Fig. XXIX.
In ascertaining the number of hooks or needles for one repeat of the design, determine accurately if the repeat of the weave employed for binding the ground or the figure divides evenly into this number. For example, take bottom board, [Fig. XXIX.], calling for 400 hooks and 400 needles. Suppose the ground weave to be an 8-leaf satin, and the design to repeat once in the 400 hooks. 400 ÷ 8 = 50 repeats, showing an equal division But suppose a 12-leaf satin is used; it is obvious that 12 is not an even factor of 400, as the division shows a remainder of 4. To dispose of this remainder two methods are open:
First. Omit last 4 ends and use only 396 hooks, a multiple of 12, giving 33 repeats; or,
Second. Add 8 hooks from the reserve rows, elsewhere previously alluded to, thus increasing the number to 408, which is also a multiple of 12, giving 34 repeats.
3d. The Straight-Through Tie-up on the English System.
The English system, which is widely used, has the Jacquard machine so adjusted upon the loom as to have the cylinder lengthways, running in the same direction as the comber-board; or, what is the same thing, running in the direction of the width of the fabric. [See [Fig. XXX].]
Fig. XXX.