V. “Straight-Through” and “Point” Tie-ups Combined.
A.—For fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up and for their borders a point tie-up, one-half division of it for each border.
Fig. XXXVIII.
These tie-ups are used to a great extent for napkins, handkerchiefs, scarfs, and similar damask fabrics, in which the centre part of the fabric is worked on the straight-through method; the borders on each side on the point tie-up, repeating equally from centre towards the selvedge. In the other two borders to be woven at the beginning and the end of the fabric, the same principle is observed, thus producing four corner squares, only two of which need be designed, as the other two repeat through the arrangement of the tie-up, which must repeat equally towards both sides of the border at the connecting places.
[Fig. XXXVIII.] illustrates this method of tying-up a 200 machine, using 192 hooks and needles, equal to 24 long rows of a regular 8-row deep machine. The machine is divided into two sections, as follows:
| Needles 1 to 96 for the 1st section or centre. | ||
| Needles 97 to 192 for the 2d section or the border. | ||
| 4 repeats of centre, | = 4 x 96 = 384 | ends. |
| 2 repeats of border, one for each side, | = 2 x 96 = 192 | ends. |
| ---- | ||
| 576 | ends in fabric, not including selvedge. | |
The drawing represents four divisions for the centre, hence four harness-cords for each leash. The border, having only two repeats in the fabric, will contain only two harness-cords to one leash. In the drawing the first full row of the machine is indicated, which is equal to the first row deep of every centre division; containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. We also show (heavy line) the last centre leash, No. 96 being the last hook of row 12 of the machine. The borders A´ and A´´ are from the same design, but the figure runs in an opposite direction in each one, as indicated by the arrows in the comber-board above. Border A´ commences with harness-cord from leash 192, ending with harness-cord from leash 97, near the centre design. Border A´´ commences with harness-cord from leash 97, near the centre design, ending with harness-cord from leash 192 near the selvedge. The great difficulty to be overcome in arranging these patterns for the loom is in the union of the two tie-ups, the straight-through and the point.
As previously stated, the borders A´ and A´´ are made with the point tie-up, while the remainder of the borders are made with the straight-through tie-up. The combination of these two tie-ups occurs in the corner squares of the border, and the arrangement must be such as will permit the two sides of the corner patterns to properly unite with the design for the balance of the border.
Ground plan for above fabric: Letters A, C, D, B, F, correspond to same letters as used on the outside of fabric design. S, S´, S´´, S´´´, S´´´´, also correspond for centre division.
Fig. XXXIX.
For the purpose of giving a correct comprehension of the foregoing explanation of tying-up, but under a different arrangement, [Fig. XXXIX.] was designed for a 600 machine, having the same arrangement of the borders, viz.: point tie-up, using one-half division for each side; the centre a straight tie-up, but employing only one repeat. The following particulars will explain the entire procedure:
200 needles and hooks are used for borders, point tie-up, once through, equals 1/2 division for each border. [See letters B and B´ on comber-board.]
Fig. XL.
400 needles and hooks are used for centre, straight tie-up, one repeat. [See letter C on comber-board.]
| 200 ends for each border, | = | 400 warp-threads. |
| 200 ends for centre, | = | 400 warp-threads. |
| ---- | ||
| 800 warp-threads. | ||
In the ground plan of the fabric A is the centre; B, B´, B´´, B´´´, borders; C, C´, C´´, C´´´, corners.
[Fig. XL.] is a fabric design executed on this principle: a to b, border; c to d, centre; b to a, repeat of the first border.