receipts for the galantines or pâtés of turkey, and adding a little sage and onion to the forcemeat.

Poulardes, capons, and fowls are also used for galantines in either of the ways directed for turkey.

No. 1014. Galantine de Poularde à la Persane.

Make a galantine as directed (No. 998), have ready some grated crust of bread, with which mix an ounce of chopped pistachios; when the galantine is cold glaze it well, and throw the crumbs and pistachios all over, have ready some aspic (No. 1360), put a little in a plain oval mould, about half an inch in depth, when set form a rosette of hard-boiled whites of eggs and truffles, by cutting them with cutters; cover with a little more jelly, so as to make it an inch and a quarter in thickness, the mould must not be quite so large an oval as the galantine; when the aspic is set turn it out of the mould upon the top of the galantine, and precisely in the centre, dress also croutons of aspic around, and stick an atelette at each end, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish and a small hard-boiled egg, shelled and ornamented with wreaths of truffles.

But galantines may be ornamented in several elegant ways, entirely depending upon the taste of the individual; for instance, the aspic may not only be cut in different shaped croutons, but you may have them variegated, (see aspics;) besides the number of tasty designs which may be worked with egg, truffle, pistachios, anchovies, and various things of that description with which aspics may be ornamented; but in all cases let neatness be your object, and avoid confusion or multiplicity of colours.

With the remains of a galantine of any description you may make an excellent and elegant dish, by cutting twenty pieces the size and shape of fillets of fowl; put some aspic a quarter of an inch in depth into a large sauté-pan, stand it on the ice to set, then form twenty stars, or rosettes, with truffles, lay a piece of the galantine over each, which again cover with aspic; when firm dip the pan in warm water, and turn out its contents upon a clean cloth, cut out each fillet with a cutter dipped in hot water, dress them in crown round your dish upon a thin border of anchovy butter, have ready a salad prepared thus: half a dressed beetroot cut in slices, a sliced cucumber, the white of two nice lettuces, and six fillets of anchovies, season with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, and chopped tarragon and chervil, mix well together, dress it in pyramid in the centre of the dish, dress a border of hard-boiled eggs around upon the top of the galantine, and finish the top with chopped aspic, the galantine may also be cut as above, and dressed plain with the salad in the centre, and garnished round with croutons of aspic.

No. 1015. Pâté de Volaille aux truffes.

Line a raised pie-mould with pâte fine (No. 1136) as directed, but you will not require so large a mould; line the pie with forcemeat (No. 120), you have previously boned a small fowl, which stuff as for galantine à la volière (No. 1032), seasoning it rather highly, but it will not require sewing up; having filled it, place it in your pie, cover with forcemeat, forming a dome, finish the pie as directed for pâté de veau, bake two hours and a half in a slow oven, take it out, cut off the lid, lay a sheet of tin upon the meat (made for that purpose), upon which place a seven pounds weight, let remain until cold, then take your pie out of the mould and serve with croutons and chopped aspic (No. 1360) upon the top.

No. 1016. Poulardes à la Mazagran.

Procure two nice poulardes, which roast in vegetables, (with which you have mingled two glasses of sherry,) as for the removes in first course, when done take them up and keep them in the vegetables till quite cold, which will keep them white; you have previously boiled, trussed, and carved a branch of laurel or palm upon a tongue (No. 991), fix an elegant Greek croustade of bread at the head of the dish; you have previously made two quarts of sauce béchamel à la crème (No. 56), very savoury and well reduced; when three parts cold dip the poulardes into it with a fork, take them out quite enveloped with the sauce and put them in the larder till cold, then dress them on your dish their tails to the croustade, their breasts protruding outwards, place the tongue between, the root facing the other end of the dish; you have prepared three atelettes with a crawfish, cockscomb, and truffle upon each, stick one upright in the croustade, and the other two in the root of the tongue, glaze the tongue nicely, and garnish round with bold croutons of aspic (No. 1360) of a very light colour.

No. 1017. Poulardes à la Banquière.

Prepare two poulardes and tongue as in the last; you have reduced a quart of good demi-glace (No. 9), with a pint of sauce tomate (No. 37) and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), keeping it stirred; when about three parts cold dip in the poulardes, place them on your dish and pour the remainder of the sauce over, let get cold, then place on the tongue and croustade with the atelettes garnished similar to the last; you have previously procured thirty fine cockscombs, thirty button mushrooms, as many small truffles, as many small quenelles (No. 120), and two throat-breads cut in as many slices; when quite cooked have ready a quart of bechamel sauce (No. 7) well reduced with half a pint of aspic, add a gill of whipped cream, and when three parts cold dip the above garniture into it, one piece at a time, and lay them on a dish in the ice, when set rather firm garnish the poulardes very tastefully with them, placing here and there the heart of a young cos lettuce.

No. 1018. Poulets Printanier à la Santa Cruz.

Procure four spring chickens nicely trussed as for boiling, lard the breast of each with cooked tongue and truffles to form a cross, tie them in oiled paper and roast, leave them in the paper till cold; you have also boiled two Russian ox tongues, split each one in halves lengthwise and trim them neatly to give them the shape of small tongues, prepare also a croustade of bread in the form of a pyramid, eight inches in height and three in width at the bottom, place it in the centre of your dish with an atelette upon the top, place a chicken resting upon the breast, tail uppermost, at each side upon a little cold mashed potatoes, and the tongue at the four corners, pour a red sauce mayonnaise (No. 1363) over the chickens but not to cover the cross, glaze the tongues lightly, and garnish round the edges with rolls of chopped aspic.

No. 1019. Poulets Printanier à la Princesse Royale.

Prepare your chickens and tongues as in the last, but do not lard them, dish them the same, make a border of plovers’ eggs round, placing little heads of cos lettuce between, sauce over the chickens with a very white mayonnaise sauce and lightly glaze the tongues.

No. 1020. Poularde à la Guillaume Tell.

Procure a fine poularde, bone it carefully, season the interior with chopped eschalots, pepper, and salt, cover with a little forcemeat (No. 120); you have previously boiled a tongue, when cold cut off the root, trim and cut it in large dice, which mix with forcemeat and stuff the poularde with it, cover over the flaps and sew the poularde in its original shape, tie it up in a napkin and braise it in good stock, to which you have added two calf’s feet, stew two hours and a half, take it up and press it lightly, when cold draw out the packthread, reduce the stock to a demi-glace but keep it as clear as possible, procure a mould large enough to contain the poularde, and an inch higher, place it on the ice, pour in a little of the stock a quarter of an inch in thickness, when it sets throw in some truffles and hard-boiled whites of eggs cut in dice, then lay in the poularde, which cover with the remainder of the stock, when set firm dip the mould in warm water and turn it out on your dish, garnish round with chopped aspic and croutons, and stick three atelettes ornamented upon the top, two slantingly at the ends, and one upright in the centre.

No. 1021. Chaud froid de Poularde.

Cut a nice capon or poularde into two fillets, two good wings, two legs, and two pieces of back, lay them in lukewarm water one hour to disgorge, wash well, then put them in a stewpan, cover with two quarts of good veal stock, add two middling-sized onions, with a clove stuck in each, a bunch of parsley, and a blade of mace, set on the fire till boiling, then set it on the corner, skim, and let simmer very gently nearly an hour; take them out, and drain them upon a cloth, then in another stewpan make a white roux (No. 7), as for white sauce, with two ounces of butter, and when partly cold add the stock to it; boil well, keeping it stirred all the time; if too thick, add a little more good stock; but it requires to be rather thickish; add a little sugar, four pats of butter, and a gill of cream; put the pieces of poularde in a deep dish, with thirty button onions, which you have previously peeled and stewed in a little white stock, pass the sauce through a tammie over, and let them remain till quite cold, dress a little salad upon a flanc dish, upon which dress the pieces pyramidically, forming small pyramids here and there with the onions, and placing a small sprig of parsley upon each, garnish with croutons of aspic (No. 1360) cut rather bold.

No. 1022. Chaud froid de Poularde à la Pembroke.

Proceed as above, adding twenty button mushrooms with the onions you have chopped, a good-sized truffle, and a piece of very red tongue, which sprinkle over each piece as you dish them up.

No. 1023. Chaud froid de Poularde en mayonnaise.

Prepare as above, dress in a bordure upon the salad, sauce over with a mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and place a large truffle, with a cockscomb upon it, at the top.

This dish may also be made with the remains of poulardes from a previous dinner, by cutting them in neat pieces and dipping them into a good bechamel sauce (No. 7), well reduced and half cold; when the sauce is set, proceed as before.

No. 1024. Filets de Poulardes à la Nesselrode.

Take the four fillets from two poulardes, as directed (No. 792), lay them in a sauté-pan with plenty of butter, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and sauté them gently over a slow fire; when done place them on a dish, with another dish upon them, till quite cold, then with a thin knife split each fillet into two; have ready a quart of good bechamel sauce (No. 7), add a pint of white stock, in which you have stewed the bones from the poulardes, reduce again to a quart, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream; stir over the fire half a minute, then pass it through a tammie; dip each fillet in the sauce, and lay them, when perfectly enveloped, upon a dish till cold; you have previously soaked and boiled two Russian pickled tongues; when cold cut eight pieces from them the size of the fillets, which glaze lightly; dress a border of eggs (hard boiled) upon a flanc dish, which tastefully ornament with small fillets of anchovies upon the top of each piece of egg, and rings of beetroot around, surround it with croutons of aspic, fill the centre with some salad nicely seasoned, dress the fillets and tongue alternately upon the top in crown, and sauce mayonnaise (No. 1361) in the centre.

No. 1025. Filets de Poulardes à la Ravigote.

Fillet three poulardes and dress them as in the last, but add two ounces of ravigote butter (No. 80) with the sauce you dip them in, dish them the same but omit the tongue, and sauce with a green mayonnaise (No. 1363).

No. 1026. Petits Canetons en aspic.

After having used the fillets for either of the preceding dishes, take off the legs with as much of the skin as possible, bone and spread them out before you, have ready some forcemeat (No. 120), to which add two chopped truffles, put a good tablespoonful upon each leg, then sew them round with packthread; when done place them in a stewpan, with two onions sliced, a little lean ham, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and bay-leaf, add rather more than a pint of stock, and stew them very gently one hour over a slow fire; when done place them in a dish with their stock, place another dish upon them and press very lightly; you have saved and half stewed the bones from the legs, with which you may easily form the heads and neck, stick them into the thicker end of the birds, form the wings and tails with the claws and tails of crawfish, in imitation of little ducklings, dress them to form a cross upon a round dish, and garnish with aspic chopped and in croutons; four will be sufficient for an entremet, and eight for a flanc; they likewise make handsome garniture for larger dishes.

No. 1027. Salade de Volaille.

Roast a poularde or large fowl in vegetables; when done and quite cold cut it into ten fine pieces, place it in a basin, with a large onion sliced, a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, toss them over occasionally, allowing them to remain an hour; you have dressed a border of hard-boiled eggs upon a thin border of butter, garnish round with half slices of cucumber, gherkins, and beetroot, and place a fillet of anchovy upon each piece of egg, fill the interior with salad cut rather fine, upon which build the pieces of fowl in pyramid, (dipping each piece into the sauce,) the best pieces at the top, and just as you send it to table sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise (No. 1363).

No. 1028. Salade de Filets de Poularde à la Brunow.

Gut the flesh from a poularde into slices as near as possible the size of half-crown pieces, cut also some slices of cucumber, which stew in white stock with a little sugar till quite tender; when done drain upon a sieve, and add them to the slices of fowl, also a few peas well boiled, if in season; put a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a pint of aspic (No. 1360) and a little sugar, boil altogether until rather thick, keeping it stirred, then add the blanquette of fowl with the vegetables, shake the stewpan round and pour the whole into a sauté-pan, which place upon the ice; when quite set dip it in warm water and turn it out on a clean cloth, cut it in middling-sized pieces of a diamond shape and dress upon a salad prepared as in the last; dress them in crown and sauce tartare (No. 38) in the centre, making the sauce white by using English mustard instead of French, and adding a spoonful of whipped cream.

No. 1029. Poulets Printaniers à la Masaniello.

Bone two spring chickens without opening them at the back, have some good veal forcemeat (No. 120) and an ox-tongue well boiled, which cut into two pieces, trim them and place one piece in each chicken, fill the remaining space up with forcemeat, tie them in a thin cloth and stew them an hour or rather more in good veal stock (No. 7), lay them on a dish breasts downwards and press them lightly, place a little aspic (No. 1360) at the bottom of a plain oval mould large enough to contain one of the chickens; when it sets lay in the chicken and cover with more aspic, dip the other chicken into a sauce béchamel à la crème (No. 56); when the sauce is about half cold and quite set place a croustade of bread (representing a fishing-boat) in the centre, with a chicken on each side; having turned out the one in the aspic, stick three atelettes in the croustade ornamented with a large quenelle de volaille, a truffle, and a cockscomb; sauce round with a very white mayonnaise sauce. The mast in the croustade must be made of pâte d’office (see plate containing the designs for croustades).

No. 1030. Moule d’Aspic à la Royale.

Cut the flesh from the breast of a poularde or large fowl into slices the size of half-crown pieces as near as possible, cut also a large truffle in slices, have about twenty very white button mushrooms, and ten dressed cockscombs, boil a quart of sauce béchamel (No. 7) with a pint of aspic, keeping it stirred until rather thick, add a little sugar and the above ragout, shake the stewpan round and pour the whole into a sauté-pan, which place upon the ice till firm, dip the pan in warm water and turn it out upon a clean cloth,—it should be about a quarter of an inch in thickness,—with an oval cutter an inch and a half long and one broad, cut it into as many pieces as possible; have ready a flat round mould with a cylinder, put a little aspic at the bottom, which decorate with whites of eggs (hard-boiled) and truffles, place it on the ice and when set dress in the fillets in crown, fill the mould with the aspic, keep it on the ice till ready, when dip the mould in warm water and turn it out upon your dish.

No. 1031. Galantine de Faisan aux truffes.

Bone two pheasants if for a flanc, one if for a cold entrée, lay it out before you and proceed exactly as for a galantine of turkey, only using the forcemeat for game (No. 123) as directed, and fillets of hare or rabbit instead of veal, braise and press the same, allowing for the difference in size, serve garnished with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in croutons.

No. 1032. Galantine de Faisans à la Volière.

Proceed as in the last, but press and garnish them as directed for galantine de dinde (No. 1010), but the claws must be from a very small lobster.

No. 1033. Pâté de Faisans aux truffes.

Bone a couple of pheasants and fill each one as for a galantine, but not too tight, they will not require sewing up; you have lined a raised pie-mould with pâte fine (No. 1136), as directed (No. 997), line the pie with forcemeat (No. 120), place one of the pheasants at the bottom, cover it with forcemeat, then put in the other which also cover with forcemeat, finishing in a dome; finish the pie as before directed, bake it four hours in a slow oven, press it till cold and serve with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in croutons upon the top; by filling the pie up with good strong stock when taken from the oven there would be no necessity for pressing it.

No. 1034. Filets de Faisans à la Prince George.

Roast three pheasants in vegetables quite white, take out the fillets, cut each one in halves to form two, making twelve, pound well the meat from the legs, and put it into a stewpan, with a quart of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of good white stock, boil till rather thick, then rub it through a tammie, pour into a stewpan, place over the fire, and stir until boiling, then add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of whipped cream, stir in quickly but do not let it boil afterwards, place it by in a basin, and when half cold dip each fillet in with a fork, let it be quite enveloped and place them by till quite cold; you have prepared a border of forcemeat as directed for ris de veau à la turque (No. 673), place it on your dish and dress the fillets in crown upon it, have ready turned and blanched a pottle of good white button mushrooms, mix them with the remainder of the sauce, whip half a pint of aspic (No. 1360) upon the ice till becoming very light and white, mix it with the sauce, which dress in the centre of your fillets and garnish round with a light border of the hearts of lettuces.

Fillets of pheasants may also be served with a sauce macédoine de légumes as directed (No. 98) but cold.

No. 1035. Chaud froid de Filets de Faisans.

Proceed with the pheasants precisely as in the last, only using a sauce gibier (No. 60) instead of the sauce béchamel, dress them in turban in the centre of your dish, pour a little more of the sauce over, and garnish with a border of hard-boiled eggs, placing a sprig of parsley between.

No. 1036. Grouse

Like pheasants make excellent galantines and pies by following the same receipts. They may also be dressed in either of the methods directed for pheasants, but requiring rather less time to cook.

No. 1037. Galantine de Grouse à la Montagnard.

Form two small grouse into galantines as directed for à la volière (No. 1032) into the shape of birds; have ready three parts cold a good sauce à la purée de grouse (No. 59), with which envelope them, leaving it upon them rather rough, sprinkle brown bread-crumbs and chopped pistachios all over, dress croutons of aspic (No. 1360) round, and garnish with a little of the heather from the mountains.

No. 1038. Salade de Grouse à la Soyer.

Make a very thin border of fresh butter upon a convenient-sized dish, upon which stand a very elevated border of hard-boiled eggs, (by cutting a piece off the bottoms when quite cold and cutting each one into four lengthwise,) fill the centre with some nice fresh salad, and ornament the eggs with fillets of anchovies, beetroot, gherkins, &c., according to taste; you have previously roasted three grouse rather underdone; when quite cold cut them into neat pieces, that is, into legs, wings, part of the backs, and each breast into six slices, then have ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped eschalots in a basin, with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the yolks of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of chopped tarragon and chervil, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and two of salt, with which mix by degrees twelve tablespoonfuls of salad oil and three of Chili vinegar; mix well together and place it upon the ice; when ready to serve whip half a pint of cream rather stiff, which add to the sauce, pour a little over the salad, upon which lay some of the worst pieces of grouse, over which put more sauce, proceeding in like manner to the top, dressing them pyramidically. When it is for the flanc of a large dinner I only use the fillets, roasting four or five grouse instead of three, and when you have dressed three parts of the pieces of grouse upon the salad, build a second row of eggs upon it, having formed a level with the pieces for that purpose, and terminate exactly as the design represents. I must observe that the salad is better adapted for gentlemen than ladies, though if less eschalot were used it might also meet their approbation.[12]

No. 1039. Perdreaux à la Downshire.

Partridges being smaller birds are mostly used for cold entrées, but four will make an excellent flanc; draw them and extract the breast-bone, have ready one pound of forcemeat of game (No. 123), with which mix six truffles cut in fillets, and thirty pieces of fat bacon the size and shape of dice; stuff the birds, sew them up, and place them in a stewpan with three onions in slices, a head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, nearly cover them with stock, simmer over a slow fire nearly an hour, leave them to get cold in the stock, drain them on a cloth, and dress on your dish in the form of a cross, with the heart of a nice cos lettuice in the centre; pass and clarify the stock they were cooked in, adding a little isinglass, reduce to demi-glace, and when nearly cold pour it over, but do not serve till quite cold, garnish round with some nice fresh water-cresses.

No. 1040. Galantine de Perdreaux à la Volière.

Proceed as directed for the pheasants (No. 1032), only using the claws and tails of large crawfish instead of lobsters as there directed, dress them with the four tails in the centre, and aspic (No. 1360) round; one hour and a half would be sufficient to stew them.

Fillets of partridges are dressed in the same manner as the fillets of pheasant (Nos. 1034 and 1035).

No. 1041. Pâté de Perdreaux.

Have a round mould about five inches in height and four in diameter, which line with pâte fine (No. 1136), which again line with forcemeat (No. 123), you have previously boned two partridges, which fill as for galantine à la volière, fold each one in a slice of bacon, lay one at the bottom, which cover with forcemeat, then the other, which also cover, finishing in a dome, cover with the paste, work up the edges, and crimp as for the pâté de veau; bake it two hours in a moderate oven, take off the cover and pour in a pint of stock in which you have stewed the bones of the partridges, and boil half an ounce of isinglass, previously passing it through a napkin; serve neatly garnished upon the top with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in croutons. It must be quite cold previous to garnishing.

No. 1042. Bécasses à la d’Orleans.

Roast four woodcocks underdone, catching their trails upon toasted bread, with two others make a purée as directed (No. 59), into which dip the four roasted ones, and let them remain till nearly cold, then take them out and sprinkle all over with chopped ham and whites of hard-boiled eggs; you have prepared a croustade in the form of a vase, which stand in the centre of your dish, cut the toast in four pieces, each the form of a diamond, dress the woodcocks round the croustade upon each piece, dress hard-boiled eggs in a border upon the croustade, and garnish with aspic jelly, whipped (No. 1360), chopped, and quite white, in the interior, and in croutons round.

Pâtés of woodcocks are excellent, they are made the same as for partridges, keeping their trails for the interior of the birds after they are boned.

Plovers and snipes may be dressed precisely as directed for the woodcocks.

No. 1043. Pâté froid de Mauviettes

Is also a very favourite dish for second course, and when well prepared stands high in the estimation of a gourmet; the following receipt is exactly as they are prepared at Pithiviers: pluck and bone six dozen of larks, take out the interior, extract the gizzard, and pound the intestines with two pounds of forcemeat (No. 123), place a little in each bird, roll them up, and envelope them in very thin slices of fat bacon; you have lined a raised pie-mould with paste as for pâté de veau (No. 999), which again line with the forcemeat, place a layer of the larks at the bottom, then a layer of forcemeat, then larks again, till quite full, and finish with a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), a thin slice of fat bacon, and three bay-leaves, cover with paste and bake in a moderate oven two hours and a half, place it by, and when half cold add a pint of good game sauce (No. 60), shake it well in; when quite cold take off the lid, and garnish with some fresh sprigs of parsley. At Pithiviers the pies are made square, and crimped from top to bottom, but the shape has nothing to do with the quality, and I consider those made in moulds look the handsomest.

Pâtés as above may be made of all small birds that are eatable.

No. 1044. Salade de Homard à l’Indienne.

Prepare a border of hard-boiled eggs as directed for salade de grouse (No. 1038), dress some nice fresh salad in the centre, then take the flesh from a very fine lobster, or two middling-sized ones, cut it in as large slices as possible, put it in a basin, and season with a little tarragon, and chervil, pepper, and salt; dress them in pyramid upon the salad, interspersing six mild Indian pickles in slices, and serving with a good white sauce mayonnaise (No. 1364) over.

No. 1045. Mayonnaise de Homard à la gelée.

Prepare a border of half hard-boiled eggs and half croutons of strong aspic (No. 1360), cut the same height as the eggs, and triangular, dress some salad in the centre as in the last, and the lobster well seasoned upon the top, and sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361).

No. 1046. Miroton de Homard à la Cardinale.

Cut the flesh of a large lobster into slices as large as possible, and nearly an equal size; reduce a pint of white sauce (No. 7) (with which you have mixed two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar) to two thirds; then dip half the pieces of lobster into it with a fork, and place them on a dish to cool, add two ounces of red lobster butter (No. 77) to the remainder of the sauce, stir it well in, and dip in the remainder of the pieces; when cold and set, dress them in crown upon salad, with a white mayonnaise in the centre.

No. 1047. Homard en Aspic.

Cut twenty slices of lobster as above, of equal sizes, dip them into the white sauce as there directed, and put them by until cold; then put a little clear aspic jelly (No. 1360) in the bottom of a flat cylinder mould, ornament it with the whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in diamonds, squares, leaves, and crescents, arranged in the form of wreaths, branches, &c.; just cover with a little more jelly, and when set lay in the slices of lobster slanting, one resting upon the other, and fill up the mould with aspic, place it on the ice, and when firm dip the mould in warm water, and turn the aspic out upon your dish; fill the centre with some finely cut salad, upon which build some more lobster, which sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), but not to run over the aspic.

No. 1048. Homard au Gratin.

Procure three small lobsters, cut them down the centre, save all the shells, and cut the flesh into small slices, put a spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping them stirred; then add a pint of white sauce, reduce one-third, keeping it stirred, add the flesh of the lobster, season with a little pepper, salt, cayenne, and essence of anchovies; stir gently over a sharp fire, and when boiling take it off, stir in the yolks of two eggs, put it into the shells, egg and bread-crumb over, place them in a warm oven ten minutes, salamander of a good colour, and serve very hot, dressed upon a napkin, garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley.

Lobsters au gratin may also be served in silver, escalope shells if handy are preferred.

No. 1049. Crabs

May be dressed in salad, like lobster, cutting the hard part into as large slices as possible, and passing the soft through a hair sieve, and mixing it with the sauce.

No. 1050. Coquilles aux Huîtres.

Procure the deep shells of twelve oysters, which well clean, butter the interior slightly, and as many bread-crumbs as will adhere to the butter; you have previously blanched and bearded four dozen of oysters, lay them on a cloth to drain, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, pass them a few minutes over the fire, stir in a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour, add a pint of oyster sauce (No. 69), reduce one third, then add your oysters, season with a little pepper, salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies, stir gently over the fire, and when quite hot stir in the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire a short time till it thickens, but do not let it boil, then fill the shells, egg and bread-crumb over, place in a hot oven ten minutes, salamander a nice colour, dress in pyramid, and garnish with fried parsley.

No. 1051. Salade de Filets de Soles.

Fillet two or three soles, then well butter a sauté-pan, lay in your fillets, which season with a little white pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and the juice of a lemon, place them over a slow fire, and when half done turn them over (they must be kept quite white), when done lay them flat upon a dish with another dish upon them till cold; cut each fillet in halves, trim them of nice shapes, and put them in a basin with a little chopped tarragon and chervil, chopped eschalots, pepper and salt; then dress a salad as directed (No. 1038), dress the fillets in crown upon the salad, and sauce over with a good mayonnaise sauce (No. 1364).

No. 1052. Filets de Soles aux Concombres.

Fillet two soles and dress them as above, cut each fillet in halves, then have sixteen pieces of cucumber the same size as the fillets, but thinner, dress them in turban alternately with the fillets upon a thin border of fresh butter, sauce over the fillets only with a sauce mayonnaise (No. 1364) in which you have added a little whipped cream, and dress a good salad cut rather fine in the centre. The remains of turbot or John Dorée, may be cut into fillets and served in either of the above methods.

Fillets of soles may also be served in aspic, or miroton à la cardinale, as directed for lobster (Nos. 1047 and 1046).

No. 1053. Truites marinées en mayonnaise.

Put three onions sliced in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, one turnip, one carrot (in slices), a head of celery (cut small), a good handful of parsley, and two bay-leaves; pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of vinegar, a blade of mace, and half a dozen peppercorns; let simmer, then add three pints of water; you have cleaned three fine freshwater trout, which put in the above marinade and let them simmer half an hour; let them get cold in the marinade, take them out, drain upon a cloth, and dress them on your dish, the head of the centre one pointing with the tails of the others; sauce over with a very white mayonnaise sauce (No. 1364) into which you have put extra chopped tarragon and chervil and a little whipped cream.

No. 1054. Darne de Saumon marinée.

Cut two good slices from the middle of a fine salmon, four inches in thickness, and dress them in a marinade, as for the trout, first tying them up; stew one hour, and leave them in the marinade to cool; when quite cold drain them on a cloth; dress on your dish, fill the centre with Montpelière butter (No. 1366), garnish with a border of eggs, and sauce round with a very white Tartare sauce (No. 38), and sprinkle a little chopped gherkins over.

No. 1055. Galantine d’Anguille.

Procure two fine eels, skin and bone them, have ready prepared some forcemeat of whiting (No. 124), lay the eel open before you and spread some of the forcemeat down the centre, upon which lay small fillets of truffle, pistachios, cooked tongue, and whiting, cover with more of the forcemeat, and sew the eel up in its original shape, cut it into two equal parts and envelope each in thin slices of fat bacon, tie in a napkin and place them in a stewpan in which you have prepared a marinade as for the trout, but using half a pint of Madeira wine instead of vinegar, stew gently half an hour or until tender, and leave it to get cold in the stock, take out and remove them from the napkin, glaze and place them on your dish side by side upon a stand of Montpellier butter (No. 1366), and a little between them to hold them together; garnish round with craw-fish and croutons of aspic (No. 1360). Six rolls of them, each three inches high, may be dressed into what we term a bastion, that is standing them up on end in a circle, joining them together with Montpellier butter, and placing the half of a hard-boiled egg cut across (to form a cap) upon each, decorated with fillets of anchovies and very green gherkins.

VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE.

