The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained / With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing

by E. A. Posselt

I. The Straight-Through Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets.

Fig. CVIII.

[Fig. CVIII.], p. 73, represents the arrangement of the neck-cords with the heddles (through the harness-cords). There are two separate bottom boards in the machine, marked A, B, for ground and figure; also two corresponding lifter-boards, which are illustrated separately by [Fig. CIX.]

Fig. CIX.

The four journals are clearly illustrated by [Fig. CX.] (each journal carrying its own set of threads).

The first thread in the loom (left side) will be found on the first journal.
The second thread in the loom (left side) will be found on the third journal.
The third thread in the loom (left side) will be found on the second journal.
The fourth thread in the loom (left side) will be found on the fourth journal.

Fig. CX.

This arrangement of threads, 1, 3, 2, 4, is repeated throughout the fabric. For an example, a carpet is shown termed “extra fine,” executed on 26 “designs,” requiring 26 × 8, or 208 small squares for warp on the designing paper. Ingrain carpets are generally woven one yard wide, having in this width two repeats or divisions; hence the number of harness-cords for the present example is as follows: 26 × 8 = 208 × 2, for ground and figure; 416 × 2, for two divisions, = 832 harness-cords (or 416 leashes) required for tying-up.

Fig. CXI.

[Fig. CXI.] illustrates the adjustment of heddle (mail) and lingo through the journal, J, by means of the heavy knot at b. This knot must be large enough not to pass through the hole of the journal. The average measures for the present drawing are as follows:

Lingo, f to g = 9 inches.
Heddle, e to f = 8 inches.
c to d = 10 inches.
Mail, d to e = 6/8 inches.
Height of journal, b to c = 1-1/8 inches.
Connecting cord of heddle to harness-cord, a to b = 6 inches.

This drawing will explain the principle of raising the warp either by means of the harness-board, (arrow 1), or by means of the knot through raising the journal, (arrow 2). If raised by means of the harness-cord, the connecting heddle slides upwards in the hole provided for it in the journal; or the journal takes the place of a common comber-board; but if the journal be used for raising, the knot, b, will rise with it, carrying the heddle the same as before, the harness-cords becoming slack by this movement.

In [Fig. CVIII.], p. 73, the journals are arranged as follows:

1st journal,	} for ground,{	White, 1st set of threads.	} }For repeat, }— 238 times }over. }
2d journal,		Olive, 3d set of threads.
3d journal,	} for figure, {	Red, 2d set of threads.
4th journal,		Black, 4th set of threads.

In the same drawing are also represented the first eight heddles (in both divisions), as connected with harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8; also the last four heddles of the rear journal (fourth) connected with their corresponding cords, 404, 408, 412, 416.

The first row (1 to 8) illustrates the principle of tying-up the harness and the leasing of the heddles; whereas the four heddles in the rear (404, 408, 412, and 416) show the practical commencement of the tie-up, i. e., four neck-cords in succession to four heddles of the journal.

A represents bottom-board in the machine where the neck-cords for the ground harness-cords pass through. B, the bottom-board in the machine where the neck-cords for the figure harness-cords pass through.

In [Fig. CIX.], showing the lifter-boards, A is also used for the ground, and B for the figure; 26 rows of the machine are shown for explaining the tie-up for a texture known as “extra fine,” or equal to 832 heddles in the width of loom (one yard).

Jacquard machines for two-ply ingrain carpets are usually constructed with 34 rows, and 33-1/2 of these are used. 33-1/2 rows have 33-1/2 × 8, or 268 needles, which carry 1072 threads, the number actually used in what is termed a full “extra super.” Should only 30 of these be used, having 30 × 8, or 240 needles, and carrying 960 threads for warp, the carpet is termed “super;” and if 25 rows, with 25 × 8 = 200 needles are used, carrying 800 threads, the product is called “fine” ingrain, and represents about the lowest grade of these carpets. It frequently happens that we find slight variations in the number of threads used in the various grades of carpet named. The pattern may require such a change, or economy in production may induce the maker to use a smaller number; or, as is done in a few instances, a manufacturer may always make his “extra super” on 32 rows; but all such changes are done by a corresponding depreciation of the value of the fabric, as compared with a full “extra super” of 33-1/2 rows.

Fig. CXII.

Fig. CXIV. Fig. CXIII.

