Selection of Designing Paper For Double Cloth.
In fabrics where one line (visible across the face) is produced by two or more different colored threads, (each pick forming part face, part body or back of the fabric), the designing paper to be used is shown by the proportion of the line effects to the warp-threads (figure) per inch. Example: Take a dress-goods fabric, extra figured in the filling, having the following texture: Warp, 60 ends per inch; filling, 100 picks per inch, double system, 1 pick for ground, 1 pick for figure. The paper required is as 60:(100 ÷ 2) or as 60:50 = 12 × 10, or 6 × 5.
The figure is painted upon the paper in various colors and by the card-stamping when cutting the ground cards. The extra colors are treated as if they were ground. When cutting for the extra figure, deal with it alone.
If a fabric has the double-cloth system applied to the warp, only using one filling for both kinds of warp, and the Jacquard-harness is tied-up for “single sections,” the squared designing paper required is found from the proportion of the number of face and back warp-threads per inch, to the number of picks per inch. Example: Take a dressgoods fabric constructed on the following texture: 80 ends warp, 1 end ground, 1 end figure, and 60 picks to 1 inch. The proportion for the paper is as 80:60, or 8 × 6 designing paper.
If the tie-up in the loom is for double sections, ([Fig. LIV.] or [LVI.]), the fabric in the previous example requires the comparison of the face-warp with the filling, and the answer is: 80 ÷ 2 or 40 ends of face-warp per inch, 60 picks filling per inch, giving the proportion of 40 to 60, requiring 8 × 12, or 4 × 6 designing paper for the figure. The ground part of the design is executed separately on the same kind of paper; or if the weave is of a short repeat, stamped without design.
In selecting the □ designing paper for double cloth, such as cloakings, coatings, etc., made with a back-warp, and executed on any of the single section tie-ups, use the lines between the squares to indicate the back-warp and back-filling. The proportion of ends of face-warp to face-filling in one inch of the finished fabric indicates the kind of paper needed.
Example: If a fabric has the following texture:
Warp, 2 ends face, 1 end back, 90 ends per inch.
Filling, 3 ends face, 1 end back, 132 picks "
The kind of designing paper needed is found by dividing 90 by 3, and multiplying by 2, thus: 90 ÷ 3 × 2 = 60, number of ends of face-warp per inch, and 132 ÷ 4 × 3 = 99, number of picks filling per inch, giving a 60 × 99 paper, or its equivalent, 6 × 10.
Face cards for these fabrics must be stamped twice, first for the face weave, and afterward for the binder. If using a 12-row machine, use punches 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, and 11, for face; 3, 6, 9, and 12, for the back of the fabric.