Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

D.—For fabrics composed of the straight-through tie-up for centre; the point tie-up, half divisions, and the point tie-up, full divisions, for borders.

This method of tie-up is used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask napkins, containing in its centre the monogram of hotels, restaurants, or private names. This effect is produced by floating the filling.

Fig. XLIX.

In this manner, we find tie-up, [Fig. XLIX.], and fabric sample, [Fig. L.], executed, using for explanation a 400 Jacquard machine, certainly very low texture for these fabrics. In case of a higher texture being necessary, each effect must be proportionally increased. The machines most generally used for this class of fabrics are of the 900-1200 denomination.

Fig. L.

Taking the present tie-up into consideration, we find the centre for forming the monogram, containing 200 harness-cords tied-up straight-through the borders on each side of the monogram, is executed on the point tie-up, one-half section for each side, taking 100 needles and hooks, or harness-cords. The outside border on each side is executed on the point tie-up, using one complete division of it for each side; and in addition, 100 harness-cords for the working. Adding these various divisions of the harness-cords gives the number of warp-threads as follows, viz.:

Border, N,100 needles on point = 200 threads, (199 if omitting
the pointthe second time).
Border, M, 100 needles on straight = 100 threads.
Centre, L, 200 needles on straight = 200 threads.
Border, , 100 needles on return = 100 threads.
Border, , 100 needles on point = 200 threads, (199 if omitting
the double point.)
----
800 threads.

For number of harness cords to each leash we find:

Needles and hooks, 1 to 100 = 4 cords to each leash.
Needles and hooks, 101 to 200 = 2cords to each leash.
Needles and hooks, 201 to 400 = 1 cord to each leash.

[Fig. LI]. illustrates a fabric, damask table-cover, to be executed on the same principle.

Fig. LI.

Margin = a to b and h to i.
Border { small = {b to c and return c to d} Point.
{f to g and return g to h}
{ main = d to e and return e to f Point.
Centre = 1st division i to k, straight-through.

This fabric can also be executed on the tie-up explained through [Fig. XLI.], as follows:

Border = a to i on point tie-up, e for centre or point.
Centre = 1st division i to k, straight-through.