Toadstools, mushrooms, fungi, edible and poisonous; one thousand American fungi / How to select and cook the edible; how to distinguish and avoid the poisonous, with full botanic descriptions. Toadstool poisons and their treatment, instructions to students, recipes for cooking, etc., etc.

by Charles McIlvaine; Robert K. Macadam

By the courtesy of the publishers of The Woman’s Home Companion, the author is permitted to republish his article, “Raising Mushrooms at Home,” which appeared in the October, 1901, number of that excellent monthly—encyclopedic in all home matters.

In October is the time to prepare the manure and beds for house-raising of mushrooms. During the warm months they can not be cultivated without trial of one’s temper and test of one’s taste. Any one having control of a cellar can raise a fine crop of expectations, and may raise a crop of mushrooms by either accident or experience. They are at all times the most contrary of growths, and require the nicest management and much patience. The first thing to do is to select a well-ventilated spot away from direct drafts, where the temperature can be maintained at from fifty to sixty degrees and a moist atmosphere assured. Thoroughly cleanse the cellar and give it an entire covering of whitewash.

Decide upon the size of bed desired. In width the bed should not exceed reaching distance to its center when there is a pathway on each side of it, say six feet. The length of the bed should reach to its useful stopping-place. If the cellar has a portable heater in it, and is warm, the bed should be ten to twelve inches in depth; if the heater is walled in, or the cellar is cool, the bed should be fifteen inches deep.

Calculate how much fresh horse-manure, with the long straw only removed from it and that has not been rained upon, it will take to make a bed of desired dimensions solidly tramped. Get it, put it in a compact heap, and keep it covered from rain. It will heat rapidly and get smoking-hot, because a fermentation sets in which produces heat. If loam can be procured from a pasture or elsewhere it is well to add one-fifth (in bulk) of it to the manure, mixing it thoroughly. This addition retards the fermentation and absorbs the ammonia—a valuable fertilizer—which would otherwise be driven off by the heat. It also takes up any surplus of moisture.

After the compact pile has been thus prepared it should stand two or three days, then be well forked over and again piled. This forking should be repeated from four to six times, at intervals of from two to four days, depending upon the use or not of loam, which affects the rapidity of heating. If loam is used the forking should be at longer intervals unless the heat becomes excessive. The manure will probably then be in good order to go into beds. It is upon proper, careful preparation of this medium that successful mushroom-raising greatly depends. All work and hopes are thrown away if the greatest care is not exercised. Just as it is folly to buy poor seeds upon which to expend costly labor, so it is folly to make beds of poorly prepared manure.

BRICK CUT FOR PLANTING.

The manure must neither contain too much nor too little water. By far the largest percentage of failures is due to too much. It rots the spawn vine (mycelium), and thus destroys the starting place of the fruit, or mushroom. The object in forking the manure so frequently is to sweeten it (as the operation is called) and to prevent overheating from fermentation. If it gets too hot it “burns”—gets too dry. Molding, too, is avoided. Moldy manure will not produce. If, in forking over the pile, dry places are found, they should be sprinkled with water; if, when the fermentation grows less active, the manure is too wet, spread it out to air and dry somewhat. It is in good condition and properly moist when tight squeezing will not press water from it. Far better that it should be too dry than too wet. The manure now ready should be moved to the cellar and made into beds while warm.

Good ventilation is a necessity. Two thermometers are needed—one to mark the temperature of the cellar, the other to place well and solidly down in the bed to record what it is doing in the heat way. It is probable that the mercury will rise slowly. It may go as high as one hundred and twenty-five or one hundred and thirty degrees. Do not disturb the bed, however high it goes. When it falls to between ninety and eighty degrees plant the spawn. If possible, keep the temperature up for several days. It should then fall slowly to sixty degrees, but go down no farther. Never plant on a rising temperature.