NO. 1 RUINS
THESE ruins, which are of an important character, lie on the north side of the Elliptical Temple at a distance of 63 yds. from the north-west entrance to that building, with which it is connected by a substantial and well-constructed wall running out due north from the north-west outer face of the main wall of the temple at 43 ft. west from the north-west entrance and at the points [705 ft.] and [710 ft.].
Visitors would know this ruin as the one which lies back on the left-hand side of the path leading from Havilah Camp to the west entrance of the Elliptical Temple, and as the one with the tall column-like forms of the aloes crowned with fleshy leaves which line the summit of its walls, as also do the candelabra-shaped branches of numerous large euphorbia trees which together impart to these walls a pre-Raphaelite appearance peculiarly striking because of its old-world-looking character. But though this ruin may be known to visitors, they rarely examine its enclosures, for the internal portions, owing to extensive excavations during past years, are most uneven, and require some climbing over their irregular surfaces.
Whether the age of this ruin synchronises with that of the Elliptical Temple is for several obvious reasons open to some question, but that it is “ancient” admits of no possible doubt. Its architecture and construction are both inferior to those of the Elliptical Temple, and to many ruins throughout the country which belong to the earliest type of Zimbabwe buildings, though it must be admitted that great care is shown in its construction. Possibly these buildings are of somewhat later date than the Elliptical Temple, while the purpose to which it was devoted was such as not to warrant such elaborate care being lavished upon it as on the temples and the buildings used as residences.
Excavators have literally turned this ruin inside out, and have excavated whole areas to depths of 5 ft. to 7 ft. till the granite formation was reached, and have left some of the foundations both bare and undermined. There is no doubt that the building has thus been completely ransacked, and yet there is nothing to show that it was either a temple or a place where at any time gold-smelting was carried on, there being no traces of gold furnaces, blow-pipes, crucibles, scorifiers, or cement spattered with gold; in fact, pannings of such soil as still remains within it has not so far shown any “traces” or fragments of gold wire or beads and pellets of gold such as are so frequently and abundantly found in other ruins at Zimbabwe. Nor have any indications of copper-smelting been found here as in other ruins. There is no suggestion in its plan that it was a temple. Certainly there is no decorative pattern on its walls, nor are there any monoliths, nor even fragments of what might have been monoliths. Certainly stones said to be phalli have been found there, but a few years ago it was the fashion in Rhodesia to style every stone of peculiar shape a phallus. But supposing some of these objects were undoubted phalli, these might easily have come from the Elliptical Temple a few yards away, especially seeing that the north-west entrance to the temple was enclosed on either hand by walls of No. 1 Ruins, and that phalli and miniature soapstone birds have been discovered by almost all explorers of these ruins among the débris deposited outside all three entrances to the temple. The inner banquette walls on either side of the north-west entrance to these ruins, as well as the massively built outer walls, strongly suggest a fortification, and the conglomeration of tall buttresses overlooking the Elliptical Temple, and also “The Valley of Ruins,” rather confirms this view, especially as the ruins contain no evidences of any industry having been carried on by the ancients within them. Moreover, these are the only ruins of any importance on the north and west sides of the Elliptical Temple which could possibly have served as a fort for the protection of that side of the temple, and its site occupies a strongly strategetic position on the summit of sloping ground. Unless it was a fortification, the whole flank of the area of small ruins in the vicinity of the north entrance would have been undefended, for on the northern and eastern sides of such area of ruins are very substantially built forts occupying elevations of vantage.
Sir John Willoughby states that the design of this building is very irregular, the inner walls terminate abruptly and form only three sides of an enclosure with floors ever varying in their relative levels, the wall foundations are of unequal depths, and the interiors of some of the walls are carelessly filled in with stones, this latter being a feature absent in the earliest types of Zimbabwes, but present in later ruins.
All these departures from the style of construction as employed in the Elliptical Temple, and in very many of the ruins at Zimbabwe, are obvious to anyone on making an inspection, as also the irregularity in the sizes of the stones of any single course, the poorer quality of the granite, the employment of unhewn stones, and the introduction of the angular and plumb style of building so peculiarly absent in the Elliptical Temple and elsewhere at Zimbabwe. There are no drain-holes in any of the walls of these ruins.
Of old and recent Makalanga occupations of these ruins there is ample evidence. Kafir pottery, bones, ashes, and scraps of iron are abundant, and the clay foundations of Makalanga huts and granaries can be seen in every enclosure on floors overlying rudely filled-in areas.
