INDEX

"Accomplish'd Cook (The)," Robert May's, [99]
Ahasuerus (King), feast of, [12]
Aigrefeuille (M. d'), as an epicure, [69], [70], [129]
Aldergrove (John), on game, [354]
"Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, [70];
referred to, [73], [112] et seq., [157], [184], [233], [336];
its purpose, [132];
aphorisms of, [138-139]. Vide also "G. de la Reynière"
"Almanach Gourmand (L')," referred to, [225]
"Almanach Gourmand (Le Double)," quoted, [258]
Alsace, excellence of its cooks, [149]
"Ancienne Alsace à Table (L')," [148-150]
Angelica, [434]
Anne (Queen), as a gourmande, [102]
"Apician Morsels," a piratical volume, [336]
Apicius, as a cook, [29];
referred to, [40], [41], [50], [200]
Apios tuberosa, or ground-nut, [255]
Appetites (great), anecdote of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, [214];
anecdote of a Swiss guard, [218];
anecdote of a French drummer, [218];
anecdote of an English chaplain, [288]
Archestratus, his lost poem on gastronomy, [13]
"Art Culinaire (L')," [121], [347], [408]
"Art de Diner en Ville (L')," [76]
"Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième Siècle (L')," [206]
"Art du Cuisinier (L')," [71-72]
Arthus (Désiré), on old tavern-signs, [68]
"Art of Cookery (The)," Mrs. Glasse's, [107-111], [316]
"Art of Cookery (King's)," quoted, [93], [344]
"Art of Dining (The)," Thos. Walker's, [319];
Abraham Hayward's, [331] et seq.
Arts (the) and their masters, [131]
Athenæus, quoted, [8], [13], [16], [18], [21-23]
Attendance, importance of perfect, [321]
Audubon, on game, [362], [363], [370]
Autumn, glories of, [373] et seq., [398]
"Avalanche" (the), of Carême, [200]
Azincourt (Albouis), referred to, [130]

Baba, its history and virtues, [434]
Babiroussa (the), anecdote of, [212]
Bakers, the art of the German, [146], [171]
Baking, an ancient form of cooking, [10]
Balzac, quoted, [5], [351];
referred to, [177];
as a gastronomer, [219]
Banquets, early English, [90], [91]
Banville (Théodore de), quoted, [227];
referred to, [341], [445]
Baron Brisse, quoted, [32], [180], [344], [371], [405], [417];
as a gastronomer, [227-228];
his splendid gastronomic axiom, [228]
Barras (Vicomte de), dinner of, [65]
Baryé, referred to, [246]
Basting, importance of, [228]
Baudelaire (Charles), referred to, [445]
Beauvilliers, referred to, [6], [69], [70], [199], [202], [213], [386], [435];
quoted, [71], [110], [234], [442]
Béchamel, referred to, [54-55]
Beecher (Rev. Henry Ward), on pies, [436]
Beef, baron of, a royal dish, [92];
sirloin of, its origin, [99]
Beer, quotation in praise of, [145]
Beer-gardens, German, [151] et seq.
Beers, of Germany, [163-164], [168]
Bellone (Dr. de la), on the truffle, [390], [395]
Bénédictine, liqueur of, its history, [283-284]
Béranger, poem on the restaurant, [140]
Berchoux, referred to, [58], [72], [184];
his poem on gastronomy, [73] et seq., [385]
Bernard (Gentil), referred to, [73]
Bertinazzi (Carlin), referred to, [129]
Beverages, importance of, [4];
their relation to national cookery, [151-152], [163-164]
Bignon, anecdotes of, [342-343]
Bishop (a) of Burgundy, anecdote of, [304]
Blaze de Bury, on women, [433]
Blot (Pierre), [435]
Boar, the wild, [26], [39], [234], [236], [243], [246-247], [366]
Boar's-head, carols on the, [91], [93]
Boileau, axiom on punctuality, [269]
Boiling, a primitive method of cooking, [11]
"Boke of Keruynge," quoted, [85-87]
"Boke of Nurture," quoted, [84-85]
Bonaparte, Napoleon, as a gastronomer, [76]
Bonnechose (Cardinal), his famous mot, [284]
Bossuet, his "Oraison Funèbre" referred to, [232]
Bramble (Mathew), referred to, [324]
Bratwurst-Glöcklein, [163]
Breadstuffs, the first, [7];
used by the early English, [83]
Breckenridge (Vice-Pres.), anecdote of, [253-255]
Brontë (Charlotte), on the curate's dinner, [288]
Brouwer (Adrian), referred to, [445]
Browne (Wm.), sonnet on the mushroom, [400]
Bryant, "Lines to a Waterfowl," [292]
Bubble and Squeak, [278]
Buckland (Frank), referred to, [243]
Buffon, anecdote of, [385]
Bulwer, on the fox, [161]

