From Hanau I went to Fulde, an Abbat's Town of the Empire, in which stands the famous Abbey of Fulde of the Order of St. Benedict. The Fryars are all Gentlemen by sixteen Descents. The Abbat is elected by his Fryars, and has the Title of Primat of the Abbats, Prince of the Empire, and Hereditary Chancellor
of the Empress. The Person who is now vested with that Dignity is of the Family of Butler. He maintains a great Court and several Regiments; so that he lives absolutely like a Temporal Prince. I should have lik'd his Reception of me very well, if he had not made me drink so hard, that if I had staid there longer, my next Journey might probably have been a vast way beyond Berlin. 'Tis my Opinion, Things duly consider'd, that there's no need of any extraordinary Vocation to be a Fryar at Fulde; for those Gentlemen enjoy every thing that a Man would wish for in a genteel Life. The House they dwell in is more like the Palace of a great King than a Convent; and the Abbey-Church, and another lately built without the Town, may be reckon'd among the noblest Buildings in Germany.
From Fulde I went to Eisenach[61], thro' the most detestable Roads that I ever travell'd. Eisenach stands upon the River Nese, at the feet of horrible Mountains. 'Tis the Seat of the Duke of Saxe-Eisenach of the Weimar-Branch, who being absent at that time, I had not the Honor to see him.
I proceeded from Eisenach to Gotha[62], the Residence of the Duke of Saxe-Gotha, who is the most powerful Prince of Saxony, next to the Elector. He is descended from the unfortunate John-Frederic Elector of Saxony, who was put under the Ban of the Empire, and depriv'd of his Electorate by Charles V. The Town is well built, and the Duke's Palace, which is separate from it, is surrounded with Ramparts.
From Gotha I went to Erfurt[63], a City which formerly was dependent on the Family of Saxony, who by a solemn Treaty yielded it to the Elector of Mentz in 1665; and it now belongs to the present Elector of that Name. The Inhabitants have made several Attempts to shake off their Dependency upon that Elector, who on his part has not been wanting in Measures to make them easy; and has made considerable Fortifications to the Castle, in which he maintains a good Garison. The Town is large, and contains fine Churches, of which the Cathedral is remarkable for its Bulk: This Church had formerly a most magnificent Steeple; but some years ago the Spire was entirely consumed by Lightning.
From Erfurt I went to Leipsic[64] one of the most considerable Cities in the Electorate of Saxony, and of special Note for its University and its Fairs. The former, which was founded in 1408, by Frederic the Warrior, has always supported it self with Reputation, notwithstanding the Neighbourhood of the University of Hall. The Situation of Leipsic is charming, and which way soever one enters it, there are beautiful Houses and Gardens kept in excellent Order. The Boses and Appel, Merchants of Leipsic have Gardens at the Gates of the Town, in which they have laid out surprizing Sums of Money: Appel especially has a Garden which a Prince need not be asham'd of. Besides these Gardens here are Walks, which are not the less agreeable for being natural. Here is a remarkable Wood, which is called in the Language of
the Country Rosendahl, i. e. the Vale of Roses. It consists of fourteen Walks, with a great Meadow in the Middle. Each Walk has a noble Point of View, and they are all agreeably diversify'd. The Inside of Leipsic is perfectly answerable to the Out-parts: The Streets are very even, and the Houses large and well built. The only fault I found with them is, that they are too much charg'd with Sculpture, and not duly proportion'd: They are all very lofty, and for the Generality five or six Stories high. The Rents of them are very dear, and at the time of the Fairs there's such a Resort of Merchants hither from all parts, that 'tis very difficult to get a Lodging. When I came thither 'twas Michaelmas Fair; at which time the King of Poland was there. This Prince when he comes to Leipsic does not lodge in the Castle, tho' it has very commodious Apartments, but resides in the House of Appel, the Merchant whom I just now mention'd, who is Proprietor of one of the finest Gardens thereabouts. That King gives the Preference to his House, because 'tis near the Place where the Fair is kept. So much, Madame, for what is chiefly remarkable at Leipsic.
I made no long stay there, because I was impatient to return to Berlin. At my first Arrival there I liv'd very retir'd. I foresaw the little Satisfaction I had to expect at that Court, which made me resolve not to be seen there. Nevertheless I could not conceal my self long; for the Favors with which the Margravine-Dowager had always honor'd me, obliged me to pay my Respects to that Princess, who receiv'd me very kindly, and soon after spoke of me to his Majesty in so favorable a Manner, that he
was desirous to see me; and he sent M. de Grumkau to bid me wait on him at Charlottenbourg, and to send in my Name to him by Ast, one of his Valets de Chambre. I could have been very glad to have been excused from paying Obedience to that Order; but it was too punctual, his Majesty having actually appointed the Hour that I was to appear before him. On the Day fix'd I therefore went to Charlottenbourg, and sent for Ast, who came and conducted me to a Gallery, where he bade me wait a little time; but I had not been there a Quarter of an Hour when the King enter'd it, attended by la Fourcade, Major-General and Commandant of Berlin. His Majesty came up directly to me, and ask'd me, with a good deal of Vivacity, From whence I came, and what was the Cause of my Return to Berlin? I made answer, That I was come last from France, and that my domestic Concerns had brought me back to Berlin. His Majesty, who proceeded to enquire into my Affairs, seem'd well enough pleas'd with the Answers I had the Honor of making to him, and turning towards la Fourcade, said to him, That he should never have known me, if he had not been appriz'd who I was beforehand: And then he said to me, That he should hereafter look on me no other than as a Frenchman. I made answer, That I should think my self very unfortunate if his Majesty should look on me in that Light; and that let me be at ever such a Distance from his Person and his Dominions, I should always be ambitious of calling my self his Subject; and that I should constantly preserve the same Sentiments of Respect and Loyalty to my King and Country, in which I had been educated. The King then ask'd me, Whether I had any Intention to sell