Where a dish of vegetables are required for second course, if there should be two flancs contrive to let the vegetables make one of them; but if there should only be four dishes in the second course they may be dressed upon one of them, as also in larger dinners, and especially when there are a great many vegetables in season.

No. 1056. Asparagus

Is one of the most favourite vegetables we have, and is generally served plain; the large grass is preferred, although the smaller is, in my opinion, the fullest flavour for a dish; you require a hundred large ones or a hundred and a half of small, scrape and cut them of equal lengths, (about eight inches,) and tie them in bundles of fifteen; about twenty minutes before ready to serve have a gallon of water, in which you have put two ounces of salt, boiling in a stewpan, put in your grass, let boil quickly, and when tender take it up, dress in pyramid as high as possible upon a piece of toasted bread, and serve melted butter (No. 71) or sauce Hollandaise in a boat.

No. 1057. Asperges en petits Pois.

Procure a bunch of small green asparagus, or sprue, break off the green tops carefully, avoiding the white parts, cut the tops into pieces the size of large peas, boil them in half a gallon of water into which you have put an ounce of salt: when tender strain them off, but be careful they are not too much done, or they would go in purée and taste watery; drain them dry upon a sieve and put them into a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place the stewpan upon the fire, move them round gently, add four pats of butter, and when melted finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a quarter of a gill of cream; move it round over the fire, and when it thickens pour them upon your dish and dress croutons of fried bread round; or they may be served in a croustade of bread.

No. 1058. Sea-Kale.

The short thick kale is the best, trim it nicely, about sixteen heads will be sufficient for a dish, boil till tender in a gallon of water, with two ounces of salt, take them out, place them on a clean cloth to drain, and dress them pyramidically upon a piece of toasted bread; serve plain melted butter separate in a boat.

No. 1059. Céleri à la Moëlle de Bœuf.

Procure ten fine heads of celery, cut them to about seven inches in length, (the red celery is the best,) if too thick take off some of the outside sticks, wash and trim them nicely, blanch ten minutes in boiling water, drain them on a cloth, put them into a convenient-sized stewpan just covered with a good white stock, in which let them stew gently till tender, drain them, dress upon toast, place four large pieces of marrow round, (which you have boiled in water,) and sauce over with a pint of good brown sauce (No. 1), which you have reduced with half a pint of the stock the celery was stewed in, and seasoned with a little sugar.

No. 1060. Céleri à la Chetwynd.

Trim and blanch ten fine heads of red celery, as in the last, blanch also twelve middling-sized onions twenty minutes, place them in a stewpan with the celery, cover with veal stock (No. 7), and stew gently till tender, dress the celery upon toast with the onions round and sauce over with a good white bechamel sauce (No. 7) which you have reduced with half a pint of the stock the vegetables were cooked in till becoming thickish, then add half a gill of very thick cream, a little sugar, and sauce over.

No. 1061. Salsifis à la Poulette.

Salsifis although a very favourite vegetable on the continent and very plentiful in England, is seldom used, but I hope the following recipes will tend to bring it more in vogue.

Choose fifteen or twenty young ones, scrape the black skin, cut them into pieces three inches long, rub each piece with lemon and throw them into water, then put two onions, a carrot, one turnip, and a head of celery, all cut small into a stewpan, with a handful of parsley, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a little thyme, two bay-leaves, and a quarter of a pound of beef suet chopped fine, stir it over a sharp fire ten minutes, then add two ounces of flour, (stir well in,) fill up with two quarts of water, with the juice of a lemon, stir it till it boils, then put in your salsifis which stew gently till tender, take them out and lay them upon a cloth to drain, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) into another stewpan, with half a pint of white stock, stir over a sharp fire till boiling, then add twenty button mushrooms and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; season with a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and powdered sugar, put in the salsifis, let simmer gently for half an hour, (the sauce must be rather thick,) take out and dress it in two rows upon a border of mashed potatoes, finish the sauce with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, stir over the fire till it thickens but do not let it boil; sauce over and serve.

No. 1062. Salsifis à la Moëlle de Bœuf.

Prepare the salsifis as above; when very tender dress it upon your dish, have four large pieces of beef marrow (well boiled in water), sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9), garnish with croutons of fried bread in the shape of hearts, and serve with a piece of marrow upon each.

No. 1063. Fried Salsifis.

Cook the salsifis as before, let them get cold in the stock, then take them out, drain upon a cloth, and trim them all of equal sizes, then put them in a basin, with a spoonful of vinegar, four of salad oil, and a little pepper and salt, let them marinade six hours, turning over occasionally a quarter of an hour before serving, dip each piece separately in a fritter batter (No. 1285) and fry them in a stewpan of hot lard, when done lay them on a cloth and dress in pyramid upon a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.

Salsifis well cooked and tender, when cold, is very good in salad or to ornament a mayonnaise.

No. 1064. Concombres farcis en demi-glace.

Procure four very fine cucumbers, which cut into pieces three inches in length, peel them and take out the seeds with a long round cutter, then have ready some very nice forcemeat of veal (No. 120), into which you have put a little chopped basil, thyme, and laurel leaf, put a piece of bacon at each end, which tie on, place them in a stewpan, with a little stock, and stew gently three quarters of an hour or till tender, then drain them upon a cloth, trim each end, and dress in pyramid upon a border of mashed potatoes, but be careful not to break them; sauce over with a good demi-glace (No. 9) and serve; the forcemeat must not be too delicate.

No. 1065. Concombres farcis à la crème.

Proceed with the cucumbers as in the last, but sauce over with a celery sauce à la Chetwynd (No. 1060).

No. 1066. Croustade aux Concombres.

Prepare a plain croustade according to the size of your dish, and three inches in height, then have four cucumbers, which cut into pieces two inches and a half long, peel them, split each piece into three, take out the seeds and trim them neatly, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and cover with white stock, let them stew till tender, drain them upon the back of a sieve; in another stewpan have a pint of good bechamel sauce (No. 7), which reduce till rather thick, then add the cucumber and a little powdered sugar, place on the fire, and when boiling finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream: place the croustade upon your dish, pour the ragout into it, and serve.

No. 1067. Vegetable Marrows.

Are excellent when young and about the size of turkeys’ eggs; peel fifteen and boil them in half a gallon of water, into which you have put two ounces of butter and two ounces of salt, boil twenty minutes, or till quite tender, drain them upon a cloth, and dress upon a border of mashed potatoes, in the form of an oval dome; sauce over with a pint of good melted butter (No. 71), with which you have introduced a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream. All sauces for vegetables require to be rather thick, as it is impossible to drain the vegetables quite dry to serve them hot. Vegetable marrows dressed as above may also be served with a white sauce à l’Italienne (No. 31).

No. 1068. Jerusalem Artichokes.

Are very useful vegetables when judiciously employed, as my readers will perceive by many of the foregoing recipes; they are good five months in the year, from October till March, and some seasons much longer; when they become too rough they have lost their succulence, and are only fit to flavour stocks: take about thirty of the best shaped ones and as near as possible of the same size; turn them into the shape of pears, boil in salt and water, with which you have put a quarter of a pound of butter; when tender take them out, drain them upon a cloth, and dress in the form of a dome; sauce over with melted butter (No. 71), sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), sauce bechamel (No. 7), sauce ravigote (No. 44), or sauce tomate (No. 37).

No. 1069. Cauliflowers and Brocoli.

Both vegetables are very excellent and universally employed; they require great particularity in cleaning; the best way is to throw plenty of salt over them and put them in cold water till ready to cook, boil them in salt and water till tender, but not too much done or they will not hold together; the heads should not be too large, and the best are close and firm; when done dress some nice green Brussels sprouts upon a border of mashed potatoes with the cauliflowers in the centre, mix nearly half a pint of good white sauce (No. 7), with the same quantity of melted butter (No. 71), and when hot add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two spoonfuls of cream; sauce over and serve; they may also be served with a sauce à la maître d’hôtel (No. 43).

No. 1070. Chouxfleurs au Parmesan.

Boil three cauliflowers as before, and when done drain them upon a cloth, then put a pint of good white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, season with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, reduce it over a sharp fire till getting thick, add half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese and a quarter of a pound of grated Gruyer, mix well and stir in two yolks of eggs, then put a little at the bottom of your dish, dress some of the cauliflower in pieces upon it, which again cover with sauce, proceeding thus till you have formed a dome, finishing with the sauce all over, egg and bread-crumb lightly, put it in a warm oven a quarter of an hour, salamander of a light brown colour, and serve.

No. 1071. Artichokes.

Are very great favourites with most epicures, and their flavour renders them worthy of so high an appreciation.

Have six not over large but of a very good size, trim the bottoms rather close till it shows the white streak, cut also an inch from the top with a pair of scissors, and a little off the point of each leaf, have a gallon of water (into which you have put half a pound of salt,) boiling, put in the artichokes and boil one hour, or till you can pull out a leaf with facility, take them up, lay them upon a cloth to drain, upside down, dress them upon a napkin, and serve with melted butter separate in a boat; they may be boiled previously and kept in cold water till wanted, and are ready by merely dipping them in boiling water.

No. 1072. Artichokes à la Barigoule.

Trim your artichokes as above and blanch twenty minutes, place them in cold water, then scoop out the interior with the handle of a spoon and your fingers, taking out every particle from the interior, have some fat in a stewpan very hot, into which dip the tops of the artichokes till of a yellow colour, then put them back upon the cloth; you have scraped a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with four tablespoonfuls of oil, four of chopped onions and eschalots, two of chopped mushrooms, and one of chopped parsley, a little thyme, two bay-leaves, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar; pass the whole ten minutes over a moderate fire, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), boil twenty minutes, stir in two spoonfuls of bread-crumbs and set it in a cold place; when cold mix it again and put an equal proportion in each artichoke; tie a square piece of fat bacon a quarter of an inch in thickness upon each, tie them across with string and put them into a flat stewpan, with three pints of good stock, set them in a moderate oven to braise for about three quarters of an hour, or till you can take a leaf out with facility, then take them out, drain them on a cloth, take off the string and bacon, and dress them upon your dish four at the bottom and two at the top, with two spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) in each. For the amateur who does not object to the flavour of onions, dressed in the above manner they are most appreciated.

No. 1073. Artichauts à la Bordelaise.

Proceed exactly as above, but filling them with the following sauce (instead of the sauce there mentioned): peel thirty large button onions and cut them in rings, put them in a stewpan with a little oil, and fry of a light yellow colour, add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, mix well, then add eighteen stoned olives, and the fillets of four anchovies well washed, stew till all is well cooked, then season with a little pepper, sugar, and a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea, fill the artichokes, and when done serve with a little white sauce in each.

No. 1074. Artichauts à l’Italienne.

Take four good artichokes, cut them in quarters and trim them well, cutting all the green from the bottoms and taking out all the fur from the interior, put them in a stewpan of boiling water (to blanch) a quarter of an hour; then take them out, drain them upon a cloth, put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a sauté-pan with a tablespoonful of oil, and one of wine, pass them one minute over the fire, then put in the artichokes, which cover with brown sauce and a little stock, stew them gently over a moderate fire till you can pull out a leaf with facility, take them out and dress in turban upon a border of mashed potatoes, put a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms into the sauté-pan, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, season with a little sugar and salt if required, sauce over and serve.

No. 1075. Artichauts au Velouté.

Prepare the artichokes as above, and blanch them, put an ounce of butter in a sauté-pan, lay in the artichokes, which cover with a good white sauce (No. 7); place a lid upon the sauté-pan, and put them in a moderate oven till done, then take out the artichokes, which dress in turban as above; put a little milk in the sauté-pan, reduce the sauce till rather thickish, add a little sugar, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, pass through a tammie and sauce over.

No. 1074. Artichaux à la Bruxellaise.

Dress a border of artichokes as in the last, upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready a quart of very nice Brussel sprouts dressed à la maître d’hôtel (No. 1083), which dress in pyramid in the centre. This dish can only be served in the autumn season of the year, as it is only then both vegetables can be obtained.

No. 1075. Peas.

The best of all green vegetables, and the delight of millions, whilst their profusion renders them attainable by all; like the asparagus, they belong to that season of flavour, the spring of the year, but remain in season till a much later period; when young the English method of cooking them is good, because the more succulence there is in a vegetable the less zest they require to make them palatable. To describe the different sorts would be almost an endless, and to a certain extent a useless task, but the Prussian blues are, in my opinion, the very best; to plain boil them, have two quarts of fresh-shelled peas, with a sprig of young mint, about ten leaves (the greatest fault with most people is putting too much), have a gallon of water boiling upon the fire, in which you have put two ounces of salt, when boiling put in your peas, let them boil as fast as possible from ten to fifteen minutes, try whether they are tender, if so strain them through a cullender, dress them upon your dish with two pats of butter upon the top and serve; or when drained put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a good teaspoonful of powdered sugar, place over a fire, and keep tossing them until the butter is melted, dress them either plain upon your dish or in a bread croustade.

No. 1076. Pois au sucre Anglo-Français.

When you have boiled and drained two quarts of young peas, put them in a stewpan with six young green onions in a bunch, six spoonfuls of white sauce, a little pepper and salt, and two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, let simmer ten minutes, then stir in a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, do not let them boil, but when the sauce becomes thickish and hangs to the peas turn them out upon your dish and serve, previously taking out the onions.

No. 1077. Pois au sucre à la Française.

The manner of dressing peas directed in the last keeps them very green, which the French style does not, unless very young, but to balance, their flavour is superior; and although the eye must be pleased to a certain extent, my principal business is with the palate.

Put two quarts of young peas in a good-sized stewpan with six young onions, a bunch of parsley, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; just cover the peas with cold water and rub them well together with the hands, pour off all the water, add a good bunch of parsley, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon a sharp fire, moving them round very often, if young twenty minutes is quite sufficient, but when tender they are done (if they should become too dry add a very little water), when done take out the onions and the bunch of parsley; you have previously mixed a tablespoonful of flour with two ounces of fresh butter, mix well with the peas, stir them over the fire till they become thickish, then add a liaison of two yolks of eggs (mixed with half a pint of milk or cream), season a little more if required, stir the liaison in quickly, do not let it boil, and when it thickens they are ready to serve, they must not, however, be too thick or too thin.

No. 1078. French Beans.

Cut enough young beans into strips to make a good flanc dish; have a stewpan with a gallon of water in which you have put a quarter of a pound of salt, when boiling put in the beans, which boil very fast till tender; when done strain them off, lay a bed of them upon your dish, upon which lay two pats of butter, sprinkle them over with pepper and salt, then more beans, proceeding thus till you have formed a pyramid, serve very hot.

No. 1079. Haricots verts sauté au buerre.

When boiled as above, put them in a stewpan with six ounces of fresh butter, season with a little chopped parsley, sugar, pepper, and salt; toss them over a sharp fire, and when quite hot dress them in pyramid.

No. 1080. Haricots verts aux fines herbes.

Boil the beans as before, when boiled put two spoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them a few minutes over the fire, keeping them quite white, add a spoonful of flour (stir well in) and a pint of good white stock, boil until it adheres to the back of a spoon; then add your beans, toss them well together, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and sugar, finish with six pats of butter, and four spoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), dress them as high as possible upon the dish, or in a croustade of bread.

No. 1081. Haricots verts à la Poulette.

Boil the beans as before, when done drain them quite dry, put them into a stewpan with three parts of a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 7), six spoonfuls of stock, pepper, salt, sugar, a bunch of green onions, and parsley; stew gently ten minutes, take out the bunch, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, stir in quickly, and when it begins to thicken serve as in the last.

No. 1082. Brussels Sprouts sauté au beurre.

The small firm ones are the best; boil a sufficient quantity in salt and water about twenty minutes, or till tender, as directed for the beans; when done put them in a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and the juice of a lemon, when quite hot dress them as high as possible upon your dish.

No. 1083. Brussels Sprouts à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Boil a sufficient quantity of sprouts as before, and dress them upon your dish in pyramid; then put a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, let boil, and whilst boiling add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), stir it in quickly and sauce over, or sauce them in layers as you dress them up.

No. 1084. Choux de Bruxelles à la Crème en turban de Concombres.

Make a turban of cucumbers, cut and dressed as directed (No. 103), form the turban upon a border of mashed potatoes; boil sufficient Brussel sprouts, which dress in pyramid, sauce over the cucumbers with a good sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), and over the sprouts with a good sauce béchamel (No. 7), but not too thick, so that the Brussel sprouts may show through it; they may likewise be dressed in a border of Jerusalem artichokes, which gives a great variety to those favourite vegetables; peas and French beans may also be dressed in a turban of the above description.

No. 1087. Spinach

Is a very wholesome and digestible vegetable, excellent for invalids, but still more so for those in good health, because an invalid can only have it plain-dressed, whilst a person in health can enjoy it in any of the tasty ways in which it is dressed. Pick and wash it very clean in three or four waters, for as nothing is worse than spinach when gritty, so likewise there is nothing more troublesome to get quite clean, from its growing so near the earth; boil in plenty of salt and water about a quarter of an hour, then drain it through a sieve, and squeeze quite dry with a cloth, chop very fine (which I consider is better than passing through a wire sieve), put it in a stewpan with half a pound of fresh butter, pepper, salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, stir five minutes over a sharp fire, pour it out upon your dish, and serve with croutons of fried bread round; the above proportion is for half a sieve.

No. 1088. Epinards au jus.

Proceed exactly as above, adding half a tablespoonful of flour, and when well mixed half a pint of good demi-glace (No. 9), glaze the croutons which you garnish with and serve.

No. 1089. Epinards à la Française.

When your spinach is well chopped put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, stir over the fire till quite hot, then add a tablespoonful of flour; season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, mix well, then add half a pint of good stock, stir ten minutes over the fire, add a quarter of a pound more butter, after taking it from the fire; when melted pour it out upon your dish and serve as before. The old system was to make a roux, which frequently got rather overdone, and gave the spinach more the flavour of sauce, thus destroying the aroma; but the flour, if added proportionably, gives no flavour, and slightly thickens.

No. 1090. Epinards au sucre.

Prepare the spinach as before and put it into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter and a little pepper and salt; when quite hot add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of milk, boil a few minutes, and when ready to serve stir in a quarter of a pound of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, serve as before.

No. 1091. Endive au jus.

In France this vegetable (which is mostly used in England for salads) is as popular for entrées and entremets as spinach, its bitterness rendering it very wholesome. Procure twelve heads, pick off all the green leaves, wash each head in two or three waters, and boil them in salt and water till tender, then put them in a basin of cold water, press every one; cut off the roots and chop the remainder fine, but not quite so fine as spinach, put it in a stewpan, place over the fire, and stir until becoming rather dry; then add half a pint of good brown sauce, and a piece of veal glaze the size of a walnut, season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and dress in a croustade of bread, or within a border of croutons of fried bread, which you have stuck upright upon your dish with a stiffish paste made from whites of eggs and flour; put the dish in the oven till the paste is set, and if desired, serve poached eggs upon the top.

No. 1092. Sorrel.

Is more used as a sauce for entrées than as an entremet, the spring of the year is the only time it can be used for second course; pick and well wash a sufficient quantity of sorrel, drain and put it into a stewpan without any water, stir over the fire till it is melted, then lay it upon the back of a hair sieve, and with a wooden spoon rub it through into a dish; then put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a spoonful of flour, mix well, season with a little pepper and salt, and half a pint of good stock, let boil; then take it from the fire and stir in four new-laid eggs separately, stirring a minute over the fire after each, then add three pats of butter, and serve as in the last, or in a deep silver dish, with eight poached eggs upon the top, or use for entrées if required.

No. 1091. Laitue braisée à la Pensionnaire.

Procure twenty fine young cabbage-lettuces, pick off some of the outside leaves, wash the lettuces well, and blanch them in plenty of water till tender, then throw them into cold water, press in a cloth; tie up, put them in a stewpan with a little good stock, and braise in a moderate oven or over a moderate fire half an hour, then take them out and drain them upon a cloth, turn half the point of the green leaf over to give an oval shape, arrange them in a sauté-pan, cover with a good demi-glace (No. 9), and put them into the oven; poach twelve eggs, then make a border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, upon which dress the eggs and lettuces alternately, showing a little of the white, sauce over with a good sauce fines herbes (No. 26) and serve.

No. 1094. Laitues farcis.

Prepare twenty fine lettuces, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water, throw them in cold water, press them in a cloth, then take out some of the interior, and fill with some forcemeat (No. 120) with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and mushrooms; tie them up and braise as above three quarters of an hour, take them up, drain, and serve with a sauce demi-glace (No. 9) over them.

No. 1095. Fèves de Marais.

When young are very delicate, take two quarts directly they are shelled and boil them nearly ten minutes in salt and water, try if done, drain them upon a sieve, then put them in a stewpan, pour half a pint of good sauce maître d’hôtel (No. 43) over, and add a little chopped tarragon and powdered sugar, and serve. They are also very good plain boiled, with a few pats of butter laid over them.

No. 1096. White Haricots Beans.

There is perhaps no white vegetable more in vogue in France than this, but although so well appreciated there and eaten by many English gourmets, they never think of having them dressed at home; it is true that the haricot in France is what the potato is in England, when in their prime and just taken from their shells, there are a great many epicures who would not dine without them. The reason I so strongly recommend them is because I have seen thousands of them in noblemen’s gardens, many of which are quite spoiled, and some dried for the winter season, when they might be dressed and eaten in their prime; I think, however, that when my readers know the simplicity of dressing them, and their moderate expense, they will at least give them a trial. They are very numerous about the month of September, but when old and dry I do not recommend them, they being very hard of digestion, and only fit to be used dry as directed in other parts of this work.

Have one quart of them fresh shelled, have also two quarts of water boiling, in which you have put two ounces of butter and a little salt, put in your beans and boil them about half an hour, or till tender, drain quite dry upon a sieve, then put them in another stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, toss them a few minutes over the fire, and when very hot turn them out upon your dish and serve.

No. 1097. Haricots blancs à la Brétonne.

Boil the beans as in the last, then put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, stir over the fire till they become rather yellowish, then add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; boil a few minutes, then add the beans, drain quite dry, season rather high, and when quite hot pour them upon your dish and serve.

No. 1098. Haricots blancs à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Boil the beans as before, and when done drain quite dry and put them into a stewpan with six ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79); toss them over, add a little more seasoning if required, and serve when quite hot. They may also be served plain boiled with a little butter upon them.

No. 1099. Tomates au gratin.

Take ten fine tomatas not too ripe, cut a little from the top of each, press out the pips and juice, but do not break the skins or press away any of the flesh; fill the interior with a sauce as directed for artichauts à la barigoule (No. 1072), stand them in a sauté-pan, egg and bread-crumb all over, stand them in a hot oven a quarter of an hour, salamander of a good colour, and dress them pyramidically upon your dish.

No. 1100. Tomates à la Piémontaise.

Proceed as above, but using a little garlic (scraped) in the sauce, likewise put a little salad-oil in the sauté-pan which serve under them.

No. 1101. Mushrooms plain broiled.

Choose them rather large and black underneath, peel the skin from the top, and broil over a sharp fire, seasoning with pepper and salt; when done, place a small piece of butter upon each and serve; ten minutes is sufficient time to broil good-sized ones.

No. 1102. Mushrooms farcis.

Procure twelve middling-sized mushrooms, scoop out part of the interior, make a good sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) very thick, to which add the interior of the mushrooms, and a few bread-crumbs; fill your mushrooms, egg and bread-crumb over, place them in a sauté-pan in the oven twenty minutes, salamander a light colour and serve on a napkin.

No. 1103. Croute aux champignons.

Procure a very fresh pottle of white mushrooms, which peel and trim, pass a few chopped onions in a stewpan with a small piece of butter (do not let them get brown), add a pint of sauce béchamel (No. 7); when boiling put in the mushrooms (raw), let simmer half an hour, season with a little salt, pepper, and sugar, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, move round over the fire till it thickens, dress them upon your dish in the crust of a French roll, scooped out and fried for that purpose, and sauce over.

No. 1104. Young Carrots in their glaze.

Scrape forty young carrots, which put into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of sugar, four young onions, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf; just cover with a good white stock and stew till the carrots are tender, then take them out and dress in the form of a dome by sticking them into mashed potatoes; strain the stock they were stewed in through a napkin into a stewpan, add to it half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two pats of butter, sauce all over and serve.

No. 1105. Young Turnips in their glaze.

Proceed exactly as for the carrots, only using white sauce instead of brown, and finishing with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a spoonful of cream.

No. 1106. Oignons Printaniers au Sirop dorée.

Peel about forty spring onions, each about the size of a walnut, put them into a stewpan, with one ounce of butter and one of powdered sugar, toss them occasionally over the fire, (but be careful not to break the outer skin,) until covered with a light glaze; cover with a white stock and stew very gently till quite done, drain them upon a cloth, dress neatly upon a border of mashed potatoes, reduce and skim the stock till nearly a glaze, add two pats of butter, sauce over and serve.

No. 1107. Macédoine de Légumes Printanières.

Stew ten onions, ten carrots, and ten turnips, as directed in the preceding articles, dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes in three separate rows, have ready a white macédoine de légumes (No. 98), in which you have introduced some peas and asparagus heads nicely blanched, which dress in the centre as high as possible, and sauce over the vegetables with their stock reduced to a thin glaze.

No. 1108. Pommes de Terre a la Maître d’Hôtel.

For dressing in sauce there is no potato to equal the French red kidney potato, which will keep as it is cut, whilst a round mealy potato would crumble to pieces, but being rather difficult to procure obtain some waxy kidney potatoes, which boil and stand by to get cold, then peel and cut them in slices, which put in a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, and about half a pint of stock, set them upon the fire, let them boil two or three minutes, then add (if a sufficient quantity for a flanc dish) three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, keep shaking the stewpan round over the fire till the butter is melted, it will thus form its own sauce, finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon, turn out upon your dish and serve. The potatoes require to be cut in slices the size of a halfpenny, but double the thickness; if not able to obtain the proper potatoes use melted butter instead of stock to boil them in, or having no consistence they would form a purée.

No. 1109. Pommes de Terre sautées au beurre.

Cut your potatoes after boiling them as above, put half a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, let it melt, then put in the potatoes, fry a light yellow colour, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; dress them upon a napkin and serve.

No. 1110. Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.

Cut your potatoes as above, then put three quarters of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, with thirty button onions cut in rings, place them upon the fire and when becoming yellowish put in your potatoes, season with chopped parsley, salt, lemon-juice, and a good pinch of black pepper; when rather yellow and quite hot, serve.

No. 1111. Lentilles

Are only used in the winter, they are dried; put one quart of them in warm water, and let them soak two hours, then put them in a stewpan, with three quarts of water, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt, let them simmer two hours, but they may require either more or less time, as that depends entirely upon the quality, there being two sorts, the smaller ones being the best. This perhaps is the only dish of vegetables that we have inherited from the ancients. Century after century have they been in vogue; they are mentioned in Scripture, and several of our great masters have immortalized that ancient dish in some of their most celebrated pictures; although not much in vogue in England, in France and upon the continent they are much used, especially in Lent. When boiled tender drain them upon a sieve, put them into a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and a quarter of a pound of butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour; keep tossing them over upon a sharp fire, and when quite hot dress in a croustade or within a border of mashed potatoes, as they would not look well dressed flat.

No. 1112. Lentilles à la Comte au riz.

Cook your lentils as above, then put four pats of butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, pass them a few minutes over the fire, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well and moisten with a little of the liquor from the lentils, boil two minutes keeping it stirred, then add your lentils and a little chopped parsley, boil altogether and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir in quickly and when it thickens serve as in the last.

No. 1113. Truffles.

Périgord is the only place renowned throughout the world as the favourite soil for this recherché vegetable, and our celebrated diplomatist, Talleyrand de Périgord, was indeed a worthy owner, for he was not only a great diplomatist but likewise a great gourmet. Having an interview with any distinguished personage upon any question of political importance, after patiently hearing, his usual reply was, I will consider of it after dinner; perhaps your excellency will favour me with a call to-morrow morning;—and ringing the bell often call for his bill of fare and order some of his most favourite dishes. But in eulogizing Talleyrand and the produce of his estate I must not forget to mention that the truffles of Piedmont though partly white are very excellent, likewise in Burgundy, and many very good ones are now found in the southern counties of England, especially in Hampshire, but none are equal to those from Périgord. The white are dressed the same as the black.

No. 1114. Truffes au vin de Champagne.