Cæsar, his prodigal feasts, [44]
Café (vide also "Restaurant,") Véry, referred to, [6], [52], [213], [220], [258];
Voisin, referred to, [52];
Hardy, referred to, [52], [69], [220];
Riche, referred to, [52], [220], [250];
Véfour, referred to, [213], [258];
de Paris, referred to, [214], [219], [220], [221], [222], [258];
its great vogue in the '40's, [219];
Anglais, referred to, [220], [258];
Philippe, referred to, [258]
Caligula, referred to, [43]
Cambacérès, as a gastronomer, [69], [205];
referred to, [195]
Camerani (M.), referred to, [129]
Capon (the), as a favourite of the clergy, [306]
Caraway-seed, abuse of, in Germany, [169]
Carême, referred to, [13], [70], [194], [199-207], [211], [223], [229], [348-349], [350], [385], [408], [443];
eulogy of, [207]
Carp (the), as a favourite of the clergy, [306], [308]
Carver, Vatel's definition of a, [60]
Carving, importance of, [87], [138];
a novel monastic method of, [307]
"Castle of Indolence (The)," quoted, [238]
Cèpes. Vide "Mushrooms"
Charles II, as an epicure, [99]
Châteauroux (Duchesse de), [63]
Chatillon-Plessis, gastronomical axiom of, [265]
Cheese, Martin Schookius' book on, [146];
German varieties of, [167];
its proper place at dinner, [263];
its place and mission at dinner, [440]
Child (Theodore), as a false dietetic mentor, [417]
Civet of hare, [51]
Claré, [96]
Claudius, his great dining-room, [43]
Clergy (the), elaborate banquets given by, [90];
table excesses of, in old Alsace, [149].
Vide also individual references
Climate vs. alimentation, [168], [270], [334]
Clough (Arthur Hugh), poem on "The Dinner," [336]
"Cobbe's Prophecies," quoted, [80]
Cocktail, physiology of the, [196]
Coffee, remote use of, [9]
Colbert, referred to, [55]
"Compleat Housewife (The)," Mrs. E. Smith's, [98], [106], [109]
"Compleat Practical Cook (The)," Charles Carter's, [103]
Compots, [157], [174], [432]
Condé (Prince de), referred to, [54], [58], [60]
Contades (Maréchal de), referred to, [159]
Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, [51-52];
Berchoux's reference to a, [74];
importance of a good, [113];
attributes necessary for a good, [203], [207];
anecdote of a new, [259];
anecdote of a, [393]
Cook-book, the ideal, defined, [442-446]
Cook-books, early Italian, [49];
early Spanish, [50];
early French, [52];
early English, [81] et seq., [317];
17th-century English, [93] et seq.;
old German, [147-148], [150];
modern (vide specific references), written by the clergy, [281]
Cookery, its relation to life and health, [3], [70], [71], [251], [257-258], [286], [430];
modern progress in, [4];
vs. matrimony, [6];
Italian school of, [6], [49], [51], [195];
compared to painting, [6], [203];
in Biblical times, [7], [8], [9];
of the ancient Persians, [11], [12];
of the ancient Greeks, [13] et seq.;
of the ancient Sicilians, [14];
of the ancient Romans, [24] et seq.;
period of its greatest distinction in Rome, [25];
decline of ancient, [48];
vs. literature and art, [48];
the renaissance of, [49] et seq.;
of Spain, [50], [423];
its relation to the mind, [64], [176];
vs. diplomacy, [70];
home vs. the haute-cuisine, [72], [350], [429];
cry of its decadence, [79], [258];
Parisian school of, in England, [99];
of the English rural classes, [101], [102];
modern English, [111], [269] et seq.;
importance of good writers on, [113], [199];
period of its greatest distinction in France, [116];
complementary to national beverages, [151], [153];
excellence of German, [156], [174];
Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, [201];
of America, [249] et seq.;
of the modern French, [259] (vide also special references);
its relation to the church, [280] et seq.;
a difficult art, [442].
Vide also "Gastronomy"
Cooking-schools, [251], [260]
Cooks, jealousy of, [14], [202];
regulating the health of, [136]
"Cook's Oracle (The)," [316] et seq.
Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, [62]
Cucumber, remote use of, [9];
its virtues, [425]
Cuisine, the ideal, defined, [258]
Cuisine classique (the), [200]
"Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, [203];
referred to, [206], [349]
Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, [192]
Curé, anecdote of a, [293]
Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, [67], [127], [211], [213], [225], [305];
quoted, [120], [181], [201], [346], [383], [408]
Cuyp, referred to, [6], [203], [245]

Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, [337-339]
De Candolle, referred to, [256]
Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, [144]
Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, [112]
"Délices de la Campagne (Les)," [59]
Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, [71]
De Quincey on midday dining, [146]
"De re Culinaria," [29], [41], [50]
Désaugiers, poem on women, [119]
Dessert, its mission defined, [430];
etymology of the term, [438]
Dickens (Charles), on dining, [329]
Dinner, hours of, [83];
a good one, a simple one, [116], [320], [322], [324];
punctuality at, [126], [269], [291], [318], [319];
a wineless, [127], [263-266], [294], [295];
inhuman hours of, [145-146], [150];
its true hygienic hour, [146], [268], [269];
Savarin's definition of a perfect, [190];
Carême's classic, at the Baron Rothschild's villa, [200];
Dumas' definition of a good, [213];
of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, [214];
the Sunday engorgement, [266];
evils of the "theatre", [267];
a good, as defined by an eminent Baptist ecclesiast, [299];
by the Ettrick Shepherd, [309];
by Thackeray, [315];
by Kitchener, [318];
by the Earl of Dudley, [320];
French definition of a perfect, [320];
importance of variety in the bill of fare, [329];
the graceful liar as an adjunct to, [331];
Arthur Hugh Clough's poem on the, [336]
Dinners, poor "company," [126], [261], [321], [329];
ministerial, [195];
similarity of, [195], [325], [328];
false etiquette of, [331]
"Dinners and Diners," [337-339]
Dish, the first recorded, [7]
Dishes, new, [72], [353], [380];
testing of, [135];
Hungarian, [167];
abuse of certain, [261]
Dom Gobelot, anecdote of, [310]
Domitian, referred to, [43]
Dom Pérignon, the inventor of champagne, [283]
Don Quixote, referred to, [50]
"Double Almanach Gourmand (Le)," referred to, [340]
Douw (Gérard), referred to, [197]
Drayton (Michael), quoted, [360]
Dreams, viands provocative of, [197]
Drinking-Cups, of the ancients, [31]
Du Barry (Mme.), a supper of, [62]
Dubufe, referred to, [234]
Duck, wild, the art of carving a, [87];
"When Father carves the" (poem), [87];
canvasback, [249], [369];
canvasback, Rev. Joseph Barber's poem on, [292];
wild, [359], [366], [369]
Dumas (Alexandre), quoted, [5], [49], [56], [206], [213], [214], [224], [225], [383];
referred to, [131], [149], [211-225], [321];
as a cook, [211];
as a gastronomer, [221];
anecdote of, as a chef, [222], [223]
Dumas fils (Alexandre), referred to, [5]
Dumonteil (Fulbert), his saying about truffles, [10]

Eating, evils of irregular, [267]
Egyptians, table appointments of, [10]
Elephant, proper sauce to eat one with, [345]
Ely (Rev. Joseph A.), translation of poem on the pig, [232]
Emerson, his mot on pies, [437]
Emetics, use of, among the ancients, [15]
English, meals of the early, [82];
not appreciative of fine cooking, [210], [274]
"Englishman in Paris (An)," quoted, [222]
Epicure, definition of an, [128], [131]
"Epicurean (The)," referred to, [353]
Epicurus, his maxims, [15]
Evelyn (John), on salads, [411]
Exercise, virtues of, [75], [378]

"Faerie Queene (The)," quoted, [235]
Fairy-rings. Vide "Mushrooms"
Fayot (M.), quoted, [3], [5];
referred to, [321]
"Feasts of Autolycus (The)," quoted, [343]
Fête champêtre. Vide "A shooting jaunt"
Fieldfare, [361]
Fig-pecker (the), [44], [192], [361]
Fish, fondness of the old Latins for, [26];
days in Elizabeth's era, [90], [308];
omelettes and pâtés of, [149];
variety and superiority of American, [251];
its complementary wine, [309];
proper cookery of, [368]
Flamingo (the), as a table bird, [44]
Fletcher (John), quoted, [96]
Flint cracker, origin of the, [263]
Fouquet, referred to, [54], [55], [58]
Francatelli, referred to, [6], [106], [199], [208], [226], [350]
France (Anatole), his mot on the pâté de Chartres, [434]
Frederick the Great, his poem to his cook, [146]
Frog (the), his first leap into the frying-pan, [150]
Fruit, after dinner, [267]
Fruits, the first cultivated, [9];
glass-grown in England, [273];
superiority of those of western New York, [274]
Frying, theory of, [179]
Fuger (Bishop), anecdote of, [310] et seq.