These ruins occupy an area of 62 yds. from east to west, and 54 yds. from north to south. The portion of the ruins in the best condition, as well as the most important parts, are situated on the west side. The north and east portions are the most dilapidated. The building on the north and north-east sides is on the edge of a sharp slope down into a valley which contains the walls of several minor ruins.
No. 1 RUINS
Zimbabwe
The main or outer wall of these ruins runs for 185 ft. from the west entrance on the west side of the building round in a curve outwards towards the west-north-west, north, and north-east. There are three short gaps in the northern portion of the wall. On the whole, the greater portion of the wall is still in a fairly good condition, it being from 12 ft. to 15 ft. high above the outside level of the bed-rock on which its foundations are laid. The wall is practically plumb as compared with the main wall of the Elliptical Temple, besides being angular at the entrances. It is 4 ft. wide at 6 ft. above the outside level, but the north-western side is slightly wider. The wall, though substantially constructed, does not show great evenness of courses, while the sizes of the blocks vary considerably. Near the west entrance it is very poorly built, while the wall on the opposite side of the passage is excellently constructed. Possibly this indifferently built portion was repaired at a much later date. It is on this wall that grew the tall aloes and large euphorbia trees, some of which have recently been removed. The north and north-east portions of the wall, being built upon the edge of the declivity, tend to give the wall a more imposing appearance, while its elevated position commands a splendid view of “The Valley of Ruins.” The large mound on the north side of the north-west entrance is soil débris brought by explorers from the interior of the ruins in 1892.
Three entrances pass through this wall, on the west, north-west, and north sides.
The west entrance is 2 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. wide, the west side wall being 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, and the east side 5 ft. to 7 ft. high. The entrance walls are plumb and angular. There are no buttresses on either side, and no portcullis groves. The entrance leads into Enclosure A, but there are traces of a wall which runs across the inside at a short distance, and might have been that of a sort of vestibule to Enclosure A. Immediately on the outside of this entrance there is a passage between the outer face of the main wall on the east side and the east wall of Enclosures W X Y Z on the west side, and this passage, which is 46 ft. long, 3 ft. 6 in. wide and has the west side wall 5 ft. high, actually forms part of the entrance. At 31 ft. from the north end of the passage there is one side of a rounded entrance into Enclosure Y. There are no traces of steps having been built here.
The north-west entrance was evidently the main entrance. It is the largest and best-constructed of all these entrances. It has a banquette wall on either hand in the interior, also a strongly built vestibule with entrances into Enclosures C and D, and opposite the entrance on the outside are walls of other ruins.
It is 3 ft. 6 in. wide, 7 ft. long, and the walls on either side are only 6 ft. high, but they rise sharply to the level of the general line of summit of the wall. Three feet of the length of the entrance on the east side are formed by the end of the banquette wall, but on the west side the banquette wall is only about 16 in. wide. The entrance is angular and plumb and has portcullis grooves. This is the only instance so far discovered where a completely angular entrance has portcullis grooves, also the only instance where the main or, indeed, any outer entrance has such grooves, except the north entrance to this ruin, which is partly angular and partly rounded. There is no indication that this entrance was once covered in.
Immediately on the inside of this entrance is a small enclosure which served as a vestibule and as an approach to enclosures C and D. This is 9 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and the walls are from 5 ft. to 8 ft. above the paved floor which was destroyed some years ago. At the west end there is a passage 4 ft. 4 in. long and 2 ft. 10 in. wide with angular sides leading into Enclosure C, the walls on either side being 4 ft. to 5 ft. high. At the east end of this vestibule is a passage 9 ft. long and 2 ft. 10 in. wide leading to Enclosure D, the walls on either side being 5 ft. to 7 ft. high.
The north entrance opens into Enclosure D at its north-east corner. It is angular on the outside but rounded on the inside. It is 2 ft. 10 in. wide, 4 ft. 6 in. long, and the walls on either side are now only from 3 ft. to 5 ft. high. There are portcullis grooves in the rounded portions of the side walls. The entrance does not pass through the wall at right angles, but obliquely towards the north, which the opening faces. A wall runs north for 15 ft. from the east outer side of the entrance, but its extremity terminates in block débris. In the angle of the two walls at the outer foot of the entrance are traces of steps leading for a few feet down the declivity along the west side of the projecting wall.
The banquette wall rounds round the inside face of the main wall on either side of the north-east or main entrance, and forms a terrace behind it which would afford a good view over the main wall. Practically the main wall and the banquette wall are one and the same structure at certain points, since the stones of the main wall project into the banquette; but at other points they are independent of each other, and at these points the space between the two structures is filled in with stones to the level of the summit of the banquette.
