Perfumes and their preparation

by George William Askinson

The fruits of the bay-tree contain much essential oil which is used less in the manufacture of perfumery than for scenting soap. Venice is the most important point of export. See the next article.

Bay (West Indian).
Latin—Myrcia acris; French—(Huile de) Bay; German—Bay (-Oel).

The essential oil obtained from the leaves of this tree, a native of the West Indies, possesses a very aromatic, refreshing odor somewhat resembling that of allspice. It is known in the market as bay oil or oil of bay. During the last decade or so its use has largely extended, and, while formerly almost unknown on the continent of Europe, has become an important article for the perfumer. An alcoholic distillate, prepared by distilling the fresh leaves with the crude spirit from which rum is otherwise obtained, is known as bay-rum, and is used as a pleasant and refreshing wash for the skin. Bay-rum may also be made by dissolving the oil, together with certain other ingredients, in alcohol.

Benzoin.
Latin—Benzoinum; French—Benjoin; German—Benzoëharz.

This gum-resin, which possesses a pleasant vanilla-like odor, comes from a tree belonging to the Order of Styracaceæ, the Styrax Benzoin, and probably another species of Styrax, indigenous to tropical Asia, especially Siam and Sumatra. The collection of benzoin is very similar to that of pine resin; the bark of the tree is cut open, the exuding juice is allowed to harden on the trunk, and is thus brought into commerce. Benzoin differs according to its origin, the age of the tree, etc., and in commerce a number of sorts (Siam, Penang, Palembang, and Sumatra) are distinguished. As a rule, benzoin comes in lumps ranging in size to that of a child’s head. They are of a light gray color and inclose white, almond-shaped pieces. The finest quality, known as Siam benzoin after its source, usually is in small pieces (Siam benzoin in tears) which are translucent, light yellow to brown externally, but milky white on fracture, and have a strong vanilla odor. Less fine but still very good is Siam benzoin in lumps, consisting of large reddish-brown pieces inclosing white particles. All other kinds mentioned above come from the island of Sumatra, in lumps the size of a fist. What was formerly known as Calcutta benzoin formed large friable pieces of a dirty reddish-gray color. Siam as well as Penang benzoin often contains, besides benzoic acid, also cinnamic acid; it is not known why it is not a regular constituent. The worst quality is sold as “benzoin sorts,” consisting of brownish pieces without white spots; they are often mixed with splinters of wood, bast fibres, and fragments of leaves, and can be used only for cheap perfumes.

Good benzoin, besides the qualities named, must have a sweetish and burning sharp taste, it should be very friable, and when heated in a porcelain capsule should emit vapors (benzoic acid) of an acrid taste and a pronounced aromatic odor; it should dissolve completely in strong alcohol. In perfumery, benzoin serves for the preparation of many odors, washes, and the manufacture of benzoic acid. The latter will be further discussed under the head of aromatic substances obtained by means of chemistry.

Bergamot.
Latin—Citrus Bergamia; French—Bergamote; German—Bergamottefrüchte.

The bergamot is the fruit of a tree belonging to the Order of Aurantiaceæ, which is cultivated in Calabria. The tree is unknown in a wild state. The golden-yellow or greenish-yellow fruits, resembling a lemon in shape, have a bitter and at the same time acid pulp; the thin rind contains a very fragrant oil which is used largely in the manufacture of fine perfumery and soaps, and is exported chiefly from Messina and Palermo.

Bitter Almonds.
Latin—Amygdala amara; French—Amandes amères; German—Bittere Mandeln.

The well-known fruits of the bitter almond-tree (Amygdalus communis, var. amara). There are no definite botanical differences between the sweet and the bitter almond-tree. The only distinct difference is the character of the respective fruits. The aromatic substance obtained from bitter almonds is not present fully formed in the fruits, but results from the chemical transformation of the amygdalin they contain; the latter body is absent in sweet almonds.