Game, Savarin's references to, [192], [193], [197];
Anthony Hayward on its cookery, [333];
preservation and protection of, [357-358];
definition of the term, [358];
effect of food upon flavour of, [359-360], [362-363], [370];
proper wines to accompany, [372];
species, haunts, pursuit, protection, value, and cookery of, Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
Garum, of the ancients, [46]
Gastaldy (Dr.), anecdote of, [120];
as an epicure, [130]
Gastronomer, the ideal, defined, [442-446]
Gastronomic tests, Savarin's illustration of, [190]
Gastronomy, Archestratus' lost poem on, [13];
Berchoux's poem on, [73-76], [184];
as defined by M. de Borose, [81];
as defined by La Reynière, [128];
French vs. German, [145], [151], [152];
finesse of its ethics, [157-158];
one of the most important arts, [176];
as defined by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," [184];
as defined by Savarin, [184];
cry of its decadence, [194];
its mainspring the pig, [229] et seq.;
as promoted by the religious orders, [285] et seq., [335];
in relation to sauces, [345];
St. Ange's disquisition on, [378-381];
in relation to sport, [354], [356], [445].
Vide also "Cookery," "Dinners," and individual references
Gavarni, his mot on the mushroom, [407]
Gemüthlichkeit, of the Germans, [153], [174]
Gérard (Charles), referred to, [148-150]
Gerarde, quoted, [256], [400], [411]
Gibson (W. Hamilton), [406], [407]
Glacer à la flamme, [203]
Glatigny (Albert), quoted, [63], [341]
Gluttony, as defined by woman, [343]
Goethe, referred to, [147], [430];
poem on game, [169]
Goldsmith (Oliver), quoted, [108]
Gonthier (Johann), referred to, [52]
Good-will, a sportsman's waste of, [381]
Goose (the), merits of, in Germany, [156];
in Strassburg and Alsace, [159-161];
and applesauce, [244]
"Goret (La Mort du)," poem, [232]
Gouffé (Jules), referred to, [199], [225-226], [227], [229], [445]
Gourmand, La Reynière's definition of a, [127-128]
Gourmandise, as defined by Savarin, [186];
vs. beauty, [187];
Gérard (Charles), quoted, [199]
Gout, [143], [270], [346], [444];
prevalence of, among the ancients, [46];
prevalence of in England, [96], [102];
vs. pâté de foie gras, [162]
Grace before meat, [291], [297]
Graces, the three spirituous, [196]
"Grad' aus dem Wirthshaus," German convivial song, [173]
"Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine," [211] et seq.
Greeks, meals of the ancient, [19];
gluttony of the ancient, [23]
Greeley (Horace), anecdote of, [239]
Grog, origin of the word, [97]
Grouse, ruffed, [356], [359], [364], [366], [370], [375], [376], [411];
pinnated, or prairie-chicken, [363], [365]

Hafiz, quoted, [423]
Hagenmark, [432]
Hamerton, referred to, [243]
"Hare, first catch your," origin of the term, [110]
Harvest-home, poem on the celebration of, [101]
Hasenbraten and Hasenpfeffer, [168]
Hayward (Abraham), referred to, [331] et seq.
Hayward (Anthony), on a chaplain's appetite, [288]
Heidelberg, a dinner at the Wolfsbrunnen, [152]
Heliogabalus, gluttony of his reign, [46-48];
inventor of vol-au-vent à la financière, [48]
Henry VIII, his fondness for sweets, [430]
Herodotus, quoted, [10]
Herrick, quoted, [79], [102]
Herring, the "marinirte," [167]
Hertford (Lord), anecdote of, [333]
Hervilly (Ernest d'), referred to, [233]
Hippocras, [57], [93], [94], [96]
Hirztag, a strange custom of that festival, [150]
Hollar, quoted, [358]
Homer, quoted, [20]
Hone (Wm.), poem on mince-pie, [435]
Hood (Thomas), referred to, [316]
Horace, quoted, [11], [26], [39], [40], [113], [398];
referred to, [38], [39];
his fondness for sweets, [428-429]
Host, a delicate, as defined by La Reynière, [139];
vs. guest, Baron Brisse's aphorism on, [228];
his duty to his guests, [264-265], [330-331]
Housewife, troubles of the, [260]
Hugo (Victor), referred to, [341]
Hunt (Leigh), on pig-driving, [239]

