Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
B.—For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up, and for their border on point tie-up one full division for each border.
This arrangement of both foundation tie-ups resembles the preceding. The only difference is found in employing the full division of the centre or point tie-up for each border instead of the half division.
Fig. XLI.
[Fig. XLI.] illustrates this method of tying-up adjusted to a 600 Jacquard machine. The centre of the fabric requires 400 needles and hooks in 6 repeats or divisions, or 400 × 6 = 2400 warp-threads. The border calls for 204 needles and hooks, point tie-up, one full division for each side, or 204 × 2 x 2 = 816 warp-threads. The arrangement of margin and selvedge, as applied on each side, is explained separately through ground plan of comber-board by fig. XLII. The margin calls for 8 needles and 8 hooks in machine, 6 repeats of same for each side, or 96 warp-threads. The selvedge is formed by 2, 4 or 8 needles, (working plain), and has 24 heddles for each side or 48 selvedge-threads in warp. These selvedge ends may, if preferred, be drawn two ends in one heddle. By adding these different systems of threads we find:
| Centre | = | 2400 warp-threads. |
| Borders | = | 816 warp-threads.(814 if point drawn only once.) |
| Margin | = | 96 warp-threads. |
| Selvedge | = | 48 warp-threads. |
| ----- | ||
| 3360 threads in warp. | ||
For the centre part of the fabric, needle and hook 1 to 400 are used.
For the border part of the fabric, needle and hook 401 to 604 are used.
For the margin part of the fabric, needle and hook 605 to 612 are used.
Leaving one complete row of the reserve to use for selvedge, etc., if required.
Fig. XLII.
Fig. XLIII.
In drawing, [Fig. XLI.], we only illustrate centre and border of the tie-up, so as not to confuse the eye by too many lines, and, as mentioned at the beginning, employed [Fig. XLII.] for illustrating the ground plan for selvedge and margin. In selvedge and margin the harness-cords are indicated by consecutive numbers, thus:
Margin, 1 to 48.
Selvedge, 1 to 24.
When threading margin in comber-board:
1, 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, call for the same leash.
2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, call for the same leash.
3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, call for the same leash.
4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, call for the same leash.
5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, call for the same leash.
6, 14, 22, 30, 38, 46, call for the same leash.
7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, call for the same leash.
8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, call for the same leash.
Leashes in centre part of fabric, 1 to 400 call for 6 harness-cords.
Leashes in border part of fabric, 401 to 604 call for 14 harness-cords.
Leashes in margin part of fabric, 605 to 612 call for 12 harness-cords.
Leashes for selvedge if using 4 hooks, 613 to 616 call for 12 harness-cords.
This tie-up is the one most frequently employed in the manufacture of damask table-covers. Not only will drawings and explanations lead to a thorough understanding of the procedure, but they will also readily show the great variety of textile fabrics to which the principle of this tie-up may be applied.
[Fig. XLIII.] illustrates the margin arranged 8 threads for each row, and 5 rows or 40 threads for each side. The selvedge in this drawing is illustrated by one complete row of 12 double threads for each side. The selvedge and margin holes are all represented shaded. The selvedge is marked S in addition to the number. The five margin rows are indicated each by figures 1 to 8. The nearest row of border is also represented, being numbered 401 to 412, corresponding to [Fig. XLI.] This method of using only 8 rows of the 12-row deep comber-board is extensively used in fabrics of a common texture, employing an 8 harness satin for the margin as weave, which repeats once for each row in comber-board. Besides, a great advantage results from being able to tie-up 8 leashes threaded 8 rows deep in comber-board to the 8 hooks in 1 row of the machine, which the weave calls for.
Fig. XLIV.
Fig. XLV.
[Fig. XLIV.] and [Fig. XLV.] represent designs for fabrics executed on this method of tying-up.
[Fig. XLIV.]—A to B = border, C the centre.
B to D = margin, between centre and border.
D to E = 1 repeat of the centre, 6 times over in width of fabric.
[Fig. XLV.]—A to B = border, C its centre.
B to D = centre, 6 times over in width of fabric.