Soak twelve large truffles in lukewarm water two hours, then with a rather hard scrubbing-brush clean them well in two or three waters, picking the dirt from the eyes with a small pointed knife, when thoroughly clean cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of fat bacon, one carrot, one turnip, two onions, (cut in slices,) a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, and one blade of mace, put in the truffles, which half cover with some good white stock, let simmer half an hour, then add half a pint of champagne, simmer another half hour, but be sure the cover of the stewpan fits tight, take off the stewpan and surround it with ice with a weight upon the cover; when quite cold drain and serve upon a napkin. None but the black truffles ought to be dressed in the above manner. I generally serve their liquor, which is excellent, in a sauce-boat with them. Season a little more if required.

No. 1115. Croute aux Truffes.

Wash them as in the last and peel lightly with a knife, cut them into thin slices, put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, then your truffles, which season rather highly with pepper, salt, and two glasses of sherry, set them over a slow fire, turning them over occasionally; when tender and becoming glazy add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), shake all round together over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar, and serve them over four crusts, thus: cut two French rolls in halves lengthwise, scoop out the crumb, butter the crusts and broil them, glaze, lay them upon your dish and pour the truffles over.

No. 1116. Truffes en croustade à l’Italienne.

Cut and fry a very pretty croustade of bread, dress it upon your dish, sauté your truffles as in the last, pour them into the croustade and sauce over with a white Italienne sauce (No. 31).

No. 1117. Truffes demi Piémontaise.

Procure some truffles as large as possible, wash and peel as before, cut them in slices and put them into a sauté-pan, with six tablespoonfuls of salad oil, fry very gently, add two pieces of bruised garlic, a glass of sherry, and six spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), mix altogether well, boil gently, add a little sugar and juice of lemon, and serve them in your dish upon a piece of toasted bread.

No. 1118. Truffes à la Dino.

If you should have some of the truffes au vin de champagne left from a previous dinner, scoop out the interior so as to leave them quite shells, chop what you have taken from them rather coarse, with a few mushrooms, mix them with a quarter of a pound of forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), season well, and fill each truffle with it, egg them all over and cover with some chopped truffles, braise them slowly in some good stock for one hour, and serve with a sauce à la purée de truffes (No. 53) under them.

No. 1119. Omelette aux fines herbes.

Break eight eggs in a stewpan, to which add a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, half ditto of salt, a pinch of pepper, and three good tablespoonfuls of cream, beat them well together, then put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan, stand it over a sharp fire, and as soon as the butter is hot pour in the eggs, stir them round quickly with a spoon until delicately set, then shake the pan round, leave it a moment to colour the omelette, hold the pan in a slanting position, just tap it upon the stove to bring the omelette to a proper shape, and roll the flap over with a spoon, turn it upon your dish, glaze lightly, and serve with a quarter of a pint of good demi-glace (No. 9) round; omelettes must not be too much done, and must be served as soon as done.

No. 1120. Omelette au Jambon.

Break eight eggs, season, beat and fry as above, but adding two ounces of lean cooked ham, minced and chopped with the eggs, and using but half the quantity of salt, glaze and sauce round precisely as above.

No. 1121. Omelette aux Truffes.

Make an omelette as for fines herbes, with the addition of two preserved truffles chopped very fine, have also three middling-sized truffles cut in slices, reduce half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) one third, add a little sugar and the truffles, boil three minutes, have the omelette fried in the pan, and when just ready to turn out upon the dish, put the truffles in the centre, with some of the sauce, turn the flap over with a spoon, turn on to your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the sauce round.

No. 1122. Omelette aux Champignons.

Proceed exactly as for the last, merely substituting mushrooms for the truffles.

No. 1123. Omelette aux Olives.

Boil half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, reduce it one third, then add twelve stoned olives, and a little sugar; make an omelette as for fines herbes, put the olives in the interior, glaze, and sauce round.

No. 1124. Omelette à la Jardinière.

Prepare rather more than half a pint of sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), have it hot in a stewpan, then make an omelette as before, and when ready to turn upon your dish put some of the sauce in the centre; glaze the omelette, pour the remainder of the sauce round, and serve.

No. 1125. Omelette aux Huîtres.

Put half a pint of good oyster sauce (No. 69) in a stewpan, let it be well seasoned, reduce it one third, add twelve or sixteen blanched oysters, let boil up, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream; do not let it boil; when it thickens have an omelette as in the last; pour the sauce over, glaze, and serve.

No. 1126. Omelette aux filets de Soles.

Put half a pint of good thick oyster sauce in a stewpan upon the fire; you have previously filleted a middling-sized sole, cut each fillet into six or eight small pieces, and when the sauce boils throw them in, boil three minutes, finish the sauce with a liaison, and proceed as in the last.

No. 1127. Omelettes aux Moules.

Proceed exactly as for omelette aux huîtres, but using muscles and sauce (see No. 70) instead of oysters.

No. 1128. Omelette de Homard.

Make about half a pint of nice red lobster sauce (No. 68), into which put the flesh of a small lobster cut in dice; when hot have ready an omelette as before, put some of the sauce in the interior, turn out upon your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the sauce round.

No. 1129. Omelette au Sucre.

Break eight eggs into a stewpan, into which put a teaspoonful of sugar and four tablespoonfuls of cream; put two ounces of butter in an omelette-pan when quite hot, but not discoloured, pour in the eggs, and proceed as for the omelette aux fines herbes (No. 1119), turn out upon your dish, shake some powdered sugar over, salamander a nice colour, and serve.

No. 1130. Omelette au Confiture.

Make an omelette precisely as in the last, and just before turning it upon your dish put two or three spoonfuls of jam or marmalade in the centre, sugar over, salamander, and serve.

No. 1131. Omelette au Rhum.

The same as the last, but the moment of going to table pour three glasses of rum round and set it on fire.

Sweet omelettes may also be served with apricots passed in sugar or rhubarb, as directed in Nos. 1142, 1184; for the remainder of entremets of eggs, see Kitchen at Home.

ENTREMETS.

Observations upon Pastry.

Although the art of making pastry is very nearly as old as the world, having been the delight of the ancients, and of the sensual inhabitants of Asia, it is only within the last twenty years that it has attained any degree of perfection, which is partly due to the talent and intelligence of my illustrious compatriot and confrère, Careme, who has left little or no room for innovation in that vast field of culinary delight; but I shall endeavour as much as possible to simplify the present excellent system, and introduce as much novelty as I can into that department, which is considered the greatest ornament of the second course; I must here likewise observe that as ages change so also do the fashions. Fifteen years ago large ornamental pieces, (or pièces montées,) were very much in vogue, but at the present time I know many epicures that would object to sit down before those once favorite monuments, or colossal sugar ornaments, the modern table embellishments having very properly fallen into the hands of the silversmith. Simplicity, the mother of elegance, being now the order of the day.

Of different sorts of Paste.

The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups and sauces, and must be very properly first described, particularly as it is here to which I must refer my readers for paste even used for the hors-d’œuvres and entrées; to succeed you must be particular in your proportions, and very careful in the mixing, for although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken, so will the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it only with the making of the paste that pains must be taken, but likewise with the baking, for as paste badly made would not improve in baking, neither will paste, however well made, be good if badly baked; should the oven be too hot the paste would become set and burn before it was done; and, again, if too cold it would give the paste a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can be readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the habit of using it) will give it a clear brilliant appearance.

For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the oven is hot by placing your hand about half way in, and hold it there about a quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that time without inconvenience it would not be hot enough, but if you cannot judge of the heat, the safest method would be, try a piece of the paste previous to baking the whole; I apply these few observations to all my readers, but particularly to the uninstructed, as a person of continual practice cannot fail to be aware of the truth of them.

No. 1132. Puff Paste.

Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it with cold water (iced in summer, if convenient) into a softish flexible paste, with the right hand dry it off a little with flour until you have well cleared the paste from the slab, but do not work it more than you can possibly help, let remain two minutes upon the slab; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency as the paste, upon which place it; press it out with the hand, then fold the paste in three so as to hide the butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, thus making it about two feet in length, fold over one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square, place it with the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice or in some cool place (but in summer it would be almost impossible to make this paste well without ice) for half an hour, then roll twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thickness (according to what you intend making) directed in the following receipts. When I state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of cakes may be made from this paste, I am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity of paying every attention to its fabrication, as it will repay for the study and trouble.

No. 1133. Puff Paste with Beef Suet.

Where you cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the following is an excellent substitute: skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening with a little oil, until becoming as it were one piece, and about the consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in the last using it instead of butter.

No. 1134. Half Puff Paste.

Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab with two ounces of butter, rub well together with the hands, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon; mix with water as before, then roll it out thin and lay half a pound of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into thin sheets over, fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay it in a cold place a quarter of an hour, give another roll and it is ready for use where required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts, for which it is well adapted.

No. 1135.[13] Pâte à dresser.

Put three pounds of the best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt, and the yolks of six eggs; the butter must not be too firm, add half a pint of water, squeeze all well together with your hand, mixing the flour in by degrees, tearing well to pieces with the right hand, holding it with the left until it forms a smooth but stiffish paste, but if so stiff that you cannot work it without cracking, press out flat with your hand, sprinkle water upon it, fold over, press out again, proceeding in like manner until you have obtained the consistency required; you must also be careful not to make it too soft, as in either case you would not be able to use it. This paste must not be too much worked after it is mixed or it would become greasy; more care must be exercised in summer than in winter in this respect, it is used for raised pies either hot or cold.

No. 1136. Pâte fine or Pâte à foncer.

Put three pounds of best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, six eggs, and sufficient water to form it into a rather stiffish paste (it will require about half a pint), mix well together, drawing in the flour by degrees; when well mixed, roll out four times as for puff paste, let remain half an hour and it is ready for use where directed.

No. 1137. Pâte d’Office or Confectioner’s Paste.

Weigh one pound and a half of flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put one pound of sifted sugar, mix it well with twelve eggs into a stiffish paste, having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs, work it well, it is then ready for use.

This paste was very much used when pièces montées were so much in vogue, but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon quite a new principle, and very much simplified; this paste, with the above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too soft more flour, the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be made.

No. 1138. Pâte d’Amande.

Blanch a pound of almonds, put one fourth of them into a mortar, pound well, moistening with a little water to prevent them oiling; when pounded to a paste take it out, add another fourth, and proceed in like manner till they are all done, then rub them through a hair sieve and put them into a preserving pan with one pound and a half of sifted sugar, set over a slow but equal fire, keep stirring for about five-and-twenty minutes, clearing it from the sides of the pan, press with your finger and if it feels tough take it out and put in the mortar with the eighth of an ounce of gum tragacanth, soaked and squeezed through a napkin; add the juice of a lemon, and pound well together till quite cold, it is then ready for use, but if not used directly roll it up in a ball and place it upon a plate under a basin to keep moist, it will keep for weeks if moist. Of this paste you can form stands, or convert it into any ornament your fancy may direct. Low stands are the best for entremets, being much better than the old-fashioned ones, that were made eight or ten inches in height, and when a jelly or cream served upon it was cut even by the most experienced person as soon as the first spoonful was taken the remainder was often seen dancing upon the table, to the horror of all persons of good taste. For myself I never use anything of the description, except for cold luncheon or supper, and even then of the most simple construction.

No. 1139. Pastillage or Gum Paste.

Put two ounces of gum tragacanth into a small basin, pour a quart of filtered water over it, and cover the basin with a sheet of paper to keep it free from dust; let soak twenty-four hours, then pour off the water and place the gum in a strong cloth, through which squeeze it on to a plate, not leaving a particle in the cloth; then place it upon your pastry slab, work it round with your hand until as white as cream, have an equal quantity of starch-powder, and powdered sugar, which you have passed through a silk sieve, work it in by degrees, keeping it well worked with the hand until it becomes a stiffish paste, firm enough to roll and cut into any shape required. It may be used instead of pâté d’amande.

No. 1140. Vol-au-Vents

Of all things in pastry require the most care and precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good pastrycooks, although many variations in working puff paste, all others are of a secondary importance. Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) giving it only six rolls and a half instead of seven, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either round or oval, and according to the size of your dish, then with a sharp-pointed knife cut it out from the paste, holding the knife with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark the edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a baking sheet, which you have sprinkled with water; egg over the top, then dip the point of the knife into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot oven, if getting too much colour cover over with a sheet of paper, do not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set cut off the lid and empty it with a knife; if for first course it is ready, but if for second, sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salamander. Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for entrées will take about half an hour to bake, and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a light gold colour.

No. 1141. Vol-au-vent de Pêches.

Put three quarters of a pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup; then have twelve peaches not quite ripe, which cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, take them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like manner, six at a time; when all done pour what liquor runs from them again into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through a tammie into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave until ready to serve, dress the peaches in your vol-au-vent with the syrup over, served as a compote with small pastry around it; in stewing the fruit, be careful that it does not catch in the least, a round-bottomed pan or regular sugar-pan is the best to use for this purpose, but if not convenient a common stewpan may be used.

No. 1142. Vol-au-vent d’Abricots.

Cut twelve apricots, not quite ripe, in halves, break their stones and blanch their kernels, which with the apricots put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar broken into small pieces, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry; stew them ten minutes over a quick fire, moving them round occasionally, then pour them into a basin, which stand upon the ice, when quite cold fill your vol-au-vent and serve; should the apricots be quite ripe, proceed as directed for the peaches, but leaving their skins on.

No. 1143. Vol-au-vent of Greengages.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using twenty or twenty-four greengages instead of the apricots.

No. 1144. Vol-au-vent de Cerises.

Pick and stone four pounds of cherries, which put into a pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, stew them about twenty minutes over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill your vol-au-vent and serve. Should the syrup be too thick, reduce it until thick enough to envelop the fruit.

No. 1145. Vol-au-vent de Poires.

Take twelve middling-sized ripe pears, which cut in halves, peel them neatly, and take out the cores; throw them into a pan, in which you have put the juice of two lemons, and the thin rind of one cut in thin strips and three quarters of a pound of sugar broken small; pass them over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally till tender, put them upon the ice to get cold; when ready, fill your vol-au-vent, and serve.

No. 1146. Vol-au-vent de Pommes.

Procure twenty small golden pippins, peel them neatly, and take out the cores with a long round vegetable cutter; rub them over with lemon, and stew till tender in syrup made from three quarters of a pound of sugar as for the peaches (No. 1141); when cold dress them as high as possible in a vol-au-vent, and when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.

No. 1147. Vol-au-vent d’Oranges.

Take ten fine oranges, cut them in halves, peel them, but not to lose their shapes, have a rather thicker syrup than usual, simmer the oranges five minutes, ten at a time, lay them upon a dish, reduce the syrup, and when cold dress in pyramid in a vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup over.

No. 1148. Gateau de Millefeuille à la Moderne.

Make a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, roll out to the thickness of two penny-pieces, from which cut ten round pieces, each about five inches in diameter, sprinkle water over two baking-sheets, upon which lay them, wet lightly with water, and sprinkle a little rough sugar over them, but not too coarse; bake very crisp in a moderate oven, keeping them as white as possible; when baked lay one upon your dish, which cover with apricot marmalade; then another, which cover with orange marmelade; then another, which cover with currant jelly, proceeding thus to the top; when finished mask the whole over with apricot marmalade, sprinkling plenty of very finely chopped pistachios round, and decorate the top with what dessert fruits you have in season, cherries, strawberries, or raisins, dressed in pyramid.

No. 1149. Turban à la Crème aux Macarons amers.

Give half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) ten rolls, and from it cut eight round pieces of the same size as in the last; then with the same cutter cut three pieces out of each in the form of middling-sized leaves, wet lightly upon the top, and dip them into some coarse sugar (pounded and sifted through a coarse wire sieve), place them upon a wet baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven as white as possible; then have ready a round board a quarter of an inch thick, and, according to the size of your dish, made of pâte d’office (No. 1137) and baked in a moderate oven; boil also half a pound of sugar au cassé (No. 1379), dip the ends of the pieces of pastry singly into it, and build them in crown upon the rim of your board, one row surmounted by another, dressed the reverse way; make a meringue mixture with two whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which lay in fillets, with a paper cornet upon the top; sprinkle over with some very green chopped pistachios, and set in a warm place to dry, but not any longer than necessary; whip a pint of good double cream very stiff, with which mix a little sugar, a quarter of a pound of crushed ratafias, and a glass of good noyeau; put the cream in the turban when ready to serve.

No. 1150. Puit de Fruit aux Blanches Couronnes.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) give it nine rolls, from it cut eight round pieces half an inch in thickness, then with a cutter, four sizes smaller, cut a piece from the centre of each, so as to form rings; place them upon a baking-sheet, wet the tops lightly, and sprinkle a little coarse sugar over; bake them in a moderate oven as white as possible, dress one upon the bottom of your dish, cover it with a sweetmeat of some description, and proceed in like manner to the top; fill with any of the fruits as described for the vol-au-vents, have a little cream whipped very stiff lay it in piping with a paper cornet, between each ring, and garnish the top tastefully with fillets of red currant jelly or green angelica.

No. 1151. Gateau de Pithiviers.

Blanch and pound well half a pound of almonds, moistening them with a little white of egg to keep them from oiling; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, beat well together till it becomes smooth and creamy, then add the yolks of four eggs; beat two minutes longer, add the pounded almonds, with two ounces of crushed ratafias, and half a gill of whipped cream; you have previously made half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), divide it nearly in halves, having one piece larger than the other, mould them gently into two balls, roll out the smallest to the thickness of a penny, keeping it quite round, lay it upon a baking-sheet, put the above mixture in the centre, and spread it over, leaving the space of half an inch from the edge all round, roll out the other piece of paste rather larger and thicker than the former, wet the first sheet round the edges with a paste-brush, and cover the other over, closing it carefully, trim and notch round, egg over the top, and with the back of your knife sketch some design upon it; bake three quarters of an hour in a warm oven, but when the paste is sufficiently coloured, cover with a sheet of paper; when done sift a little sugar over, and glaze with the salamander.

The original cake is baked quite white by using water instead of eggs, and throwing sugar over; my objection to which is, that many people in this country, from its appearance, fancy it is not sufficiently baked, and must be indigestible; it may, however, be baked either way, according to fancy.

No. 1152. Tourte d’Entremet à la Crème.

Make a piece of paste thus: place six ounces of flour upon your slab, with three ounces of butter, rub well together, make a hole in the centre, in which put one egg, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a very little water, mix well together, then mix the whole into a stiffish paste; roll it out of the size and shape you want your tourte, and place it upon a baking-sheet, then have ready a pound of puff paste, roll it to about three quarters of an inch in thickness, cut out a piece exactly of the same size and shape as the other, cut out the centre, so as to leave a band of about an inch in breadth, wet the piece of paste upon the baking-sheet, and place the band upon it at the rim, pressing down lightly; egg it upon the top, but do not let it touch the side; mark round with the back of your knife every quarter of an inch, and fill the interior with frangipane (No. 1295), bake about half an hour in a warm oven, and serve when cold.

Should you require the tourte for a flanc instead of an entremet, you must roll the paste oval instead of round, and make a long band of puff paste, which lay round the rim, carefully joining it at each end, by cutting one end slantwise under, and the other over, making it of the same thickness; egg the band upon the top, but do not let it run over the edges previous to baking.

No. 1153. Tourte d’Entremet à la Marmelade de Pommes.

Prepare a sheet of paste upon a baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apple marmalade (No. 1389) spread it within an inch and a half of the edges all round, roll out a piece of the trimmings of puff paste very thin, from which cut about forty narrow bands, wet the edges of the paste, and string the bands tastefully over the marmalade, forming diamond shapes; have ready a band of puff paste as in the last, which place round the apples, pressing it closely to the bottom sheet, egg the top, and bake as in the last; when done shake sugar over the top, and glaze lightly with the salamander.

No. 1154. Tourte d’Entremet au Confiture.

Prepare a sheet of paste upon your baking-sheet as before, in the centre of which put some apricot, greengage, or strawberry jam; roll out a very thin sheet of puff paste, wet the edges of the sheet, and cover over the jam, closing it down at the edges; trim it level, have ready a band of paste, as in the last, wet round, place the band round, press it close, then with a sharp-pointed knife make incisions upon the thin paste over the marmalade, cutting quite through, forming some fancy design, wet slightly, throw sugar over, egg the band upon the top, and bake as before.

No. 1155. Tartelettes pralinées aux Abricots.

Have ready buttered twelve or as many small tartelette pans as you may require, line each one with a piece of puff paste cut with a cutter of the same size as the pans, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball (made of stiff flour and water paste) in each, and bake them nicely in a very hot oven; when done take out the little balls, turn the tartelettes upside down, shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze with a salamander, turn them over, shake sugar in the interior, which also glaze with the salamander; you have previously chopped two ounces of almonds very fine, which put into a basin, with two ounces of sugar, and mix well with the white of an egg, spread a little upon the bottom of each tartelette, shake a little sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry; when ready to serve put an apricot in each, stewed as for the vol-au-vent d’abricots (No. 1142). They may be served salamandered very crisp upon both sides, omitting the almonds.

No. 1156. Tartelettes de Pêches.

Make your tartelettes as in the last and fill with peaches dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1141).

No. 1157. Tartelettes aux Cerises.

Proceed as before, filling them when baked with cherries dressed as for the vol-au-vent (No. 1144).

No. 1158. Tartelettes aux Groseilles vertes.

Make the tartelettes as before, have ready three pints of young green gooseberries, which put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound of lump sugar and half a wineglassful of water, place them over a sharp fire, moving them round occasionally till done, which you may ascertain by their shrivelled appearance, if too much done they will become quite brown, put them in a basin and leave them till quite cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.

No. 1159. Tartelettes of Greengages.

Prepare your tartelettes as before and fill with greengages prepared as directed for the vol-au-vent (No. 1143).

No. 1160. Tartelettes aux Fraises.

Prepare the tartelettes as before, pick a fine pottle of strawberries, which put into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, shake them well together, fill the tartelettes and serve.

No. 1161. Tartelettes de Pommes.

Prepare the tartelettes as usual, and have ready prepared ten apples (golden pippins) cut each one in halves, take out the cores and peel them neatly, put the juice of a lemon in your sugar-pan into which throw them as you peel them; when they are all done add half a pound of lump sugar and a little thin lemon-peel cut in strips, stew them gently till tender and leave them to get cold in their syrup, then fill the tartelettes, half an apple in each, mix a little apricot marmalade with the syrup, pour a little over each and serve.

No. 1162. Tartelettes de Poires.

Prepare the tartelettes as before, then have eight or ten small ripe pears, cut them in halves and proceed precisely as with the apples in the last, serve the same.

No. 1163. Tartelettes of Cranberries.

Prepare the tartelettes as directed, then have ready three pints of cranberries which you have drained and stewed over a sharp fire, with one pound of lump sugar and two ounces of green angelica cut in fillets, until the syrup becomes very thick, place them upon the ice till cold, when fill the tartelettes and serve.

The cranberries sold in London I believe are from America; they are tolerably good, but nothing to compare to those I have used in Shropshire and Wales; they grow in that part of the country in meadows close to the water; upon my first going there I was quite unacquainted with the merit of this beautiful fruit, but soon perceived that very beautiful entremets might be made from them, besides plain tarts, for which they were daily used; their bitterness and peculiar wild flavour rendering them very palatable and wholesome. I have thought proper to make this remark, knowing that so few people are aware of their merit and that so many are actually spoilt for want of gathering.

No. 1164. Tartelettes d’Oranges.

Prepare the tartelettes as described, have eight oranges, peel and cut off the white pith and divide each orange into twelve pieces, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, reduce till rather thick, then throw in half the oranges, let them boil one minute, take them out, lay them upon a dish, and put in the remainder, stew one minute as before, reduce the syrup again, and when nearly cold pour it over the oranges; when ready fill your tartelettes and serve.

No. 1165. Fauchonettes à la Vanille.

Line eighteen tartelette pans with puff paste as for tartelettes, but do not work up the edges so high, have also a crème made in the following manner: put a pint of milk into a stewpan and when it boils put in a stick of vanille, and reduce the milk to half, in another stewpan have the yolks of three eggs, with an ounce and a half of powdered sugar and one of sifted flour, with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out the vanille, place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens; when cold fill the tartelettes and bake them nicely in a moderate oven, when baked and cold have ready a meringue mixture of four eggs, (see No. 1218,) a teaspoonful of which lay upon each, spreading it quite flat with a knife, make a ring of seven small button meringues round each upon the top with a larger one in the centre, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven till of a light brown colour and the meringue quite crisp; to serve, dress them pyramidically upon your dish.

No. 1166. Dauphines.

Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, and place a small piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, which cover with a custard made as directed in the last, bake them in a moderate oven; when cold prepare a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which form a very high pyramid upon the top of each tartelette, sift sugar over and place them in a slow oven to dry, keeping them very white; serve cold, dressed round upon a napkin.

No. 1167. Tartelettes à la Pompadour.

Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, have also eighteen pieces of brioche paste (No. 1321), each the size of a walnut, roll them out to the thickness of a penny-piece, keeping them round, place a piece of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, wet the paste, fold it over the marmalade to form a ball, and turn them over into your tartelettes, wet the tops, turn them over on some rough pounded sugar, place them upon a baking-sheet, bake in a moderate oven, dress pyramidically upon a napkin and serve quite hot.

No. 1168. Mirlitons aux Fleurs d’Orange.

Line about eighteen or twenty tartelette-pans with puff paste, then put an ounce of powdered candied orange-flowers in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of crushed maccaroons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, two yolks and two whole eggs, with a grain of salt, stir altogether, then add two ounces of fresh butter warmed and the whites of two eggs beat up very stiff, fill the tartelettes, sift sugar rather thickly over and bake them in a moderate oven.

No. 1169. Mirlitons aux Amandes.

Proceed exactly as in the last, using one ounce of bitter and one ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, dried, and pounded, and two ounces of maccaroons instead of a quarter of a pound, omitting the candied orange-flowers.

No. 1170. Mirlitons au Citron.

Proceed as for mirlitons aux fleurs d’orange, only rubbing the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding it, and omitting the orange-flowers.

No. 1171. Petits Vol-au-vents à la Chantilly.

Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done roll it to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and with a fluted cutter cut out twenty pieces rather larger than a penny-piece and with a plain round cutter the size of a halfpenny, cut a piece from the centre of each, leaving the rings, roll up the trimmings of the paste to the same thickness as before, from which cut twenty more pieces with the fluted cutter, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them, wet lightly upon the top, and place the rings over very even, pressing them down gently, egg the tops and bake in a good oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, whip half a pint of double cream, to which add a little sugar pounded, with a few candied orange-flowers; when the vol-au-vents are cold put a little marmalade in the bottom with the cream over and serve.

No. 1172. Petits Vol-au-vents aux Abricots.

Make the vol-au-vents as in the last, but when baked have a quarter of a pound of sugar boiled au cassé (No. 1379), dip the top of each of the vol-au-vents lightly into it, and immediately dip them in white sugar, in grains (that is, the sugar pounded and all the fine sifted from it, which again sift through a coarse wire sieve), when all done fill the centre with some good apricot marmalade, or small pieces of apricots, peaches, &c., as prepared for the large vol-au-vents.

No. 1173. Petits Vol-au-vents à la Gelée mousseuse.

Make the vol-au-vents as described in the last, but dipping them into red sugar in grains, (see No. 1375,) instead of white; when done put a pint of very good marasquino jelly into a bowl, melt it, place it upon the ice and keep whisking till set, it will be quite white and frothy, fill the vol-au-vents, and serve with a few drops of marasquino sprinkled over and a very fresh strawberry upon the top of each, or, if not in season, a brandied cherry.

No. 1174. Petits Puits aux Pistachios

Are made the same as the vol-au-vents; when baked dip the tops lightly into sugar as before, and dip them into chopped pistachios (very green) and sugar in grains, fill them with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377) and place a dried cherry upon the top.

No. 1175. Gateau fourré à la Crème.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done divide it into two parts, one a fourth larger than the other, roll them up into two balls gently, and roll the first into a sheet the thickness of a penny-piece, sprinkle a baking-sheet with a little water, upon which lay it, put some frangipane (No. 1295) in the centre, which spread to within half an inch of the edge all round, and three quarters of an inch in thickness, wet the edge lightly, then lay the other sheet of paste (which you have rolled into a sheet, thicker and larger than the first) over, close it well at the edges, egg it well over, trim round with your knife, sketch some design upon the top with the point of a knife, bake about three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander; when cold cut it into pieces two inches and a half in length and one in breadth; dress in crown upon a napkin or upon a border of apple marmalade.