The eastern length of banquette starts from the east side of the north-west entrance and runs along the inside of the main wall into Enclosure D for a length of 17 ft., the summit being 6 ft. high and 3 ft. 6 in. wide at the entrance and 5 ft. wide at its eastern extremity. This length of banquette cannot be described as of excellent workmanship.
The western length of banquette is 48 ft. long and 4 ft. to 8 ft. high, and is 1 ft. wide at the north-west entrance, but widens out to 11 ft. at the west end, where it connects with the “conglomeration of buttresses,” all rounded, which overlook every part of this ruin. The workmanship in this length of banquette is somewhat inferior.
There are at least ten enclosures, and these, for the purposes of this description, are lettered from A to H or named. On the west side there are four outer enclosures, and these are lettered W to Z.
Enclosure A.—The area of this enclosure is 105 ft. from north to south, its longest points, and 51 ft. from east to west, its widest points. It has four entrances.
The north-west entrance is the west entrance to these ruins, and has already been described.
The south-west entrance is approached by an outer passage on this side, but the actual entrance, owing to the amount of débris, can only be traced, the débris being level with the summits of the walls on either side. These walls are from 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, 3 ft. 6 in. on their present summits, and are fairly well built. The passage walls are 8 ft. apart for a length of 64 ft. from this enclosure towards the south-west, at which point they curve off in different directions, the west side wall running a further 51 ft. towards the west, with traces of continuation. The east side wall curves round towards the south-south-east for 105 ft., including gaps, and at its extremity it becomes lost in débris, but in all probability, judging by recent clearing away of débris and also by excavations, it ran up to the west outer face of the Elliptical Temple. There are no signs of any entrance passing through these side walls. The workmanship of both walls is fairly good.
The north-east entrance is from Enclosure E, which lies on the north-east side. This was a wide entrance with rounded sides, and appears to have been built at a higher level than the floor of Enclosure A, but the entrance and the steps leading up to it are now almost lost in débris.
The east entrance is from Enclosure B. This was rounded, but is now filled in to the top by wall débris.
The floor of this enclosure is formed by bed-rock. The highest parts of the walls are as follows: south side, 4 ft.; east side, 7 ft.; north side, 14 ft.; and west side, 5 ft. to 8 ft.
Enclosure B.—The area of this enclosure, which lies at the south-east side of Enclosure A, is 49 ft. from north to south and 23 ft. from east to west. This enclosure has two entrances, the one on the west side being the east entrance to Enclosure A, while the one on the north side is from a passage which connects this enclosure with Enclosure F. Both entrances are rounded. This enclosure appears to have been cleared out to below the levels of the bottom of the foundations.
The passage connecting Enclosures B and F runs from south-west to north-east. Including the two entrances, it is 23 ft. long, and 3 ft. wide at the south-west end, and 5 ft. wide at the north-east end. The side walls, which are very substantial, are still 8 ft. high. The entrance from this passage into Enclosure F is formed by two large rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves.
Enclosure C.—This enclosure is on the west side of the ruins, and is on the south side of the main and north-west entrance to these ruins, and north of Enclosure A, and is on the inner side of the west portion of the main wall. Its length from north to south is 43 ft., and its width from east to west 17 ft. The western length of banquette wall forms its west side, and the face of this wall is poorly built. The south wall must be considered as badly built. On its south and south-east sides is the “conglomeration of buttresses,” the character of which can better be seen by glancing at the accompanying plan. The buttresses are almost circular, and have their centres filled with stones, thrown in most promiscuously. The east wall is well built; still it is inferior to any of the main walls of the Elliptical Temple. Through this wall is an aperture 2 ft. wide and with side walls 3 ft. high. The floor of this enclosure has been cleared away in places, showing the foundations of the walls.
Enclosure D.—This enclosure is on the inner side of the north portion of the main wall, and east of the north-west entrance to these ruins and of the Entrance Enclosure.
The area of this enclosure is 41 ft. from north to south, and 45 ft. from east to west. It is bounded on the north, west, and south sides by the banquette and main walls for 23 ft., on the west by the Entrance Enclosure for 5 ft., and by Enclosure EE for 18 ft., on the south by a wall dividing it from Enclosure E for 10 ft., but the rest of the southern boundary wall for 12 ft. is now only débris, and in places can barely be traced. On the east side is a wall 15 ft. long, 4 ft. high, 2 ft. 10 in. wide on present summit, which separates this enclosure from Enclosure H; the rest of the eastern boundary is lost in débris.
From the north inner side of the main wall at 20 ft. from the north-west corner of this enclosure there is a wall 4 ft. high projecting southwards into the enclosure for 5 ft., and this has an angular end.
