Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia / An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia

by R. N. Hall

RIDGE RUINS

These ruins are situated on the highest point of the bare granite ridge which extends from the north-west of the Elliptical Temple towards the north-west, and curves towards the north, where it terminates at Havilah Camp.

The southern extremity of these ruins is 140 yds. from the north-west side of the Elliptical Temple and 100 yds. west of No. 1 Ruins. The path from the outspan and camp to the water springs and the Elliptical Temple passes close to its west side, while another path to the Temple passes close to its east side. The Outer Defence Wall, which runs from the west side of the Temple round towards the west, north-west, and north of the Acropolis Hill, runs parallel to the west side of these ruins at a distance of 96 ft. A number of euphorbia trees and aloes line its walls, which are now comparatively low, the highest parts being about 9 ft.

The whale-back granite glacis on which these ruins are built dips sharply from immediately outside the walls all round these ruins, except at the south-east end, which is here only slightly higher than the present ground level outside the Elliptical Temple. Except for vegetable mould at a few points, the whole of the floors of these ruins are formed by the formation rock.

The plan of these ruins shows an oval area, with a long and wide outer passage running along its east side for 246 ft. from the north to the south of the oval enclosure, this passage having its southern extremity well protected by traverses and buttressed entrances.

These ruins, though built of irregularly sized stones, have the faces of the walls which still remain remarkably true and even, so much so that experienced builders after examining the walls state that with such irregularly sized stones it would be most difficult to erect walls with faces as true as those of these ruins. There appears to be no similarity whatever between the second-period architecture and construction and these ruins, except that the filling-in of the walls between their faces is more promiscuous than is the case with walls of first-period architecture and construction. Its entrances and buttresses are all rounded, and the walls have a fair batter-back, there being no plumb wall present.

Sketch Plan
RIDGE RUINS
Zimbabwe.

It would be difficult to state the purpose these ruins were intended to serve, but seeing they occupy the most westerly position of the main ruins’ area, and that they are built on a commanding and strategetic position, it might be inferred, if their claim to any great antiquity were established, that their purpose was that of a fort, defending not only the westerly side of the main ruins’ area, but also part of a main line of communication, of which the Parallel Passage formed a section, between the Elliptical Temple and the west end of the Acropolis Hill. This suggestion is, in fact, apparently supported by the numerous traverses in the passage, traces of which can still be noticed, and by the fact that the oval enclosure overlooks the passage throughout its length. But, as stated before, these ruins cannot at present be classed as ancient, though they are undoubtedly of great age.

Oval Enclosure.—The area of the oval enclosure is 170 ft. from north to south, and 86 ft. from east to west. These are its longest and its widest points. The floor is formed by comparatively level surfaces of granite rock. There is very little soil within the enclosure, and this consists of black mould, decomposed cement, and native clay. The walls still standing average some 4 ft. to 7 ft. in height, and are about 3 ft. 6 in. wide on their present reduced summits, and are battered-back. Plumb and angular walls are absent. The east wall is at one point carried over a large boulder 8 ft. high, and a few courses of blocks on the summit still remain. The north wall is considerably dilapidated, and the débris of this portion lies on the face of the declivity. The external faces of the walls are in a much better condition than the inner faces, for trees and shrubs which could not grow on the outer granite slopes manage to thrive in the very scanty soil of the interior. This enclosure has been used by the natives as a cattle kraal. Though cattle could not climb into the enclosure from outside, they no doubt damaged the inside faces of the walls by attempting to get outside from over the walls. The material for the stone foundations of circular huts of no very great age, which are to be seen in the enclosure, was very probably taken from the inside faces of the walls.

These Makalanga stone foundations, which are identical with those found in old Makalanga kraals, occupy the following positions. At 60 ft. from the south end and 12 ft. from the west side, foundations of stone blocks 19 ft. in diameter. At 110 ft. from south end and almost facing the west entrance, stone foundations of hut 22 ft. in diameter. At 8 ft. from north end foundation blocks disarranged and exact measurement impossible. At 60 ft. from south end and 10 ft. from east side is another foundation, but here again the blocks have become considerably disturbed.

This enclosure has two entrances, and these are on the south and west sides respectively. The south entrance is comparatively intact, but the west entrance is buried in wall débris and can only be traced on one side. Both are rounded. The south entrance walls are 3 ft. 6 in. high, the passage is 2 ft. wide and 7 ft. long, and there are portcullis grooves. The north side of the west entrance is formed by a large boulder 6 ft. high.

There is no trace of ornamentation on the walls, but if it ever existed, the walls having become so reduced, it must have disappeared. No article was found for which the slightest antiquity could be claimed, all the finds being obviously of native make, though somewhat superior to their make of to-day.

Parallel Passage.—Roughly speaking, the passage throughout its length of 246 ft. from north to south runs parallel with the east wall of the oval enclosure and follows it round in its curves, but narrowing towards its southern extremity. There is no entrance from the passage to the oval enclosure except at the south end. At the north end the passage is 47 ft. wide, and the formation rock forms the floor; at 40 ft. further south the passage is 36 ft. wide; at 80 ft. from the north end 22 ft. wide; at 160 ft., 19 ft. wide; at 190 ft., 13 ft. wide, which width is maintained as far as the southern extremity. The heights of the outer wall vary from 5 ft. to 7 ft., the best-preserved lengths being near the southern end, where a pair of traverses with rounded ends stand at a few feet north of the south entrance to the passage. This entrance has rounded sides.

A passage crosses from east to west at the southern extremity, and in it are three entrances with rounded sides. Opposite the south face of the southern extremity of the passage, and at 6 ft. distance is an independent screen wall, 16 ft. long and 5 ft. high, covering the approach to the entrance from the south. At several points in the parallel passage there are distinct traces of traverses.

The new path from Havilah Camp to the Elliptical Temple now runs through the parallel passage of these ruins.