VIII. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Three Sections.
The straight-through tie-up in three sections, which is illustrated by drawings, [Figs. LIX.] and [LX.], is largely used in the manufacture of fancy plushes and velvets, and also in the construction of any other kinds of fabrics in which the face is figured in three systems of warps, or in two systems of warps for the face and one system for the binder.
If it were required, these fabrics could be made on the straight tie-up, (Figs. [XXV.], [XXVIII.] and [XXX.]), but, as will readily be seen, they may be worked to much better advantage, both for designing and card-stamping, upon the method shown here.
Fig. LIX.
[Fig. LIX.] illustrates the method of adjusting the leashes to the neck-cords and threading the comber-board. In the example, we use for describing the method a 900 Jacquard machine, and follow the English system for placing it on the loom. The machine is divided into three sections: Section 1, using hooks and needles 1 to 300; Section 2, using hooks and needles 301 to 600; Section 3, using hooks and needles 601 to 900, leaving the two reserve rows (generally found in every machine) out of the illustration.
The comber-board is divided into two divisions lengthways, (but the same method must be observed if more than two divisions are used), and also into three sections in its depth. The number of sections in the comber-board must correspond to the number of sections in the machine.
The threading of the machine is done from the rear towards the front, and from the left towards the right. The threading of the comber-board is done in a corresponding manner. 300 ends for each section in one division, divided by 4 rows deep each section, making 75 cross-rows. Threading of the Jacquard harness is as follows:
| No. 1 | from Section 1, white. |
| 301 | from Section 2, shaded. |
| 601 | from Section 3, black. |
| 2 | from Section 1, white. |
| 302 | from Section 2, shaded. |
| 602 | from Section 3, black. |
| 3 | from Section 1, white. |
| 303 | from Section 2, shaded. |
| 603 | from Section 3, black. |
| 4 | from Section 1, white. |
| 304 | from Section 2, shaded. |
| 604 | from Section 3. black. |
| 5 | from Section 1, white. |
| 305 | from Section 2, shaded. |
| 605 | from Section 3, black. |
Fig. LX.
And so on; all of which are shown separately in [Fig. LX].
R and R´´ are for the two-lease strings; S, the successive order of threads; S´´, the number of leashes. Hooks and needles correspond with drawing A. White warp-threads indicate section 1; shaded warp-threads, section 2; black warp-threads, section 3. The fine lines in [Fig. LIX.] indicate the leashes for the first row deep of the comber-board; the heavy lines indicate the last leash for each section.
[Fig. LXI.] illustrates a fabric designed for this tie-up. The various small star effects are arranged on the principle of the 5-leaf satin.
Fig. LXI.