A wall 6 ft. long, forming part of the passage from the north-west entrance, projects into this enclosure. Judging by the arrangement of débris in the space between this wall and the main wall, it is very probable that there were steps here leading up to the summit of the banquette wall.
At the eastern corner of this enclosure is the north entrance to these ruins. This has already been described.
Enclosure EE.—This enclosure is bounded on the north by Enclosure D, on the north-west by Entrance Enclosure, on the west by Enclosure C, and on the south by Enclosure E. Its area is 26 ft. from north to south, and 27 ft. from east to west.
The floor of the south-west corner was once at a higher level than that of the rest of the enclosure, and to this originally raised portion there are remains of a narrow-rounded entrance on the south side, now filled up with débris, from Enclosure E. There are traces of steps up to this raised entrance. The floor of the aperture in the wall on the east side of Enclosure C appears to have been on the level of this raised floor.
Enclosure E.—This lies directly to the south of Enclosure EE. Its area is 49 ft. from north to south, and 48 ft. from east to west. It is bounded on the west for 49 ft. by a wall and the “conglomeration of buttresses” already mentioned, which respectively separates it from Enclosures A and C; on the south for 45 ft. by Enclosures B and the passage which connects Enclosures B and F; on the east for 36 ft. by a wall and a large rounded buttress, which is one of the prominent features of these ruins; the rest of the east boundary cannot be traced, owing to débris piles; lastly, on the north by Enclosures EE and D.
There are still two entrances remaining—one from Enclosure A and the other from Enclosure C. Both are approached from the enclosure by steps, now ruined but traceable, leading up either side of the central buttress of the “conglomeration of buttresses.”
The large buttress on the east side is semi-circular, the centre of its face is towards the west. It is 6 ft. high, 30 ft. round its face, and is fairly well built, it being a wall with its internal portion promiscuously thrown in till its summit was levelled throughout.
On the south-west are two rounded buttresses with their faces towards the east and west respectively.
The enclosure contains piles of excavators’ soil débris of some age.
Enclosure F.—This is situated on the east side of Enclosure E, and lies between that enclosure and Enclosure G. Its area is roughly circular, it being 37 ft. from north to south, and 42 ft. from east to west. Its southern boundary is formed for 37 ft. by the outer south wall of these ruins, which wall is 5 ft. high and 4 ft. wide on its present very reduced summit. There is a gap of 12 ft. on its north-west side, where there are now only traces of a wall.
The enclosure has two entrances now remaining—the entrance from the passage leading from Enclosure B, which has already been described, and an entrance through the outer south wall. This entrance which is rounded is 2 ft. 6 in. wide, the side walls are 3 ft. high, and there are portcullis grooves on either hand, and these have been deliberately built up. This enclosure resembles the other portions of these ruins with regard to large piles of soil débris on its area.
Enclosure G.—This is the most easterly enclosure in these ruins. It is bounded on the south by Enclosure F, on the west by Enclosure H, and on the north and east by the outer east wall of the ruins, which wall is 8 ft. high and 3 ft. 6 in. wide on its present summit. Its area is 35 ft. from east to west, and 47 ft. from north to south. It possessed three entrances, and these were on its west, north, and east sides. The west entrance is barely distinguishable, but has traces of its having been angular. The north entrance has rounded sides, and leads from Enclosure H, a wall 22 ft. long and 5 ft. high forming a division between the two enclosures. The enclosure has been filled in with débris up to the level of this wall and overlooks the east end of Enclosure H, which here is very much lower. The east entrance through the outer wall is rounded on its south side, but the north side has disappeared.
Enclosure H.—This lies on the inner side of the north and north-east portions of the main wall, which here is considerably broken. It is bounded on the west by Enclosure D, on the south by Enclosures E and F, and on the east by Enclosure G. Most probably there was an entrance between the main wall on the east side and Enclosure G, and this led to the network of ruins which are built up against this side of No. 1 Ruins and extend for some 300 yds. towards the east. The area of this enclosure is 53 ft. from east to west, and 31 ft. from north to south. The western end of this enclosure is considerably higher than the eastern end.
Outer enclosures.—Four enclosures lie to the west of the south-west extremity of the main wall, and are separated from it by the passage which leads to the west entrance of these ruins, and connects these enclosures with Enclosure A.
These enclosures adjoin one another in a single line broadways from south to north, there being a common wall for all of them on their west sides. These enclosures are lettered W to Z, commencing at the south end.
Their areas are as follows:—
W 25 ft. N. to S., and 20 ft. E. to W.
X 15 ft. 〃 26 ft. 〃
Y 12 ft. 〃 22 ft. 〃
Z 16 ft. 〃 19 ft. 〃