No. 1176. Gateau fourré au Confiture.

Make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as in the last, spreading apricot, strawberry, or greengage jam about a quarter of an inch in thickness in the centre instead of the frangipane, finish as the last, but it will not take so long to bake, serve the same.

No. 1177. Gateau fourré, ou d’Artois, aux Pommes.

Peel and cut ten apples into slices, put them into a preserving-pan with two ounces of butter, six ounces of powdered sugar, some thin lemon-peel cut in strips, and a little powdered cinnamon, pass them over a sharp fire till tender, then take them off, mix four tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them, and put by till cold; make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as before, using the above preparation instead of the sweatmeats before mentioned.

No. 1178. Gateau fourré Anglo-Français.

Put three ounces of ground rice in a stewpan with which mix gradually a pint of milk, stir over the fire till it thickens and the rice is done; you have pounded a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter with six ounces of sugar, put them in the stewpan with half an ounce of candied citron cut small and soaked in a glass of marasquino, which also put in, add five eggs, beat altogether, and stir over the fire till it again thickens, when cold proceed exactly as for the gateau fourré à la crème, substituting the above preparation for the frangipane.

No. 1179. Petits Gateaux fourrés au Confiture.

Prepare half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll into a long band three inches wide and nearly a quarter of an inch thick, have it upon your slab before you, then place rolls of jam an inch and a half in length, as thick as your little finger and two inches apart, in the centre; wet the edges all along and fold the paste over, press down with your finger round each piece of marmalade, cut them out with a knife, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them; egg over, and with the point of a knife sketch a leaf upon each, cutting nearly through the paste, bake them nicely in a moderate oven, and when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them round upon a border of apple marmalade when cold, or dress in pyramid. Any kind of sweetmeat may be used for these kinds of gateaux, but observe it requires to be very firm, for if soft it would run from the paste, and give them a bad appearance.

No. 1180. Petits Gateaux fourrés (round).

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste, from which cut twelve pieces with a round cutter three inches and a half in diameter and the thickness of a penny-piece, then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twelve more pieces with a plain round cutter three inches in diameter, lay a small piece of the preparation of apple as for d’Artois (No. 1177) in the middle of the smaller sheets with a preserved cherry upon the top, wet round the edges lightly, then place the larger sheet over, press it well down upon the edges with the rim of the smaller cutter, with which also cut them round; wet lightly over and place a small ring upon the top, sprinkle white sugar in rather coarse grains over, and bake rather white in a moderate oven, when cold place a fine preserved cherry within each ring upon the top, and dress them in pyramid; they may likewise be made square or any other shape, by following the above directions, they may be made smaller if required.

No. 1181. Petits Gateaux fourrés aux Amandes.

Make the cakes exactly as above, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split each one in halves (wet the top of the cakes), and with them form a rosette, pressing them into the paste; place a ring of paste upon the top as before, sprinkle white sugar in grains over, bake them nearly white, when done fill the ring with red currant jelly, and when cold serve as before.

No. 1182. Petits Gateaux fourrés Meringué.

Make the cakes as before, but omitting the almonds, when baked and cold prepare a meringue mixture of three whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which put into a paper cornet, and with it pipe a rosette tastefully upon each gateau; throw pounded sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them, place them in the screen to dry, when dry fill each cavity with currant, apple, or quince jelly, which will have a very pleasing effect. You may also form a rope round with meringues, which sprinkle with green and red sugar in grains (see No. 1375), filling the interior with jellies as before, they may be made oval also.

No. 1183. Patisserie d’Amandes à la Condé.

Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or little more if required, spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown colour in a moderate oven, dress them in pyramid.

No. 1184. Turban de Condé à la Rhubarbe.

Dress some of the pastry as directed in the last, in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, have ready a bundle of red forced rhubarb (very young), which put into a preserving-pan with one pound of powdered sugar and a wine-glassful of water, stew quickly over a sharp fire keeping it very red, the syrup must be very thick; when quite cold fill the centre of the turban and serve. Apricots, apples, pears, peaches, greengages, or any other fruits, dressed as for vol-au-vents, can be served in this manner.

No. 1185. Petits Gateaux d’Abricots.

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it to the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into pieces three inches square, in the centre of which put a roll of apricot marmalade about two inches long and the thickness of your finger; wet the paste round lightly, and fold it over in the form of a book, egg over and bake them in a warm oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, or they may be made in the shape of diamonds by cutting the paste into pieces of that form, and covering one over the other.

No. 1186. Petits Gateaux renversés.

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll it to the thickness of a halfpenny-piece, and with a round cutter cut out twenty-four pieces rather larger than a five-shilling piece, wet lightly and fold them over forming half circles, wet the top, dip into some coarse sugar in grains and bake on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven of a light colour, cut fillets of currant jelly, with which garnish by piping them in the separation with a paper cornet, and serve dressed in pyramid.

No. 1187. Petites Bouchées à la Patissière.

Make half a pound of puff paste, from which cut fifteen pieces the thickness of a penny-piece, with an oval fluted cutter two inches and a half in length and one and a half in breadth, wet them upon the top; then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twenty an inch in diameter, taking out the centre with a smaller cutter, thus forming them into rings, place them upon the top exactly in the centre, wet the rings lightly, dip the tops into some white sugar in grains, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake them a light colour; when done fill the ring with a little currant or apple jelly, a dried cherry, or any description of preserve.

No. 1188. Eventail aux Cerises.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of half an inch, cut it in strips a quarter of an inch wide and three inches long, lay them upon their sides upon the baking-sheet, leaving them room to spread, bake in a moderate oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, with cherries in the centre dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1144).

No. 1189. Petits Gateaux à la Royale.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of a penny-piece, beat three quarters of a pound of finely sifted sugar in a basin with the whites of two eggs and a little lemon-juice; if too stiff add a little more white of egg, beat well, spread over the sheet of paste, and cut it into pieces three inches long and one broad, lay them upon your baking-sheet and bake in a slow oven.

There are likewise a great many small cakes which may be made from puff paste in all variety of forms, with different shaped cutters, and ornamented with different preserves, or meringued in any pattern or design you may fancy, but these must be left entirely to the taste.

No. 1190. A Flan of Puff Paste.

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll twelve times till nearly worn out, letting it remain some time on the slab before using; then have a plain round or oval flan mould,[14] butter the interior and line it with the paste about one third of an inch in thickness, place a sheet of white paper at the bottom and a band round the sides in the interior, which fill with bread-crumbs, bake in a warm oven rather crisp, take out, empty it of the bread-crumbs, and paper and turn it from your mould, sift sugar all over and glaze with the salamander, serve filled with any of the fruits dressed as directed for vol-au-vents. Should you have any trimmings of paste left from a previous day it may be used instead of making fresh.

No. 1191. Flan de Pommes à la Portugaise.

Make half a pound of flour into a fine paste (pâte fine, No. 1136), roll it into a sheet about eleven inches in diameter, work up the sides with your hands two inches in height, which crimp and ornament neatly with pâte d’office (No. 1137), or some of the same paste cut into small leaves, with which form a wreath or some other design, by wetting the flan round and sticking them upon it; then peel two dozen small apples (golden pippins), take the cores from fifteen of them with a long round cutter, make a syrup with half a pint of water, the juice of a lemon, and three quarters of a pound of sugar, reduce over a sharp fire till becoming thickish, put in the whole apples which stew gently till tender, then take them out, cut up the remainder, put them into the syrup and boil to a thickish marmalade; lay half the marmalade at the bottom of the flan, then the whole apples, and fill up with the marmalade not hiding the whole apples, put a band of buttered paper round and bake three quarters of an hour, when done take off the buttered paper and mask all over with apricot marmalade, serve either hot or cold.

No. 1192. Flan de Poires.

Make a crust the same as above, peel and cut in halves about two dozen very nice pears, put them into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of one, free from pith, cut into small strips; stew till tender, when cold place them in your flan with the syrup over, bake three quarters of an hour with a band of paper round, finish and serve as in the last.

Cherries, greengages, and apricots may also be used for the above purposes by following the same methods, dressing the fruit as for vol-au-vents.

No. 1193. Flanc à la Crème pralinée.

Prepare a crust as before, which fill with some frangipane (No. 1295), in which you have put six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and chopped, put a band of paper round, bake three quarters of an hour, then take off the paper, wet the crust, sift sugar all over, and glaze with the salamander.

No. 1194. Pâté à Choux.

Put half a pint of water in a stewpan, with six ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar (pounded), with half a stick of vanille and a pinch of salt; when it begins to boil stir in three good spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire, keeping it cleared from the bottom of the stewpan, till becoming a toughish paste; take it off the fire, and stir in six or seven eggs one after the other, and work them well in; it is then ready; butter a baking-sheet and lay your paste upon it in round pieces nearly the size of a walnut,[15] egg over, and sprinkle white sugar in grains upon them, bake in a moderate oven, and when done and cold open a lid at the top, fill them with a jam or marmalade of some description, replace the lid, and serve dressed in pyramid upon a napkin. Half the quantity of this and following receipts may of course be made.

No. 1195. Petits Choux à la Crème.

Prepare your paste as in the last, place it in round balls upon your baking-sheet, egg over, sprinkle with sugar in grains, and bake them as in the last, then put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemon-peel, and a few candied orange-flowers well pounded; mix well together, add a gill of boiling milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, place in a basin upon the ice, when cold, add a gill of whipped cream, mix well, fill your petits choux, and serve as in the last.

No. 1196. Petits Choux aux Amandes.

Proceed as above, but when they are baked cover lightly with a mixture of almonds and sugar, as directed for patisserie d’amandes (No. 1183); put them again in the oven till it has set and become crisp; when cold fill and serve as before.

No. 1197. Petits Choux à la Comtesse.

Prepare the paste as before, but lay it out upon your baking-sheet, in long pieces the size of your finger, egg and sugar over, bake as before, and when cold open them beneath and fill with the cream as above.

No. 1198. Petits Choux en Gimblettes.

Make the paste as before, lay it in larger round balls upon a buttered baking-sheet, dip the handle of your paste-brush into some egg, with which make a hole as large as a shilling in the centre of each, thus forming them into rings, each rather larger than a five-shilling piece; egg over, and sprinkle with sugar in grains and chopped pistachios mixed together; bake them as before, but in a slow oven; they do not require to be filled.

No. 1199. Petits Pains à la Crèmière.

Put half a pint of thin cream in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, two ounces of sugar, and a little salt; when boiling add three spoonfuls of flour; stir well over the fire, clearing it from the bottom till becoming toughish, then add six eggs, one at a time, which work in well; the paste requires to be rather firm; when cold put a little flour upon your pastry slab, upon which turn the paste; roll it out in pieces an inch and a half in length, make an incision down the centre with your knife, and lay them upon a baking-sheet, egg over, bake them in a warm oven; when done sift sugar over, and glaze with the salamander; serve dressed in pyramid, and very hot.

No. 1200. Madeline au vin de Ports.

Put half a pound of flour in a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and a little orange-flour water; mix the whole well together with five eggs, butter a cylinder mould, put the paste into it, and bake of a nice gold colour in a moderate oven; put four glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a little sugar, four cloves, and a little cinnamon; mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot with a glass of port wine cold, which stir in with the other in your stewpan, turn the madeline out upon your dish, pour the wine over, straining it through a sieve; when cold fill the centre with half a pint of whipped cream, flavoured with orange-flower-water, and serve.

They may also be made in smaller moulds, dressed in pyramid, with the sauce over.

No. 1201. Genoises.

Well pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and pass them through a wire sieve; put them into a basin, with six ounces of flour and six eggs; beat well together, add a little salt, half a gill of whipped cream, and a piece of butter the size of an egg (melted but not hot); butter a sauté-pan, pour the mixture into it, bake in a moderate oven half an hour, or till rather crisp, turn it out upon your board, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes with your knife or different shaped cutters (but do not make them too large, or they would not look well), which decorate with a white or pink iceing (No. 1388) or meringue with a paper cornet, and different sorts of preserves.

No. 1202. Genoises fourées.

Prepare a mixture as above, but only put half of it in the sauté-pan; when half done spread a little apricot marmalade over, and pour over the remainder of the mixture; when done turn out upon a board, cut and ornament it as directed above. This style of genoise is new, and when well made very excellent.

No, 1203. Genoises à l’Orange.

Proceed as before, but rub the sugar with the rind of an orange previous to pounding it, and add a small glass of brandy; bake, cut, and ornament it as before.

No. 1204. Genoises aux Pistaches.

Make a genoise as before, bake it, and when cold cut it into round pieces the size of a penny-piece; cut also as many rings the size of a shilling, mask the tops of the round pieces with white iceings (No. 1381) and place a ring in the centre of each, which also mask; have two ounces of pistachios blanched and split in halves, which lay upon them, their points to the rings, thus forming rosettes; fill the rings with marmalade when ready to serve.

No. 1205. Darioles.

Line (very thinly) a dozen small dariole moulds with paste (pâte à foncer, No. 1136), then put one ounce of flour in a basin with an egg, beat it quite smooth, then add six yolks of eggs and four ounces of sugar (pounded) with a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, six large macaroons crushed, one whole egg, and half a pint of good cream; mix all well together, put a small piece of butter in each of the moulds, fill them with the above preparation, and bake in a quick oven, when done take them out of the mould, sift sugar over, and serve very hot; they will be as light as souffles and eat as delicate.

No. 1206. Biscatelles.

Put one pound of sugar into a basin with five eggs, work it well, and add by degrees four more eggs, then stir in the yolks of five other eggs with a pound of flour, add three quarters of a pound of butter just melted, and the whites of five eggs, beat very stiff, bake it in a sauté-pan, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes, which ornament with meringue, iceing and preserves as your fancy may direct; half the above quantity would be sufficient for a dish.

No. 1207. Gateaux à l’Indienne.

Make a sponge-cake mixture (No. 1369) of six eggs, which bake in twelve small dariole moulds, when cold cut them in slices, spread a little currant jelly upon each, with a little maresquino, and build them of their original shape; have ready a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which mask them, finish the top in a point, sprinkle over with rough sugar and dry in a very slow oven, keeping them quite white; when cold, dress in pyramid as elevated as possible.

No. 1208. Gauffres aux Pistaches.

Weigh the weight of six eggs of sugar and three of flour, which put into a basin with half a pound of sweet almonds chopped very fine, mix them with six whole eggs and a teaspoonful of orange-flower-water; rub two or three baking-sheets very lightly with very white wax, upon which drop the mixture with a spoon into cakes the size of a penny piece; let it spread, then lay some pistachios blanched and filleted upon them, place in a warmish oven, and be very particular in baking, for if done too much you will not be able to do anything with them, and if not done enough they will not be crisp eating; directly they are done take them from the oven, and with a thin knife take them off the baking-sheet, curl them over the handle of a wooden spoon as quickly as possible, and place in a screen for a short time to dry; in case your gauffres run out of shape cut them out with an oval cutter or with the point of a knife before putting them upon the spoon.

No. 1209. Gauffres à l’Allemande

Are made the same as the above, but omitting the almonds and pistachios, serve them filled with whipped cream, to which you have added a little powdered sugar and orange-flower-water, if in season a fine strawberry may be placed at each end, dress them in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1210. Gauffres à la Vanille

Are made the same as the gauffres aux pistaches, but adding half a stick of vanilla well pounded and sifted with the sugar, and half a glass of brandy instead of the orange-flower-water. A variety of beautiful entremets may be made with gauffres, according to taste.

No. 1211. Gauffres à la Flamande.

Put half a pound of flour in a basin, with which mix six eggs by degrees, working it at first upon one side of the basin, until you have mixed the whole into a smooth paste, then dissolve a piece of dried German yeast, half the size of a walnut, in a wineglassful of warm water; when dissolved pour it into the basin with a gill of warm milk and a little salt, mix all well together, stir in six ounces of butter, previously melted, also two spoonfuls of orange-flower-water, set in a warm place for nearly two hours, when the mixture would have risen about two or three inches turn it round five or six times with a wooden spoon to bring it down; let remain half an hour longer and it is ready for use.

Put the gauffre irons upon a slow fire, turning them occasionally, to get hot by degrees, wipe them well with a cloth, and rub lightly over the interior with fat bacon, then put in two or three spoonfuls of the paste, close the irons, put them over the fire (turning occasionally) for a few minutes; open the irons half way to see if coloured sufficiently (they should be of a light gold colour) and very crisp, if done turn it out, proceeding in like manner with the remainder; when finished have half a pound of lump sugar, well pounded, with a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon and passed through a fine sieve, dip the gauffres into it on both sides and serve very hot dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1212. Gauffres à la Casalesry.

Put half a pound of fresh butter into a middling-sized basin (having previously pressed it in a cloth to extract the buttermilk), work it round with your hand until forming a whitish cream, then add half a pound of sifted flour and a piece of yeast of the size of a walnut; work well together, set it in a warm closet half an hour, or until well risen, take it out, add half a pint of whipped cream (taking care that the mixture is not too hot, or it would turn sour) and a little salt, put the gauffre irons upon the fire, and proceed as in the last; when done roll them in powdered cinnamon and sugar mixed together, and send very hot to table; either of the two last may be served either as an entremet or a remove.

No. 1213. Red Nougat.

Blanch and skin three quarters of a pound of almonds, which cut into small fillets, and place them in the oven until lightly browned; put six ounces of powdered sugar in a copper pan with a little essence of cochineal, stir round over the fire till melted, and when it commences boiling stir in the almonds and turn it out upon a buttered baking-sheet, spread out thin, and before getting too crisp cut it into pieces (with a knife) two inches in length and three quarters of an inch in breadth; dress them in crown upon your dish and fill the interior with a pint of whipped cream, in which you have put a tablespoonful of sugar and one of orange-flower-water; strawberries may be added if in season. Nougat aux pistaches is made by omitting the cochineal, and when spread out upon the baking-sheet sprinkling chopped pistachios over whilst very hot, and proceeding as in the last.

No. 1214. Small Cups of Nougat.

Prepare the nougat as before, then have a number of dariole or tartelette moulds, oil the interior slightly, and when the mixture is half cold put a piece the size of a walnut in each, which press to the shape of the mould, with your finger and thumb; when cold take them out and serve filled with cream as before. Vases and large cups may also be made with it, by having moulds and proceeding as for the smaller ones; but for the larger moulds or shapes, which require more time to fill, to prevent the mixture getting cold, keep the pan upon a trivet at the mouth of the oven, taking it by pieces as you require.

No. 1215. Nougat d’Abricot.

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll twelve times, leaving it about the thickness of half-a-crown piece, place it upon a baking-sheet, and spread apricot marmalade over a quarter an inch in thickness, then have ready, finely chopped and well dried, three quarters of a pound of blanched sweet almonds, which put into a basin with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, and mix with the whites of four eggs, spread it all over the marmalade and bake in a hot oven a nice colour; when cold cut it into pieces of any shape you please, and dress in crown upon a napkin to serve. Brioche paste (No. 1321) would be better than puff paste for the above, but they are very excellent either way.

No. 1216. Châtaignes Croquantes.

Roast sixty chesnuts, take them from the husks, and when cold pound them well, adding a little white of egg to prevent their oiling; then add half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, and the yolks of two or three eggs, mix all well together; lay the paste upon a marble slab, roll it out into small pieces two inches long, place them on a baking-sheet, mark with a knife upon the top, and bake in a sharp oven, when done dip them into sugar boiled to au casse (No. 1379), when cold they are ready to serve.

No. 1217. Amandes Croquantes.

Blanch one pound of sweet almonds, which put in a slow oven to dry, when cold put them into a mortar with one pound of lump sugar, pound very fine and pass them through a wire sieve upon a marble slab, rub in three quarters of a pound of butter, a little chopped rind of lemon, and the yolks of three eggs, form the paste thus made, into small pieces of any shape you please, which bake and dip in sugar as in the last.

No. 1218. Meringues à la Cuilliere.

Pound and sift one pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of ten eggs very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you have wetted, and put them into a slow oven, just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly tinge; when the outside becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy-turvy and lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and put into the screen to dry; they may be made a day or two before they are required, if put away in a dry place; to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavoured either with vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin and serve. Should they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water.

No. 1219. Turban de Meringues.

Make a meringue mixture as above of five eggs and half a pound of sugar, which lay out on white paper, but with a teaspoon, of the size and shape of pheasants’ eggs; sift sugar over, which shake off directly, place them upon boards and bake in a slacker oven than directed for the last, keeping them quite white, and drying them quite through; when cold wet the paper underneath, take off the meringues, dry them a little more, have ready, and baked a round board of pâte d’office (No. 1137), seven inches in diameter, have also ready a little white iceing (No. 1383) mixed rather stiff, form a ring of it round the rim of the board, upon which dress the meringues, placing a piece of the iceing the size of a pea at the bottom of each to fix them one to the other, place it to dry, have a little iceing thinner than the last, dip one end of the remaining meringues into it, and then into chopped pistachios (very green), with them form another row upon the first, keeping the green end uppermost, dry it till set, and when ready to serve fill the interior with a whipped cream as in the last, and sprinkle chopped pistachios over, or fill them with any of the crèmes bavaroises; the meringues may likewise be laid out with a paper cornet.

No. 1220. Turban de Meringues glacé.

Make a turban as directed in the last, then soak two ounces of citron (candied), two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, in one glass of maresquino, mix the whole in a freezing-pot with a pint and a half of vanilla ice (No. 1381), fill the turban, at the moment of serving, with it.

No. 1221. Petits Meringues aux Pistaches.

Make a meringue mixture of five whites of eggs and half a pound of sugar as before, lay out upon papers with a teaspoon; have ready two ounces of chopped pistachios, which sprinkle over, then sift a little sugar over, which shake off immediately, place them upon boards, bake and empty as directed for meringues à la cuillerée (No. 1218), fill them with whipped cream in which you have introduced a few chopped pistachios, stick two together and serve; these are intended more for garniture than to be served as a dish by themselves.

No. 1222. Champignons en surprise.

Make a meringue mixture of ten eggs as before, put one half of the mixture into a paper horn, (or cornet,) cut a piece of the bottom with a knife to leave a hole as large as the tip of your little finger, press the mixture through it upon sheets of white paper, into pieces as large round as a five-shilling piece, sprinkle them over with grated chocolate and powdered sugar mixed, put the remainder of the mixture into another paper horn, cut a hole at the bottom smaller than in the last, and press the mixture through it upon paper, into pieces an inch and a half in length, and thicker at one end than the other, commencing at the small end to form the stalk of a mushroom, sift a little sugar over, place them upon a board, with those you first laid out, put in a slow oven, when the smaller ones are perfectly dried take them off the papers, stick two together, dip the thick end in white of egg and then into grated chocolate, take out the larger ones, remove them from the paper by wetting it at the back, then stick the smaller ones into them, thus forming mushrooms, dry in the screen and use them for garniture where directed.

No. 1223. Biscuit manqué aux Amandes.

Put half a pound of powdered sugar into a basin, with the yolks of six eggs, beat them well together with a wooden spoon, melt two ounces of fresh butter, which add to the mixture, with six ounces of flour and the whites of the six eggs beat very stiff, stir it till well mixed, but not more than is required, butter a sauté-pan lightly, put some finely powdered sugar into it, shake all over the pan and turn out that which does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture, have a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds cut into thin fillets, lay them upon the top and sift sugar over, bake in a moderate oven of a light brown colour; when done take it out of the sauté-pan, and when cold cut it in pieces of a diamond shape three inches in length and two in breadth and serve dressed in pyramid.

No. 1224. Biscuit manqué au Rhum.

Put half a pound of powdered sugar in a basin, with three quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, (melted,) two glasses of old Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds well pounded, (with the sugar,) and a little salt; mix the whole together, with the yolks of six and two whole eggs, then add the whites of the six eggs whipped very stiff, stirring them in very lightly, have ready a large square paper box, butter the interior well and pour in the mixture; bake in a moderate oven; when nearly done egg over the top with a paste-brush and cover with a preparation of almonds made thus: blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, which cut into thin fillets, dry them in a hot closet, put them into a basin, with three ounces of sugar and mix with the whites of two eggs, place the manqué again in the oven until done and the almonds become slightly browned, then take it from the oven and when cold cut in diamonds or any other shapes your fancy may direct. They do not require to be more than an inch in thickness, and rum may be exchanged for any other flavour if desired.

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No. 1225. Calf’s Foot Jelly, flavoured as required.

Jellies may be considered as the first, most wholesome, and refreshing dishes of the second course, especially when made from calves’ feet, which meritorious discovery belongs especially to the English kitchen, where I believe they have been used for years; the inventor certainly deserves a place in the archives of cookery. For the making of jellies in France nothing but isinglass is used, which is so adulterated in its preparation that it requires a person to be a good judge to select it, whilst calves’ feet may be selected by any one, only requiring to be well scalded and fresh. But here I must observe that the discovery has never been advantageously developed to the public at large, for the introduction of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and other spices, give it a very common flavour, which does not at all harmonize with the delicacy of the jelly; a real gourmet would not only send it from his table, but discharge the maker with the impression that a cook without taste was no cook at all; the only flavour required in jelly being some light liqueur, wine, or the freshness of some delicious fruits. Orange jelly, and jelly from the juice of any other fruits, may likewise be made with the calf’s foot jelly, by omitting the greater part of juice of lemon and using it instead, but here isinglass has an advantage, it will keep for any time and may be used in the country where, perhaps, at the time required calves’ feet cannot be obtained.

Take four calf’s feet, cut them up and put them into a stewpan, with six quarts of water, place upon the fire; when boiling remove to the corner, where let boil slowly five hours, to reduce to about two quarts, keeping well skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, in which let remain in a cold place till set quite firm, take off as much of the oil from the top as possible with a spoon, and wash off the remainder with a little hot water as quickly as possible, wipe dry with a cloth, and put it into a stewpan, with a pound of lump sugar broken in small pieces, the juice of ten lemons, the rind of four (free from pith), the whites of eight eggs, with the shells, half a pint of water, and half a pint of sherry, place the stewpan over the fire and keep whisking its contents until boiling, then pass it through your jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through back again, until it runs quite clear; it is then ready for use as directed in the following receipts.

To be quite certain of the strength of your jelly take a little from the stewpan previous to its boiling, which put into the bottom of a small mould and place upon the ice if too strong add a little more water, but if by mistake too weak reduce it in clarifying.

I have invented some few new jelly moulds, the designs of which are shown in the accompanying plates, also some new fruit atelettes (which will be found at the end of this work), one of which, placed at the top of a jelly when turned out, is a very handsome addition.

No. 1226. Gelée de Dantzic aux Fraises.

Take a quart of jelly clarified as above, with which mix four glasses of eau de vie de Dantzic, reserving the gold leaves by letting them set at the bottom of the glass, mix four tablespoonfuls of the jelly with it, have a cylinder mould and place it in ice, put the jelly with the leaves first in, so that the gold will show at the top of the jelly when turned out, place a fine strawberry in each knob of the mould, then add a little more jelly, when nearly set add more strawberries, sticking them to the sides of the mould and arranging them as tastefully as possible, fill up by degrees or you would have all the strawberries swimming at the top; when finished and quite set it is ready to turn out, which is done by dipping the mould in warm water; wipe quickly with a cloth, shake the mould gently, turn over carefully upon your dish, and draw the mould off quite straight. Two glasses of pale brandy may advantageously be added to the jelly.

No. 1227. Gelée de Maresquin aux Pêches.

Take a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four glasses of the best Italian maresquino, have four nice ripe peaches, but perfectly sound, which cut into quarters, bury a cylinder mould in ice, place a little jelly at the bottom, then arrange some of the pieces of peaches, which cover with jelly; when nearly set arrange the remainder, and fill up the mould, proceeding as in the last. The fruit will impart its own peculiar flavour to the jelly.

No. 1228. Gelée de Noyeau aux Abricots.

Flavour a quart of jelly clarified as before with four glasses of the best noyeau, (here I must remark that if the liquors used are not of the best quality it would render the jelly cloudy and very unsightly,) have six nice ripe deep-coloured apricots, which cut in quarters and arrange tastefully in your mould, proceeding as in the two preceding articles. Observe in arranging the fruit in your mould that each piece is separate, so as to leave some parts of the jelly transparent, otherwise it would appear very heavy and ungraceful.

