Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
E.—Mixed Tie-up.
Containing in one repeat of the design the straight-through tie-up and the point tie-up, one full division, for the centre; the point tie-up, in half divisions, repeating once through on each side of the fabric, to make the border. These arrangements of tie-ups are used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask fabrics of every denomination.
The principle of using mixed tie-ups, [Fig. LII.], is found in the necessity of producing large designs, containing varied effects, with a proportionally smaller Jacquard machine. Under whatever management the straight-through and the point tie-ups are combined, their principle remains undisturbed. Every time we arrange a Jacquard loom on a mixed tie-up, we must consider that any subsequent design must be arranged with reference to the same principle as the one in use, otherwise the work must all be rearranged, which would have to be done even for the smallest change in the number of ends for each effect.
Fig. LII.
Fig. LIII.
Take for illustration a damask fabric, [Fig. LIII.], handkerchief, bureau scarf, art square, etc. The details given will make the work quite plain:
Part of comber-board from A to B, or D to C, illustrates one-half of the board and procedure of tying-up. The design below also shows only one-half of the fabric. Arrow, G, near comber-board, and arrow, M, near fabric, are placed to indicate the direction in which a repeat is obtained. The fabric will form its centre at D, repeating towards each border and selvedge. This is illustrated in the comber-board by the 1-row deep, outside of line A, D. Harness-cords indicated by dotted lines. The threading of this last mentioned row, as well as the threading of the half division of the point tie-up, is indicated by arrows H and K, forming the centre by means of harness-cords 193 and 193. The straight-through tie-up part of the fabric is found between E and F, containing 12 repeats in the centre, and also the same number in the lower border. In the comber-board is illustrated this arrangement, repeating the first row, containing harness-cords 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, twelve times, and the last hole of the third row containing harness-cord No. 24, twelve times. On the bottom of the comber-board these 12 repeats are indicated by 12 small arrows between parts E to F.
The first row in the first division of the straight-through tie-up is completely threaded; the other eleven have only the harness-cord from leash 1, as indicated; this is done so as not to confuse the eye with too many lines. The border of the fabric is arranged for harness-cords 25 to 192 on the point tie-up, having one-half division on each side. Arrow L indicates the right-hand border. The border on the left requires the same harness-cords which are threaded in comber-board from right to left; hence the borders of the fabric contain the same design repeating from the centre towards the selvedge.
At the beginning we stated that the use of mixed tie-ups made it possible to employ a smaller size Jacquard machine for large designs containing various effects. The following analysis of [Fig. LII.] shows very clearly how this is done.
Number of warp-ends in one complete repeat in width of the fabric:
Border, right-hand, = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 threads.
Centre, point-tie, { = 168 threads.
{ = 168 threads.
Centre, straight-tie, = 288 threads.
Border, left-hand, = 168 threads.
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1248 ends warp in fabric.
Number of needles required to produce the design:
Border, = 168 needles.
Centre on straight-tie, = 24 needles.
Centre on point-tie, = 168 needles.
360 needles required for producing the complete design, thus saving the difference between 1248 and 360, or 888 needles; all of which is accomplished through the use of the mixed tie-up.
Number of harness-cords required for each leash:
Leashes 1 to 24 contain 24 cords for one repeat of the entire design. Leashes 25 to 360 contain 2 cords for one repeat of the entire design. It is not always practicable to reduce the effects in a design to the lowest possible number of needles. On account of the changes in styles, it is best to arrange these tie-ups with a view to giving as much opportunity as possible to the designer. In the present tie-up experience teaches that it will be more advantageous to arrange the straight-through tie-up either for 6 divisions to 48 ends each, or 4 divisions to 72 ends each. 360 needles, as figured at the beginning, require a 400 machine, or, counting reserve rows, 416 needles; hence we can, without disadvantage, increase 360 needles to 384 or 408, which will give a greater scope, if required, to make a new design.
VI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Two Sections.
A.—Using machine and comber-board in two equal sections.
Fig. LIV.
This tie-up, [Fig. LIV.], is used on fabrics having two different kinds of warp, which, as a rule, are of different colors. One of these warps is shown working at B in the comber-board, and also at the bottom-board. The other warp employed for the figure effect is shown working at A. Fabrics that are made on this tie-up can also be made on the common straight-through; but the work of designing and card stamping will be largely increased. In the illustration all the figure-threads, and also all the threads used for the weave (binder-threads) can be designed without interruption to each other. The breaking off of the figures is thus avoided, a thing quite impossible where the regular straight-through tie-up is used. The drawing given herewith represents this straight-through tie-up in sections applied to a 200 Jacquard machine. The reserve rows are omitted. The machine and the comber-board, it will be observed, are divided into two even parts. In one part, the rear of A, of the comber-board we thread only in the leashes from needles 1 to 100, and in the other part, front of B, from needles 101 to 200. Hence, the first row of the comber-board contains leashes 1 to 4 and 101 to 104; the second row will contain leashes 5 to 8 and 105 to 108; the third row will contain leashes 9 to 12 and 109 to 112, and so on, each division finishing on the last row (25th) with leashes 97 to 100 and 197 to 200.
