FOOTNOTES:
[1] That the onion, garlic, and radish were held in particular esteem is attested by Herodotus, who says in his time (450 B.C.) there was an inscription on the Great Pyramid, stating that a sum amounting to sixteen hundred talents had been paid out for these three forms of food, which had been consumed by the workmen during the progress of its erection.
[2] The world has scarcely been as liberal to literature as to gastronomy; although the graceful French poet, the Abbé Philippe Desportes, who so celebrated his mistresses Diane, Hypolite and Cléonice in verse, was munificently rewarded for his lyrical talent by Henry III, and presented besides with an abbey worth an annual rental of ten thousand crowns for having written a sonnet which captivated the Duc de Joyeuse, brother-in-law of the king.
[3] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.
[4] Sir Theodore Martin's transl.
[5] Tobacco, unknown to the ancients, did not come into use among Asiatic and European peoples until the latter half of the sixteenth century, or a long period after the discovery of America—nearly all its species being of American origin. Its name, Nicotiana, was derived from that of John Nicot of Nismes, ambassador from the King of France to Portugal, who procured the first seeds from a Dutchman who had them from Florida.
[6] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.
[7] "My red wing gives me my name; but it is my tongue that is considered savory by epicures. What if my tongue had been able to sing?"—Martial, Epigrams: "The Flamingo."
[8] The Duc de Montausier used to say, Qu'a sa tenue de convive on reconnaissait un gentilhomme.
[9] Les Delices de la Campagne. Suitte du Jardinier françois ov est enseigne a preparer pour l'vsage de la vie tout ce qui croist sur la Terre & dans les Eaux. Dedie avx dames Mesnageres. À Paris, chez Pierre Des-Hayes, 1654.
[10] The cause assigned to Vatel's death has been disputed, some having maintained it was not owing to the non-arrival of the fish, but because on cooking the fish they were found "not to be so fresh as they might be."
[11] Les Soupers de la Cour, ou l'art de travailler toutes sortes d'alimens. Pour servir les meilleures Tables, suivant les quatre Saisons. A Paris chez Guillyn, Libraire, 1755.
[12] L'Art du Cuisinier, par A. Beauvilliers, Ancien Officier de Monsieur, comte de Provence, Attaché aux Extraordinaires des Maisons Royales et actuellement Restaurateur, rue de Richelieu, No. 26 à la grande Taverne de Londres. A Paris, chez Pillet Ainé, 1814, 2 vols.
Défendez que personne, an milieu d'un banquet,
Ne vous vienne donner un avis indiscret;
Ecartez ce facheux qui vers vous s'achemine—
Rien ne doit déranger l'honnête homme qui dîne.
[14] L'Art de dîner en ville à l'usage des gens de lettres, poème en iv chants. Seconde édition revue et corrigée. Paris, Delaunay; Colnet, 1810.
[15] Herrick, "Hesperides."
[16] The English housewife; containing the inward and outward Vertues which ought to be in a compleat Woman; as to her skill in Physicke, Cookery, Ordering of Great Feasts, etc., etc. London, 1631.
[17] Elizabeth Robins Pennell: "The Feasts of Autolycus."
[18] The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, which far Exceeds Every Thing of the Kind Ever yet Published. By a Lady. London: Printed for the Author; and sold at Mrs. Ashburn's, a China Shop, the Corner of Fleet Ditch.
[19] Almanach des Gourmands, Suivant de Guide Dans Les Moyens de faire excellente Chère; Par Un Viel Amateur. Troisième Edition. Revue, Corrigée et Considérablement Augmentée. A Paris. Chez Maradan, rue Pavés-Saint-André-des-Arcs, 1804, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808. Chez Joseph Chaumerot, Libraire, au Palais Royal, Galeries de Bois, 1810, 1812.
[20] Manuel des Amphitryons; contenant Un Trait de la Dissection des viandes à table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus nouveaux pour chacque saison, et des Elémens de la Politesse gourmande. Ouvrage indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère, et de la faire faire aux autres. Orné d'un grand nombre de Planches gravées en taille-douce. Par l'Auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands. A Paris, Chez Capelle et Renand, MDCCCVIII.
[21] "We shall never forget a dinner that eight of us had at M. Tailleur's, in which he made us drink forty bottles of his best wine of all kinds, and each service of which attested the competent master of the alimentary art."
L'Almanach, 4me année, p. 152.
(In depths of Seidels tall we Germans find our power,
As did in years agone our ancestors of yore;
For in the noble barley-wine there lingers still a might divine.)
[23] L'Ancienne Alsace à Table. Etude Historique et Archéologique sur l'Alimentation, les Mœurs et les Usages Epulaires de l'ancienne Province d'Alsace: par Charles Gérard, Avocat à la Cour Impériale de Colmar. Colmar, Imprimerie et Lithographie de Camille Decker, 1862. Large 8vo, pp. 269.