Ice-cream, discoverer of, [434]
Indian summer, poem on, [373]
Indigestion, La Reynière on the causes of, [133]
Ingoldsby (Thomas), referred to, [289];
quoted, [280], [291], [306], [438]

Jacque (Charles), referred to, [233], [245]
Janin (Jules), referred to, [5], [211], [213], [348], [445]
Jefferies (Richard), on feasting the chapel-pastor, [287]
Johnson (Dr.), quoted, [111], [248]
Jordaens, referred to, [6]
Jury dégustateur (the), [120] et seq.
Juvenal, referred to, [34], [37], [40];
quoted, [37], [42]
"Kalendare de Potages dyuers," [88], [90]
Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, [309]
King (Wm.), poem on cookery, [279]
Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, [106]
Kuchen, merits of the German, [169], [174]
"Kuchenmeisterey," [171]

La Bruyère, quoted, [229], [380]
Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, [211]
La Fontaine, referred to, [116]
Laguipière, referred to, [6], [201], [202]
Lamb (Charles), referred to, [17], [239], [240-242], [430];
his apology to the pig, [240]
Lampridius, quoted, [47]
Larding (art of), its discoverer, [281]
La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, [66], [72], [112] et seq., [178], [196], [213], [225], [317], [336], [361], [443];
poem of, [117];
quoted, [118], [233], [236], [287], [345], [348], [383], [411];
his home kitchen, [131], [132];
as a gastronomer, [132];
denounced by Savarin, [158];
his tribute to Savarin, [177].
Vide also "l'Almanach des Gourmands"
La Rochefoucauld, quoted, [5]
Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, [172]
Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, [335]
Liar, charm of the accomplished, [331]
Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, [283-285]
"Livre de Cuisine (Le)," [225]
Locust (the), as an article of diet, [7]
Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, [53];
XIV, as a gastronomer, [64] et seq.;
XV, as a gastronomer, [61];
XVIII, as a gastronomer, [76], [78]
Lucullus, as an epicure, [41-43];
referred to, [45], [200], [201]
Luncheon, an ideal woodland, [375] et seq.
Lyne (Bishop de), referred to, [149]

Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, [120]
Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, [220]
Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, [169]
Mæcenas, referred to, [38], [39]
Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, [394]
Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on pâté de foie gras, [161];
his "Watergrasshill Carousal," [309]
Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, [67], [63], [340]
Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, [136-138], [204]
"Maître d'Hôtel Français (Le)," [206]
"Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, [69];
referred to, [93-95]
Markham (Gervaise), referred to, [93-95];
quoted, [409]
Marriage, Balzac's definition of, [351]
Martial, quoted, [24], [31], [33], [44];
referred to, [37], [38], [40]
Marvell (Andrew), referred to, [81], [252]
Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," [311]
Mead, its composition, [97]
Medici (Catherine de), [52], [433]
Melons, [9], [273], [298]
"Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, [271]
"Memorials of Gormandizing," [329]
Metheglin, [96], [98], [439]
Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, [166]
Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, [117-119], [125], [126]
Mind vs. stomach, [5]
Mistletoe-thrush, [361]
"Modern Cook (The)," [208]
Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, [163]
Molière, referred to, [57], [58], [113]
Monselet (Charles), quoted, [175], [194], [206], [264];
referred to, [211], [225], [232], [340]
Montaigne, quoted, [6], [51], [200], [376], [414];
referred to, [147], [283]
Montauron (Seigneur de), [54]
Montausier (Duc de), [54], [55]
Montespan (Mme. de), [58], [63]
Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, [424]
Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, [304]
Morgan (Lady), referred to, [62];
quoted, [200]
Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, [64]
Moynier (M. M.), referred to, [394], [396]
Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, [311]
Mullet, a much-valued fish, [32], [47];
origin of the name, [33]
Murger (Henri), referred to, [341]
Mushrooms, [362];
species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, [397-408]
Musset (Alfred de), quoted, [219]
Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, [359], [380]

Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, [61]
Nasidienus, the feast of, [39], [40]
Nero, his Domus aurea, [43]
Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, [175], [178], [200]
North, (Christopher), [309], [316]
"Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, [220]
Nudels, [167]