The leasing of the threads is always done by alternately threading the harness-cords of section A with section B. Hence, first thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 1; second thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 101; third thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 2; fourth thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash No. 102.
Fig. LV.
[Fig. LV.], a fabric design for cloaking for straight-through tie-up in two sections. A, face warp, black silk; B, back warp, black cotton.
B. Using two machines and a comber-board having equal sections.
Fig. LVI.
Sometimes two or more machines are employed in producing fabrics having two systems of warps; each machine working on its own system. In this manner [Fig. LVI.] is executed, representing a straight-through tie-up arranged for two Jacquard machines, S and H, in which the warp is drawn in the Jacquard harness as follows: one end from machine S, one end from machine H. For explanation two 100 Jacquard machines are used for the purpose of simplifying the arrangements of laying out and threading the comber-board. A larger Jacquard machine for the illustrations would require more leashes, and the explanation would be more difficult.
The comber-board, a, b, c, d, is divided into two equal parts, S and H. Each part containing the harness-cord for one machine only. The drawing of the tie-up is arranged for two divisions, and also readily explains any tie-up for more divisions.
The leasing of the Jacquard harness, K, is arranged (as illustrated in the drawing by leash-rods p and r) to commence as follows:
1st end: harness-cord fastened to No. 1 needle of machine, S; 2d end to No. 1º needle of machine, H; 3d end to No. 2 needle of machine, S; 4th end to No. 2º needle of machine, H; 5th end to No. 3 needle of machine, S; 6th end to No. 3º needle of machine, H; 7th end to No. 4 needle of machine, S; 8th end to No. 4º needle of machine, H.
These eight ends, forming the first complete row of the comber-board, will use the first row of both machines; the second row of the comber-board will use the second row of both machines; and so on, until every row of the comber-board, with corresponding row of the Jacquard machine, is taken up. In the drawing we have indicated, as usual, besides the first row, the last row of the machine and the comber-board; or, in other words, we show the threading of
Warp end 193: harness-cord fastened to No. 97 needle of harness S.
Warp end 194: harness-cord fastened to No. 97º needle of harness H.
Warp end 195: harness-cord fastened to No. 98 needle of harness S.
Warp end 196: harness-cord fastened to No. 98º needle of harness H.
Warp end 197: harness-cord fastened to No. 99 needle of harness S.
Warp end 198: harness-cord fastened to No. 99º needle of harness H.
Warp end 199: harness-cord fastened to No. 100 needle of harness S.
Warp end 200: harness-cord fastened to No. 100º needle of harness H.
Fig. LVII.
This method of using two Jacquard machines, on the principle explained, is employed on Jacquard looms for dressgoods figured with an extra warp, on upholstery goods, and similar textile fabrics.
[Fig. LVII.] shows a fabric design for a curtain, to be executed on the straight-through tie-up in two sections.
C.—Using one machine and one comber-board: the machine unequally divided and the comber-board equally divided.
To explain, take the regular upholstery fabric tie-up known as “petty point,” on a 600 machine 12 rows in depth. 600 ÷ 12 = 50 + 2 rows reserve = 52 rows in width. We find used—
| 1 | row for selvedge. |
| 10 | rows for binders (B). |
| 41 | rows for figure (A). |
| --- | |
| 52 | rows. |
41 (rows figure) × 12 (needles for one row) = 492 needles to be used for figure.
10 (rows binder) × 12 (needles for one row) = 120 needles to be used for binder.
Suppose we have four divisions in loom, hence, four harness-cords to one leash, for the figure section, or 492 × 4 = 1968 ends of warp used for figure. 1968 threads of figure warp require the same number of threads of ground warp, which must be divided by 120, the number of needles and hooks set apart for it in the machine, or—as each needle and hook carries one leash—120 leashes. 1968 ÷ 120 = 16 repeats; and 48 leashes, or four rows in the machine, must each have 17 harness-cords carrying 816 threads; and 72 leashes, or six rows in the machine, must each have 16 harness-cords carrying 1152 threads, = 1968.