The 8 hooks of one cross-row (one hook from each of the 8 griffe-bars) run in the direction from the cloth beam towards the warp beam. Having the same number of rows in depth, in comber-board as there are griffe-bars, one may readily see the advantages of this tie-up. The first row in depth of the comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords 1 to 8. The second row deep of comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords 9 to 16, finishing each division on the last (25th) row, with harness-cords from neck-cords 193 to 200.
Should we have a 600 machine, with 12 rows, the comber-board would also have 12 rows, as the 600 machine contains 12 griffe-bars. The first row of the comber-board receives the harness-cords from Nos. 1 to 12; the second row from Nos. 13 to 24, and so on, finishing on the last (50th) row of comber-board with 589 to 600.
II. Straight-Through Tie-up for Repeated Effects, in one Repeat of the Design.
This method of arranging the tying-up of the Jacquard harness is based upon the necessity for producing patterns having a larger number of warp-threads than the Jacquard used has needles. The principle to be observed is found in producing small effects which repeat themselves in the general design.
The number of cords for the leashes depends upon the frequency with which these repeats occur. Fabrics with stripe effects offer greater opportunities for reducing the number of hooks and needles than other designs. [Fig. XXXI.] illustrates such a design with its tie-up, using a 400 Jacquard machine with 8 rows. The pattern shows four distinct effects, as follows:
- A, requiring rows 1 to 16, inclusive; or harness-cords 1 to 128, inclusive.
- B, requiring rows 17 to 21, inclusive; or harness-cords 129 to 168, inclusive.
- C, requiring rows 22 to 34; or harness-cords 169 to 272, inclusive.
- D, requiring rows 35 to 50; or harness-cords 273 to 400, inclusive.
- In this fabric we find 2 full repeats of the design: first, E to F; second, E´´ to F´´, thus requiring two divisions in the comber-board, as indicated by the vertical line between F and E´´.
Fig. XXXI.
The next subject to consider is the different arrangement of repeated effects in one division. Commence at the left-hand side of the fabric sketch with effect A, which repeats only once in one pattern or one division. The illustration shows two divisions, and also that each hook of rows 1 to 16, inclusive, in the first division can be connected with each hook of rows 1 to 16, inclusive, in the second division, because these rows produce the same effect in the design, which repeats itself in these two places. This connection forms what is technically called a leash, and it will always be found that for every harness-cord a leash contains, there will be found a repeat in the design to correspond.