The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained / With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing

by E. A. Posselt

Selection of Designing Paper for Single Cloth.

For single cloth the character of the designing paper is ascertained by the number of warp and filling threads required per inch in the finished fabric. For example: A damask fabric with a texture, when finished, of 80/120 (80 ends warp and 120 picks filling per inch) will require a designing paper of corresponding proportion, or as 80 is to 120, = 8 × 12.

In stripes, checks, etc., the texture in part of the fabric is changed; such changes require separate designs. If the difference is only slight, one kind of paper is used. Select the paper derived through the proportion of the two as required. For example: A dressgoods fabric forming two distinct effects in one repeat of 400 warp-threads (200 successive ends required for each effect).

The first effect made on a texture 60/80.
The second effect made on a texture 80/80.

Two distinct designs (one for each effect) are required:

For the first effect use a paper proportioned as 60 to 80, or 6 × 8.
For the second effect use a paper proportioned as 80 to 80, or 8 × 8.

If only one kind of □ designing paper be used for both effects, find the average of the warp, thus: 6 + 8 = 14, and 14 ÷ 2 = 7, showing that paper 7 × 8 is the substitute. If using a designing paper under similar circumstances the sketch must be squared to correspond.