No. 1229. Gelée Macédoine aux Fruits de belle saison.

Prepare a quart of jelly as directed (No. 1225) putting the gold leaves in the mould, which you have previously surrounded with ice, have ready twelve very fresh strawberries, twelve black grapes, twelve very white cherries, and one peach or apricot cut in six, put six strawberries at the bottom, with a piece of peach between each, cover with jelly, when set place in another row of fruit, proceeding thus until full, but not putting the fruit too close together and variegating it as much as possible, or if in winter and the above fruit cannot be obtained prepare three small apples, (golden pippins,) which cut into quarters and put into a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and one ounce of powdered sugar, set them over a slow fire to stew till tender, then put them out on a plate to cool, peel and take all the pith from two small oranges, which cut in quarters, have also a few brandied cherries and some fine black and green grapes; arrange the whole tastefully in your mould, filling with jelly as before directed.

No. 1230. Bordure de Poires en gelée.

Cut twelve middling-sized ripe pears in halves, take out the cores, peel neatly, and throw them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons and half a pound of lump sugar, let stew rather quickly till tender, but not to break, put them upon a dish till cold, have a cylinder mould (but not too deep) upon the ice, have a quart of jelly flavoured with four glasses of any liquor, put a little at the bottom of the mould half an inch in depth when set, dress your pears round in a border, (but the reverse way, so that they become right when the mould is turned over,) fill the mould up with the jelly when quite cold and upon the point of setting, and when wanted turn it out as before, and fill up the centre with red whipped jelly. Apricots or peaches cut in halves may be dressed the same, or apples.

No. 1231. Gelée au Rhum.

Have a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four wineglasses of old Jamaica rum, colour a little with some essence of cochineal, pour it into your mould without any fruit. This is better appreciated by a party of gentlemen, and should not be introduced where there are ladies; by keeping the jelly a little stiffer you may introduce more rum.

No. 1232. Gelée Mousseuse à l’Eau de Vie.

Put a pint and a half of jelly in a stewpan upon the ice, add four glasses of cognac brandy, whip it until very light and upon the point of setting, when pour in your mould, it will be quite white; when ready to serve turn it out as before directed. If wanted clear, proceed as for gelée au rhum.

No. 1233. Gelée demie chaude froide marbrée.

Flavour a quart of jelly with three glasses of maresquino, have ready also a pint of the preparation (crème au maresquin, No. 1251), nearly set in a basin, dip in three apricots cut in quarters, which put in a plate upon the ice till set, have also some quarters of peaches, which also dip into the cream, when set commence filling your mould with the jelly, placing a few fine strawberries at the bottom, then some of the fruit enveloped, filling with the jelly as before directed, and variegating it as much as possible with black grapes, strawberries, and the enveloped fruit. This is quite a new idea, it not only looks well but likewise cuts and eats beautiful.

No. 1234. Gelée fouettée aux Fruits.

Put a pint and a half of jelly upon the ice in a stewpan, to which add three glasses of maresquino, whip the jelly to a white froth, and when upon the point of setting stir in very carefully about thirty strawberries, not too ripe, with a few cherries, apricots in quarters, or peaches; fill your mould and when set turn out as usual. A jelly for whipping requires to be rather stiffer than when clear, if not stiff enough add a little clarified isinglass.

No. 1235. Gelée à l’Ananas.

Procure a middling-sized pineapple, peel it carefully, cut in halves lengthwise, then into slices, (rather thin,) have a quart of jelly in which you have infused the rind of the pineapple, previously well washed, place a little at the bottom of the mould, and when nearly set lay a border of the pineapple over one upon another, forming a ring, cover with more jelly, let it nearly set, then add another border of the pineapples, proceeding thus until the mould is filled.

No. 1236. Orange Jelly.

Have ten fine Malta oranges and three or four lemons, peel off the rind of eight very finely, which put into a basin, clarify a pound of sugar (No. 1379), pass through a napkin into the basin (over the rind) whilst hot, and cover with a sheet of foolscap paper, twisting it tightly over the edge, and pricking a small hole in the centre with a pin to give a little vent; cut the oranges and lemons in halves, squeeze out all the juice through a hair sieve into another basin, and proceed to clarify it as follows: wash well two sheets of white blotting-paper in a basin of water, let well drain upon a sieve, bruise it in a mortar until forming quite a purée, take from the mortar and put it into the basin with the juice, which mix well with it; let remain a quarter of an hour to settle, then pour it into your jelly bag, pouring what runs through back again into the bag until becoming as clear as spring water, strain the syrup again through a napkin, add the clarified juice, two ounces of clarified isinglass (No. 1372), and a few drops of liquid cochineal, to give an orange tint; mix all well together, and pour into a mould surrounded with ice, when set and ready to serve, turn out as before directed.

---

Lemon Jelly is made precisely as directed for the orange jelly, using all lemon-juice instead of orange, rather more syrup, and omitting the cochineal. Some persons mix a handful of white sand well washed with the juice which will assist the clarification, but the idea would be objectionable to many.

No. 1237. Orange Jelly, in the skins of the Oranges.

Procure twelve of the best-formed oranges, and with a round vegetable cutter cut a hole of the size of a shilling at the stalk of each, then with the handle of a teaspoon empty all the pulp from them and clear away as much of the pith as possible, throw them into cold water to harden and retake their original shapes, make a jelly with the pulps as in the last, drain the skins of the oranges, stand them upon ice and fill with the jelly, dress in pyramid when set, or cut them in quarters for garnishing. Should you make a hole in clearing out the skins, place a small piece of butter over previous to placing them upon ice, which take off at the time of serving.

No. 1238. Gelée de Fraises.

Pick two pounds of fresh strawberries, which put in a basin, with the juice of two lemons, (over them) and a quart of clarified boiling syrup; cover with paper, let remain twelve hours, colour a little deeper with the essence of cochineal, pour into your jelly bag, and when it has all run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass cold, but not set; mix well and pour it into your mould.

No. 1239. Gelée d’Abricots.

Take the stones from eighteen ripe fleshy apricots, cut into thin slices and put them into a basin with the juice of three lemons; have ready boiling a pint and a half of clarified syrup, pour it over the apricots, cover the basin with paper, and let them remain until quite cold, then drain the syrup through a napkin, add an ounce and a half of clarified isinglass, (half cold,) mix well in, and pour into your mould. The remainder of the apricot would make a very good marmalade.

No. 1240. Gelée à la Bacchante.

Have two pounds of very fine green grapes, which pound in a mortar, with a few leaves of spinach well washed, add half a gill of water, pass the juice from them through a jelly bag, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar, yielding a pint and a half of syrup, and two ounces of clarified isinglass, both nearly cold, add a pint of champagne, stir well in, pour the jelly in your mould and leave it upon ice till set; when ready turn it out and serve.

No. 1241. Gelée de Fleurs d’Orange au Vin de Champagne.

Clarify three quarters of a pound of sugar, and when boiling add two ounces of candied orange-flowers, take off the fire, cover over closely, and let remain till cold, then strain it through a napkin, when all has run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass, (cold but not set,) and nearly a pint of champagne, mix altogether and pour it into your mould.

No. 1242. Pain de Fruit à la Russe.

Pick a pint of fine red currants, half the quantity of raspberries, a pound and a half of cherries, (stoned,) and nearly a pottle of strawberries, place a few of them lightly at the bottom of the mould, then have ready a quart of strawberry jelly (No. 1238), in which dissolve a pound of powdered sugar; when well dissolved pour some of it in the mould containing the fruit, which place upon the ice, let it nearly set, then put more fruit with more jelly, proceeding in like manner until the mould is full; when set dip it into warm water and turn carefully into your dish.

No. 1243. Crème à la Vanille.

Put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of powdered sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon; in another stewpan have a pint of milk, in which put an ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes, stirring occasionally to keep it from burning, throw in two sticks of vanilla, take it from the fire, put a cover upon the stewpan till three parts cold, then take out the vanilla, pour the milk in the other stewpan upon the eggs and sugar, mix well together, and stir over the fire until becoming a little thick and adhering to the back of the spoon, but do not let it boil, pass through a tammie into a round bowl; when cold set the bowl upon ice, add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino, keep stirring its contents, and when upon the point of setting add three parts of a pint of cream well whipped, mix well together and pouring into your mould, keep it upon ice till wanted, and when ready to serve dip into warm water, wipe with a cloth, and turn it out upon your dish.

No. 1244. Crème aux Pistaches.

Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of very green pistachios, which pound well in a mortar, with six ounces of sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon) and eight bitter almonds, have three quarters of a pint of milk boiling in a stewpan, into which put the above ingredients, with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass previously dissolved, boil a few minutes, then in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, pour the milk upon them and stir altogether over the fire till it thickens, then pour it into a bowl to cool, pound well in a mortar two or three good handfuls of spinach well washed, then place it in a strong cloth, which twist as tight as possible, thus squeezing all the juice out of it, which put into a small stewpan over the fire, the moment it boils it will curdle, pour it on the back of a silk sieve, then place the bowl with the other ingredients upon the ice, finish your cream as in the last, but at the moment of adding your whipped cream, add also some of the spinach from the back of the sieve sufficient to give it a beautiful light green colour.

No. 1245. Crème à l’Ananas.

Take the half of a middling-sized pineapple, peel it, and throw the rind into a stewpan containing a pint of boiling milk and an ounce of isinglass, cut the pineapple up into small strips and put them into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and a wineglassful of sherry or water, place on the fire and let it boil to a thick syrup, in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, to which add the milk by degrees, stirring all the while, straining it through a sieve, place over the fire, keeping it stirred till thickening, then pass it through a tammie into a bowl, add the syrup with the pineapples, leave it to cool, then place it upon ice, and finish as for the crème à la vanille.

No. 1246. Crème aux Amandes.

Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, which dry and pound well with six ounces of lump sugar, put it into a stewpan, with the yolks of four eggs, mix well together, then in another stewpan have a pint of milk in which you have put an ounce of isinglass, boil until reduced to three quarters of a pint, pass through a tammie, and pour over the other ingredients, which stir over the fire till it thickens, when pour into your bowl, let remain till cold, stirring occasionally to keep it smooth, add two glasses of noyeau, and finish as in the last.

No. 1247. Crème d’Orange.

Rub the rind of two oranges upon six ounces of lump sugar, which pound and put into a small preserving-pan, with the juice of four large oranges, let the sugar dissolve, boil over the fire till forming a thick syrup, boil nearly a pint of milk in a stewpan, with an ounce of isinglass ten minutes, then pour it into another stewpan containing the yolks of five eggs, which place upon the fire, stirring until it thickens, but not boiling, pass it through a tammie, add the syrup from the orange, and finish as for the crème à la vanille.

No. 1248. Crème aux Fraises.

Prepare a cream as directed for crème à la vanille, and when ready to pour in your mould add half a pound of fresh gathered strawberries well picked, placing them here and there whilst putting it in the mould, and serve when ready.

No. 1249. Crème d’Abricots.

Take a dozen ripe apricots, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of a lemon, stew them over a slow fire till tender, then rub them through a tammie with two wooden spoons, put rather more than half a pint of milk to boil, with an ounce and a half of isinglass, reduce to half a pint, then pour it into another stewpan containing the yolks of four eggs, stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass it through a tammie into a bowl, add the apricots, and finish as before.

No. 1250. Crème au Ponche.

Boil an ounce of isinglass in three quarters of a pint of milk (five minutes), take the rind from two lemons as thin as possible, without any pith; directly the milk commences boiling throw it in, then in another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs and four ounces of powdered sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add the milk, mix well, and stir over the fire till it thickens, pass through a tammie into a bowl, and when cold add three glasses of maresquino, one of rum, and a teaspoonful of arrack, place upon ice and finish as before; six liqueur glasses of milk punch added instead of the above liqueurs would be very excellent.

No. 1251. Crème au Maresquin.

Prepare a cream as for the crème à la vanille, only adding a quarter of an ounce more isinglass to the custard, and when cold mixing four glasses of maresquino with it.

No. 1252. Crème au Noyeau.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only substituting noyeau for maresquino.

No. 1253. Crème au Café.

Put three ounces of the best (unroasted) Mocha coffee into a stewpan, keep tossing over a sharp fire till it becomes yellow, in another stewpan have a pint of milk in which you have boiled an ounce of isinglass, throw your coffee into it, place the cover upon the stewpan and let stand till half cold, have the yolks of five eggs in another stewpan, with which mix four ounces of powdered sugar, then add the milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, and finish as before.

No. 1254. Crème au Caramel.

Put four ounces of powdered sugar in a stewpan, which stir over a slow fire till quite melted and beginning to tint, take it off the fire; in another stewpan have three quarters of a pint of milk in which you have boiled an ounce of isinglass, pour it upon the caramel, which stir occasionally until it is quite dissolved, pour into another stewpan with the yolks of five eggs, stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass through a tammie, and finish as before.

No. 1255. Bavaroise aux Fraises.

Pick two pounds of fine red strawberries, which put into a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar, let them remain half an hour, then rub them through a tammie, add an ounce of isinglass, previously dissolved in two wineglassfuls of water, boiled and passed through a tammie; set the whole upon the ice, stirring until upon the point of setting, when stir in a pint of cream well whipped, pour it into the mould, which keep upon the ice till set, and when wanted dip it into warm water, and turn out upon your dish.

No. 1256. Bavaroise aux Framboises.

Proceed exactly as for the strawberries in the last, using a pound and a quarter of raspberries and six ounces of currants; or either of the above bavaroises may be made by putting the fruit into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, moving it over the fire until boiling, when strain it through a silk sieve mixing the juice with the dissolved isinglass, and finish as before; should either of the above be deficient in colour a little essence of cochineal may be used.

No. 1257. Bavaroise aux Abricots.

Take twelve ripe fleshy apricots, cut them in halves, stone them, and put them into a preserving-pan with half a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and an ounce of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, stew them till quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, put them in a basin when cold, stir it upon the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour into your mould.

No. 1258. Bavaroise aux Poires.

Procure a dozen and a half of middling-sized pears, peel and cut out the cores, slice them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons (the rind of one of which also add, cut very thin), twenty bitter almonds blanched, and chopped very fine, half a pound of lump sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass, place the pan upon a moderate fire, moving the contents occasionally, stew until quite tender, when rub them through a tammie, and finish as in the last.

No. 1259. Bavaroise aux Pommes.

Peel and cut in quarters twenty small pippin apples, which put into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry, half a pound of sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass; proceed precisely as in the last article, adding a glass of maresquino, if approved of, or noyeau.

No. 1260. Bavaroise aux Pistaches.

Blanch and skin four ounces of pistachios with twelve bitter almonds, and pound them well with six ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon; when well pounded throw it into three quarters of a pint of boiling milk with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass, boil altogether five minutes, then pour it into a bowl or basin, stand upon the ice, keep stirring, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream whipped and some of the preparation of spinach, as for the crème aux pistaches (No. 1244); pour it into your mould, which must be previously lightly oiled, and twenty chopped pistachios shook over the interior, until adhering to the sides.

No. 1261. Bavaroise à l’Ananas.

Procure a middlingsized pineapple, peel and cut it in slices, which put into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, half an ounce of isinglass, and a wineglassful of water, stew until quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, set it on the ice, keeping it stirred; when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, mix well, and pour it into your mould.

No. 1262. Bavaroise au Maresquin.

Put one ounce and a half of isinglass in a stewpan, with half a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and four ounces of lump sugar, boil altogether, reducing one half, skim and pass it through a tammie into a bowl; when cold add four glasses of maresquino, and two of brandy, place it on the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour it into your mould.

No. 1263. Bavaroise au Ponche.

Boil one ounce of isinglass in a stewpan with the juice of four and the rind of two lemons cut very thin, half a pound of sugar, and nearly half a pint of water, reduce one half, then pass it through a tammie into a bowl or basin, and when cold add two glasses of maresquino, two of rum, and half a one of arrack, place it upon the ice and finish as in the last, or use the milk punch as directed for crème au ponche.

I must here observe, that although I have stated as nearly as possible the quantity of isinglass to be used in the foregoing recipes, yet there are so many causes which may make it either too much or insufficient, such as the difference in quality of isinglass, or the difference in the quantity of juice extracted from the various fruits, which would make it impossible to be exact; so that the surest method is to try a little first upon the ice before adding the whipped cream, if too stiff, a little more milk, juice, or liqueur (whatever it may be you are making) must be added, but if not stiff enough, a little more clarified isinglass, which is the method adopted by most practitioners.

No. 1264. Charlotte Russe.

Line the inside of a plain round mould with Savoy biscuits (No. 1361), cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a rosette, and standing them upright round the sides, with a piece cut off the top and bottom of each, and trimmed at the sides to make them stand quite close, stand the mould upon ice, then have ready a crème au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added a good glass of cognac brandy, with which you fill the interior, when set and at the time of serving, turn over upon a dish and lift off the mould.

No. 1265. Charlotte Prussienne.

Put a little jelly (flavoured with a little brandy and coloured of a beautiful crimson, with a little essence of cochineal) into a plain round mould, covering the bottom half an inch in depth; place it upon the ice, then line the sides of the mould with Savoy biscuits, and fill with a bavaroise au maresquin (No. 1262), place it upon ice till set, and when ready to serve dip the bottom of the mould very quickly in warm water, and turn it over upon your dish.

No. 1266. Charlotte Russe en mosaïque.

Have a plain round mould, at the bottom of which lay some grapes (white and black), strawberries, pieces of apples (stewed), pears, or any fruit in season; cover the bottom, variegating them as much as possible to imitate mosaic, set the mould upon ice, and pour in a little clear jelly, but only sufficient to just cover them; when set line the side of the mould with the biscuits, and fill as for charlotte russe, only introducing angelica and stewed apples, cut in large dice, with the cream.

No. 1267. Charlotte Russe aux Liqueurs.

Line a mould as directed in either of the three last articles, and fill with a cream made as for the crème au maresquin (No. 1251), only using one glass of curaçoa, one of noyeau, and one of maresquino, instead of all maresquino.

No. 1268. Charlotte aux Fraises.

Line a plain round mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim, and dipping the strawberries in calf’s-foot jelly, first covering the bottom with them cut in halves, the cut side downwards, afterwards building them up the sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to adhere; when finished, fill it with the cream as directed for the charlotte russe, and when ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a bad effect.

No. 1269. Gateaux aux Fruits de belle saison.

Line a charlotte mould very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries, strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, apples, or pears, cut into very tasteful shapes, stewed in a little syrup, and drained upon the back of a hair sieve), by dipping them into jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice, when well set, terminate as in the last.

No. 1270. Charlotte de Pommes au Beurre.

For the few following receipts, the russet apple is the one I should recommend, it being the most suitable, not being so watery, or falling in purée, but in case they cannot be obtained other sorts may be used, which will require to be more reduced in stewing.

Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter, and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould and the thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter, which stand upright, one half way over the other, all round the interior of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples, which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round-bottomed preserving-pan with six ounces of butter and half a pound of broken lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but keeping them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould (having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place another round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the apples, and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over the fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve.

No. 1271. Charlotte de Pommes à la Confiture.

Proceed as in the last, but when the apples are ready mix a few spoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them and fill the mould; place it in the oven, and serve as before.

No. 1272. Chartreuse de Pommes.

Procure twenty small russet apples, cut off the top and bottom of each, and with a long vegetable cutter cut out as many pieces as possible of the thickness of a quill, and about an inch in length, have in a stewpan upon the fire a thick syrup made from half a pound of sugar, with the juice of a lemon and half a pint of water; when well reduced throw in half your pieces of apples, stew them until tender, but not to break, take them out and lay them upon a hair sieve, put the other half of the apples into the syrup, stew them until nearly done, then add a little essence of cochineal to give them a crimson colour, stew a minute or so more, then take them out, lay them on the sieve till cold, lightly oil a plain round mould, cut some pieces of green angelica, with which form a star at the bottom of the mould, and a border round the bottom, then with the white pieces of apples make a row round the sides, standing each piece upon one end slantingly, one leaning upon the other, above which place a row of the red pieces in the same manner, and so on alternately till you reach the top; you have previously peeled a dozen and a half of apples, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon, a small piece of butter, a little powdered cinnamon, and a small glass of rum, place them over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until forming a thick marmalade, put them in a basin until cold, fill your chartreuse, and when ready to serve turn it out upon your dish, garnish with fillets of red currant jelly, and pour a little white syrup reserved from the apples over.

No. 1273. Suédoise de Pommes.

This very grotesque entremet was never a favorite of mine; any kind of ornaments, such as cascades, ruins, arches, &c., may be made from them, and ornamented with various fruits, but they look very heavy, and from the apples being so much boiled and reduced become very unpalatable, they being nothing more than apples boiled in syrup to a very firm marmalade; I shall not here enter into the various modes of dressing it, but substitute other entremets, which, if not so ornamental, are at any rate much more palatable.

No. 1274. Pain de Pommes à la Russe.

Put one pound and a half of lump sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to au casse (No. 1379), have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into slices, which put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite a thick marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould, previously slightly oiled, shake it well down and let it remain until quite cold, when turn it out of the mould upon your dish; have a few spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire, add two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold pour over and serve with whipped cream in the centre, in which you have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers.

No. 1275. Croquettes de Pommes.

Prepare some apples as in the above, (or the remains of one previously served,) when cold form it into the shape of pears, have three eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece into it, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them over with a knife, then again dip them into the eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry of a light brown colour in very hot lard, dress them upon a napkin in pyramid, and serve with sifted sugar flavoured with orange over them.

No. 1276. Pommes au Riz.

Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful of water, pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the back of a hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan, with a quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry before it is tender add a little more milk, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick, when put it upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it upon your dish eight inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in the centre, where dress some of the apples, more rice over, then more apples, forming a pyramid; you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples, which pour over the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica, forming any design your fancy may dictate. Pommes au riz may be served hot as well as cold.

No. 1277. Poires au Riz.

Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of two lemons. Stew them till tender, then lay them upon a dish to cool, and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup, have some rice prepared as in the last, with which make a stand, but not quite so high, dress the pears in a border in the interior, and again in the centre dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the syrup over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round.

No. 1278. Abricots au Riz.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only passing two dozen of apricots cut in halves, with the kernels from the stones previously blanched and skinned, in the syrup instead of pears, dress them upon the dish precisely the same.

No. 1279. Pommes au Riz en Timbale.

Line a plain round mould with pâte fine (No. 1136), having previously buttered it, the paste must not be thicker than a shilling, then line the interior of the paste with rice dressed as for pommes au riz, placing eight apples in the centre, likewise dressed as for pommes au riz, cover another sheet of paste over, and put in a hot oven until the paste is quite done; when three parts cold turn out upon your dish, mask it over with apricot marmalade, and decorate it with dried cherries and blanched pistachios, according to taste; do not serve until quite cold. Apricots and pears may also be used; this entremet may also be served hot.

No. 1280. Pommes à la Trianon.

Put four ounces of ground rice in a stewpan, with a pint and a quarter of milk and two ounces of butter, stir until boiling, then add the rind of a lemon cut very thin, let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is done and becomes rather thick, when take out the lemon-peel and add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, stir again over the fire until the eggs are set, and put it out upon a dish to get cold, then turn twelve golden pippin apples, taking off the rind without leaving the mark of your knife, having previously with a long vegetable cutter taken out the cores, rub the apples with lemon-juice and stew them in a thick syrup (made with three quarters of a pound of sugar boiled with half a pint of water and the juice of a lemon), stew them until tender, but keep them whole, peel and quarter three oranges, which (after having taken out the apples) just give a boil up in the syrup, then dress the rice in pyramid in the centre of your dish, surrounded with the apples interspersed with the quarters of oranges, and pour the syrup over when ready to serve.

No. 1281. Pommes Meringuées.

Line a small raised pie-mould, three inches in height and eight in diameter, with pâte fine (No. 1136), about a quarter of an inch in thickness, or if no mould raise a crust with the hands of pâte a dresser, fill it with bran or flour, and bake in a moderate oven; when done empty it and have ready some apples dressed as for charlotte de pommes (No. 1270), or dressed in syrup as in the last, with which fill the croustade, then make a meringue preparation (No. 1218), of five eggs, which lay over the top, smoothing it nicely, and ornamenting it with some of the mixture, by piping it with a paper funnel according to your taste, sift a little sugar over, and place it in a very slow oven till it becomes crisp, and serve when ready either hot or cold.

No. 1282. Pommes à la Vestale.

Make a pyramid of rice (upon a dish) dressed as for pommes au riz (No. 1276), peel and cut eight russet apples in slices and put them into a preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon, stew till quite tender and put them into a basin to cool, then cut nine small apples, (golden pippins) in halves, to which give the shape of cups, which stew in a thick syrup until nearly tender, but not to break, then place the apples upon the pyramid, make eighteen small tartelettes (No. 1155) of thin gum paste, small enough to fix in each cup of apple, and dress them in pyramid upon the others; when ready to serve cover the whole with thick syrup, pour a teaspoonful of brandy into each tartelette, with some in the dish, which set on fire at the moment of going to table, it has a very pleasing effect.

No. 1283. Pommes au Beurre.

Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in quarters and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire, moving occasionally until quite tender, have ready buttered a plain dome mould, put the apples into it, pressing them down a little close; when half cold turn it out of the mould upon a dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold it is ready to serve.

No. 1284. Miroton de Pommes.

Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and take out the cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate fire; when done dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve.

No. 1285. Beignets de Pommes.

Make a paste as follows: put a pound of sifted flour into a basin, with which mix a good half pint of water, mix it with a wooden spoon until very smooth, then have an ounce and a half of butter melted in a stewpan, which stir into it, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff, which also stir in gently, then have six russet apples, which cut in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel them and take out the cores with a round cutter, dip each piece separately into the batter, when completely but thinly enveloped drop them into a stewpan of hot lard, to fry them well, the lard should not at first be too hot, but become hotter as they proceed in cooking, proceeding thus till you have fried the whole of them a nice light brown colour, drain them upon a cloth, then lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze them with the salamander, serve dressed in a double crown upon a napkin.

No. 1286. Beignets d’Oranges.

Prepare a paste or batter as in the last, then peel eight middling-sized oranges, quarter them, without breaking the thin skin that divides them, and take off all the white pith, dip each piece singly into the batter, and then into a stewpan of hot lard; fry of a nice light colour, drain upon a napkin, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze with the salamander, and serve them dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

The fruit for any description of fritters may be soaked in any liqueur for half an hour before they are required, but it often prevents their being well fried.

No. 1287. Beignets de Pêches.

Skin and cut in halves twelve ripe but firm peaches, take out the stones and put the peaches into a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, toss them together lightly, but not to break the peaches; have a batter prepared as in the last, in which dip each piece of peach separately, fry them in lard, not too hot, glaze and serve precisely as in the last.

No. 1288. Beignets d’Abricots.

Gut twelve or fourteen apricots in halves, put them into a basin with a little powdered sugar, and proceed exactly as for beignets de pêches.

No. 1289. Croquettes de Riz.

Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover the stewpan and let simmer very slowly until quite tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar weighing a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite fine, add it to the rice, with the yolks of eight eggs (mix well), stir them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number of small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to fancy; have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece in singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a knife, dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a wire basket, which put in a stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light brown colour, drain on a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin, and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them.

No. 1290. Croquettes de Crème au Riz.

Proceed precisely as in the last, only using ground rice instead of whole, they are finished and served exactly the same.

No. 1291. Croquettes de Macaroni.

Blanch six ounces of macaroni in half a gallon of boiling water until tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold water; when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which you have infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the croquettes de riz.

No. 1292. Croquettes de Vermicelle.

Put six ounces of vermicelli in a stewpan with a pint and a half of milk, boil until very tender and becoming thick, keeping it stirred with a spoon, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of a Seville orange has been rubbed, and two ounces of butter, stir well in, add the yolks of eight eggs, and proceed as directed in the last article.

Croquettes of semolina may also be made the same way.

No. 1298. Crème Frite à la Patissière.

Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a wooden spoon; then add a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by degrees and place it over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens, add an ounce of butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed ratafias, a little orange-flower-water, and three whole eggs, mix the whole well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a sauté-pan, previously oiled, and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same as for croquettes, fry them in the same manner, dress upon a napkin as high as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be flavoured also with vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape according to fancy.