[24] Diese Zahl bedeutet die ununterbrochenen Dienstjahre der betr. Kellnerin.
[25] It should be distinctly stated that the rendition is by the late Rev. Francis Mahony (requiescat in pace!). Recalling his scathing stricture on "The Rogueries of Tom Moore," one were unwise not to mention the name of the scholarly paraphrast and poet, for fear that he might arise to wreak summary vengeance. But inasmuch as no authorship is assigned to the poem by the versatile bard, and as one must be on guard most of the time against the subtile spirit of fun and malice which pervades his pages, it is probable that both the French song and the rendition are by the same accomplished hand.
"Es lohnet mir heute
Mit doppelter Beute
Ein gutes Geschick;
Der redliche Diener
Bringt Hasen und Hühner
Zur Küche zurück;
Hier find ich gefangen,
Auch Vogel noch hangen.
Es lebe der Jäger,
Es lebe sein Glück!"
[27] The reader who is interested in pastoral luncheons and all their possibilities should compare the "Halts of a Shooting Party" with the chapter entitled "Des Parties de Campagne Gourmandes" in the fourth volume of the "Almanach des Gourmands."
[28] "Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, par Alexandre Dumas. Paris, Alphonse Lemerre, Editeur, Passage Choiseul, 1873."
[29] "Propos d'Art et de Cuisine."
[30] Rev. Joseph A. Ely's transl.
[31] "Le Gastronome Français" (1828). G. D. L. R., "De La Truffe."
[32] "Roti-Cochon ou Méthode Très-Facile pour bien apprendre les Enfants a Lire en Latin et en Francais, par des Inscriptions moralement expliquées de plusieurs Representations figurées de différentes choses de leurs connoissances; très utile et meme necessaire, tant pour la vie & le salut, que pour la gloire de Dieu. A Dijon, chez Claude Michard, Imprimeur & Marchand Libraire à Saint Jean l'Evangéliste."
[33] "The English system of cookery it would be impertinent for me to describe; but still, when I think of that huge round of parboiled ox-flesh, with sodden dumplings floating in a saline, greasy mixture, surrounded by carrots looking red with disgust and turnips pale with dismay, I cannot help a sort of inward shudder, and making comparisons unfavourable to English gastronomy."—Memoirs of a Stomach. Written by Himself. London, 1853.
[34] "Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine," by W. Carew Hazlitt, London, Elliot Stock, 1886.
[35] "Lo Scalco prattico di Vittorio Lancellotti da Camerino All'Illustrissimo, e Reuerendiss. Prencipe il Card. Ippolito Aldobrandino Camerlengo di Santa Chiesa. In Roma Appresso Francesco Corbelletti. 1627."
[36] Cardinal Bonnechose, who was most appropriately surnamed, is especially remembered for his bon-mot, "Le clergé est un régiment; il faut qu'il marche."
Whither, 'midst falling dew,
While glow the heavens with the last steps of day,
Far through their rosy depths dost thou pursue
Thy solitary way?
Vainly the fowler's eye
Might mark thy distant flight to do thee wrong,
As, darkly painted on the crimson sky,
Thy figure floats along....
Bryant: Lines to a Waterfowl.
[38] Mme. Récamier.
"Hart an dem Bolsener See,
Auf des Flaschenberges Hoh',
Steht ein kleiner Leichenstein
Mit der kurzen Inschrift drein:
Propter nimium Est, Est,
Dominus meus mortuus est!
"Unter diesem Monument,
Welches keinen Namen nennt,
Ruht ein Herr von deutschem Blut,
Deutschem Schlund und deutschem Mut,
Der hier starb den schönsten Tod—
Seine Schuld vergeb' ihm Gott!"
[40] "The Cook's Oracle; Containing Receipts for Plain Cookery on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families, etc. The Fourth Edition. London: Printed for A. Constable & Co. 1822."
[41] "The Original, by the Late Thomas Walker, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge. Fifth Edition. Edited by Wm. A. Guy. London, Henry Renshaw, 1875."
[42] "The Art of Dining, or Gastronomy and Gastronomers. London: John Murray, Albemarle Street, 1852." 12mo, pp. 137.
[43] "Dinners and Diners, Where and How to Dine in London. By Lieut.-Col. Newnham-Davis. A New Enlarged and Revised Edition. London: Grant Richards, 1901." Chapters LIII, pp. 376.
[44] "L'Hygiene des Hommes livrés aux Travaux de l'Esprit."
[45] "The Feasts of Autolycus—The Diary of a Greedy Woman. Edited by Elizabeth Robins Pennell. London: John Lane. New York: The Merriam Co. 1896."
[46] Coulis—a thick gravy, and also a term formerly applied to the fundamental sauces.
