for it was to put a considerable Sum of Money in my Pocket, if I could obtain a Patent for licensing Balls and Plays in the Elysian Fields, where the Projector wou'd have erected Booths for that purpose. I spoke of this to the Regent, who, according to his Custom, promis'd me the Grant at the first Word; but M. d'Argenson, who was then only Lieutenant of the Police, made him soon alter his Mind; for he represented to his Royal Highness, that such Balls would infallibly be attended with great Disorders. The Objection was specious, and like enough to be true; but after all, such a Licence would not have increas'd the Disorder very much, especially at a Place where 'twas for a long time the Fashion to take the Air in the Night, so that there were often more Coaches in the Course or Ring after Midnight, than in the Day-time. Besides, a way might be found to avoid all the Disorders that could possibly be foreseen. But M. d'Argenson was a Man that neither lov'd Novelties, nor Opportunities of obliging. I was the better pleas'd with this Project, because if it had taken, I saw that I should be in a Condition to stay some time longer at Paris, and to live in a genteel manner. But at last, when I saw it defeated, I thought of nothing but returning to Berlin. While I was putting every thing in order for my Journey, I saw the Count de Rothenbourg at Paris, who was come from Berlin, and to return thither shortly with a Commission on some Affairs of France. This Gentleman, who encourag'd me in my Design to go thither, assur'd me that it would be the easiest matter in the World for me to sell my Lands; that the King had just erected Fiefs; and that he gave every Man leave to dispose of his Estate; nay more, he offer'd to carry me along
with him, and to advance me what Money I wanted. I thought all these to be very advantagious Proposals; but they were Words without Deeds. 'Tis true he lent me Money, that is to say, Government-Bills; but taking an advantage of the Necessity he found me in, oblig'd me to conclude one of the most fatal Bargains I ever made in my Life. I discounted my Bills, that is to say, I lost considerably by them, and with the residue of the Money I set out from Paris to Strasbourg, where M. de Rothenbourg had appointed to meet me: But for his part he went by the way of Burgundy, where he had an Estate; so that I staid for him near a Month, which surely I should not have done if I had been in Cash. When he came he told me, That 'twas impossible for him to carry me with him to Berlin, because he had no room in his Coach. 'Tis true that it was full, but there were some People in it, whom it would have better become to have got up behind. I was by this means under an indispensable Necessity to stay at Strasbourg, till I had a sufficient Remittance from Berlin, to enable me to continue my Journey, without being beholden to any body.
I did not repent my Stay at Strasbourg; for tho' I had been at it before, yet I never was there long enough to make any Observation upon the Remarkables of the Place. Strasbourg[57] is one of the best Cities in Europe. 'Tis the Capital of Alsace, and was conquer'd by Lewis XIV. in 1682, without any Expence but of Menaces and Money. That Monarch fortify'd it considerably, and caus'd a Citadel and Arsenal to be built there, which are Monuments worthy
of a Great King. The Cathedral Church has not its equal for its Bulk and Grandeur. The Doors are of Brass, and very well wrought. There's a Pyramidal Spire 574 Foot high, which is a very noble Piece of Work. The Great Clock is also worth seeing. I was surpriz'd to see the great number of Wheels and Machines that give Motion to all the Constellations, and turn the Needles, which upon Dials of several sorts mark the Hours of the Day and Night, with the Course of the Moon and the other Planets. In the Vestry of this Church, which is very rich, are most sumptuous Altar-Ornaments and Copes. The Episcopal Palace which joins to the Church is indeed a very commodious, but not a magnificent Building, tho' it stands upon a considerable Spot of Ground, whereon a fine Structure might be erected; but there's no Appearance that such a thing will be undertaken yet a while, because the Cardinal de Rohan now Bishop of Strasbourg, who would be the properest Person for it in the whole World, resides but little at Strasbourg, and justly prefers Saverne to it, where he has a most stately Palace.
Strasbourg was formerly an Imperial City, the Magistrates whereof were Lutherans, but now the Catholics are the Masters, and have excluded the Lutherans from all manner of Employment. The King of France keeps a strong Garison in it, and the Commandant here for the King is the Marshal de Bourg. This Nobleman lives more retir'd than is usual for People that are in Power. The Officers go to him very often in the Morning, when the Marshal makes them sit down in a Circle, where I have seen such a Silence observ'd, that if Foreigners were Witnesses of it, they would not twit the French
with having too much Clack. This Levee us'd to hold about half an Hour, after which every one went to dinner where he pleas'd, the Marshal only keeping a Table for Grand Festivals, or when any Person of Distinction arriv'd from the Court of France, which is very rare, except when the Cardinal de Rohan is at Strasbourg. When his Eminency is there, a great deal of Company follows him, and he lives with an Air of Grandeur suitable to his Birth and Dignity. Add to this, that there is not any Nobleman, perhaps, that is of a more courteous and polite Deportment. When this Prelate is not at Strasbourg the Place is very melancholy, especially for such as don't run into the common Debaucheries of Youth; for the latter indeed always find wherewith to amuse themselves: and indeed I have observ'd with my own Eyes that the young Fellows of Strasbourg are very debauch'd, and the Ladies very gentle.
After I had staid a while at Strasbourg, I receiv'd News at last from Berlin, together with Money to proceed in my Journey. I made haste thro' the Cities of Heidelberg[58], Darmstad and Francfort, and stopt at Hanau, where I had the Honor of paying my Compliments to the Count of that Name, who commonly resides there. He married a Princess of Brandenbourg-Anspach, Sister to the Princess of Wales, by whom he has had but one Daughter, married to the Hereditary Prince of Hesse-Darmstad, so that the Family of Hanau is like to be extinct in the Person of this Count. A part of his Territories, viz. those which are Fiefs of the Empire, will revert to the Landgrave of Hesse-Cassel,
according to Conventions which this Prince has made with the King of Poland, who was Heir to a good Part of the County of Hanau as Elector of Saxony; but the latter sold all his Pretensions to the Landgrave.
The City of Hanau[59] stands near the Maine, and is distinguish'd into the Old and New Towns. The new Town owes its Foundation to the Walloon Protestants, who came to settle in this County during the Religious Wars in the Netherlands. The Streets of this Quarter, which is the finest of the two, are broad, and as strait as a Line, and the Architecture of the Houses on both sides is almost the same. A very exact Police is observ'd in it, as well for the Neatness of the Streets, as for the Security of the Inhabitants. This Count's Predecessors establish'd several Manufactures at Hanau; and here is a considerable Trade in Snuff and Woollen Stuffs. The French Refugees have contributed not a little to render this City much more considerable than it was before.
The Castle or Palace of the Count is in the Old Town; and he has another House at the Gates of the Town call'd Philip's-Ruhe[60], the Apartments of which are very fine and nobly furnish'd, and the Gardens are of a grand Taste, and a very advantagious Situation.