No. 1294. Beignets Soufflés à la Vanille.

Place half a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling put in a fresh stick of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan, let it infuse ten minutes, then take out the vanilla and add rather more than an ounce of butter, place it again upon the fire, and when boiling stir in quickly six ounces of flour; dry the paste well over the fire, keeping it from sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, then take it off and stir in six whole eggs gradually, and six ounces of powdered sugar; have ready a stewpan of hot lard, into which drop the above mixture in pieces about the size of small walnuts, fry a nice colour, and when quite done drain them upon a cloth, and serve upon a napkin with sifted sugar over; they may also be flavoured with orange-flower-water.

No. 1295. Frangipane.

Put six whole eggs in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of flour, beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add a pint of milk or cream, and keep stirring over the fire until it becomes thick and upon the point of boiling; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of an orange or lemon has been rubbed, two ounces of crushed ratafias, and a small glass of brandy (mix well); put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when getting a little brown stir it into the frangipane, which is then ready for use; it may be flavoured also with vanilla or any of the flavours used for such purposes.

No. 1296. Omelettes à la Célestine.

Put a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of flour together in a basin, which well mix with four eggs till smooth, then add nearly half a pint of milk; have ready an omelette-pan, in which put a small piece of butter, when the pan is quite hot pour in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, which let spread all over the pan, when quite set and of a light brown colour underneath, turn it over upon the bottom of a stewpan-lid, previously buttered, and again from that upon a cloth, proceeding thus with the whole mixture, then spread a teaspoonful of apricot marmalade upon each; have ready some frangipane as directed in the last, quite hot, lay a piece the size of a small sausage upon each, and fold them up neatly, trim the ends, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze lightly with the salamander, dress them in crown, or in pyramid upon your dish, and serve very hot.

No. 1297. Pannequets à la Confiture.

Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour into a basin with four eggs, mix them together very smoothly, then add half a pint of milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of butter in your pan (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, place it upon the fire, and when coloured upon one side turn it over, then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the marmalade, being then the common pancake.

REMOVES. SECOND COURSE.

My readers could not have failed to remark the numerous innovations in all classes of dishes throughout this work, which nothing but constant study, practice, and profound knowledge of the art could have brought to perfection. In the following Removes still greater innovations will be found than in any other department, for I have always aimed at producing the greatest effect upon the last dishes sent to table, particularly as they are the ones over which each convive has time to pass remarks, and admire, if properly executed. The transformation of the second course from the first has never failed to give the greatest satisfaction, and has often caused the greatest hilarity at table; some parties, unacquainted with them, have ordered their removal, thinking they belonged to the first course, whilst others have actually carved them before discovering their mistake. And, again, those Removes being only demi-glacé, and not too sweet, refresh the palate, disposes it more favorably for the dessert, and does not prevent the freely partaking of the ices which there cannot be avoided. Any kind of ice pudding, however excellent when done to perfection, is too close an imitation of the dessert ices, and properly belong to the confectioner.

To regenerate that finish of the dinner, which is very properly much thought of in England, it only requires a little artistic feeling, which is soon acquired by practice and perseverance. To simplify them as much as possible, I have only described one sort of sponge-cake, which is always varied in flavour by the different kinds of fruits and ices with which they are filled.

The introduction of atelettes of fruit in the Removes as well as in the jellies, is also quite a new idea, and renders the appearance of both very novel as well as very handsome.

No. 1298. Gateau Britannique à l’Amiral.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs as directed (No. 1369), have a tin mould in the shape of a vessel, which paper well at the sides, to prevent the mixture running over whilst baking (the mould requires to be eighteen inches in length, six in breadth, and high in proportion); butter and lightly flour the interior of the mould, into which pour the mixture, which bake an hour and a half in a moderate oven (this cake requires to be baked a day or two before using); mask the exterior with chocolate iceing (No. 1383) to imitate the colour of a ship, when quite dry partly empty the interior,[16] leaving a piece across in the centre, to fix the mast upon, which you have made of pâte d’office (No. 1137), as also the ladders, rigging, and guns, by rolling pieces of the paste to the thickness required with the hands, cutting them to the lengths required, and baking them a light colour in a moderate oven; mask the guns with chocolate iceing, made rather darker than for the cake, and form the muzzles with small rings of puff paste, place them judiciously at the sides, as also the mast and rigging at their respective places (see design), place the vessel upon a dish, laying rather upon one side, lay rolls of gelée à la bacchante (No. 1240) round, over which lay thin slices of the same to form waves, make the sails of wafer or rice-paper, fix them to the mast as if filled with wind, upon the side the vessel is laying on, have also a flag made of the same material, painted with a little water-colour, which place at the stern; well soak the interior with wine and brandy, mixed with apricot marmalade, just before serving, and when ready fill with a delicate vanilla ice (No. 1381); you have previously formed some ropes of spun sugar, which affix to the rigging at the moment of serving.

This dish has a pleasing effect, and, unlike many ornamental dishes, the whole of it is eatable. It may be rather difficult for many, but with a few trials, aided by the above directions, I flatter myself it may be easily accomplished, but of course a great deal depends upon the taste of the person employed, who, if they could not accomplish one thing, would resort to another, and succeed in making a very handsome dish. Should you have no mould to bake the cake in, bake it in something as near as you can to the size, and afterwards shape it with a knife; and, again, should it be inconvenient to make the green jelly for garnishing, any other description of white clear jelly may be used. The remains and trimmings are very good made into cabinet pudding.

No. 1299. Hure de Sanglier glacé en surprise,

Or mock boar’s head; this dish, although more simple than the last, is no less pleasing. Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), which bake (in an oval baking-dish or common tin dish-cover) nearly two hours; the cake requires to be ten inches in thickness at one end, and about six at the other (which may be accomplished by tilting the dish slightly upon one end to bake the cake); the next day cut it into the shape of a dressed boar’s head with a knife, then carefully take out the interior to within an inch of the surface, in as large pieces as possible, put the pieces back again to keep the cake in its proper shape, turn it over upon the bottom of a large dish, and mask it all over with a chocolate iceing as near as possible to the colour of the real boar’s head, form the eyes with white iceing, placing a dried cherry in the centre, and forming the eyelashes with thin fillets of pistachios, make the tusks of gum paste (No. 1139) or pâte d’office (No. 1137), and the ears of puff paste (No. 1132), by working it a little with the hands, giving them their shape, and baking them upon two round cutters of a corresponding size, fix them with a stiffish paste made of flour and white of eggs, when done, upon the head, and mask them also with chocolate iceing; fix in the tusks, and when well dried and ready to serve empty the interior, which soak with a little brandy, and fill with a lemon-cream ice (No. 1385) in which you have introduced four glasses of curaçoa, turn it over upon a silver dish, glaze over with currant jelly, melted and mixed with a little wine, and garnish with gelée au citron (No. 1225) made reddish with a little cochineal, to give it the colour of a brown aspic (No. 1360), form some bold design upon the top (between the eyes) with it in croutons, and the remainder chopped and also in croutons around.

No. 1300. Cigne glacé en surprise.

Make a large sponge-cake of forty eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it in a large oval tin dish-cover (about two hours and a half would be the time required), and the next day cut it with your knife into the form of the body of a swan (leaving a space in the breast down the front for the neck), empty the interior as in the last; ice it over with a white iceing, and when upon the point of setting ruffle it with the prongs of a fork in imitation of feathers, form the head and neck of pâte d’office (No. 1137) by rolling out a piece with the hands of sufficient length and proportionate thickness to form the neck, being rather thicker at one end than at the other; cut it in halves lengthwise, placing them upon a buttered baking-sheet, the cut side downwards, model each half head with taste separately, form each piece exactly alike, and of the same size for the neck, being somewhat in the form of the letter S, but finishing quite straight at the bottom, bake them in a moderate oven, and when done join them together with a paste made of flour and white of egg, with which also affix it to the dish you intend serving it upon (previously scraping the bottom of the neck quite flat with a knife), mask it over with a white iceing, and when upon the point of setting ruffle it with the prongs of a fork, and set in a warm place until dry; an hour before serving pour some gelée au maresquin (No. 1227) cold, but not set, into the dish, filling it to the inner rim, and stand it in a cold place until set; when ready to serve empty the interior of the body, which soak with three glasses of maresquino and three of brandy; fill with a vanilla ice (No. 1381), with which you have mixed two ounces of citron, two ounces of angelica, two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, the citron and angelica cut into dice, and all soaked three hours in maresquino and brandy; turn it over on your dish upon the jelly, fixing it neatly to the neck, you have previously made some sucre filé (No. 1380), with which form the wings and tail, and fix in their respective places, whip about a quart more of the jelly as above upon ice until upon the point of setting, and with it, when set, form a kind of foam at the breast, diminishing it at the sides by degrees, in imitation of waves caused by the bird swimming.

No. 1301. Jambon glacé en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty-four eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it in a mould of the shape of a ham, or in a baking-dish, having a cake about six inches in thickness, and when cold cutting it with a knife in the shape of a ham, empty the interior as before, mask the exterior with chocolate iceing as near to the colour of real cooked ham as possible, over which sprinkle a few chopped pistachios and crushed ratafias, in imitation of chopped parsley and bread-crumbs; you have reserved a little of the iceing, with which mix some more melted chocolate, making it a very dark brown, it will when cool form a kind of paste, with which form a part of the skin of a ham left upon the knuckle end, cut in points when dry and ready to serve, line the interior with apricot marmalade, soak it a little with brandy, fill it with apricot ice (No. 1387), turn over upon your dish, glaze with a little melted currant jelly, form a star of clear brownish calf’s-foot jelly upon the top, flavoured according to taste, with some chopped and in croutons around, run a skewer in at the knuckle, upon which place a paper frill, and serve.

No. 1302. Gigot de Mouton bouilli glacé en surprise.

Make a cake of the same size as the last, but bake it in a smaller compass, that is, more round and smaller at one end than at the other; the next day form it with your knife into the shape of a leg of mutton, mask it over with a white iceing in which you have introduced a very little chocolate, to give it the colour as near as possible of the fat of a leg of mutton when boiled (having previously emptied the interior); form the knuckle-bone of pâte d’office, and imitate the lean part with some chocolate iceing; when dry and ready to serve, soak the interior with four spoonfuls of preserved greengages, mixed with two glasses of sherry, and fill it with strawberry ice (No. 1388); turn it over upon your dish, place a paper frill upon the knuckle, surround it with gelée mousseuse (No. 1232) in broken pieces, to imitate mashed turnips, and a few apples dressed as for pommes à la Trianon (No. 1280), to imitate whole ones; make also a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a pint of milk (as directed for crème au maresquin, omitting the isinglass), to which, when cold and thickish, add an ounce of very green pistachios, blanched and coarsely chopped in imitation of capers, which pour over the cake previous to garnishing.

No. 1303. Selle de Mouton à la Jardinière en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake with the same quantity of eggs as in the last, which bake in a long square baking-dish, or form a square in a round one with bands of paper, fixing them in their place with pieces of common paste against the side of the dish; the next day form it with a knife to the shape of a saddle of mutton, trussed as for roasting (as near as possible), ice it as in the last, but rather darker, with chocolate, to imitate a real one when roasted (imitate it from a real one should you have one); you have previously emptied the interior, form the lean parts with darker coloured chocolate iceing, and the flaps by graining it with a knife; when dry and ready to serve fill with apricot ice (No. 1387), turn it over upon your dish, garnish with a custard made as for vanilla ice (No. 1381), but coloured brown with a little melted chocolate, to which add a quantity of fruits, dressed as directed for chartreuse de pommes (No. 1272), thus imitating a sauce with vegetables; green currants passed in sugar, and mixed with and served in the custard, make a very good imitation of peas.

No. 1304. Cotelettes de Mouton glacé en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake of eighteen eggs as directed (No. 1369), which bake in a baking-dish so that the cake shall be about four inches in thickness; when baked and cold cut it in thin slices, lay them upon your table, and spread apricot marmalade upon each alternate slice, then lay those slices without the marmalade upon the others, press gently together and cut them into pieces about three inches in length and one and a half in breadth, of the shape of cotelettes, using a round cutter to form the circle of the cotelette, have ready some thin light chocolate iceing in a basin and some ratafia-crumbs in a dish, mask the cotelettes lightly with the chocolate iceing and throw them into the crumbs, take them out, pat them gently with your knife, put a piece of blanched almond in the end to imitate the bone, and put them upon a baking-sheet in the screen to dry; when ready make a thin border of apricot or any other marmalade on a silver dish, upon which dress the cotelettes in border, garnish round with strawberry jelly, chopped and in croutons, and serve with a vanilla ice dressed very high in the centre.

No. 1305. Haunch of Lamb glacé en surprise.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty-six eggs, which bake in a very long mould; when cold cut it into the form of a haunch of lamb (or it may be baked in two separate pieces and afterwards joined together with the iceing), empty the interior, which again put into the cake to keep it in shape, mask it over with an iceing of a light gold colour, made by adding a little melted chocolate and cochineal; when dry and ready to serve moisten with some brandy and preserved strawberries, and fill with strawberry or vanilla ice (Nos. 1381, 1388), place a frill upon the knuckle-bone, which you have previously formed of pâte d’office, glaze it over with apricot marmalade and currant jelly mixed, pour a little melted currant jelly mixed with wine, in imitation of gravy, round and serve.

No. 1306. Shoulder of Lamb glacé en surprise

Is very good for a small party; make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twelve eggs, bake it in a flat sauté-pan, and when done and cold form it into the shape of a shoulder, empty a little from the interior, fix on the knuckle, which you have formed of pâte d’office (No. 1137), and mask the whole over with nearly a white iceing to imitate a boiled shoulder of lamb; when dry and ready to serve dish it up with vanilla ice (No. 1381) in the interior, and round in imitation of mashed turnips.

No. 1307. Cotelettes d'Agneau à la Réforme en surprise aux Champignons.

Make a sponge-cake as directed for cotelettes de mouton en surprise (No. 1304), cut it into pieces of the same shape, but much smaller; mask them over lightly with apricot marmalade, and dip them into ratafia crumbs, it will give them a lighter appearance; form the bone with strips of blanched almonds, and dress them the reverse way on your dish upon a border of marmalade, melt some currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix some syrup of pineapples, put in forty thin strips of pineapples, forty ditto of green angelica, and forty preserved cherries, pour it over the cotelettes, and when set and ready to serve fill the centre with a lemon ice (No. 1385), and garnish with some mushrooms of meringues (No. 1222).

No. 1308. Chapon en surprise glacé aux Fruits.

Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs, bake it in a long roundish mould, or an old tin dish-cover; when done and quite cold form it with your knife into the shape of a roasted capon trussed, with the legs inside; form the pinions of the wings with pâte d’office, stick them to the sides in their proper position, then mask it over with a light chocolate iceing in which you have introduced a little prepared cochineal, to give it the colour as near as possible of a roast capon; you have previously emptied it, and again filled it to keep it in shape, but when perfectly dry again empty it and line the interior with orange marmalade, soak it with a little wine, fill the interior with an orange cream ice (No. 1386) flavoured with noyeau, turn it over upon a silver dish, garnish round with pears dressed as for poires au riz (No. 1277), mixing their syrup with a little apricot marmalade, and pouring it over them; you have made a croustade of pâte d’office, in imitation of the one of bread, in the form of a gondolière, upon which place a few strawberries, a peach, and cherries, which place at the head of the dish with silver atelettes of fruit upon it, and serve. To form a good imitation of a capon, you require to have a real one before you, or at least a fowl, if possible.

No. 1309. Petits Poussins en surprise à la Sutherland.

Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), and when finished stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter (melted) very gently, bake it in three oval moulds, each about the size of a large chicken; when quite cold cut each one into the shape and size of a spring chicken trussed as for boiling, (having a real one as a model,) empty the interiors, place it in again to keep them in shape, mask them all over with a white iceing (No. 1373) to which you have added a little brown brandy instead of lemon-juice; you have previously formed the claws of pâte d’office (No. 1137) and baked them, fix them at the sides in their proper positions and place them to dry, you have also made three cakes of Génoise paste (No. 1201) of the same size as the above, and when cold cut two of them into the form of Russian tongues, well trussed, and make them with a chocolate iceing as near as possible to the colour of real tongues, with the cake cut a croustade in imitation of a bread croustade, mask it with a very light chocolate iceing, and ornament it with small designs of puff paste baked very white, or gum paste, place it at the head of your dish; when ready to serve, fix three silver atelettes of fruits (see Plate) upon the top; again empty the interior of the imitation chickens and fill them with a crème plombière (No. 1332), place two of them with their tails towards the croustades, with a fine bunch of black grapes hanging from it, then the two imitation tongues, which glaze over with melted currant jelly, then the other imitation chicken between them, place the remainder of the crème plombière round and between, place a fine red strawberry with the stalk on here and there, and serve with a thickish custard in which you have introduced two glasses of noyeau over each.

No. 1310. Dindonneau en surprise à la Gondolièrs.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty eggs, which bake (in an old tin dish-cover) in a moderate oven; when done turn it out upon a sieve, and when quite cold cut it into the shape of a trussed turkey, (having a real one for a model, which may be used in the first course, these dishes only being appropriated to large dinners,) which mask over with a chocolate iceing to imitate as near as possible the colour of a roasted turkey, having previously emptied the interior, which again place in to keep its shape, form the claws with pâte d’office (No. 1137), and cover them with a little of the iceing made darker with a little more chocolate, make a nice croustade of Génoise paste (No. 1201), the shape of the head of a gondola, which fix at the head of the dish, again empty the cake, soak the interior with brandy and apricot marmalade, fill with an apricot cream half iced, turn over upon your dish, garnish round with a red mousseuse jelly in croutons, and small pears cut in halves and stewed as directed (No. 1145), glaze over with currant jelly melted with a little wine, and serve.

No. 1311. Peacock à la Louis Quatorze.

Make a cake of the same size as in the last, bake the same, and when done and cold cut in the shape of the body of a large bird, mask it over with a pinkish white iceing, rather thick, having previously emptied it; have ready blanched a quarter of a pound of pistachios (very green), make the neck and head of pâte d’office in two separate halves lengthwise, as directed for the swan, only giving the head the shape of a peacock, bake a light colour, and join them together with a paste made of whites of eggs and flour, fix it upon the dish with the same paste, having formed the bottom so that the body will adhere closely and unperceivedly to it, mask it with the same iceing, cut the pistachios in flat fillets, and stick them into the neck to form feathers, you have previously mixed a quantity of red and green sugar (No. 1376) together, which sprinkle thickly over the body of the bird; when dry, again empty the interior, which moisten with Malaga wine and brandy, fill with strawberry ice (No. 1388), turn over upon your dish, fitting it to the head and neck, form the wings with sucre filé (No. 1380), also the tail, fix the skins of some of the cherries upon the tail to imitate feathers. Any one perfect in sugar will form the tail open, which will produce a magnificent effect; have some very light jelly flavoured with gold water, (containing plenty of gold leaves,) chop it into rather small pieces, with which lightly cover the body of the bird; the crown of the head and eyes must be well imitated with sucre filé, a small black currant imitating the balls of the eyes, garnish round tastefully with croutons of the above jelly and serve.

No. 1312. Faisans en surprise glacé au Chocolat.

Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twenty eggs, which bake in two separate oval moulds; when cold cut them into the shape of two pheasants trussed as for roasting, empty each one as before, putting the pieces again in to keep them in shape, make the legs and pinions of the wings with pâte d’office (No. 1137), mask them over with chocolate iceing (No. 1374), imitating as near as possible the colour of roasted pheasants, making the legs darker than the body, imitate larding upon the breast with some blanched sweet almonds cut into thin strips of about equal sizes; when dry and ready to serve line the interiors with currant jelly, and fill with a crème glacée au chocolat (No. 1383), or au café Moka (No. 1382), turn them over upon your dish and garnish with some jelly (No. 1225), chopped and in croutons round; white strawberries and pieces of apples prepared as for the chartreuse de pommes (No. 1272), and soaked in brandy, may be served with the ice in the interior.

No. 1313. Maniveau de Champignons glacé en surprise.

Make a basket of pâte d’office (No. 1137), which is done by rolling out a piece of the paste to three quarters of an inch in thickness, with length and breadth corresponding to the size of your dish, place it in a baking-sheet, put it in a moderate oven, and when about half baked cut an odd number of holes all round near to the edge with a long vegetable cutter a quarter of an inch in diameter, then form a number of pegs of the same paste to fit into the holes when baked, and all of equal lengths, roll out a number of cords of the same paste as long as possible and the thickness of blanched macaroni, which plait round the pegs, going in and out one upon the other until you have reached the top and formed a rustic basket, let it stand some time to get dry, then bake it in a moderate oven; when done and cold glaze it over with some red currant jelly, dress a pineapple ice (No. 1384) in the centre in pyramid, which cover all over with mushrooms of meringues (No. 1222), building them in clusters as high as possible; garnish round with a gelée au rhum (No. 1231) chopped and in croutons, and serve.

No. 1314. Turban de Condé glacé à l’Ananas.

Make a pound of puff paste into condé as directed (No. 1183), make a thin border of any kind of marmalade upon a silver dish, on which dress the condé in turban, that is, standing upon end, one resting upon the other, dress a pineapple cream ice (No. 1384) in the centre in pyramid, garnish round with orange jelly in the skins of the oranges (No. 1237); cut in quarters and serve.

No. 1315. Bombe demi glacé à la Mogador.

Make a good vanilla ice as directed (No. 1381), well flavoured with maresquino, have a large round pewter ice-mould which opens in two halves, partly fill each half, leaving a hollow in the centre of each, which fill with all kinds of small fruits, grapes, strawberries, currants, Smyrna raisins, &c., soaked in maresquino, close the mould, (having it sufficiently filled to form a ball when turned out,) and bury it in ice and salt, then make a thin ornamented border of pâte d’office (No. 1137) an inch in height, which fix upon a silver dish and bake in a moderate oven, place it somewhere for the dish to get cold; when ready to serve, dip the mould into lukewarm water, and turn the ice quickly out in the centre of your dish, you have previously prepared some finely-spun sugar (sucre filé, No. 1380), with which form a fusee, stick it in the top of the ice, twisting it round, bringing the other end near the edge of the dish, pour half a pint of brandy in your dish outside of the border of paste, which set on fire at the moment of going to table; the fire will require to burn the sugar, which will give it quite the appearance of a fusee; it would, however, be better that the brandy should not be set on fire until it reached the dining-room.

No. 1316. Cérito’s Sultane Sylphe à la Fille de l’Orage.

Procure a half oval-pointed mould about fifteen inches in height, ten inches by eight in diameter at the bottom, and the size of a five-shilling piece at the top, which bury to the rim in ice with which you have mixed plenty of salt, hue the interior with a sheet of white paper, laying it in closely to fit the mould, have ready a pint of cream mixed rather stiffly, with which you have mixed a meringue mixture of three eggs, as for the biscuit glacé (No. 1318), spread it all over the interior of the mould to about an inch in thickness, place a cover over the mould made to fit tight, over which place some ice, and leave it one hour, when it will be quite frozen, take off the lid, have ready a nice cherry or strawberry cream ice (No. 1388), place a little at the bottom of the mould, upon which lay a few fresh strawberries, then more ice, proceeding thus until quite full, place the cover again over, fixing it tight, bury it in ice and salt, and leave it an hour, or till wanted, when dip it into very lukewarm water, turn it out upon your dish, take off the paper, have ready a silver atelette (see atelette of fruits in the Plate), upon which you have placed some fine fresh fruit, that is, a peach with a bunch of fine black grapes resting over, and a few red currants or strawberries beneath, which stick into the top, have ready some finely-spun sugar (sucre filé, No. 1380), which twine round lightly like rolls of gauze (see design), not, however, covering the whole of it, and at the moment of serving lay a fine bunch of black grapes upon each side on vine-leaves; have some very light gelée de Dantzic (No. 1226) chopped finely, with which garnish round, sprinkling some over the grapes, but not too heavy, and serve as quickly as possible. As soon as it is turned out of the mould you had better set the dish upon the ice and salt you took it from (pouring off all the water) whilst ornamenting, and it would be better to make a border of pâte d’office upon your dish as in the last, but smaller, to prevent it sliding about when carried to table, which would upset the garniture.

No. 1317. Gateau glacé à l’Eloise.

Bury a mould in ice as in the last, then whip a quart of double cream very stiff, to which add a very little powdered sugar and two glasses of noyeau, put it in a freezing-pot, and when about three parts frozen line the mould as in the last, make a custard with eight yolks of eggs as for vanilla ice (No. 1381), to which add a little clarified isinglass (No. 1372), stir it upon the ice, and when becoming thickish add two glasses of noyeau, half a pint of whipped cream, and half a pound of cherries, stoned, and passed in sugar as directed (No. 1144), only dry well before adding them to the custard, which must be kept as white as possible, place it in the centre of your mould, which cover up and bury in ice until wanted; when ready, dip the mould in lukewarm water, turn it out upon your dish, stick a few fine cherries here and there over it, prepare another custard of four yolks of eggs, which pour all over and serve. The garnishing of these dishes must be effected very quickly, as they require to be served the moment they are turned out.

No. 1318. Biscuit Mousseux glacé, en caisse.

Make a custard of six yolks of eggs as directed for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), but omitting three parts of the sugar; put into your freezing-pot, and when half frozen have ready the following preparation: boil a quarter of a pound of sugar au cassé (No. 1379), have ready five whites of eggs whipped very stiff, with which mix the sugar by degrees; when quite cold mix with the custard, adding half a pint of whipped cream and three glasses of any white liqueur, freeze the whole together, keeping the pot twisted until you have obtained a good consistency; have ready a number of small round paper cases,[17] place a band of paper round each, half an inch above the top, and fill with the above preparation; place them in a flat tin box, sprinkle ratafia crumbs upon the top of each, place the lid upon the box, which must close very tight, and bury it in ice and salt for six hours; when ready to serve, take them out of the box, detach the bands of paper from them, dress upon a napkin, and serve. They will have every appearance of having just left the oven.

No. 1319. Souffle glacé au Curaçoa.

Proceed exactly as in the last, only using curaçoa instead of a white liqueur; place it in a middling-sized silver soufflé-dish, surround it with a band of paper, sprinkle crushed ratafias over the top, place it in the box, which cover and bury in ice, and salt eight hours; when ready to serve take off the band of paper, and dress it upon a napkin on a silver dish.

No. 1320. Pouding Soufflé glacé à la Méphistopheles.

Proceed precisely as in the last, place in a dish of the same description, and whilst buried in ice make a cover from a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of four yolks of eggs, very firm, a large spoonful of which place upon a sheet of paper, forming it round, three inches in diameter, and the remainder in a paper cornet or horn, cut off the point of one, leaving a point the size of a sixpenny-piece, with which work a spiral line round the meringue until you have formed a cover large enough for the soufflé-case, sift sugar over it, and bake in a very slow oven; when done turn it gently over in your hand, take off the paper, empty the interior lightly, and place it to dry in a very slow oven (it might be made the day before); make a border of pâte d’office upon a silver dish as for the bombe glacé (No. 1315), bake in a warm oven; when ready to serve take the soufflé from the ice, take off the paper, stand it in a dish of ice and salt to reach the rim of the soufflé-case; place on the cover, which must be quite cold and crisp, and place it in the oven until the meringue cover is warm, when take it out, stand it in the centre of your dish, pour half a pint of brandy upon the dish outside of the border of paste, which set on fire upon its going into the dining-room.

No. 1321. Brioche.

Put four pounds of flour upon a marble slab, one pound of which place upon one side, with an ounce of German yeast dissolved in a gill of warm water in the centre, mix the yeast well with your fingers, add a little more water, and mix the flour into a stiffish but delicate paste, which roll up in the shape of a ball, cut an incision across it with a knife, place it in a basin well floured and put it into a warmish place for ten minutes or longer, until becoming very light, make a large hole in the centre of the remainder of the flour, in which put half an ounce of salt, half a gill of water, two pounds and a half of fresh butter, and sixteen eggs, mix the eggs and butter well together, and work in the flour by degrees, if too stiff add more eggs, the paste must be kept rather softish, press it out with, your hands by degrees, lay the leaven upon it, which spread over, bring the ends over with your knife, press it out again and fold over until well mixed, sprinkle some flour upon a clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night; when ready to use throw some flour upon your pastry slab, turn your paste out upon it and work it up together with your hands, then cut a piece, which mould into a ball with the hands, place it upon a piece of buttered paper on a baking-sheet, make an impression with your hand in the centre, mould another ball of the paste two thirds the size of the former, wet the former ball with a little water, fix the other upon it, press gently, egg over with a paste-brush, make a few incisions round with a knife, and put it in a moderate oven, (it will require about two hours baking, to try when done run a thin wooden skewer into it, if done it will come out perfectly dry,) bake of a nice gold colour. Many small cakes, rissoles, &c., are made from this paste. By buttering a middle-sized stewpan, putting a band of paper four inches in height round, and baking the paste in it, it will of itself make a remove, but of course requiring longer baking.