[47] "L'Art Culinaire."
[48] "All the entrées having the name Bayonnaises (a corrupt term for Mahonnoise) were the invention of the Maréchal, Duc de Richelieu."—Manuel des Amphitryons.
[49] The recipes for sauce à la Richelieu and Francatelli's sauce are presented respectively in the following and in a previous chapter.
[50] "Those which feed much on cantharides require to be very carefully cleaned, otherwise persons eating them are liable to suffer severely. Several gentlemen of New Orleans have assured me that they have seen persons at dinner obliged to leave the room at once, under such circumstances as cannot well be described."—Audubon: The Birds of America.
[51] "La Petite-Cuisine."
[52] "I have not defined the truffle as yet, but the definition of this subterranean mushroom which embraces within its outer covering the sporangiums filled until spores subsequently destined to reproduce it, is the result of all I have said."—Ibid.: La Truffe. Etude sur les Truffes et les Truffières. Par le Dr. C. de Ferry de la Bellone, Ancien Président de la Société de Médecine de Vaucluse, Président du Comice Agricole, etc., etc. Paris, Librairie J. B. Baillière et Fils, 1888. 8vo, pp. 312.
[53] "De la Truffe, Traite Complet de ce Tubercle, contenant sa Description et son Histoire Naturelle la plus détaillée, son Exploitation Commerciale et sa Position dans l'Art Culinaire; suivi d'une Quatrième Partie contenant les meilleurs moyens d'employer les truffes en apprêts culinaires; les meilleures méthodes d'en faire des conserves certaines; les indications, recettes et moyens les plus positifs et les plus compliqués stir tout ce qui concerne cette substance; par M. M. Moynier. Paris, Barba. 1836." pp. 400.
[54] "Our Edible Toadstools and Mushrooms, and How to Distinguish Them. A Selection of Thirty Native Food Varieties Easily Recognizable by Their Marked Individualities, with Simple Rules for the Identification of Poisonous Species. By W. Hamilton Gibson. With Thirty Colored Plates and Fifty-seven Other Illustrations by the Author. New York, Harper & Brothers, Publishers, 1895."
[55] "Annual Report of the State Botanist of the State of New York. Made to the Regents of the University, Pursuant to Chapter 355 of the Laws of 1883. By Charles H. Peck. Albany, James B. Lyon, Publisher, 1895. Second Edition, 1897."
[56] "Studies of American Fungi, Mushrooms Edible, Poisonous, etc. By George Francis Atkinson, Professor of Botany in Cornell University and Botanist of the Cornell University Experiment Station, Author of 'Studies and Illustrations of Mushrooms,' 'Biology of Ferns,' 'Elementary Botany,' 'Lessons in Botany.' With a Chapter on Recipes for Cooking Mushrooms, by Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer; on the Chemistry and Toxicology of Mushrooms, by J. F. Clark; on the Structural Characters of Mushrooms, by H. Hasselbring. With 200 Photographs by the Author, and Coloured Plates by F. R. Rathbun. Ithaca, N. Y.: Andrus and Church, Publishers, 1900."
[57] "Toadstools, Mushrooms, Fungi, Edible and Poisonous. One Thousand American Fungi. How to Select and Cook the Edible; How to Distinguish and Avoid the Poisonous, Giving Full Botanic Descriptions Made Easy for Reader and Student. By Charles McIlvaine, President Philadelphia Mycological Centre, Honorary Member Salem County and Gloucester County, N. J., Medical Societies; Assisted by Robert K. Macadam. Toadstool Poisons and Their Treatment, Instructions to Students, Recipes for Cooking, etc., etc. Indianapolis, U. S. A.: The Bowen-Merrill Company, Publishers. Edition limited to 750 copies."
"Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve,
Unwonted softness to the salad give.
Of mordant mustard add a single spoon,
Distrust the condiment that bites so soon;
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault
To add a double quantity of salt.
Three times the spoon with oil from Lucca crown,
And once with vinegar procured from town.
True flavour needs it, and your poet begs
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs;
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole.
And, lastly, on the flavoured compound toss
A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce.
Then though green turtle fail, though venison's tough,
And ham and turkey are not boiled enough,
Serenely full, the epicure may say,
'Fate cannot harm me, I have dined to-day.'"
[59] "As for the pepper, never use the powdered pepper that you buy at the grocer's and which has generally lost its flavour before it reaches the depths of the pepper-caster. The only pepper worthy to titillate the papillæ of a civilised man is that ground out of the peppercorn, at the moment of use, in a little hand-mill."—Theodore Child: Delicate Feasting.
[60] "The Story of My House": "A Blue-Violet Salad."
[61] "Jam! jam! I yield me to thy potent charm."
Transcriber's Note:
1. Original spelling has been retained.
2. Punctuation and obvious spelling errors have been corrected.