Mushroom-spawn comes in brick-shaped blocks. They can be purchased, of good quality, from any reliable seedsman. These blocks are made of a mixture of dungs, through which the mycelium, or vine, from which mushrooms grow, has been run. After this mixture is filled with the vine (badly named spawn) it is pressed into blocks and dried. It should be kept dry until used. Spawning a bed is nothing more than placing cuttings of this exceedingly fine vine under the influence of moisture and heat in a soil fitted for its growth (such as the bed should be), then inducing it to run and fruit. Spawn is originally made to grow by planting the seed of mushrooms in specially prepared dungs and germinating them. The mycelium, or vine, coming from this germination is called “virgin spawn,” and is perpetuated in its growth by running (training) it through manures, pieces of which form the spawn of commerce.

With a sharp hatchet cut the bricks into twelve pieces of equal size; a fine, clean meat-saw may be used, as it reduces breakage. With the hand make holes in the bed ten inches apart each way. These holes must be so deep that when the lumps of spawn are thrust firmly down into them the top of the lumps will be not less than one inch or more than two inches below the surface of the bed. Cover the lumps firmly. Have the surface of the bed as even as possible. Without having to go very far into the cold region of mathematics, the number of bricks of spawn needed is easily figured. Ascertain the number of holes, ten inches apart, that can be made in the bed. Divide this number by twelve, and lo! you have it.

After the bed is spawned it is well to lay a double thickness of newspapers over it, putting a few plastering-laths or light sticks upon them to keep them in place. This is to keep the heat in the bed, as it is desirable that the temperature should not run down too rapidly. It should be two weeks falling to sixty degrees.

Ten days after spawning, if the heat of the bed has gone down to sixty-five or sixty degrees, cover the bed with two inches of loam and pat it solid with spade or board. The bed should not be covered with loam when the temperature is too high. Removing the papers will allow the heat to escape. At the time of covering with loam the spawn should have begun to spread. It will show plainly in the manure close to the lumps of spawn. Its odor is unmistakable, being musky, spicy, much like mushrooms, but stronger. Care should be taken not to disturb the new mycelium, as all breakage of the fine, web-like threads lessens its product. The mycelium should start and grow quickly up to the time of covering with loam. After that a slow increase is best. To effect this the surrounding outside temperature should be from fifty-seven to sixty-two degrees. Ventilation should be upward and good, but not directly upon the bed.

The mycelium will now run and completely fill the bed. Minute white nodules will appear upon the threads of it; these are the beginnings of the mushrooms to come. In from seven to eight weeks after spawning tiny button mushrooms should appear on top of the bed. If the cellar has been cool it may be a few days longer. Mr. Falconer says, “If the temperature of the bed falls below fifty-seven degrees, and the atmospheric temperature below forty-five degrees, the beds should be covered with matting or other material.” Newspapers will do. Upon the appearance of the mushrooms is the time a moist atmosphere is needed. This is obtained by sprinkling the walks and cellar well with warm water. This moisture should be kept up all the while the crop is growing. Unless the fruiting beds show a marked dryness they should not be watered. If watering is required, do it very carefully with a fine rose or syringe. Have the pure water at ninety degrees, and do not more than moisten the loam covering. Never let the water settle in pools or wash the surface.

After the bed is in bearing the addition of strong, liquid manure plentifully applied between the bunches (never on them) will add to their weight and size. It should be done with a long spout without rose. A sprinkling of salt on bare places is beneficial.

BERTH BEDS AGAINST CELLAR WALLS.

GATHERING THE CROP.

The mushrooms will now show in various sizes, from pin-head to large, full-grown specimens, singly and in dense clusters. As fast as they reach the desired size twist them from their sockets. Do not cut or pull them. Keep the gills downward, to prevent dirt getting in them. Take care not to disturb those left in the beds more than is necessary. It is unnecessary to add, cook them, but it is very necessary to tell how, because many excellent cooks commit the outrageous sacrilege of peeling mushrooms. A large amount of the flavor and deliciousness of a mushroom is in the skin—as it is in the apple. One might just as well peel a strawberry. First, always holding the plant gills downward and not over others, cut away the extreme base of the stem and brush off any adhering dirt. If the cap shows much scruff, rub it off with a piece of coarse flannel or cloth. Throw the mushrooms thus cleaned into cold water; they will float. Run the fingers through them several times, then lift them to a fresh pan of water, wash them and place them, gills downward, on a cloth to drain, or put them in a colander. Then cook them to taste. Here, again, sacrilege is frequent. Many foods are simply mediums for added flavors. Not so the mushroom; it has a decided, exquisite flavor of its own. It should not be made in cooking to taste like something else. Put the mushrooms in a stew-pan with a little water; cover them, and stew slowly for twenty minutes, adding butter, salt and pepper to taste. Cream or milk may be added. Another very good way is to butter well a medium-hot pan; cut the mushrooms into equal-sized pieces, put them in it, cover, and fry. Stir them from time to time, and when quite done season with salt and pepper. A good gravy is made for them by using water, milk or cream. Now if you must have a meat of some sort, put the meat on one dish and the mushrooms on another. By doing this you spoil the taste of neither.