No. 1322. Baba.

This cake is made of the same description of paste as the last, but using six more eggs, as it requires to be softer, and working lightly with your hand about ten minutes before adding the leaven, to which add a teaspoonful of powdered saffron; you have also picked and cleaned a quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins, half a pound of Malaga, a quarter of a pound of currants, and a little candied orange, lemon-peel, and citron, cut into thin slices, soak the whole in half a pint of Madeira wine and three glasses of brandy or rum, and mix with the paste, working together lightly with the hands, have buttered a large sponge-cake mould, or stewpan, place a band of paper three inches in height round the rim, put it into a warm place for two or three hours, or until raised nearly to the top of the mould, stand it upon a trivet in a warmish oven, and bake about three hours, ascertaining when done with a skewer, as in the last; your paste must not be made too thin, or all the fruit would fall to the bottom and spoil its appearance. Take off the band of paper, turn the baba over upon a hair sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Previously to mixing the fruit with the paste you may line the interior of the mould very thinly with some of it, mix the fruit with the remainder and fill, this process will prevent the cake sticking to the mould, as the fruit will sometimes cause it to do, but gives rather too much the appearance of brioche when on the table.

No. 1323. Brioche au Fromage.

Make the paste as directed (No. 1321), but rather softer, and when ready for use mix in a pound of Gruyère cheese cut into small dice, with half a pound of grated Parmesan and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, mould it as for the brioche, put it into a buttered stewpan as there directed, egg lightly, place in a moderate oven, and bake it about two hours of a fine gold colour, (but try whether done or not as before,) and serve very hot. The same paste with cheese may likewise be served in small cakes, making fifteen or sixteen from the same quantity of paste, or cutting up a large one with different shape-cutters into the same number of pieces, and placing them in a hot oven upon a baking-sheet (when the first course comes off the table) until very hot and becoming rather brown, dress them upon a napkin on your dish, and send very hot to table, with another napkin over them, which should not be removed until placed upon the table.

No. 1324. Brioche frite au Vin de Madère.

Make a brioche as directed (No. 1321), which when cold cut into pieces a quarter of an inch in thickness, and of the shape and size of small fillets of fowl, have ready four yolks of eggs in a dish, with which you have mixed a gill of good cream, have also clarified half a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of which put into a deep sauté-pan over the fire; when hot dip eight pieces of the brioche into the eggs and cream quickly, and fry them in the sauté-pan of a light yellow colour, proceeding thus until they are all done, dress them in crown upon your dish on a border of apricot marmalade, and place it in the oven to keep hot, put half a pound of the marmalade in a stewpan, and when melted add a pint of Madeira wine; when boiling pour over the brioche and serve very hot. The remainder of a brioche or baba from a preceding dinner may be used for the above purpose. In serving a brioche or baba to table as a remove I strongly recommend the above method, as very few, even after a sumptuous dinner, could resist the temptations of this delicious dish, so well blended with the apricot and Madeira, whilst brioche or baba served entire cannot invigorate the appetite, and is not, in my opinion, exactly the kind of food to suit an already nearly satisfied stomach. They are, however, excellent for breakfasts, luncheons, and ball suppers, where every person composes their meal according to their fancy.

No. 1325. Nougat aux Fraises.

Blanch three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds in boiling water, and a quarter of a pound of pistachios, separate, take off the skins and cut each almond into five or six fillets, and the pistachios in two, place them upon a sheet of paper and dry in a warm oven until the almonds become a light straw colour, but taking the pistachios out earlier, then put a pound of sifted sugar into a copper pan and stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon until melted, then throw in your almonds, (which must be hot,) and stir until well mixed, taking it off the fire, you have previously slightly oiled a large Savoy-cake mould, put in part of the mixture, which press to the sides with a lemon, then the remainder in small pieces, pressing the whole to the sides, forming it into one piece the thickness of a five-shilling piece, and when cold turn it out from the shape upon a dish, whip a quart of cream very stiff, which dress upon the dish you intend serving the nougat on, in pyramid, place some very fine strawberries upon it and the nougat over, have a little sugar boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), have also a few very fine strawberries, with the stalks on, as the green is an improvement, dip the stalks of the strawberries into the sugar, place one upon the top and the others all over, at the distance of two inches apart, fixing them in a drooping position, it is then ready to serve. The above makes a handsome remove, the pistachios, almonds, and strawberries correcting the taste of the melted sugar; if not convenient, the pistachios may be omitted, but adding more almonds in proportion. The sugar may be flavoured with lemon vanilla or candied orange-flowers.

No. 1326. Croque en bouche.

Make some paste as directed for pâte à choux (No. 1194), not, however, using so much butter, and adding a little more flour, drying it well in the stewpan, and adding sufficient eggs to make it of the same consistency as there directed, flavouring with sugar upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, form about a hundred and fifty small balls the size of marbles, upon two baking-sheets, egg them over and bake very dry in a moderate oven of a light gold colour, then have some sugar boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), oil a large Savoy-cake mould lightly, place one of the petits choux upon a trussing-needle, dip it in the sugar, fix it at the bottom in the centre of your mould, then dip in the remainder one after the other, placing them round the interior of the mould, one adhering to the other until the mould is filled up, (to facilitate the building of them have your sugar in two different sugar-pans, being careful that it does not grain, for if the sugar is not quite clear and crisp it would stick to the mould, and your croque en bouche tumble to pieces,) when quite cold try gently with both hands to move it, just enough to detach it, turn it out carefully upon a napkin, and serve with whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar under it. The above when well made makes a pretty remove, but scarcely fit to eat, it being a mass of sugar without any relief to the palate. Although not a great admirer of nougat, the almonds certainly form a relief; a croque en bouche of oranges or any other fruit is a little more commendable, but is very difficult to succeed with, and do not in reality repay in quality the trouble they give; such dishes, in my opinion, being fit only for children who are fond of sugar-plums.

No. 1327. Meringue Pagodatique à la Chinoise.

Have ready prepared a meringue mixture of fifteen eggs (No. 1218), with which make six rings upon paper, (laying them out with a paper cornet or funnel, in the bottom of which you have cut a hole of the circumference of a shilling,) the three largest to be eight inches in diameter, the next one six and a half inches, the next five, and the smallest three and a half inches in diameter, and the whole of them an inch in thickness, have some of the preparation in a small paper cornet with a hole at the bottom of the size of a pea, with which ornament the rings, laying small fillets of it over them, then with the large paper cornet lay out four other pieces of an octagonal form, (to imitate the top of a Chinese pagoda, which may easily be accomplished if the mixture is firm, as it may then be laid out into any shape desired,) leaving a ring in the centre, making the largest rather larger than the largest ring, diminishing the size in proportion to the other rings, and piping them according to fancy with the smaller paper cornet with which also form sixteen little bells by pressing an upright dot from it upon paper, and pulling the cornet up quickly, making the four largest half an inch in height and a quarter of an inch in width, and making each four a size smaller in proportion; bake the whole of the preparations (first sifting sugar over them) upon boards in a very slow oven, scarcely allowing them to obtain any colour; when baked and crisp place them in a hot closet until perfectly dry, when take them out, wet the back of the papers lightly with a paste-brush and carefully detach the meringues from them, which again put into the hot closet until quite crisp, then fix the bells, the largest upon the largest octagonal piece at the corners, and the smaller upon the smaller pieces, by running a needle with a piece of white silk through them, and fastening them with a little boiled sugar or isinglass when upon the point of setting; when ready to serve place the three largest rings upon your dish, filling the middle with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377), then the largest octagonal piece, which also fill with cream, then the next sized ring, and so on until you have built the whole up, finishing with the smallest octagonal at the top, you have also made and baked a pointed meringue of the shape of half a lemon, to fit into the hole at the top, having it decorated to correspond, which place upon the top and serve immediately, or it would become damp, and eat toughish instead of crisp.

No. 1328. Meringue à la Parisienne.

Prepare a meringue mixture of ten whites of eggs, with which make ten large rings, each about eight inches in diameter, and half an inch in thickness, laying them out upon paper; pipe them in stripes with the paper cornet, and sift sugar over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, lay them upon boards, and place them in a slow oven to bake; when of a light brown colour and quite set, put them into a hot closet to dry, then wet the back of the papers lightly with a paste-brush, from which carefully detach the rings, place them again in the hot closet to dry, and when ready to serve pipe them with bright red currant jelly between the stripes of meringue, dish them one upon the other, filling them with whipped cream, and serve as quickly as possible afterwards, with a few strawberries upon the top. A meringue mixture may also be formed into various other shapes, according to fancy.

No. 1329. Nesselrode Pudding.

Blanch four dozen chestnuts in boiling water, skin and place them in the screen, when dry take them out, and when cold put them into a mortar with one pound of sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pound the whole well together, and sift it through a fine wire sieve, put it into a stewpan with the yolks of twelve eggs, beat them well together; in another stewpan have a quart of milk, when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing well, and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and adheres to the back of the spoon, when lay a tammie upon a large dish, pour the mixture in and rub it through with two wooden spoons; when cold place it in a freezing-pot and freeze as directed (No. 1381), when frozen have a large high ice-mould, which closes hermetically, have also two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of maresquino from the previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut in dice, put them into the freezing-pot with a pint of whipped cream and half the meringue preparation directed in (No. 1318); freeze the whole well together and fill your mould, which bury in ice and salt until ready to serve, when dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish.

No. 1330. Pouding de Cabinet glacé.

Have ready prepared, and rather stale, a sponge-cake as directed (No. 1369), which cut into slices half an inch in thickness, and rather smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding in, soak them well with noyeau brandy, then lay some preserved dry cherries at the bottom of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one of the slices over, then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus until the mould is three parts full; then have ready a quart of the custard, as prepared for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), omitting half the quantity of isinglass, pour it lukewarm into your mould, which close hermetically and bury in ice and salt, where let it remain at least two hours; when ready to serve dip it in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; you have made about half a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour over the pudding when ready to serve, and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over.

No. 1331. Glace Meringue au four.

Make a pineapple cream ice as directed (No. 1384), and when well frozen have ready a plain oval ice-mould, place the cream in it, filling it quite tight, close and bury it in ice and salt until five minutes before ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish, which bury up to the rim in ice and salt upon a baking-sheet, have ready a preparation of meringue as directed for petits biscuits glacés, (No. 1318), with which cover it over, place it in a warm oven a minute, just setting the meringue, which will blister and brown slightly, and serve immediately.

No. 1332. Plombière.

Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, with six or eight bitter ones, when dry and cold place them in a mortar with three quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten or twelve leaves of candied orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a wire sieve, and place it in a stewpan with the yolks of nine eggs, beat them well together, then in another stewpan have boiling a pint and a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by degrees, keeping it stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammie, add two glasses of noyeau; when cold put it into your freezing-pot to freeze (see No. 1381), and when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream, when quite frozen fill a mould, and serve as for the Nesselrode pudding.

No. 1333. Plombières Mousseuses à l’Orange.

Prepare about three parts of the quantity of plombière ice as directed in the last, to which, when half frozen, add a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly (No. 1236) just upon the point of setting, beat the whole well together with the spatula, working it until well frozen; have a dozen and a half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and passed in sugar as directed for vol-au-vent (No. 1147), and place them in a basin upon ice; when ready to serve make a border of patisserie d’amande (No. 1183) upon your dish, in the centre of which put a little of the plombière, then a layer of oranges, then plombière and oranges again, proceeding thus and finishing in pyramid; garnish round with a little of the orange jelly (clear), chopped and in croutons, and serve.

No. 1334. Gateaux de Fruit à la Gelée d’Orange mousseuse.

Make a chartreuse of fruit as directed (No. 1269) in a large oval mould, having a quantity of fruit left; have also about a quart of orange jelly (No. 1236), which place upon ice in a bowl, whisking it until upon the point of setting, when place a layer of it in the chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the jelly, and so on until quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and ready to serve dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; serve garnished round with orange jelly in the skins of the oranges (No. 1237), cut in quarters after it has set.

No. 1335. Gateau Soufflé à l’Essence de Ponche.

Break ten eggs, put the whites in a copper bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two of potato flour, a little salt, and a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, beat well together, whip the whites, which stir in lightly with the mixture; well butter and bread-crumb the interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and bread-crumb a band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the top of the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before ready to serve stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about the above time to bake), when done turn it out upon your dish; have ready a custard of three yolks of eggs, made as for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added two glasses of essence of punch, pour round the gateau and serve.

The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in pyramid, but then they would require more sauce.

OF LARGE SOUFFLES FOR REMOVES.

Soufflés when well-made are excellent removes for the winter season, but I generally strive to avoid them in the summer, as they are not, in my opinion, at all suitable for that season of the year, for which reason I have introduced the new soufflé glacé, which, by pleasing the eye, and being more refreshing to the palate, cannot fail to give general satisfaction.

No. 1336. Soufflé à la Vanille.

Prepare a crust or croustade of pâte fine (No. 1136), or water paste, by lining a raised pie-mould with it, filling with bread-crumbs, and finishing the edges as for a raised pie; bake it (of a very light brown colour) about an hour in a moderate oven, when done empty out all the bread-crumbs without taking it out of the mould, then tie a band of buttered paper (four inches wide) round the top, and put it by until wanted. Put half a pound of butter in a stewpan, with which mix three quarters of a pound of flour without melting it, in another stewpan have rather more than a quart of milk, into which, when boiling, put two sticks of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan and let it remain until half cold, then take out the vanilla, and pour the milk upon the butter and flour, stir over a sharp fire, boiling it five minutes, then stir in quickly the yolks of ten eggs, and sweeten with half a pound of sugar; when cold, and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve, whip the whites of the ten eggs very stiff, stir them in with the mixture lightly, pour it into the croustade, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven, if going too fast, and liable to be done before required, open the oven door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done; when ready to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper, take it from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve immediately.

These soufflés may be baked in a silver soufflé-case, if preferred, they will take considerable less time in baking, but fall quicker after being taken from the oven; any liqueur or spirits even may be introduced in soufflés of this description if approved of.

No. 1337. Soufflé à la Fleur d’Orange.

Proceed exactly as in the last, but infusing an ounce of candied orange-flowers in the milk instead of the vanilla.

No. 1338. Soufflé au Café vierge.

Proceed as for the soufflé à la vanille, omitting the vanilla, and procuring two ounces of green coffee, which place in a stewpan over a sharp fire, keeping them moved until of a very light brown colour, then throw them into the milk when boiling, cover over until half cold, and finish as before directed, passing the milk through a sieve.

No. 1339. Soufflé à la Crème de Riz

Is made by using ground rice instead of the common flour, finishing the same, and using any of the flavours directed in the three last.

No. 1340. Soufflé au Citron.

Proceed as directed for soufflé à la vanille, but infusing the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in the milk instead of the vanilla.

No. 1341. Soufflé au Macaroni.

Have half a pound of macaroni blanched as directed (No. 130), lay it upon a cloth to drain, and cut it into small pieces, the eighth of an inch in thickness; make half the preparation as directed for soufflé à la vanille, but using an infusion of an ounce of bitter almonds; when it becomes thick over the fire stir in the macaroni, and when again nearly boiling, the yolks of ten eggs, when cold whip the whites, which add to the other ingredients, and finish as where previously directed.

No. 1342. Soufflé au Tapioca.

Put a half a pound of tapioca in a stewpan, with three pints of milk and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and when boiling add the rind of two lemons, free from pith, tied in a bunch, boil until the tapioca is rather stiff and well done, then take out the lemon and stir in the yolks of twelve eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire to thicken a little, and put by until cold; when ready, whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, stir them lightly with the tapioca, bake and serve as for the other description of soufflés.

No. 1343. Soufflé au Rhum.

Break the yolks of twelve eggs in a basin, to which add half a pound of sifted sugar, beat well with a wooden spoon until becoming quite thick and whitish; when stir in two glasses of rum and an ounce of potato flour; whisk the whites of the eggs very stiff, mix them gently with the mixture, put it upon the dish you intend serving it on, shaping in pyramid with a knife; and a quarter of an hour before serving place it in a moderate oven, when done pour a little rum round, which set on fire and serve immediately. Soufflés au maresquin, noyeau, curaçoa, or whiskey, are made precisely as the above, omitting the rum, adding two glasses of one or the other liqueurs instead, and serving without the fire round it.

No. 1344. Omelette Soufflée.

Proceed as described in the last, but omitting the rum or liqueurs, and flavouring with three tablespoonfuls of orange-flower-water, or rubbing the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding and mixing (or vanilla sugar, No. 1377, might be used); place the soufflé upon the dish, bake a quarter of an hour, and serve. These kinds of soufflés are much more simple in their fabrication than the others, and much quicker done; their greatest difficulty is the whipping of the eggs, which must be very stiff; a little practice would, however, soon enable you to manage them; the best method is to put them into a copper bowl with a pinch of salt, and commence whipping very slowly, then quicker and quicker by degrees, until they adhere like feathers to the whisk. These soufflés may likewise be baked in a silver soufflé-dish, by tying a band of buttered paper round to bake it, which detach at the time of serving.

No. 1345. Omelette Soufflée à l’Antiquaire.

Though the last-mentioned article has received the name of omelette soufflée, it has no particular right to the name; for as there is no making an omelette without eggs, so is there no making an omelette soufflée without an omelette-pan; I do not, therefore, intend entirely to forsake the old-fashioned method. The mixture is prepared precisely as the last, but the appearance and flavour are very different, being produced by the different method of cooking them; put an ounce of butter into a very clean omelette-pan over the fire, when melted, pour in half the preparation, place it over a very brisk fire a few seconds, then twist it round in the pan, which give a jerk, tossing the omelette half way over, stand it over the fire again, give the pan another jerk, tossing the omelette again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it in the oven and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation, which when done turn over upon the other, leave it in the oven about a quarter of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, salamander and serve very quickly. The butter the soufflé is fried in gives it a superior flavour to the last.

No. 1346. Omelette Soufflée à la Crème.

Proceed as in the last, deducting two of the whites of eggs, and adding a gill of whipped cream, fry and serve as above.

No. 1347. Soufflé au Gingembre.

This is a very excellent remove for a party of gentlemen, make a preparation as for soufflé à la vanille (No. 1336), adding a little syrup, mixing a quarter of a pound of fresh preserved ginger with it, cut into thin slices, add two more whites of eggs to the preparation, which bake in a croustade as directed where above referred to.

No. 1348. Soufflé au Cerises.

Prepare a soufflé mixture as before, giving it the flavour of orange-flowers; when the whites of eggs are well mixed, add a pound of cherries prepared thus: procure them not too ripe, take out the stones, and put them into a sugar-pan with half a pound of sugar, stew them until surrounded with a thickish syrup, then turn them out upon a sieve to dry, stir them into the soufflé lightly, pour in your croustade, and bake it a short time longer, as the cherries will prevent the soufflé rising so quickly.

No. 1349. Soufflé au jus d’Orange et au Zeste praliné.

Prepare a soufflé mixture as before, but when you pour in the milk add likewise the juice and pulp of eight oranges, having previously rubbed the rind of one of them upon two ounces of sugar, pound it fine, place it in the hot closet to dry, and add it as extra sugar to the soufflé, bake and serve as before; a gill of milk less must be used in the above on account of the orange-juice, it would otherwise be too moist.

No. 1350. Biscuits Soufflés à la Crème.

Put the yolks of ten eggs in a basin, and the whites in a copper bowl, add half a pound of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to pounding, beat it well with the yolks of the eggs, then add half a pint of cream well whipped and ten ounces of flour; stir all together lightly, whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, and stir them into the preparation; have ready a dozen and a half of small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, and fifteen minutes before serving place them in a moderate oven; when done shake sugar over, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve.

No. 1351. Fondue au Parmesan et Gruyère.

Put half a pound of butter and three quarters of a pound of flour in a stewpan, mix them well together (without melting the butter) with a wooden spoon, then add rather more than a quart of boiling milk, stir over the fire, boil twenty minutes, then add the yolks of ten eggs (stir in well), a pound of grated Parmesan, and half a pound of grated Gruyère cheese; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of pepper, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne; if too thick add two or three whole eggs to give it the consistency of a soufflé, whip the ten whites of egg firm, stir them gently into the mixture, have ready a croustade prepared as for the soufflé (No. 1336), pour in the above mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven; it will require half an hour longer than the soufflé; dish and serve the same.

No. 1352. Fondue à la Napolitaine.

Prepare three fourths of the mixture as in the last, but previous to adding the whites of eggs stir in a quarter of a pound of good macaroni blanched as directed (No. 130) and cut into pieces an inch in length; add the whites, bake, and serve as before.

No. 1353. Petites Fondues au Pâte d’Italie.

Blanch a quarter of a pound of any description of Italian paste in boiling water a few minutes, strain it upon a silk sieve until a little dry, put an ounce of butter and a spoonful of flour, mix well together, then add half a pint of boiling milk; stir over the fire until thickish, add your paste, stir it a few minutes longer over the fire, then add a quarter of a pound of Stilton cheese in small lumps, and a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan; season with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, add six yolks of eggs, stir it another minute until the eggs are partially set, and when cold whip the whites very stiff; mix them well in, fill small paper cases with it, bake a quarter of an hour in a moderate oven, and serve very hot.

No. 1354. Fondue (simple method).

Put two ounces of Gruyère and two ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated) into a basin, with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, add the yolks of six eggs, with half a pound of butter melted (mix well), whip the whites of the six eggs, stir gently into the other ingredients, fill small paper cases with it, bake about a quarter of an hour in a moderate oven, dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot.

No. 1355. Petites Fondues (en caisse) au Stilton.

Put six ounces of butter and half a pound of flour in a stewpan, rub well together with a wooden spoon, then add a quart of warm milk, stir over the fire a quarter of an hour, then add the yolks of eight eggs, three quarters of a pound of grated Parmesan, and half a pound of Stilton cheese in small dice, season rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne, add the white of the eggs whipped very stiff, which stir in lightly; have a dozen and a half of small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, place them in a moderate oven, bake about twenty minutes; when done dress them upon a napkin on your dish, and serve very hot.

No. 1356. Ramequins.

Put a gill of water in a stewpan, to which add two ounces of Gruyère and the same quantity of Parmesan cheese (grated), two ounces of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, set it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two or three spoonfuls of flour; keep stirring over the fire until the paste becomes dryish and the bottom of the stewpan quite white, then add three or four eggs by degrees, until forming a paste like pâte à choux (No. 1194), butter a baking-sheet well, and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon, making them long, and half the size of the bowl of the spoon; egg over, and lay a small piece of Gruyère cheese upon each, put them into the oven about twenty minutes before they are required; bake them a little crisp, and serve very hot, dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1357. Petits Ramequins au feuilletage.

Make half a pound of paste (No. 1132), which roll very thin, have ready some grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese mixed, throw half a handful over the paste, which fold in three, roll it out to the same thickness again, cover again with cheese, proceeding thus until you have used the whole of the cheese (half a pound), then cut them into any shapes you like with pastry cutters, set on a wet baking-sheet, egg them over, bake a nice colour in a moderate oven, dress in pyramid upon a napkin on a dish, and serve very hot.

No. 1358. Diablotins au Gruyère.

Put a gill of milk in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, when boiling stir in two spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, half a pound of Gruyère, and half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese; mix well in, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne rather highly, mould the paste into little balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into very hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve very hot.

No. 1359. Croquettes de Macaroni au Fromage.

Put two quarts of water, with a little salt and a small piece of butter into a stewpan, and when boiling add half a pound of macaroni, which boil until tender, drain it upon a sieve, and when cold cut it into pieces a quarter of an inch in length, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of béchamel sauce, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; let simmer a few minutes until rather thick, stirring it gently occasionally, then add half a pound of grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese (or good common cheese may be used), turn gently a few minutes longer over the fire, take it off, stir in the yolks of four eggs quickly, stir another minute over the fire to set the eggs, and pour out upon a dish until quite cold, then form it into olive-shaped pieces, rather larger than walnuts, or into pieces of the shape of pears, or into croquettes two inches long, the thickness of your finger; have three eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which dip them, roll them over, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, pat them gently with your knife, dip again into eggs and bread-crumbs, place them in a wire basket, and fry in very hot lard; dress them in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve very hot. If the preparation is well prepared, once bread-crumbing would be sufficient.

Macaroni à l’Italienne.

Boil half a pound of macaroni as above, when done lay it on a sieve to dry for one minute, put it in a pan with four spoonfuls of white sauce, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little cayenne; toss the macaroni over the fire; when boiling, add two ounces each of grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese, toss round and round until well mixed, then serve with a gill of very strong gravy around it.

Macaroni au Gratin.

Proceed the same as above, but after you have put the macaroni on the dish, omit the gravy, and cover it slightly with bread-crumbs, and about the same quantity of Parmesan cheese, grated, a little butter over, and then put in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour, if not hot enough, pass the salamander over it to give it a nice brownish colour, and serve very hot.

Macaroni à la Napolitaine.

Boil half a pound of the best quality of macaroni for half an hour (as at No. 1369), when tender, lay one quarter of it on the dish you intend to serve, have ready two ounces of grated Parmesan, which you divide into four parts, to lay over each layer of macaroni, then put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong gravy, made of half glaze and consommé; put the dish in the oven for ten minutes, and serve very hot.

The real Italian method (called à l’Estoufade).

Boil and proceed as before, but make the gravy as follows, and use it instead of the preceding:—Take two pounds of rump of beef, larded through, put in a small stewpan with one quarter of a pound of butter, fry gently for one hour, turning almost continually, when forming a glaze add a pint of broth, let simmer another hour very gently indeed, take the fat off, and use that gravy instead of that above described; a little tomato sauce may be introduced if handy; serve the beef at the same time in a separate dish.

APPENDIX.

No. 1360. Aspic,

Or Savoury Jelly, extracted from the succulence of meat, when well made, is very inviting at any season of the year, especially in the summer, besides being the principal ornament and garniture of those savoury dishes which relieve the monotony of the second course. The tediousness and expense of its preparation in the old-fashioned manner has often been the cause of its being omitted, which has also prevented gourmets from partaking of the second course, but where well served, its delightful flavour will restore, cleanse, and invigorate the palate, causing each guest to partake more freely of the savoury dishes, which will afford a zest to the delicate Lafitte or Château Margot, which flows so generously in the glasses of true epicures. By following closely my new receipt, I venture to say that any cook, with a little experience, will produce an aspic fit for the table of a crowned head.

Take two large knuckles of veal, which cut in large dice, having about six pounds of meat, well butter the bottom of a middling-sized stewpan, put in the meat, with one pound of lean ham and two calf’s feet, cut up, breaking the bones, add half a gill of water, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a whitish glaze, then fill it up with five quarts of water, add three onions, one small carrot, one turnip, half a head of celery, six peppercorns, one clove, half a blade of mace, a teaspoonful of salt, and a bunch of parsley, with which you have mixed two bay-leaves and a few sprigs of thyme, also two apples, peeled and cut in quarters; when boiling place it at the corner of the stove, let simmer gently for three hours, skimming off every particle of fat, or it would interfere with the clarification; it should be reduced to about a half, pass it through a fine cloth into a basin, place a little in a mould upon ice to ascertain if sufficiently firm, if too firm add a little light broth, but if, on the contrary, too weak, reduce it until you have obtained the consistency of strong calf’s-foot jelly, place the remainder in a stewpan upon the fire, taste if to your palate; have the whites of six eggs in a basin, with the shells, whisk them half a minute, add a gill of water or broth, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and a little salt, beat all together, have the stock boiling upon the fire, whisk round, pour in the eggs at once, and keep whisking a few minutes; set the stewpan at the corner with the lid on, upon which place some live charcoal, and let it remain five minutes, have a fine napkin, which tie in a square upon the top of your jelly-stand, through which pass it into a basin, pouring the first that runs through again into the napkin, when passed and set it is ready for use where directed. Should you require the aspic to partake of the flavour of fowl, twenty minutes before passing the stock, thrust a fowl just roasted into it, leaving it but a very short time. The same remark also applies to game of any description, should you require the aspic of such a flavour. To obtain aspic of a fine gold colour, let your stock draw down to a pale yellowish glaze before filling it up, or add a spoonful of brown gravy (No. 135); three very distinct colours may likewise be made of aspic, without introducing the colour-box of some celebrated artists, that is, leaving the one nearly white, the other a gold colour, as above mentioned, and the other quite a dark brown, adding more brown gravy and reducing it a little, clarifying it separately, and colouring before the clarification; place it in three separate sauté-pans or flat moulds, which place upon ice, when set, ornament your dishes tastefully, it will produce an excellent effect, especially in a large supper. Should you not succeed in clarifying it the first time, the operation must be again performed.

