III. The Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks.
Jacquard machines having this construction are generally employed in the manufacture of ingrain carpets.
Fig. CV.
[Fig. CV.] represents the sectional cut of one row of needles across the machine; also the necessary boards for guiding and operating the tail-cords. This machine consists of two divisions (I. and II.,) which are worked alternately for the common 2-ply ingrain carpet.
A, represents the top board, to which the tail-cords are fastened around a wire by knot shown below the boards. Each board is 6-1/4 by 3/4 inches, with a distance of 1-1/4 inches between them.
B, represents the “Lifter-boards” (trap-boards) which are shown in top view in the special article devoted to the manufacture of ingrain carpets. ([Fig. CIX.], p. 74.) Its dimensions are 6-1/4 inches by 1 inch. Distance from top-boards to lifter-boards, 9-1/4 inches. C to D, needle-board. Arrow, S, the direction of working the cylinder towards the needles. F to G, the needle-box with its pin for holding the needles in position. Each needle is connected to two tail-cords, as indicated in the drawing, one for figure and one for ground. H and L are the two guide-boards for the tail-cords. Distance from B to H, 7-1/4 inches, from H to L, 8-1/2 inches. Dimensions of each guide-board, 6-1/4 inches by 3/4 inch. Each tail-cord is weighted by a small lead weight, as shown at K in drawing.
In this machine the springs for the needles are omitted, and a board large enough to cover the ends of all the needles, substituted. [See arrow, P.]
Fig. CVI.
[Fig. CVI.] illustrates the rear view of the needle-box, B, and the board for pressing the needles, A. C shows the hanger, which is attached (movable) to the top of the machine. [See E, in [Fig. CV].]
Tying-up of Jacquard Harness for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets.
With a General Description of the Working of the Loom and Construction of the Fabric.
Two-ply Ingrain Carpet is an article composed of two fabrics, produced on the regular double-cloth system. These two fabrics are arranged in the loom to form figures by a simple exchanging of positions. A great variety of colors may be put into each of these separate fabrics, (ground and figure), and the most elaborate designs may be used. On every part of the carpet where these two fabrics do not exchange, each works on the plain weave. The exchanging of these two fabrics binds both into one, thus forming the ingrain carpet. In the manufacture of this carpet four sets of warp-threads, and also four sets of filling-threads are generally employed; but, if occasionally more or less should be used, in warp or in filling, or in both, in the same fabric, the principle of exchanging is still observed. If employing four sets in warp and filling, two sets of each are used for forming the figure, the other two sets forming the ground, each of the figure-threads having as its mate one of the ground-threads. These threads are so arranged that when a figure-thread appears upon the face of the fabric its mate appears upon the back, and when the figure-thread appears upon the back the corresponding ground-thread appears upon the face.
Fig. CVII.
To give a clearer understanding of the foregoing, a sectional cut of an Ingrain carpet fabric is given in [Fig. CVII.]
Suppose the filling-threads for the figure to be:
Red, indicated by heavy shaded circles; picks 2, 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30.
Black, indicated by full black circles; picks 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32.
And the filling-threads for the ground to be:
White, indicated by empty circles; picks 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29.
Olive, indicated by light shaded circles; picks 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31.
A careful examination of the drawing shows that the white threads mate with the red, and the black threads with the olive, so that when one of these colors shows upon the face the mating color will show upon the back, and vice versa.
As a general rule, these warp-threads are of the same color as the weft-threads; hence, every filling pick, appearing either on face or back, is bound by a warp-thread of the same color. The sectional cut represents four distinct effects with 32 picks, thus allowing 8 picks for the illustration of each part.
1st effect, picks 1 to 8, is ground up (white and olive).
2d effect, picks 9 to 16, is figure up (red and black).
3d effect, picks 17 to 24, is 1st effect in "shot about" (red and olive up).
4th effect, picks 25 to 32, is 2d effect in "shot about" (white and black up).
Two methods of tying-up Jacquard harness are in use:
1st, the “straight-through” principle, (known to the trade as “cross-point”).
2d, the “point” method, (known to the trade as “centre-tie”).