Oaks, list of truffle-producing, [391]
Oil and vinegar, [415-416]
"Old Cookery Books," quoted, [275]
Olive-oil, remote use of, [8]
Olla podrida, [50];
en grande, [50]
Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, [299-302]
Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, [295]
Onion, an ancient vegetable, [9];
tribe, virtues of the, [100], [107], [231], [387]
"Original (The)," [319] et seq.
Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, [258]
Ortolans, [76], [361]
Ostade, referred to, [74], [445]
Oudry, referred to, [234]
Ovens, Carême's remarks on, [202]
Oyster-beds, first artificial, [27]
Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, [89];
superiority of American, [252]

Pain perdu, [89]
Painting, Italian school of, [6], [48], [245];
Dutch and Flemish schools of, [6], [246], [445];
French school of, [246]
"Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," [17], [209]
Papabotte (the), [362-363]
Parkinson (John), [81], [411]
Parsley, virtues of, [106], [231]
Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, [138];
Carême's definition of, [202]
Pâte de foie gras, [7], [130], [156], [158], [161], [162], [189], [235], [236], [397];
La Reynière's account of a, [123];
its history, [159];
d'écrevisses, [203];
de Chartres, [434]
"Pâtissier français (Le)," [59]
Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, [107], [342]
Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, [252]
Pepper, superiority of adulterated, [417]
Pepys (Diary of), quoted, [99-101]
Perdrix à l'espagnol, [50]
Perfumes, use of, at feasts, [13], [28]
Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, [77]
"Petite Cuisine (La)," [227]
Petrarch, on wine, [293]
Petronius Arbiter, referred to, [35], [37]
Pheasant (the), [289], [359]
Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, [61]
"Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, [106]
Physicians, as gastronomers, [78], [267]
"Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, [175] et seq., [206], [351], [395].
Vide also "Savarin"
Pie (pumpkin), its origin, [273];
a game, [372]
Pies, [249], [430] et seq.;
wild boar, [89];
strange early English, [95]
Pig (the), his popularity as a signboard, [67];
of Westphalia and Rothenburg, [164];
as a factor of gastronomy, [229] et seq.;
"Dissertation sur le Cochon," [231];
"Gli Elogi del Porco," [231];
M. Pouvoisin's eulogy of, [232];
Rev. Joseph A. Ely's eulogy of, [232];
Monselet's eulogy of, [232];
Southey's eulogy of, [232];
La Reynière's eulogies of, [233], [236];
Ernest d'Hervilly's sonnet to, [233];
Spenser's and Thomson's unjust strictures on, [235], [238];
the Southern razorback, [235], [306];
fondness for truffles, [236], [389];
Leigh Hunt's essay on, [239];
Charles Lamb's apology to the elder animal, [240];
as a retriever of game, [244];
a German eulogy of, [244];
his influence upon the polite arts, [245-246];
"Rôti-Cochon," [261], [414]
"Pig-Driving, On the Graces and Anxieties of," [239]
Planked shad, origin of, [253] et seq.
Pliny, quoted, [31];
referred to, [40], [384], [395]
Plover, upland or grass, [361] et seq.
Plum-porridge, [435]
Plum-pudding, and history of, [334], [434-435]
Pompadour (Marquise de), [63]
Pope, quoted, [83], [103]
Pork, the favourite dish of the ancients, [17];
origin of, [230]
Pork-pie, [89]
Porridge, use of, by the ancients, [24]
Potato, history of the, [255-256], [306]
Potatoes, in England, [272], [330]
Pot-au-feu, importance of the, [224]
Propertius, quoted, [38]
Prout (Father). Vide Rev. Francis Mahony "Psalm, a penitential," [286]
Puff-balls. Vide "Mushrooms"
Punch, origin of the word, [97]
Punctuality. Vide "Dinner, punctuality at"
Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, [9]

Quail, [363], [365], [366], [375], [382]