No. 1361. Mayonnaise à la gelée.

Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic upon ice in a stewpan, which keep whisking until becoming a white froth, then add half a pint of salad-oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, by degrees, first oil, and then vinegar, continually whisking until it forms a white smooth sauce, to all appearance like a cream; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little sugar, whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with. The advantage of this sauce (which is more delicate than any other) is, that you may dress it to any height you like, and it will remain so for a long time; if the temperature is not too hot it will remain hours without melting or appearing greasy.

No. 1362. Mayonnaise à la gelée aux fines herbes.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding half a spoonful of fresh chopped parsley, half a one of finely chopped eschalots, and one of finely chopped fresh tarragon and chervil.

No. 1363. Mayonnaise à la gelée en Ravigote verte.

Well pound two good handfuls of spinach in a mortar, and put it into a thick cloth over a dish, twist up the cloth as tight as possible, until you have extracted all the liquor, which put into a stewpan, and place over the fire, the moment it boils it will curdle, when pour it upon the back of a silk sieve, when cold take a spoonful of the green from off the sieve, which put into a basin with a good spoonful of chopped tarragon; have ready a good mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), which put into the basin, mixing the whole lightly, but well together; it will be of a fine pistachio green colour, and is then ready for use where required. To make it red, use the spawn of lobster and omit the spinach. It requires to be extremely well seasoned.

No. 1364. Mayonnaise ordinaire.

Put the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin, with the yolk of one hard-boiled one, rub through a hair sieve, add two saltspoonfuls of salt, and one of white pepper, stir round with the right hand with a wooden spoon, holding a bottle of salad-oil in the left, dropping it in by degrees, continually stirring, when becoming a little thickish, add a couple of spoonfuls of common vinegar, by degrees, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, proceeding thus until you have used a pint of oil and four or five spoonfuls of vinegar, having, by constantly working it, formed a stiffish cream-looking sauce, perfectly smooth; this sauce being used for salads, requires to be rather highly seasoned, as it affords the seasoning for salad, volaille, &c.; mayonnaise aux fines herbes, ditto en ravigote verte, are made as above, adding the herbs, or herbs and spinach as in the two preceding. Should the sauce curdle in making, the operation must be again commenced, putting the yolk of an egg in a basin, stirring in carefully a little oil and vinegar, and when forming a smoothish paste, stir in the curdled sauce by degrees until the whole has become very smooth. Always choose a cool place to make it in.

No. 1365. Mayonnaise à la Provençale.

Prepare a sauce as described in the last, quite plain, bruise half a clove of a garlic to a purée, which add to the sauce with twelve chopped olives, two of chopped gherkins, two of capers, and the fillets of a small anchovy cut in fine strips; this sauce may be used for any description of salad. There are many persons who, I am aware, have a great dislike to garlic, but as there are a great many also very fond of it, I have here given it as a bonne bouche.

No. 1366. Montpellier Butter.

Boil six eggs quite hard, when cold take out the yolks, which put into a mortar with four anchovies well washed, two spoonfuls of capers, six gherkins, a little salt and pepper, a spoonful of tarragon and chervil, and one of parsley, pound all well together (adding the yolk of a raw egg) until it forms a stiffish paste; then add by degrees a pint of oil (keep mixing with the pestle), moistening occasionally with vinegar, add a spoonful of the colouring from spinach prepared as (No. 1363), to give it a nice colour, rub it through a hair sieve into a basin, put it upon the ice, and when firm it is ready to use where directed; a quarter of the above only may be prepared if no more is required.

No. 1367. Forcemeat for raised pies.

Take three pounds of lean veal from the leg, which cut into very small dice, with one pound of fat bacon, put the whole into a middling-sized stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, six of parsley, one blade of mace, twelve peppercorns, half an ounce of pepper, and the same of salt, pass it over a sharp fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze, stirring the whole time; then turn it upon a dish, and when cold chop it very fine, taking out the mace and peppercorns, put it in a mortar and pound it well; add two pounds of sausage-meat, pound and mix the whole well together, then add six eggs and a little cold white sauce, when well mixed it is ready for use where directed.

No. 1368. Forcemeat of Liver for game pies.

Procure a very nice calf’s liver, which lay in water a short time to disgorge, then cut it up in small dice, with a pound of lean veal and one of fat bacon, put the whole in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, an ounce of pepper, the same of salt, rather less than a quarter of an ounce of mixed spice, two bay-leaves, and a little thyme and parsley, pass ten minutes over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred; then lay it upon a dish until cold, when put it into a mortar and pound well, when fine add one pound of pork sausage-meat, with six eggs and a little brown sauce, mix the whole well together, rub it through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon, and use where directed.

No. 1369. Sponge-cake.

Put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized bowl, which stand in a bain marie of hot water; sift one pound of flour upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the sugar, which whisk rather quickly until they become a little warm and rather thickish, when take the bowl from the bain marie, and continue whisking until nearly or quite cold, when add the chopped rind of a lemon and the flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have put a little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven, it may require longer or not so long, but that will depend entirely upon the compass you have it in; if done it will feel firm to the touch, but the surest method is to run a thin wooden skewer into the centre, if it comes out clean the cake is done, but if not some of the mixture would adhere to it; care should be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would sink in the centre, and never properly bake; when done turn it out upon a sieve to cool. As the above is for cutting, and many of my new removes are made from it, it had better be overdone than not done enough.

No. 1370. Savoy Cake in mould.

Have ready a large high mould lightly buttered, (with a soft brush, and clarified butter,) turn the mould up to drain, and when the butter is quite set throw some finely sifted sugar into it; move the mould round until the sugar has adhered to every part, after which turn out the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper round at the top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is ready. Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin with one pound of sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to pounding), beat well together with a wooden spoon until nearly white, then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, add them to the yolks and sugar, with six ounces of flour and six ounces of potato-flour, mix the whole lightly, but well together, and fill the mould rather more than three parts full, place it in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping the oven door shut; then try when done as directed in the last, if done take off the paper and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above mixture being more delicate than the last, would not do so well for removes, but may be used for that purpose by being made three or four days before it is required.

No. 1371. Savoy Biscuits.

Have the weight of nine eggs of sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain marie of hot water, weigh the same weight of flour, which sift through a wire sieve upon paper, break the eggs into a bowl, and proceed as directed for sponge-cake; then with a paper funnel or bag, with a tin pipe made for that purpose, lay it out upon papers into biscuits three inches in length, and the thickness of your little finger, sift sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them; place them upon baking-sheets and bake in rather a warm oven of a brownish yellow colour, when done and cold detach them from the paper by wetting it at the back, place them a short time to dry, and they are ready for use for charlotte russe, or wherever directed.

No. 1372. To clarify Isinglass.

Put a quarter of a pound of isinglass in a small stewpan, just cover it with a little clear spring water, and add a piece of lump sugar the size of a walnut, place it upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally to prevent its sticking to the bottom; when upon the point of simmering add the juice of half a lemon, let simmer about a quarter of an hour, skim and pass it through a fine cloth; if the isinglass is good it will be as clear as crystal, but if it should be a little clouded (which it might be, and yet the isinglass tolerably good) clarify it again thus: pour it into a larger stewpan adding half a gill of water, place it upon the fire, and when on the point of boiling have the white of an egg in a basin, whip well with half a gill of water, pour it into the isinglass, which keep whisking over the fire until boiling, when place it at the corner of the stove, and let reduce to its former consistency, it will keep good some few days if kept in a cool place; if required for crèmes or bavaroises it will not require clarifying, but merely dissolving as at first directed.

No. 1373. Glace Royale or Iceing.

Have ready a pound of the best white sugar, which pound well and sift through a silk sieve, put it into a basin with the whites of three fresh eggs, beat well together with a wooden spoon, adding the juice of half a lemon, keep beating well until it becomes very light and hangs in flakes from the spoon (if it should be rather too stiff in mixing, add a little more white of egg, if, on the contrary, too soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where required.

No. 1374. Chocolate Iceing

Is made similar to the last, but when finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate, which melt in a stewpan over the fire, keeping it stirred; when quite melted stir some of it in with the iceing until you have obtained the colour required, moistening the iceing with a little more white of egg, and use where directed.

No. 1375. Sugar in grains

Is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair sieve, then again what remains in the sieve put into a rather coarse wire sieve, and that which passes through is what is meant by the above term.

No. 1376. To colour sugar in grains.

Prepare about half a pound of the sugar as in the last, which put upon a baking-sheet; have a spoonful of the essence of spinach prepared as (No. 1244), which stir in with the sugar until every grain is stained, when put them in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot; to colour them red, use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine, instead of the spinach, and proceed exactly the same; sugar may be made of other colours by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c.; but not being partial to such a variety of colouring, I have merely given the red and the green, which, with the white, I consider to be sufficient for any of the purposes for which they are used.

No. 1377. Vanilla Sugar.

Chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very small, and put it into a mortar with half a pound of lump sugar, pound the whole well together in a mortar, sift through a hair sieve, and put by in a bottle or jar, corking it up tight, and using where required.

No. 1378. Lemon Sugar.

Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large piece of sugar, and as it discolours the part upon which it is rubbed scrape it off with a knife; when you have obtained a sufficient quantity, dry a little in the screen, and bottle for use where required. Orange sugar may be made in the same manner, substituting very red oranges for the lemons.

No. 1379. To clarify and boil Sugar.

Break three pounds of fine white sugar, the hardest and closest grained is the best, put it into a sugar-pan with three pints of clear spring water, set over a sharp fire, and when beginning to boil place it at the corner to simmer, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then ready to use for jellies, &c.

If not able to obtain the best quality sugar it would be necessary to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold water, add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer, adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following directions:—

The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst boiling, turning it over two or three times, if the sugar falls from it in sheets it has attained the first degree.

The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them, it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer, this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices.

The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying it in the same manner, upon the thread breaking, should it form a kind of pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would also be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls.

The next degree is attained by boiling it still longer, dip a skimmer into it, turn, take out and blow it hard, when the sugar will form little bladders and float in the air, this degree is called the soufflé.

For the next degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner, but blowing harder, the bladders will be larger and adhere together, forming feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather.

The next is called au petite casée, and is obtained by boiling the sugar a little longer, to know this degree have a pint of cold water in a basin into which you have put a piece of ice, dip you finger into it, then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree.

The seventh and last requires great attention, to attain it boil rather longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all adhere to the teeth in biting it is done, take from the fire and it is ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament.

When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid when it arrives to the degree la plume, and pour it into a smaller sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then unable to burn round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however, happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolour the sugar.

Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner, but if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should the sugar grain it may be brought back by adding more water, and when dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use, which keep in a melted state by placing it in a bain marie of hot water or in a hot closet.

No. 1380. Sucre filé.

Having boiled your sugar to the seventh degree, as in the last, oil the handle of a wooden spoon, tie two forks together, the prongs turned outwards, dip them lightly into the sugar, take out and shake them to and fro, the sugar running from them over the spoon forming fine silken threads, proceeding thus until you have as much as you require, take it from the spoon and form it with your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any dish, not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. An experienced hand would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-pan.

Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by oiling a mould or shape and running fillets of the sugar from the lip of the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but as I have not referred to it in this work I will not enter into its details.

No. 1381. Vanilla Cream Ice.

Put the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, in another stewpan have a quart of milk and when boiling throw in two sticks of vanilla, draw it from the fire, place on the lid and let remain until partly cold, pour it over the eggs and sugar in the other stewpan, mix well, and place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt;[18] put the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must fit rather tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply, keeping it turned for about ten minutes, when take off the lid and with your spatula clear the sides of the interior of the pot, place the lid on again, turn the pot ten minutes longer, when again clear the sides and beat the whole well together until smooth, it being then about half frozen, then add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino and a pint and a half of cream well whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the top, keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well from the sides, beat again well together, proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into a stiff but smooth and mellow substance, should you require to keep it sometime before serving, pour the water which has run from the ice out of the pail and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up smoothly with your spatula.

No. 1382. Coffee Cream Ice.

Proceed exactly as in the last but omitting the noyeau or maresquino, and making an infusion with coffee as directed (No. 1253) instead of vanilla.

No. 1383. Chocolate Cream Ice.

Is made similar to the vanilla cream ice, but omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of which scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate, place it in a stewpan over the fire and keep stirring until melted, then have ready boiling a quart of milk, which mix with the chocolate by degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and freeze as before.

No. 1384. Pineapple Cream Ice.

Procure a rather small pineapple, take off the rind which reserve, and cut the apple into pieces an inch in length and about the thickness of a quill, place them in a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, set it upon the fire and reduce to a rather thickish syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into which when boiling throw the rind of the pineapple, cover it over and let infuse ten minutes, in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees, (previously straining it,) place over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, add the syrup and pineapple, and freeze it as in the last, adding a pint and a half of whipped cream; when half frozen use where directed.

No. 1385. Lemon Cream Ice.

Take the rind from six lemons as thin as possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice of the lemons into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and reduce until rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and a half of milk upon the fire into which when boiling throw the rind of the lemons, cover over and let remain until half cold, in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, (to which you have added an ounce of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, when stir in the syrup and pass it through a tammie; when cold freeze as directed (No. 1381) adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen.

No. 1386. Orange Cream Ice.

Proceed precisely as in the last, but using the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons as there directed.

No. 1387. Apricot Cream Ice.

Procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, which break, extracting the kernels, which blanch in very hot water and skin, then put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a glassful of water, let them boil until almost forming a marmalade, when put them by in a basin, have the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over the fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, add the syrup and apricots, and when cold three glasses of noyeau, freeze as in (No. 1381), and when half frozen add a pint of good whipped cream.

No. 1388. Strawberry Cream Ice.

Procure about two pounds of fine ripe strawberries, which pick and rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp of the strawberries, with which mix half a pound of powdered sugar and put it by in a basin, in a stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, stir over the fire until it becomes thickish, adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie, and when cold add the juice from the strawberries and three glasses of maresquino, freeze it as directed (No. 1381), adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen and sufficiently prepared; cochineal to give it a strawberry colour if approved of.

No. 1389. Apple Marmalade.

Peel and cut thirty apples in slices, taking out the cores, and if for preserving to every pound of fruit put three quarters of a pound of broken sugar, (but if for immediate use half a pound would be quite sufficient,) place the whole into a large preserving-pan, with half a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind of a lemon chopped very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thick, it is then done; if for immediate use a smaller quantity would be sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold, but if to keep any time put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie down until wanted.

No. 1390. Apricot Marmalade.

Stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy apricots, break the stones, and blanch and skin the kernels, which with the apricots put into a preserving-pan, add six pounds of sugar and place it over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thick, take it off, put it in jars, and when cold tie paper over, and put by until ready for use.

No. 1391. Quince Marmalade.

Procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces, which peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, place them in a large preserving-pan and cover with cold water; set upon the fire, and when boiling and tender to the touch, place them in a large sieve to drain one hour, pass them through a tammie, then have ready a corresponding weight of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 1379) in the preserving-pan, to which add the purée of quinces, keep stirring over the fire till forming thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a stewpan, if it sets quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars, and let remain a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put by until wanted.

No. 1392. Apricot Marmalade (transparent).

Procure a quantity of very ripe apricots, each of which cut into four or six pieces, break the stones and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in a preserving-pan with a small quantity of water, boil them until quite tender, when pass them through a sieve; to every pound of fruit have three quarters of a pound of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled to the sixth degree (No. 1379), add the apricots with their kernels, and keep stirring over the fire until forming thin transparent sheets, try when done as in the last, and put away in pots. The marmalade would be still more transparent if you were to peel the apricots first, but then you would lose some of their delicious flavour.

No. 1393. Cherry Marmalade.

Procure a sieve of bright Kentish cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and put the fruit in a preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it stirred until reduced to two thirds, have in another preserving-pan, to every pound of fruit, half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 1379), into which pour the fruit when boiling hot, let reduce, keep stirring until you can just see the bottom of the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill your jars as before.

A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit, place them in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add nearly half a pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, and let it get partly cold in the pan before filling the jars.

No. 1394. Strawberry Marmalade.

Pick twelve pounds of very red ripe strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan with ten pounds of sugar (broken into smallish pieces), place over a sharp fire, keep continually stirring, boiling it until the surface is covered with clearish bubbles, try a little upon a cover, if it sets, fill the jars as before.

No. 1395. Raspberry Marmalade.

Pick twelve pounds of raspberries and pass them through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, boil as many pounds of sugar as you had pounds of fruit to the sixth degree (No. 1379), when add the pulp of the fruit, keep stirring over the fire, reducing it until you can just see the bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it into jars as before.

No. 1396. Apple Jelly.

Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar-pan, just cover them with cold water, and place over the fire, let boil until the apples become quite pulpy, when drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin, which afterwards pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag; to every pint of liquor have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth degree as directed (No. 1379), when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the apple with a very clean skimmer, to prevent it boiling over keep it skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan, and when the jelly falls from it in thin sheets, take it up and fill the pots as before; the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies.

No. 1397. Quince Jelly.

Proceed exactly as directed in the last, but using quinces instead of apples.

No. 1398. Currant and Raspberry Jelly.

Put half a sieve of fine red currants in a large stewpan with a gallon of white currants and a gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water, place over the fire, keep stirring, to prevent them sticking to the bottom, and let boil about ten minutes, pour them into a sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin and draining the currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a clean jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have time to pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling, you would lose that bitter flavour, and have less difficulty in making your jelly clear.

No. 1399. Currant Jelly

Is made precisely as in the last, omitting the raspberries, the difference being in the use; the last being adapted for the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for sauces, or to serve with hares, venison, or any other meat, where required.

A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth, put it into a preserving-pan with to every pint of juice, three quarters of a pound of white sugar; place over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally with a skimmer, keeping it well skimmed; it is done when dropping in sheets as before from the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last simple method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full freshness of the fruit.

It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods of preserving fruits which belong to the confectionary department; I have however given the few foregoing receipts, they being required for reference from various parts of this work, and being all that are required for the garnishing of dishes for the second course; various other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and jellies by following those few simple directions.

No. 1400. To preserve Tomatas.

Procure six half sieves of fine red ripe tomatas, pull out the stalks, squeeze out the seeds, and throw the tomatas into a middling-sized stock-pot or large stewpan, add two carrots (cut in thin slices), ten onions (do.), a head of celery, ten sprigs of thyme, ten do. of parsley, six bay-leaves, six cloves of garlic, four blades of mace, ten cloves, ten peppercorns, and a handful of salt; place upon the fire, move them occasionally from the bottom, and let boil three quarters of an hour; then line a couple of large sieves with cloths, into which put them to drain, (not too dry,) throw the liquor that runs from them away, rub them through a wire sieve, and afterwards through tammies, then put them into a stewpan, season with a teaspoonful of cayenne and a little more salt, place upon the fire, and stir until boiling, take from the fire, and when about three parts cold, put into strong glass bottles[19] (do not fill them too full), cork them down, tightly securing the corks with wire or string, place them in a vegetable steamer, and steam them well for half an hour (or if no steamer, have a large fish-kettle of water simmering, in which stand the bottles, with their necks just out of the water) take them out, and when cold dip the tops into melted pitch and rosin, then into cold water, and put by until required.

END Of RECEIPTS FOR THE TABLE OF THE WEALTHY.

SERVICE PAGODATIQUE.

MY new pagodatique dishes, which have been pronounced by persons of taste who have seen them (and more so by those who have partaken of their contents) to be most novel, useful, and elegant, a service of them forming quite a new coup d’œil, and giving the greatest variation to small récherché dinners. Having invented them only last year, and having then this work in progress, caused me to refrain from giving them any great publicity previous to this publication; and the only service ever used was by me at the Reform Club, where they met with complete success. A minute description of the origin, utility, and construction will be found at the end of this work, with correct engravings, representing it both with and without the cover; so I shall here content myself by giving a bill of fare of a dinner served in them, to grace the table of the wealthy, as represented in the following engraving. They being entirely devoted for entrées, four of them make a service, and in very large dinners may be always introduced as corner dishes. In the following bill of fare I have given two entrées, containing four sauces each, and the others with only two, being the manner in which I have frequently served them, each brown entrée must be lightly glazed, dressed elegantly in the centre, not covering too large a space, and just sufficient clear gravy to cover the bottom of your dish, whilst the white entrées would require a little thin white sauce; some entrées, again, which require to be dipped in white or brown sauce would have sufficient run from them to cover bottom of the dish.

Barff Tucker, del. J. Walmsley, Sculp.

Table of the Wealthy.

Rien ne dispose mieux l’esprit humain à des transactions amicales qu’un diner bien conçu artistement préparé.

DINER LUCULLUSIAN À LA SAMPAYO.

I BEG to present to my Readers a copy of the Bill-of-fare of the most recherché dinner I ever dressed, which the liberality and epicurean taste of the gentleman who gave it, to a select party of connoiseurs, enabled me to procure; he wishing me to get him a first-rate dinner, and spare no expense in procuring the most novel, luxurious, and rare edibles to be obtained at this extravagant season of the year; I, therefore, much to his satisfaction, placed before him and his guests the following: (see p. 609).

I had also proposed the following dish to the party, which was accepted, but which I was unable to obtain from Paris on account of a change in the weather preventing their arrival, the articles being two dozen of ortolans; having already procured twelve of the largest and finest truffles I could obtain, it was my intention to have dug a hole in each, into which I should have placed one of the birds, and covered each with a piece of lamb’s or calf’s caul, then to have braised them half an hour in good stock made from fowl and veal, with half a pint of Lachryma Christi added; then to have drained them upon a cloth, placed a border of poached forcemeat upon the dish, built the truffles in pyramid, made a purée with the truffle dug from the interior, using the stock reduced to a demi-glace and poured over, roasted the twelve remaining ortolans before a sharp fire, with which I should have garnished the whole round, and served very hot.

[Note. The tradespeople received their orders a week previous to the dinner. The finest mullets I ever saw, as well as the Severn salmon, were obtained at Grove’s, in Bond Street; the remainder of the fish was from Jay’s, Hungerford Market. At seven o’clock the live Severn salmon was brought to me, it having just arrived direct from Gloucester, and was boiled immediately, being just ten minutes before the dinner was placed upon the table, and was eaten in its greatest possible perfection. The finest of the poultry came from Bailey’s, Davis Street, Grosvenor Square, and Townsend’s, Charles Street, Haymarket. The foies gras and some very fine fresh French truffles came from Morel’s; the hors-d’-œuvres, from Edges and Butler’s, Regent Street. The saddleback of lamb came from Newland’s, Air Street, Piccadilly, the Welsh mutton from Skier’s, and the young green peas and a very expensive dessert came from Solomon’s, Covent Garden. My being so minute in mentioning the name of the above tradespeople is not to advertise their fame in their different specialities, as that I believe they have already acquired, but merely to prove the trouble a real gourmet will take to furnish his table, Mr. S. having called many times upon several of them himself, previous to this party taking place, to ascertain what his dinner was to be composed of. The most expensive dishes were the mullets, the salmon, poulardes à la Nelson, and, above all, the crawfish which, when dressed, cost upwards of seven guineas.]

DIALOGUE CULINAIRE

Entre Lord M. H. et A. Soyer.

S. Vous avez parfaitement raison, Mylord; le titre de gourmet n’appartient qu’à celui qui mange avec art, avec science, avec ordre, et même avec beaucoup d’ordre.

Lord M. Le gourmand n’est jamais gourmet; l’un mange sans déguster, l’autre déguste en mangeant.

S. L’homme fier et hautain, Mylord, s’occupe de son diner par besoin; l’homme du monde, épicure profond, s’en occupe avec plaisir.

Lord M. Il est certain que l’on ne saurait donner trop d’attention à la rigide exécution et à l’ordre intelligent d’un diner. Le diner étant de chaque jour, de chaque saison, de chaque siècle, est non seulement la seule mode héréditaire, mais aussi l’âme de la sociabilité; lisez l’histoire, et vous y verrez que de tous les temps, et chez tous les peuples, le bien qui s’est fait, et quelquefois le mal, fut toujours précédé ou suivi d’un copieux diner.

S. Rien, n’est plus vrai, Mylord, que de tous les plaisirs de la vie qui nous sont légués en ce monde, celui de la table est le seul auquel les rênes du char de la vie n’échappent qu’à regret; et souvent, en ami fidèle, ne les lâche qu’aux abords du tombeau; tandis que tous les autres s’épanouissent frivolement, comme à la suite d’un beau printemps, et, en nous délaissant, couvrent nos fronts radieux du givre des ans.

Lord M. Il est positif que déguster est une faculté de tout âge; un vieillard de cent six ans, que j’ai beaucoup connu, dégustait parfaitement alors.

S. Nos cent dégustateurs demandent de continuelles études, et réclament, sans cesse, un continuel changement.

Lord M. Le plus bel esprit manquerait d’éloquence s’il négligeait par trop l’ordre de ses repas.

S. C’est ce qui nous prouve, Mylord, que nos plus agréables sensations dépendent non seulement de la nature, mais aussi du soin que nous donnons à notre personne.

Lord M. Oui, car plus l’âme est sensible, plus la dégustation est féconde. Les sensations dégustatives opèrent avec autant d’activité sur le palais que le charme de la mélodie le fait sur l’ouïe; par exemple, l’homme dans un cas de folie, peut bien éprouver le besoin de manger, mais l’action enchanteresse de la dégustation lui est aussi interdite que la raison.

S. Votre argument sur ce point est extrêmement juste, Mylord. N’êtes-vous pas aussi de mon avis, que rien ne dispose mieux l’esprit humain à des transactions amicales, qu’un diner bien conçu et artistement préparé.

Lord M. C’est ce qui m’a toujours fait dire qu’un bon cuisinier est aussi utile qu’un savant conseiller.

S. Je me suis toujours aperçu, Mylord, que le palais le plus fin était le plus difficile à plaire, mais aussi le plus juste à récompenser.

Lord M. Le choix des vins est de haute importance dans l’ordre d’un diner; un vin fin, léger et généreux protège le cuisinier et devient le bienfaiteur du convive.

S. Permettez-moi de vous faire observer, Mylord, qu’une réunion gastronomique sans dames est à mes yeux un parterre sans fleurs, l’océan sans flots, une flotte maritime sans voiles.

Lord M. Certes, de telles réunions sont le berceau des bonnes mœurs et de la jovialité, comme la débauche est le tombeau de la moralité.

Reform Club, May 14, 1846.

THE KITCHEN DEPARTMENT OF THE REFORM CLUB.

“This is a curious print, and unique of its kind: it presents on a large scale a coup-d’œil of the matchless culinary arrangements of the Reform Club, the various offices for which extend over the whole basement of the building. To show them at one glance, the partition-walls are cut away, and a bird’s eye view is given of the several kitchens, larders, sculleries, and batterie de cuisine: the different functionaries are all at their ports, and the accomplished chef, Monsieur Soyer, is in the act of pointing out to a favoured visitor the various contrivances suggested by his ingenuity and experience.

“With a plan of the building, there are references to a minute explanatory account of the uses of the multifarious apparatus here exhibited, for the admiration of the scientific gastronome and the envy of rival artistes.”—Spectator.

DESCRIPTION
OF THE
KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB,
AND SIMPLE GUIDE FOR
FITTING UP THE KITCHENS OF THE WEALTHY.