Of course, the same remark applies to the raw materials of animal origin and to the chemical products, all of which should be of the greatest purity obtainable.
The aromatic substances at present employed in perfumery for the extraction of odors are the following.
Allspice.
Latin—Pimenta; French—Piment; German—Piment; Nelkenpfeffer.
This spice consists of the fruit berries, at first green, later black, of the Eugenia Pimenta, indigenous to Central America and the Antilles. It is chiefly used in the manufacture of liqueurs, less in perfumery, though it may be employed as an addition to certain strong odors, particularly that of oil of bay; it serves very nicely for scenting cheap soap.
Anise.
Latin—Pimpinella Anisum; French—Anis; German—Anis.
This well-known plant, which is cultivated in many localities on a large scale, belongs to the Order of Umbelliferæ. The seeds contain about three per cent of a very aromatic essential oil which finds application in the manufacture of soap and in cheap perfumery; it is chiefly used as a flavoring for liqueurs. Good anise must have a light green color, an agreeable sweetish odor, and a sharp taste. In order to increase the weight, anise is occasionally moistened with water; such seeds look swollen, are apt to become slimy, and then furnish a less fragrant oil. Anise is not to be confounded with star-anise, which will be mentioned hereafter.
Balm.
Latin—Melissa officinalis; French—Melisse; German—Melissenkraut.
Melissa officinalis, an herbaceous plant with large, beautiful flowers, which grows wild in our woods, contains a very sweet-smelling oil in small quantities. This can be extracted by distillation from the fresh herb, and furnishes very fine perfumes.
Oil of Melissa of the market is, however, usually an East Indian oil, derived from Andropogon citratus. See under Citronella.