[Fig. CIX.], p. 74, illustrates the full 34 rows, and indicates 26 rows used for illustration of tie-up (4 rows empty on each side). In power-looms the raising of the different journals is generally accomplished by an arrangement of cams, but in hand-looms it is done by the lifter-boards.

In [Fig. CIX.] the four large holes on each side are made for this purpose, and the wires for raising the journals are shown by heavy lines in tie-up in [Fig. CVIII.], p. 73. [Fig. CXII.] represents the process of lifting the journals, as follows:

First pick raises lifter-board A, journal 4; second pick raises lifter-board B, journal 1; third pick raises lifter-board A, journal 3; fourth pick raises lifter-board B, journal 2.

The two positions of the four “tails” in these four picks are illustrated as follows: [Fig. CXIII.], hole in cylinder; CXIV., no hole in cylinder. The black spots represent the knots, either as caught in the slot or passing free in the hole.

Looms tied-up on the foregoing principles have but one operation of the Jacquard needles for every two picks of the loom, there being an operation of the ground and figure lifter-boards in succession between the operations of the Jacquard needles. Each Jacquard needle controls two tails, one connected with the warp for the figure, (red and black in our example), and the other to the warp for the ground, (olive and white in our example). The drawing of the lifter-boards shows the slots for catching the tails in opposite directions from each other; hence, when the figuring tail of the needle is adjusted so as to be lifted by the figure lifter-board, the ground-tail will not be acted on by the ground lifter-board when it rises.

To give a clear understanding of the foregoing explanations, a detailed statement of the operations of the loom necessary in weaving a piece of the fabric is shown in sectional cut [Fig. CVII.], as follows:

Pick.	Color.	Lift-board for figure.	Lift-board for ground.	Journal lifts.	Threads down.
1	White.	Rises, no lift.	At rest.	White to bind on face.	Red, black, olive.
2	Red.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Red.	Black for binding on back.
3	Olive.	Rises, no lift.	At rest.	Olive to bind on face.	Red, black, white.
4	Black.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Black.	Red for binding on back.
5	White.	Rises, no lift.	At rest.	White to bind on face.	Red, black, olive.
6	Red.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Red.	Black for binding on back.
7	Olive.	Rises, no lift.	At rest.	Olive to bind on face.	Red, black, white.
8	Black.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Black.	Red for binding on back.
9	White.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	White.	Olive for binding on back.
10	Red.	At rest.	Rises, no lift.	Red to bind on face.	Black, white, olive.
11	Olive.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	Olive.	White for binding on back.
12	Black.	At rest.	Rises, no lift.	Black to bind on face.	Red, white, olive.
13	White.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	White.	Olive for binding on back.
14	Red.	At rest.	Rises, no lift.	Red to bind on face.	Black, white, olive.
15	Olive.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	Olive.	White for binding on back.
16	Black.	At rest.	Rises, no lift.	Black to bind on face.	Red, white, olive.
17	White.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	White.	Olive to bind on back.
18	Red.	At rest.	Rises, no lift.	Red to bind on face.	Black, white, olive.
19	Olive.	Rises, no lift.	At rest.	Olive to bind on face.	White, red, black.
20	Black.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Black.	Red to bind on back.
21	White.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	White.	Olive to bind on back.
22	Red.	At rest.	Rises, no lift.	Red to bind on face.	Black, white, olive.
23	Olive.	Rises, no lift.	At rest	Olive to bind on face.	White, red, black.
24	Black.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Black.	Red to bind on back.
25	White.	Rises, no lift.	At rest.	White to bind on face.	Olive, red, black.
26	Red.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Red.	Black to bind on back.
27	Olive.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	Olive.	White to bind on back.
28	Black.	At rest.	Rises, no lift.	Black to bind on face.	Red, white, olive.
29	White.	Rises, no lift.	At rest.	White to bind on face.	Olive, red, black.
30	Red.	At rest.	Lifts white and olive.	Red.	Black to bind on back.
31	Olive.	Lifts red and black.	At rest.	Olive.	White to bind on back.
32	Black.	At rest.	Rises,	Black to bind	Red, white,

Fig. CXV.

[Fig. CXV.], p. 76, illustrates a fabric design for an ingrain carpet, straight-through tie-up, a and b forming one repeat, (or one division), equal to one-half yard.