VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single).
This tie-up (the character of which is indicated in [Fig. LVIII.]) is used for textile fabrics having two distinct warps in part of the fabric, and a single warp in the remainder, for ground only. It will readily be seen in the drawing which explains this tie-up that one part of the fabric will have to contain more ends of warp per inch than the other, as the figuring is done with an extra warp upon the regular ground cloth. The number of ends of ground warp per inch will, as a general rule, be the same throughout the fabric. In [Fig. LVIII.], explaining this method of tying-up, the texture is twice as high in the figure stripe as in the ground part of the fabric. If 40 ends of warp per inch are used for the ground, 80 ends per inch must be used in the figured part, B to C, B´ to C´.
Fig. LVIII.
A 200 machine is used in the illustration, divided as follows:
150 needles for the ground over the entire fabric, A to B´´.
50 needles for the figure effects, B to C, and B´ to C´.
The comber-board, therefore, must be arranged accordingly, (2-2/3 divisions in drawing executed). The depth of the comber-board is divided into two parts: H, M, N, K, the first; M, N, O, P, the second. The first contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to needles 151 to 200, or the figure part, F and F´; the second contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to the needles 1 to 150, or the ground part for the entire fabric. In the drawing of lines showing the harness-cords of the Jacquard harness we have only indicated:
A. The ground part, leashes Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4 in rotation, and No. 150. This last leash of the ground warp we have indicated by a heavy line.
B. For the figure part, needles 151 to 200 are used. Leashes 151, 152, 153, 154, are indicated in rotation, also the leash operated by hook 200; this latter one being also lined more distinctly than the others.
These explanations readily show how to adapt the tying-up for any textile fabric made upon this principle to any number Jacquard machine.