Recipes
A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), [426]
"A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), [110]
A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), [109]
A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), [109]
Bakewell pudding, [276]
Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, [224]
Brook trout (Savarin), [179];
(Baron Brisse's formulas), [180]
Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, [29]
Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), [405]
Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, [18]
Cock ale, Markham's formula for, [98]
"Dish of Roses" (the). Laurentius' recipe for, [18]
Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), [327]
Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), [380]
Guisado, the Spanish, [51]
How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), [109]
How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), [110]
Kalter Aufschnitt, [169]
Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), [276]
Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), [371]
Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), [193]
Potage aux choux (Dumas), [224]
Quail à la financière (Gouffé), [226]
Roast goose à l'allemande, [157]
Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), [439]
Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), [208];
for green geese and ducklings, [278];
à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), [352]
Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), [242]
"The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), [302]
The hunter's sandwich, [441]
Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, [353]
Récamier (Mme.), referred to, [300]
Reed-birds, [359], [361]
Rembrandt, referred to, [6]
Restaurants, first Parisian, [64], [66];
excessive charges of Parisian, [140], [220], [342];
Bignon, referred to, [219];
American, [250];
advantage of dining at, [339];
Glatigny's sonnet on, [341];
Bignon's, [341-343];
Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, [258];
a dinner at, in 1860, [297];
English, [270], [275], [338].
Vide also "Cafés," and specific references
Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, [171]
Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred to, [339]
Richelieu (Cardinal de), [54], [302], [380];
(Maréchal, Duc de), [303], [348]
Riquette, referred to, [202]
Ristori (Mme.), referred to, [220]
Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, [120]
Robert, referred to, [6], [69], [194], [201], [202]
Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), [52], [115], [117], [118], [187], [221];
a celebrated menu of, [140-142]
Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, [150]
Romans, luxury of the ancient, [25] et seq.;
meals of the ancient, [27]
Ronsard, referred to, [52];
quoted, [79]
Roques (Joseph), [408]
"Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), [102]
Rubens, referred to, [6], [245]
Ruffs and reeves, [335]
Ruysdael, referred to, [6]

Sack-posset, [96]
St. Ange, gastronomic homily of, [378-382]
Ste. Beuve, quoted, [381]
Saint-Simon, quoted, [55]
Salad, [362];
virtues of, as defined by Savarin, [301], [411];
virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, [411];
its mission and place at the dinner, [418]
Salads, remote use of, [10]
Salmis. La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, [286]
Sandpiper (Bartramian). Vide "Plover" and "Papabotte"
Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, [304]
Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, [12]
Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, [334];
a good, as defined by La Reynière, [345];
anchovy, [345];
(a good), its qualification, [349]
Sauce tartare, a novel, [256]
Sauces old English, [84];
best for brook trout, [191];
(Francatelli's), for mutton and game, [209], [368];
(English), [277];
merits of, [249], [345];
Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, [277];
bread, [289], [368];
their relation to gastronomy, [345];
Marquis de Cussy on, [346];
mayonnaise, its history and etymology, [348-349], [421];
à la Schönberg, [352];
a list of, for the home cuisine, [352];
apple, [368];
à la Richelieu, [381]
Saucier (the), [346]
Sauerkraut, [371];
when invented, [150];
(French), not to be commended, [223]
Sausages, the German the master-maker of, [152], [423];
German species and varieties of, [163-166]
Savarin, referred to, [75], [113], [114], [225], [305], [351], [370], [434], [443];
denounced by M. de Courchamps, [158];
as a gastronomer, [181], [206];
his discourtesy to La Reynière, [195];
poem of, [197];
quoted, [300-302], [383], [395], [411].
Vide also "Physiologie du Goût (La)"
Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, [309]
Seasonings, used by the ancients, [28-30];
used by the English, [83], [108];
importance of, [446]
Seneca, quoted, [5], [31], [32], [41], [46];
referred to, [40], [44]
Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, [175], [200]
Shakespeare, quoted, [246], [441]
Shelley, referred to, [234]
Shooting jaunt, a, [375] et seq.
Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," [291]
Signboards (old), and their mottoes, [67]
Smell (the), its influence on the taste, [182]
Smith (Rev. Sydney), his mot on pâté de foie gras, [158];
gastronomic anecdote of, [249];
his mot on the pheasant, [286];
his poem on roast mutton, [290];
on fanatics, [294];
his poem on salad, [412]
Sneyders, referred to, [6], [234], [445]
Snipe, [356], [359], [365], [366], [411]
Société des Mereredis, [118], [129], [130]
Solomon, his table, [11]
Sora, or rail (the), [360]
Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, [37]
Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, [150];
aux choux, [224];
croûte-au-pot, [224], [275];
Julienne, [281];
first mention of, [281]
"Soupers de la Cour (Les)," [62]
Soups, German, [167]
Southey, referred to, [232]
Soyer, referred to, [17], [106], [199], [209-210]
Spartan black broth, [13]
Spätzle, [167]
Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, [126]
Speisekarte, a typical, [154]
Spenser, quoted, [235];
referred to, [238]
Sport. Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
Stimulants, before dinner, [196]
Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, [5];
its offices, [267], [317], [319]
Strawberries vs. gout, [143], [432]
—— —— —— (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, [296-299]
Sweetmeats, [379]
Sweet potato, [256]
Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, [89]

Tables volantes, [62]
Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, [69], [202]
Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, [388]
Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, [181-184];
influence of smell on, [182]
Teniers, referred to, [6], [445]
Tennyson, referred to, [316]
Thackeray, referred to, [159], [195], [387];
as a gastronomer, [315], [329];
quoted, [327], [340]
Thomson, quoted, [238]
Thoreau, on the mushroom, [402], [403]
Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, [43];
as an epicure, [44];
his fondness for cucumbers, [425]
Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, [293]
Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, [283]
Toasts, form of, among the ancients, [27]
Tobacco, introduction of, [28]
Total abstainer, anecdote of a, [265];
abstinence, poem on, [295]
Total abstainers vs. guests, [263-266];
brandied peaches, [433]
Trimalchio, dinner of, [35]
Trout, brook, best sauce for, [181];
of the English chalk-streams, [364];
American vs. the European, [365]
"Truffe (De la)," [394]
"Truffe (La)," [390]
Truffles, [143], [159], [210], [235], [434];
species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature, and phenomena of. Vide chapter "Two Esculents par excellence"
Turbot (the), [33]
Turkey, a truffled, [122], [304], [385];
history of the, [304], [305];
wild, [369-370];
wild vs. the domestic, [369], [370]
Turtle feasts, American, [267]

Ude, referred to, [6], [106], [190], [207]
Uhland, referred to, [163], [166]
Ulric (St.), festival of, [308]
Urbain-Dubois, referred to, [199], [226]

Van Mieris, referred to, [197]
Vatel, referred to, [6], [54], [58], [130];
on carving, [59]
Vegetables, used by the ancients, [9], [10], [28], [29];
poor cookery of, in Great Britain, [272];
importance of good, [330]
Verneuil (G. de), referred to, [130]
Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, [221];
on the restaurant, [339]
Verres, referred to, [43]
Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, [214]
Vienna roll (the), origin of, [171]
Vincent La Chapelle, [61]
Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, [282]
Virgil, referred to, [234]
Vitellius, referred to, [43], [44]
Vol-au-vent à la financière, [203];
inventor of, [48]
Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, [71]
Vuillemot, referred to, [212], [213]

Walker (Thos.), [106], [195], [319] et seq.;
as a gastronomer, [326]
Walton (Isaac), referred to, [81]
Ward (Artemus), his mot on hasty pudding, [134];
his mot on pies, [437]
Weenix, referred to, [234], [445]
Wheat, original home of, [9]
Wheatears, [335], [361]
White (Gilbert), referred to, [243], [272];
quoted, [360]
Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, [328], [387]
Whitefish (the), [45]
Wines, of the ancients, [13], [17], [30], [40];
of the ancient Romans, [30];
in use in England, [96-98];
difficulty of testing, [135];
German, [168];
of old Alsace, [159];
brut champagne, [262], [431];
importance of good, [262], [264], [265];
champagne, [262], [270], [323], [337], [438];
champagne, its virtues, [283], [379];
their relation to the clergy, [282], [291], [293], [295], [309] et seq.;
"Est, Est, Est," history of, [310] et seq.;
importance of a sufficient variety, [322-323];
their relation to game, [356], [372];
to truffles and mushrooms, [394], [408];
Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, [427];
as a medium of hygiene, [444]
Woman, jealousy of, [14];
imitating man's excesses, [46];
Talleyrand's precept regarding, [79];
compared to peaches, [119];
as gastronomers, [125], [343], [351];
La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, [139];
created for the selfish wishes of man, [174];
her fondness for sweetmeats, [174], [429], [430], [433];
Savarin's references to, [192];
as an addition to a shooting-party, [192-193], [378];
a French toast to, [283];
as an adjunct to the dinner, [320];
disadvantages of dining with, [338], [340];
in the eighteenth century, [347];
how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, [350], [429];
a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, [351];
Balzac's reference to, [351];
the wise one defined, [351];
vs. champagne, [379], [429];
compared to mushrooms, [398];
pretty one should mix a salad, [420];
her relation to cookery, [429];
a foil for man's mistakes, [431];
as a garnish to an omelette, [432];
her pet tipples in colonial times, [438], [439]
Woodcock, [355], [359], [365], [366], [376]
Wordsworth, referred to, [240]

Yellowshank (the), [361]
Yuan Mei, quoted, [6]